2007 Camry Hybrid Battery Problem or Electrical Issues?
I have a 2007 Toyota Camry Hybrid with approximately 134K miles. The
"Check Hybrid System" comes on along with "Check VSC system". The
VSC system always comes on a second or two after the check hybrid system
turns on. Lately, I have been getting anywhere between 32 and 34 MPG
with my car. I drive approximately 1000 miles a week. The light usually
turns on immediately after I start the car and while I'm backing up. They
came on several times before and I usually go to the 12 volt battery in the
trunk and disconnect it to reset the whole system. Then everything runs
smooth again for about a week. The hybrid battery charges up to about 90%
or level 7. For some reason, I never see it up to level 8 which is the highest.
Do you think the hybrid battery needs replacement or the car has an
electrical problem.? I live in FL and it's really hot nowadays.
Sounds like you need to have the computers on this vehicle scanned with the appropriate SCAN TOOL. I suspect a wheel speed sensor failure. There are some Auto Parts Stores which provide scan services for free. Is there an "AUTO Zone" in your area?
Thank you Tony for your insight. Yes I do have Advanced Auto Parts and AutoZone nearby to have it scanned. Also, I had it read at Toyota Dealership a while back and they told me I needed to replace my whole Hybrid Battery pack. I can never trust these guys which is why I am seeking others opinion on this.
Understand your concern about Toyota .....unfortunately the diagnosis of your Battery Pack requires the detailed data stream a Factory Scan Tool provides. Did Toyota write on the repair order the ID of the codes they found which led them to their diagnosis? They should have. The ID of the codes being set when that warning light comes on is key. Make some phone calls to various INDEPENDANT garages. Some...do invest in a Factory Scan Tool. They usually charge about $100.00 for a Scan diagnosis vs...What was the estimate for a Battery Pack from Toyota?
I actually never thought to look for a code that led Toyota to this conclusion. However, I pulled my receipt and there is no code shown. See attached photo. The battery pack is estimated at $4,920.00 before labor.
IMO...I would want a second opinion including the rational...eg..trouble codes stored in the computer....and the labor charge. Toyota used to claim these batteries would last 100,000 miles or 10 years. Since you are over this mileage....It might be interesting to do some shopping around for a "good used" battery pack. There should be some wrecked hybrids in the junk yards. Keep in mind there is a huge safety issue associated with this battery replacement. High Voltage stored in this battery could kill.
Recognizing this is 8-months old, hoping to help someone else maybe: Check the 12v battery in the trunk. If you don't have the tools yourself, drive to Autozone or Pepboys etc and ask them to test it (many of them will come out to the car). Apparently 2007 era hybrids can throw this code when the "normal" battery (not the big battery pack) goes bad. Try that first!
Gilbert....did you ever resolve this issue with your vehicle?
No, I'm still driving with the "Check Hybrid System" light on and I can see the gas mileage is progressively diminishing after I log my fuel assumption. I had the car read by an independent hybrid battery replacement mechanic and by Goodyear Auto, and they both conclude it's the hybrid battery. It has been over a year since the light came on, but the car is still driveable. I don't plan on taking any more actions unless you have a suggestion that involves not replacing the battery and save me my wallet. Thank You for responding. I truly appreciate it.
I would shop around for an aftermarket battery pack. I see battery packs for $1,000 to $2,000. Installation would be extra and all batteries are not the same so check them out first.
I have shopped around and found refurbish battery pack anywhere between $1,100 and 2,500 depending on level of warranty selected. I'm wondering if I can drive the car until the hybrid pack in my car completely dies. Then I'll replace it. Any reason not to do that other than being stranded at the worst time possible? I guess that's the risk I'm willing to take. Please advise.
I am having the same problem. I also cannot afford to fix it and have been driving it. Sometimes the big battery makes a humming noise. Have you experienced this? I was curious if there is a way to allow the engine to run off fuel only without the hybrid system.
