CLICKING NOISE WITH AC ON BEHIND GLOVE COMPARTMENT?
check the A/C air filter... how to find it and check it goto http://www.paulstravelpictures.com/GM-Chevrolet-Impala-HVAC-Cabin-Air-Filter-Replacement-Guide/index.html
bad relay,drop glove box down,you will see the clips on both sides on it they rubber,easy to drop,turn ac on feel the relays to find clicking one,replace.is a dealer only part,all relays are.go to salvage yard ,get one.
Thanks Papa - Right on the money.....unfortunatley did not have the luxury to go to junk yard to find part......went to dealer, and had them fixed......had to do right away as needed car immediatedly and could not do without the air etc.....also the clicking would not stop after I turned off ignition......I believe they call it the "activator" or something like that but you were right on......thanks again for info....
THANK YOU.glad its fixed.
I have this problem too. It clicks when i turn the knob to re-circulate the cabin air. Yes, and when the car is off it still clicks for a few minutes. How much did they charge?
They charged me over $300.....even when I told them what the problem was......if you can go to junk yard and get the relay that is best bet.....you most likely can do yourself....just a little patience...and you will be ok....there are two relays back there behind...you can feel the clicking on the one that is bad.....
Man that is a rip off,what did it take them to replace it ,5 minutes.they charged you waiteing time.
I have replaced several of them and I believe this is caused by poor contact materials on the connectors for the actuators. Over time they oxidize and develop a resistance that attenuates the signal back to the control. When the signal gets too low the control loses track of the actuator position and keeps driving the motor, resulting in clicking or broken teeth. It is tough to reach the connector contacts to clean them, but dielectric grease may help delay the oxidation. Otherwise replacing the actuator is a temporary solution.
Add another one to that as I have had same problem but with 2006 chev monte carlo and have been charged for everything incl new compressor and still not fixed
same problem on 2006 chev monte carlo been charged for everything incl new compressor and still not fixed
Replaced both of the actuators on passenger side and drivers side. Drivers side is a beast to get to and replace......this part should have been a recall from gm.....but because it is not safety related they could care less and is labor intensive and frankly they could care less.
Just had the actuators replaced in my 2009 impala, now the a/c compressor will not come on. any clues on this?
anyone know the part # on the relay ... the dealer is telling me they have never heard of the activator relay and cant find it????
It is called an actuator. There are two of them one under the glove box and the other is under dash on drivers side......Good luck...... Dealer is just playing on words.....
Well *@**! I have replaced two last year on 2011 Chev Impala, 2011 model and another one this year. The repairman told me this is an issue with this model and he changes them a lot. I asked if it will happen again and he said, yes, probably so!
Trying to fix mine in my Monte Carlo. Just what exactly do I need to find ? Thanxs
Drop your glove compartment and listen to where coming from......place you hand/fingers util you feel you will feel the vibration......take out unit and buy replacement part at Advance or Auto Zone.......this should do the job.
There are 3 actuators, 2 behind glove box and 1 behind stereo, turn car on and while clicking see if you can feel if it is either one behind glove box. Good site http://www.howtoalmanac.com/Scott/HowTo/10- 09-06ImpalaDashClickingSound.htm If it is the one behind stereo it is much more difficult to replace. My part number is 52409974 while others are 52411997 check you make and model.
Go to Amazon.com put in the part number on the side of the unit that clicks. Filter by your vehicle and it will cost you about $20 if a prime member.
Need help just replaced 2 actuators behind glove box and it fix the ticking noise but there is still no air pressure coming out of the vents!?!?! Wht could be the problem.
My car is a 2008 Chevy Impala but mine was doing the same as described-clicking when recirculate was turned on. I found the problem is the rotating plastic shroud that covers the fan. If you go to this website and watch this video I'm betting your car has the same design: https://www.youtube.com/watch? v=1WVDitKwPdE. You have go under the hood to get to and remove the cabin air filter to see the shroud. The shroud wasn't closing all the way and so the fan was hitting it. I rotated it closed and it stopped clicking. I then did a series of recirculate and back to outside air. I could see the shroud rotated but didn't seem to want to close totally. I know this isn't the answer on how to fix it but at least it is what the problem is. I may try some oil or WD-40 on the pivot pins to see if it pivots correctly. If not, I'll probably have the dealer fix it. The only alternative is to never use the recirculate button.
