Does it idle ok? Does it also stall when stopping at red lights or making slow turns?
It has stalled at a stop a couple of times, it doesn't miss or lose power it just quits. It idles fine.
I forgot to say it's a 94 dodge 2wd 5.2L
Sounds like it could be a dirty or faulty idle air control valve. While sitting in park with engine idling turn steering wheel all the way to the left. You should see your rpms increase while doing this then they should drop back to normal. Can also turn on ac. Your idle should increase then drop back to normal when you turn it off. If this does not happen I would look into cleaning the idle air control valve and throttle plate. Or even replacing the control valve. Is your check engine light on? If so what are the codes? Also if your egr is sticking open it can cause this to happen.
Thanks, I did what you said and it worked, the truck doesn't stall any more.
Glad I could help.
Mine did the same thing. I checked the transmission fluid level and it was three quarts low. Filled it up to the full mark and it has not stalled since.
Thanks, The trans level is full. I changed the idle air control valve and that didn't really help but I did find that the throttle body is all carboned up so I will have to take it off and give it a good cleaning. I will let you know how that works.
I took the throttle body off and it was all carboned up, so I cleaned it all up and now it runs great all the air passages were pluged and where the air control module went it couldn't seat. Jim,
Jst changed my fuel pump truck starts but stalls on idle and excelliration
Jst changed myvfuel pump my 1994 ram starts but stalls on idle and excelliration
Have you change the spark plugs lately?
I got my ram hemi lowered and now when i punch it doesn't kick out like before. Whats wrong?
Randy, check transmission kick down cable, or vacuum if it's an older model.
My '15 Ram 1500 5.7L Hemi stalled immediately after starting this morning. It did start and stay going on the second try but the check engine light was on. I am towing a travel trailer and I hit the tow/haul button and it won't go into towing mode and the the light on the dash says that the AWD is off. I tried the button for it and it the light won't go out and the check engine light is still on. I had to get moving with the trailer but soon found that I couldn't go much faster than 40mph at 3K RPM and the truck would not shift into a higher gear and the check engine light was flashing. When I got to my destination I shut the truck off for 30 minutes and restarted and everything was working okay except the check engine light was still on but not flashing. Anyone have any ideas other than I should have bought a Chevy?
I have a year 2,000 Dodge the tires are all the same sizes nothing wrong with the pick up truck just when i drive the pickup truck faster it wants to go right to left i don't know why anyone know what's wrong with it
I have a State-issued 1999 Dodge Ram 4x4 with 123k miles, mostly off-road. It has had nothing but problems, like the other Dodge pickups in the State fleet. This is a very helpful forum! I am having stalling issues, as well (among, lesser issues) and this gives me something to go to the mechanic with for ideas. That is why I bought a Toyota Tundra 4x4 as my personal truck, my 6th Toyota since 1987. It's a dream. Dodge is JUNK. Mary
2002 dodge ram 1500 keeps idling low and stalling and like sputtering is it my idle sensor
I have a 1997 dodge ram 1500. Does the same thing idles fine but it cuts off when in drive or reverse. I have cleaned the trottle body (i have a new one coming), REPLACED the idle control vavle, all new spark plugs, even a new altonator. I pluged a computer into it since my check engine like is on, it just told me i had a few bad sparks. And still doesnt work..... What else could it be????
Since you a getting a few bad sparks, I would change the spark plug wires
I replaced all 8.
i have a 2010 dodge ram 1500. I had the problem where it stalled on me most of the time when coming to a stop. No codes or lights coming on. 2 days ago a light came on and turned off it was P0868. I took it in because it was a transmission code. Had them replace the 2 filters and fuilds. My guy told me that the person that had replaced it before didn't install the filters properly (Thanks for nothing Dodge dealership). Truck is working great now. Hasn't stalled out. I hope this works for you. good luck.
I have a 2010 Dodge Ram HEMI that has been experiencing dying/stalling at idle in gear and in park. Dealership has worked on it several times. Installed a new throttle body (helped a little), then the fuel pump completely went out. Installed new fuel pump and thought issue was solved, and it was for about 2 months, but has now started dying/stalling again. HELP!!!!
I was having the same problem and nobody could figure it out. I had to replace the Transmission filters. One of them was not installed properly. My truck has not stalled since this was done. I had the work done 3 months ago and working great.
I have a 97 Ram that has been stalling w/o warning when in reverse or (like this morning) a tight turn coasting into a parking spot. Tune up done, new belt, no check engine light, recently changed trans filter/pan gasket and filled fluid. Any Ideas?
To Robert: you need to get your transmission checked out, to see if there is corrosion in the connectors and switches. Find your shift range switch on the transmission, and check for corrosion in the connectors, or water in the connection. Odds are the switch itself is corroded. The following link is to a diagram of where to find the transmission range sensor/switch, that tells your truck what gear you are in, also next to it, is the safety/neutral park switch, which also needs to be checked: https://www.google.com/search?biw=1280&bih=649&tbm=isch&sa=1&q=97+dodge+ram+transmission+range+switch+sensor&oq=97+dodge+ram+transmission+range+switch+sensor&gs_l=img.3...13234.64769.0.649126.96.36.199.0.0.0.249.5509.34j17j2.53.0.voicev2e%2Cevd%3D1%2Cvfo-evf%3D1%2Cvfo-vft%3D0-9%2Ccfro%3D1...0...1.1.64.img..1.33.3608...0j35i39k1j0i24k1j0i67k1j0i30k1j0i8i30k1.MT-gSPjbfUo
My pickup dies when it idles. When I'm pulling up to lights or stop sign's it'll just die. When I drive it will die for a split second but will turn back on. Been doin it for about a year. No vac leaks. Replaced: plugs, wires, cam sensor, distributor, IACV, cleaned the intake. Please help!!
I've experienced in the past, with other trucks, that if the O2 sensor is going that it can cause the truck to stall or jump. I'm not sure if a light will come on if this sensor goes. Too many sensors and computers on all these cars making finding the problem harder.
It took me months to get this one nailed but after various upgrades I did to my 1994 5.9L it was stalling. After much internet research I learned that whenever you disconnect the battery for any reason, might as well do a hard dump of the ecu by touching the disconnected positive cable to ground for 30 sec or so. Then after connecting the battery, get in and turn the key to the on position but do not crank, then push the gas pedal down all the way back and forth five times to reset the throttle position sensor. Then turn the key to off. Then run it as usual.
One addendum to make regarding resetting the ecu, do it with a cold engine. After you do it, start the engine and let it warm up fully before touching the throttle.
One morning my 2002 Dodge 1400 Van started stalling when the engine was idling. It would run fine as long as I kept my foot on the gas. The troubleshooting guide in the Shop Manual said the first thing was to remove the throttle body and decarbonize it. I figured that due to the rapid onset of this malady (the rig was running fine before), that this was unlikely the cause. So I went to #2 on the list and replaced the idle control motor. Cost was $28 for a replacement from AutoZone or O'Reilly's and it fixed it just fine. You just need to remove the interior engine cover, remove the air cleaner assembly, disconnect the electrical connector to the idle control motor located at the rear of the throttle body, remove the two Torx screws holding the motor in place, clean out that portion of the throttle body with throttle body cleaner, and install the new one.
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