Lately I have been disconnecting the 12 volt battery whenever the warning light comes on. The warning light goes away and the car drives as normal again. I do hear the humming noise but only when the warning light is not on. If you disconnect the 12V battery, does your warning light disappear even for a few days? If you haven't tried that, disconnect it for about 30 seconds and let me know what you get after you plug it back in. Thanks
I had two issues, the first was with the Check Hybrid System being on constantly, which when I would charge the Auxiliary (12 volt deep cycle) it would go away for a while. The whole system doesn't work if that battery is dead. Then, even with a full charge the Check Hybrid System light would come on. We decided to buy an aftermarket hybrid battery (fully installed $1000). It went away for a while, but now the issue happens that Gilberttheman describes to begin with, only accompanied by a complete loss of power. This usually happens while backing up but is now doing it randomly and I've noticed that the gear isn't detected on the dashboard. Again, Toyota said get a new car.
Passive...what year is your hybrid?
Update: For the first, my 07 TCH check hybrid system light came on while driving at a speed more than 60 MPH. However, it still behaves as if the light is not on. Previously when the light is on, the car never shuts off when I'm at a stop light or going less than 20 MPH. This time, it's shutting off running on battery only. The navigation screen displays energy flow while driving unlike previous occasions. Although all tests performed on that car points to the battery, I still wonder if there's an underlying issue other than the hybrid battery. Please shed some light if you have any. Thanks,
Seems you will need to have this vehicle checked out at a Toyota Dealership. Their Factory Scan Tool is needed to probe and display Data from each and every computer on this vehicle. Otherwise...all we can do is keep guessing about the root cause of your issues with this vehicle. So...you might consider a full diagnosis at the Dealer...and...make sure you have documentation of ALL stored and current TROUBLE CODES found in the memory of the many computers....and...an estimate for the cost of repairs. These Hybrid Vehicles are great cars for about 100,000 miles....10 years. Then....Those Cells in in the HV Battery start to go bad. Groups of these Cells are monitored by a Computer. When the Computer "sees" a Cell going bad...it identifies its location within a group of Cells. HV Battery re-builders ID the bad cells and replace them with a good USED cell from a returned (core) Battery Pack. That explains a Good Used replacement HV battery Pack @ $1500 vs a Toyota new BP at about $3-4000. In the final analysis....how much $$$$ did you really save on gas? Perhaps...Folks should be doing the math before a Hybrid purchase. Thanks for the update and let us know the "latest and greatest on this interesting and educational issue.
My car shuts off when on battery power only, usually going less than 20 mph. It always restarts, which is why I thought it was a problem not with the starter battery, but the hybrid battery. I haven't had a chance to unplug and re-plug the starter battery. I just replaced the $600 starter battery 5 months ago.
Does anyone know a place in Florida, preferably in those cities West Palm Beach, Tampa, Miami, Sarasota, Orlando where I can take my hybrid battery and have it worked on. Although the light and diagnosis pointed to the battery, I truly believe there's some other issues perhaps charging cable I dont know. Please advise if you know a place.
Gilbert....did you ever resolve the issue with your vehicle?
No, I have not. Do you a solution for me?
Gilbert....I am afraid I do not have a cheap solution to these Hybrid repairs. After the 10 years....100000 mile mark is reached...you can expect big $$$$$ repairs on these vehicles. Good luck.
I'm having the same problem for the second time - about 15 months ago I got a refurbished battery pack for about $2000, with a one year warranty (they assured me they usually lasted 3-5 years in their experience). Now the check hybrid systems light is back, and the car hesitates slightly when accelerating (especially from a stop). Y'all mentioned to check / unplug and replug the battery in the trunk - where is this and is it something I can safely do myself? I'm relatively handy with tools but know very little about cars... also I remember reading that an oil change gave someone a few months of respite, is this something that might help? I am due for one anyway...
Virginia....what make model year is your vehicle? Most Hybrid model vehicle problems require a Scan Tool for proper diagnosis. Codes are stored in computers when issues surface. These codes can provide the info for accurate diagnosis.
It is a 2007 Toyota Camry Hybrid. I just stopped by Auto Zone to confirm, and it is in fact code P0A80 - Replace Hybrid Battery Pack. I'm assuming this means the unplugging / replugging of the trunk battery isn't going to help in this case... the warnings/problems just started coming on yesterday - any idea how long I might have before it stops working completely? Will it get progressively worse as time goes on? Is there anything I can do to extend the life or solve this problem without spending thousands of dollars? The car only has 100,000 miles on it, but I don't want to keep throwing good money after bad.