Here is another picture with shroud open(outside air in)
And here is a picture to show where to find the filter, etc like the video shows... I did a small video of the noise and how pressing the shroud closed made the noise stop but appears I can't put a video out here... ; - (
I've replace the air blend door actuator on the passenger side twice in my 2009 impala because of the clicking noise. The noise is caused by missing teeth in the cheap plastic gears in the actuator.
Having this problem with my 2004 Impala. When I turn on the fan (whether it is recirculating or not) it begins clicking. A few seconds later it smells almost as if something is burning. Sounds like it is coming from behind the glove box. I will try some of these solutions and see if they work.
Will also add that there is no problem with the recirculation of the air or with the air intake, but the smell is awful and the clicking is constant.
My dash is still clicking and we have replaced the actuators in the glove box. Is there anything else I might try. The button to the air-conditioned will cut off and on when the clicking in dash starts. I have tried this on fresh and recirculating.
Susan, there is at least one more actuator on the driver side. I just replaced mine today! Followed this video and it works great! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RqWncll4OUw
Same problem with my 2007 Impala. Is there any harm in not replacing it? Just started making the clicking noise last week. I plan to get rid of the car soon so I don't want to spend money if it is not necessary but I don't want further damage either. When I trade it in, the dealership can make the repair much cheaper than I can.
These actuators are really a curse (air door/blend door actuator). My 2011 Impala LT has made me replace 3 of them. The part number is 604-108 from DORMAN or ACDelco 15-74122 GM Original Equipment HVAC Door Actuator. The failure is caused due to a plastic gear that loses teeth and get stuck at the missing tooth causing the tapping. I fixed one interchanging the working parts of two out of service. Some body was blaming the failure on the contact which I don't agree. In my opinion, it is due to the fact that the plastic gears are to soft to move the heater doors. I bought it from Rock Auto parts online and failed again, the last one from AUTOZONE; but, they all are DORMAN, made in china like the original from GM so I don't think that my saving money would be a problem.
I have a 2013 Chevy impala LT. Mine started clicking when I switched from heat to cold, Now it clicks when i open the door ( car is not even on ) stays on for about 2 minutes then stops. So it's on when I get in the car, starts clicking faster for 2 to 3 minutes and stops. If I use the remote it clicks, if i open a unlocked door it clicks. My Son said it just started clicking while sitting in the drive. Very trippy
Go into the glove box the part is under 40 dollars at advanced auto part # 604-108 there is two of them so turn it on and put your hand on them so you can feel which one is bad.you can see the door trying to open the gears get stripped easily bad design
You have to open your glove box and then squeeze the sides and your glove box will drop down further you'll see all the parts for the air and heat in there
Ok great, thank you. Question, my defroster stopped on the passenger side about the same time. We ended up un clipping we thought was it, then today I flipped the ac to heat and it started, then stopped
no problem! I had the same thing happen to me. Pull the carpet back on the passenger side, you'll see wires leading up to the blower motor un-clip the wires from the connector and look inside you will probably have some oxidation like I did. I paid under 30 for the part from advance. Every time I had a passenger ride in my car they would hit the wires just right and make it shut off . I used to just hit my dash and make it start working again until I figured what the culprit was. If you need me to take pics just let me know!
@ Mark. You are right tht it seems the door wasn't closing fully. But, unfortunately, the problem is inside the cheaply designed plastic gears inside the actuator. I had about 3 teeth missing in a row that once that dead spot rolled back around, the door will get stuck. If you tear apart the old actuator when you pull it out (it's garbage at this point anyway so it won;t matter if you break the tabs separating the half cover pieces), you will find the gear with the broken teeth. Hope this will help as I just changed one in a 2009 Chevy Impala.
2014 Chevrolet Impala LT This is some great information, thank you all! I'm single, with no mechanical ability, and no mechanic friends. I can't afford the cost of dealer repair, so I'm going to try to fix this myself. Let's just hope and pray I don't break everything else in the process! Thanks again!
