Truck stalls when slowing down or idling
I have a 1998 Dodge Ram 1500 3.9L V6 2WD. Mostly when
I'm almost to a stop (under 10 MPH), but also sometimes
when I'm going 15-20 MPH, the truck will stall, but I still
have power in the cab. I have replaced the ignition coil, the
Idle Air Control Valve, battery and terminals, and the fuel
pump. I also added the SeaFoam engine treatment. After I
replaced the fuel pump two days ago, the truck ran good
with no problems or stalls (a total of about 4 hours running
time). Then i get in it this morning, and its doing the same
thing. Could it be a short somewhere? Could the fuel line be
clogged? The only filter it has is the screen on the bottom
of the fuel pump. I was told at the auto parts store that
there is no in-line fuel filter. It just seems like it's
intermittently not getting fuel. Or maybe too much? After it
stalls, it takes 1-3 tries of turning it over (5-10 "engine
rotations") before it starts, and a couple times I've smelled
fuel in the exhaust fumes.
I would first, get some fuel injector cleaner and pour it in the gas tank. If that doesn't resolve the issue after a couple of days, it sounds like it the fuel filter. Might be clogged.
I already tried the injector and there is no in line fuel filter. Only the one in the fuel pump. I replaced the pump.
My husband's truck was doing the same thing we put a computer in it o2 sensors radiator battery plugs wires TBP sensor and many other sensors etc.. we put it about $1800 in parts and after a day or two or less back to the same we finally gave up the truck has sat for one year and three and a half months and I finally found on a web page much like this one and endless number of folks having the same problem dumping money into there trucks and getting nothing until I read a post much similar to yours and then the post with the answer and it was as simple and cheap as a $4.50 fusible link that went in the fuse box under the hood the 140amp the generator fusible link and it fixed everything the other options were the wires that run from the fuse box to the alternator or the wires from the alternator to the battery the wires where fine the fuse was the only thing wrong the whole time took us over a year to find the $4.50 fix hope this helps good luck. Sincerely The Wife that Didn't Give Up
Same here, $600 in sensors and part later, come to find out it was my 140amp fusable link too!!! But hey at least I got some new parts I guess lol!
Maybe a bad idle air control valve.
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