The 12V battery is located on the right side of the trunk. The code you receive is indeed the hybrid battery pack failure. I have that same code and have been driving my car with the light on for over a year now and I drive a lot. Since the time my light came on, I have put over 50K miles on the car. I just kept unplugging the 12V battery and wait 5 min before replugging it. I know it does not solve the problem, but this method allows the car to behave somewhat normal vs when the light is on and the engine works nonstop. Thank you for posting and notifying me.
Gilbert.....thanks for the update on your vehicle. please continue to do so. It will be interesting to follow your experience with the Hybrid malfunction on your vehicle. Hopefully...Toyota designed your car to continue to function for many more miles. You might consider changing the Engine Oil more frequently than suggested in your Owners Manual. It's now doing most of the work in getting you from point A-B. Good Luck.
Thank you Last Chance Garage. I recently had my oil changed and I was told that I only had about 2.5 quarts of oil left. Like you said in your post above, change the oil more often than recommended. I'm finding out that the car is burning a lot of oil. My mechanic showed me my tail pipe being very dirty. Last oil change, the car took 5 quarts, and I change the oil every month which is when I hit 5000 miles. I drive over 1000 miles a week for work.
Message received. Your above experience with this vehicle will help others in similar situation to decide whether these Hybrids are really appropriate for long term ownership. Can you imagine what the costs are to maintain a FULLY electric vehicle. I wonder what it would cost to replace that Battery Pack?? Good job and keep us up to date.
Hi folks: I have a 2007 Camry Hybrid that I purchased with 150,000 miles on it (for a good price, I think.) We've dealt with the P0A8 code. It's not like the performance of the car changed dramatically with the "Check Hybrid System" message flashing. After much research on the problem and searching for alternative solutions to plunking down the $3500 at a Toyota dealership, I found a Toyota technician offering his services on Craigslist (Boston area.) With the odo already past 170,000 miles he said that you can't expect miracles, but he would check it out. I had no references on the guy but he certainly seemed to know the system intimately. We removed the hybrid pack while the car was sitting in my driveway. This takes 45 minutes for someone with his experience. And then I let him take the pack home with him to work on in his basement. (Yes, a bit risky!) The key to effectively diagnosing the bad cells (there are 34 in the Camry pack for this model year) is to put a load on each individual cell and test the voltage. You HAVE TO put a load on the cell before testing it with your meter. He diagnosed three bad cells and replaced those (aftermarket cells cost around $40.) Then he drained all the cells completely and re-charged each one. He returned with the rebuilt pack, installed it, and the car is running fine five months on. He charged me $650 for the overall service with no warranty.
sounds like he did what this guy did http://imgur.com/gallery/j8Bcp
I was I could find someone that can do that to my car. I really think that's what's wrong with it. Update since I'm not driving long distance anymore, my MPG is down to 23.5.
Interesting...I wonder if there are any Toyota Techs familiar with this process ...willing to start a little ...side line...repairing these high maintenance vehicles? Any body out there?
my car camry hybrid 2007 i have replace it 4 time but still have hybrid system check 2 months
Has...what is the mileage on this vehicle?
In my opinion, it's obvious the battery may not be the problem after all. Has anyone run into problems with the cables of the hybrid system? Is it possible that the cables or whatever it is that carries the energy from the battery to the driving components of the car may be bad. Is there a test for that? I'm in FL. Would someone please refer me to a mechanic that specializes in hybrid batteries where they take them apart and replace the bad cells only? Thank You
Indeed...there is a known problem with Corrosion at those many cell connections. Much the same issue we faced from the typical 12 VOLT battery in most cars. That's why we used to perform a ...Battery Service....at regular intervals. Preventing this corrosion is an interesting and debatable issue. Seems to me..the cells in a Battery pack in a Hybrid vehicle has an expiration date like any other battery. ID the bad cells and ONLY replacing those bad cells....is in my opinion...a temporary fix. The rest of those cells are going to go bad in time.....as any battery would. One can only guess as to how much longer it will be when the next original cell will go bad. So...again I raise this question. How much money do you really save on gas...when you invest in one of these Hybrids consider the initial cost to buy this vehicle....and the cost to start replacing cells...and or the entire Battery Pack. Has anyone done the math yet?
