new alternator, new battery, won't charge

30

Asked by Guru1HBFG Sep 10, 2019 at 05:16 PM about the 2003 Ford Explorer Sport Trac XLS Crew Cab

Question type: Maintenance & Repair

Just installed a new alternator and battery as they were both bad (Bench
tested both). When the truck is running I am getting a little over 12V to the
alternator. The dash gauge for the battery stays at the bottom line. When the
truck is running and the battery is disconnected the truck dies. Of the two
wires on the plug into the alternator, the wire that goes hot when the key is
on (plug green/red) gives off a 10V signal. Is that right? Seems kind of high
for a wire that tells it weather it is on or not. I checked this when the truck
was on and the wire was unplugged. The wire that sends power to the
alternator all the time (plug yellow/white) shows at the same voltage as the
battery and so does the wire that is bolted to the alternator (Large black/red).
My diagnosis indicates that there is a problem somewhere in the wiring
harness between the alternator and wherever all these damn wires go, but I
want to make sure first because the wiring harness runs through the middle
of the motor and i'm not looking forward to tearing the truck halfway apart if I
don't actually have to.
My truck seems to use a Fusible link if I understand it right (Large red/black
wire runs to the fuse box and bolts to a plate on the outside of the fuse box).
Thoughts and ideas? Nothing I have found online actually answers any of
my questions related to this.

2 Answers

38,895

you shouldn't unhook the battery while the car is running , it wasn't good for older cars and it sure ain't good for newer cars . Use a multi tester to check batts. and alts. . You'll probably need one to figure out the problem you have now , and a scanner tool , or take it to a garage that knows what they're doing .

30

My older truck was able to run without the battery connected with no problem as the vehicle doesn't run off the battery. Research has indicated that they don't charge enough when at idle to run off the Alternator alone so its idle was probably set high. Even with the engine being held at 2500 rpm this truck i'm having problems with still died. I have been using a multi-tester to locate and Identify problems. New information indicates that the 3 Fusible links in the wiring for this system are good, leading me to the wires that run through the front of the engine being heated together. Just trying to make sure I have all my bases covered before I take the front off the motor. I am asking on here because I took it to a garage and they didn't know what the problem was after I replaced the Battery and Alternator. They told me the alternator was bad again and wanted to charge me to have it replaced even though there is nothing wrong with it.

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