I mean the price it has 92k miles on it
There are a lot of unsavory flippers who buy cars at salvage auctions and resell them, you take a huge gamble on these. If it has a salvage title because it was seized or abandoned it would be one thing, but rebuilts are much riskier. I wouldn't touch it unless you knew who did the work and exactly what was damaged repaired. I've seen people get burned on bad salvage-title deals.
Hello sir thank you so much, yes i know the person they are a friend of mine, the car was running when he did the rebuilt he said the car was runing when he first got it
He changed the radiator and the front bumper that is the owner's statement. The hood does not seem it has been fixed
Hood, fenders, bumper covers, grills are not important in a rebuilt car, just make sure the subframe is not damaged or the points where the control arms meet frame. The subframe/engine cradle connects to the unit body, and if that is out of whack it really can't be fixed and car will never track right again. Also check the air bags and restraint module (it goes by several names depending on manufacturer, but it's the module that controls the seatbelts and air bags among other things.) Some restraint modules can be reset by owners and some have to be factory reset. If it is not properly reset, you may not have reliable air bags or seatbelts in event of an accident.
He is asking 3500 for it is it a good price sir?
The car is always stright sometimes he lifts his hands off the steering wheel, how is that for assesing it??
Blue book value is around $4,300, as per KBB and Edmunds. You can check those yourself, Edmunds.com, kelleybluebook.com, or NADAguides.com. I'd say it's only worth considering if you can determine beyond doubt it has working air bags, no subframe damage, and at least the restraint module reset to factory conditions. (if airbags never deployed then your good to go.) If it drives straight and steering wheel is perfectly straight up and down and not cocked to one side, it's a good sign, although an alignment shop might be able to tell you one way or the other if it's good. Hopefully it works out for you.
Thank very much for your time deeply appreciate your responds, have a good one..
Sometimes it doesn't take much for an insurance company to total an older model. When a vehicle is totaled a salvage title is usually issued. What you want is for the vehicle to have a "rebuilt" title. This means that the vehicle has been repaired, inspected, and is now roadworthy. You can register, insure, and drive a vehicle with a rebuilt title but not with a salvage title. In some States getting a title changed from salvage to rebuilt status is a major headache that involves a lot of "red tape". Even if you know the car has been repaired your State may not allow you to register it for driving until it's been inspected. Check with your State's Division of Motor Vehicles and find out what's involved. You don't want to get stuck with something you can't drive! HTH. -Jim
Never buy, and I mean NEVER buy a car that has been rebuilt. There's too much you don't know about it, and can NOT find out no matter how hard you try. He has it priced low because of the title. Move on to the next car.
Also, you can't compare Kelley Blue Book and NADA. They were designed for two completely different purposes. The KBB is for bankers and car wholesalers, while the NADA was designed by car dealers FOR car dealers. The estimates will vary a lot, and I mean A LOT. Always buy with a KBB price, then sell with a NADA price.
Well i will take that advice, i found a 1993 nissan maxima v6 with 93k miles...for 1400$ i think thats much better.
Thank you gusy apprecite it really.
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