Attached is a synopsis of the difference in buying a hybrid camry vs. a regular camry. These costs do not include the replacement of the hybrid battery. Unless one cares for the environment, it doesn't make sense economically . However if after one purchases a hybrid and gas prices started to soar then it may make sense. Whereas if one decides to buy a hybrid when gas prices are high, you will not see the benefit because the prices will reflect that. I bought mine used since it was a good deal at the time. Well now I know why it was a good deal.
Interesting analysis. Considering what Toyota's reputation used to be...that is...a very reliable and economical vehicle..good to about 250,00 miles.....and....what Toyota"s rep. is now.....100,000 miles or 10 years and you have a $3-5,000.00 repair for a battery pack from Toyota.....I would be inclined to stick with my '07 Yaris ...and wait for the fenders to fall off. Thanks for your continued input.
Concerning Hybrid Battery repair. Try Google......Florida...Hybrid....Mechanic. interesting results. Good luck....and...keep us posted.
Hi y'all , I'm having problems like this with my Hybrid 2007 Camry ,but I am also having problems with high oil consumption ,but I just found out that there's some type of warranty from Toyota and my car will be getting new oil rings at no cost to me , I'm hoping this will fix my Hybrid "battery" problem ,
Yes indeed you are correct if your engine is a 4 cylinder engine. Call a toyota dealer and provide them with your VIN #. Also very important...Google .....Excessive Oil Consumption toyota....read...read...read....so you will not be raven advantage of at the Dealership. Get back with results.
D872....so...what's new with your vehicle?
I called Toyota and they told me they released 2 phases for this repair and the second phase expired back in June 2017 and I'm no longer qualified. I've gone online to research her statement and I can't find anything in that nature.
I'm not sure what Toyota is referring to via "2 phases of repair".....unless they are describing the Engine Oil Consumption as one...and the Hybrid Battery Pack as the other. Indeed they are separate issues...unrelated to each other. Time to start doing homework. There are Factory service bulletins available on line indicating the terms and conditions for the oil consumption problem. The Owners Manual and other included literature ..should indicate....warranty info... on the Hybrid Battery. I believe the Oil Consumption issue is good up to 150,000 miles and or 10 years. Your Purchase Literature will indicate the date of vehicle purchase. What is the mileage on this vehicle? If all else fails.....join the Class Action Lawsuit concerning these issues. Google....Class Action Lawsuits...Toyota.
Same problem with my 2007 Toyota Camry hybrid
One of the issues that give a fault code of replacing hybrid battery. The bus terminals that connect one cell to another. They get corroded. So you have to clean each bus terminal, the nuts that bolt them together. Then you should apply dielectric material. This involves removing the battery from car, remove all the bus terminals, clean with baking soda and toothbrush, dry off, reassemble with dielectric material coating all the bus bar assembly including the nuts.
Indeed i agree. Corrosion forming at battery terminals has been a long standing issue with any battery. Interesting that Toyota did not design their hybrids to minimize this issue. Dealing with this corrosion issue requires the removal and disassembly of the battery pack. I would be inclined to load test each battery module to ID weak or dead cells......before reassembly. Problem....can anyone predict how long this repair will last?
Z66....did you ever resolve the issues with this vehicle?
Has anyone change there inverter out ?
Rah....are you looking for advice on how to change....replace an inverter on a Prius? Need make model year.
I have a 2007 TCH, 165k miles. almost 11 years. It just died on the street two days ago. The check engine light turned on, then showed the VSC system problem, then showed Check Hybrid system. I can't move the car any more. I towed the car to a garage and they borrowed a Scan reader from dealer. Two codes showed that the big battery has problem. I'm not sure if I want to spend time and money to tow this car to dealer for checking. Eventually it may cost me more money than the car's worth.
Would be helpful to know the numerical ID those codes the Scan Tool recorded. The Hybrid Batteries can go 10 years...then ..battery modules start to go bad. A toyota dealership prefers to replace the entire battery pack. 2to 4K$$$$$$ A so called refurbished B B.....1..2K.$$$$. Suggest you shop around for prices. Keep us up tp date.