My 2010 Chevy Impala makes a clicking sound when I open and shut doors. Never while driving. It goes on for maybe 15 seconds and once I'm driving, it shuts off. Therefore, this is happening even with my keys out of the ignition and seems to be on right side of car. Is it still the actuator relay when the car hasn't even been turned on and therefore no AC or outside air is blowing? And, how dangerous if it to jot get fixed right now? I'm a single mom with limited funds.tHank you for any suggestions.
@sackingsgirl06 The actuator will make noise when the electrical system of the car is on (even if no air is flowing). This happens when you unlock the car with the key fob or open the car door. If it is on the right side, then you can access it right behind the glove box and replace it. The part is around $30. I'd highly recommend the do it yourself on this. I, a single college-aged girl, fixed my own on the driver side. The most difficulty was caused just by the location on the driver side, but that won't be a problem for you on the passenger side. Also, I doubt that it is really a danger if you wait a bit, but I'm definitely no mechanic! A semi-fix-it-inclined friend could help you take care of it no problem if you don't want to try yourself.
The gear needed to fix the actuator is now available as a rebuild kit! Save money and avoid junk aftermarket parts! Buy the kit here: http://www.ebay.com/itm/172493501244 Install instructions: https://www.youtube.com/watch? v=HbUCxLFmYn0
Is there an actuator for another type of blend door way up on top center of the dash (by the windshield) that controls the defroster? I have replaced all three other actuators when they began clicking (the two in the glove box and the hard one to get at underneath on the driver's side by the steering column) but this one was much louder and finally stopped clicking when it lost enough teeth. Problem is that the system only blows hot air now. I had tried to locate the part as it clicked but it was so high up inside the dash that it appeared to me that you would need to remove the dash to get at it. Anyone know if there is another actuator buried way up there?
Same question as 3 Bowties
Thank u so much
Replacing this part again after 10 months. Same problem as before. But at least the part is cheaper on Amazon! Definitely not a well- engineered system, but at least it's fixable.
I'm feeling the same pain, Christina. I've replaced each of them once, only to have them fail again. I ended up replacing the pain in the a$$ one by the steering column after I wrote the question a few months ago. The noise stopped for a few months and now the same one just started clicking AGAIN.
Just a bit of advice, If you are replacing the actuator, and it fails after a few months, you probably need to also clean and lube up what that actuator is moving, the vent flaps. They are probably gummed up, and causing the actuator to overwork to open / close them, thus they fail much much sooner. Even the cheap China ones should last years.
Very good point 89M. Anyone of us who has endured the a$$pain of replacing these actuators can surely appreciate getting even a few more months of use before these cheap pieces of cr@p break again. Our problem will of course be how to get the lubricant into the impossibly small spaces the actuators are in, when it is often difficult to even get the nut drivers or ratchets in to exchange the units. But again, anything to prolong the agony is a good thing. Thanks for the tip!
hello, I have a 2006 monte carlo how do I get to the actuator on top of the dash but in back ok my dash. Also where is the air conditioner recharge system on my 2006 monte carlo. I want to charge my ac. Thanks In advance :)
Disconnect it that's what I did with mine after fixing it once, and the fix not even lasting a year, the second time it broke I disconnected it. Now I have to disconnect the driver side one, its making noise and ate my battery, anybody know any videos online on getting to the driver side one.
Laaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa, I got some great tips from ome guy named "Clowny" who has a bunch for Impalas, they can be found at https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RqWncll4OUw. I recommend googling some videos and toss in "Monte Carlo" to see if you may be able to narrow your search down. Seems most on this board have Imps. Good luck!
Hello Everyone, this is my discovery on the heat vent actuator, I firmly believe that it is actually caused from the computer for the HVAC system. When you adjust the heat control lever the actuator moves in small increments, and on mine I had the clicking noise also, but all the teeth on the gears were not worn or broken, but the motor was continually spinning the gears, for approximately 2 minutes, so there is a electrical communication between the actuator and the heater controller, thus by allowing the actuator to keep spinning and burning up the gear teeth, so I firmly believe that the actual issue is in electrical system and only causes the actuator to go bad by allowing it to keep spinning, Just Another Product By GM, but what do I know. I've only been a ASE cert Mechanic since 1978.
Thanks Wildbill47......One would have hoped that gm would have done something to resolve and compensate current and past gm owners of this problem......just think of the hundreds of thousands of dollars owners have spent trying to resolve.
The Auto Makers have great technology but too much of a hurry to use it and then they don't own up to it when it fails, and us the consumer get stuck with the bill. We all just need to remember that eventually everything no matter how well we care for it weather if it is electrical or mechanical it will fail , some sooner and some later... that's the price we all pay for technology...
The vent actuator failure is caused by the actuator not being powered down by the controller. When the vent door gets to the end of it's travel, the controller sees the amp draw rise and stops sending power to the actuator. The gears in the actuator are not strong enough to repeatedly stand up to the motor being stalled out before the controller cuts power.
That is absolutely correct, so hopefully now others will have a better understanding of why there actuator is failing, not because of the actuator being a low quality part, but the controller not working the way it was designed too.
Brilliant. Now if GM would only sit down for 5 minutes and figure out the right coding to retune the controller. I dare say that my 12-year old could probably have a better shot at coding a simple stop sequence into the controller than the nitwits in Motown.
This is all familiar to the issue with my 2010 Impala. since it keeps flapping for a bit after I turn off,park & leave and starts, like; as soon as I pull up the door handle. I've thought " It seems like, as soon as there's any call for electricity to anything in the cabin. Like; pull up handle, ceiling lamp comes on,etc. I.ve gotten it to quiy b4 by holding the cd/aux. buton while thumbing the cd eject button. All of the self fixes are bad for me because my left arm/hand are parylized from stroke. can't get the glove box down, etc. with just my right hand. they fixed it once before under my extended warranty. Grandaughter said a friend just reache under the glove box & twidled something , it quit. From all the replace actuator info, mu guess is he just yanked it or the wire off. then passenger side got no heat in winter. never thought about battery running down, since it quits after I walk away 60 sec.
Wildbill47, I took the actuator on the right hand side out (passenger side - the one for recirculation door) and all the gears are fine. My son actually thought of it being an electrical issue, and I finally found your post verifying this. So my question is, if the part appears to be fine, what do I fix? Is there an electrical component to replace? If not, why would putting in a new actuator fix it? I don't know what to do now.
Good Morning. I do understand your concern, if it looks good it should be working, but here is the situation, the car has a computer for the H-VAC, and when you turn the key on it does a diagnostic check and it is sensing a very slight increase in the voltage draw, and therefore thinks it has not opened all the way, so the computer is still sending power to the actuator, and then the gears on the actuator are binding and causing the clicking sound, even though it appears to be fine it does need to be replaced, on eBay there are many companies selling them, just look and find the best priced one , most have free shipping, I did my passenger side a month ago and paid $20.00 total to the door, did the driver side 3 years ago the same way and still works, welcome to modern technology, it’s good with some minor set backs, hopefully this helps you and your son, sometimes we over think the problem and it easily gets us confused...... take care.. Bill.
Wildbill47, Thanks for your response. Yes, that makes sense now. We were thinking that the root cause may be the component that is "monitoring" the actuator and not cutting off power when it is supposed to, and didn't want to replace the actuator unnecessarily. But now I see how it could just be getting "bad information" from a bad actuator. THANKS again!
Your welcome, I know how you feel, I had spent a solid week looking and seeking the answer ( Why ? ) it just boils down to technology that is very precise, it annoying to have these issues but having this technology is helpful in the long run.... take care and have a spectacular day...
can we just remove the part and not replace it ???
You could, but unfortunately you'd lose some functionality from your heater, a/c and/or your defroster depending on which actuator you pulled. It would stop the annoying clicking but I would suspect you'd lose far more in use from your system. I found that I just can't leave the dual temperature levers on my Imp all the way down on cold otherwise it would click. I have to leave them up about two notches above the coldest setting and that stops the clicking. Annoying, but I've replaced every actuator twice over the past five years and I'm done playing their game.
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