Excellent conversation and information, everyone. My key question: can I keep driving my car with that Check hybrid system light on? Thanks. Richard
Yes you can Richard. I’ve been driving mine for two years now
Gilbert...nice to hear you are still getting from point A to B with your HB light on. What is your fuel economy like?
Hey everyone, I have two questions. I change 9 modules on my hybrid battery and got the oil change, right after the oil change code pop up same poa80 and I clear the code, after that I dove the car around 500 miles and code pop up again, I cleared it and waiting, if it pops up again. My 1st question is, is it normal? It may need time to adjust or is there a HVB cooling fan not working properly or there could be a loose screw? I am aware of bussbars cleaning issue, that is all good.
I got the check engine code for my TCH: P0A7A GENERATOR INVERTER PERFORMANCE P0A92 HYBRID GENERATOR PERFORMANCE The garage didn't keep the SCAN code. There is a hand written number 4.281.10-3541-. I'm not sure what's that. I will call a local Hybrid battery shop to see what they can do. Thanks.
I called the local Hybrid Battery specialist in San Jose, CA. They charge Diagnosis $145/hr. Usually it needs one hour. To recondition up to 2 modules, $1700. Need to drive back to check every 6 months.
Thank you, Gilbert the Man. Very helpful to know. By the way, this morning it didn’t come on at all. Any other advise or suggestions? And yes, as much as I like the hubrid concept replacing a battery at over 100k miles is a downer. I may reconsider and not get a hybrid next time.
I meant the light didn't come on at all. My Camry drove perfectly fine on my 30 minute commute to work.
When considering the repurchase of a hybrid ...or...any of the fully electrics...you might consider doing the math first. The costs associated with maintenance when she reaches the 100000+++ mark vs any saving in fuel economy.. I recently read it costs more to plug in a fully electric...like a Tesla....than it does to drive a comparable gaser.
Updates. The problem of my car is on the inverter, not the big battery. A new inverter will cost $6000, plus the labor. It's more than the worth of my car. They will try to find an used or OEM and give me a quote tomorrow.
Wow...i think I am going to rethink my next Hybid...or...all electric vehicle purchace thanks for the update..
Originally, I used to get 34 MPG, then when the hybrid system light came on, I got 29 MPG. Two years later, I now get 25 MPG
Last Update. They found an used one and quoted me $1100 for part + labor. I need to replace the 12V battery for $285. Plus the 2 hour diagnosis $290. Before they put in the inverter, they don't know how good the battery is. A big risk to spend more money. I may just sell the car to the garage. I don't want to take any risk on the road.
Considering the age and mileage on your vehicle, i would agree with your analysis....namely...its time to sell this vehicle.. the high voltage battery pack is good for 100000 miles. Thus you can expect anothe big repair soon after your current estmate of repairs. Good luck with your next vehicle purchase.
I bought an 08 Camry with the "Check Hybrid System" light on. The guy I bought it from is a a straight-shooter (probably literally as he's a detective on the Idaho Falls PD). The light first came on after he replaced the 12v battery. Between us we have driven it @ 5K/mi and change. The only abnormal thing I have noticed in addition to the light is that the battery representation on the Energy Monitor screen only goes to 7 bars (then turns green) but as soon as I drive a bit (mostly on the hwy) it goes to 6 blue bars and occasionally 5. If I drive it around town a bit it will gradually work it's way up to 7 (briefly) again. Since it happened after the 12v was replaced I am wondering if there is any way to sort of reboot the hybrid battery...Maybe take it to zero for a new baseline and then recharge it. Is there a component like a voltage regulator to keep the battery from overcharging that could have read the new battery as the new normal and regulated the hybrid battery to it's voltage. He didn't energize the battery via cables while changing it out and I doubt he topped off the charge before installing the new 'off the shelf' yellow top. He did pull the hybrid and check the voltage on all the cells. All 34 were in the 7.5's, but he didn't know anything about the practice of putting a load on the cells for a couple minutes each while testing so that was 'unloaded' voltage he was reading. The vehicle runs smooth and strong and is getting 32/mi per gallon, but I would sure like to get this issue fixed before it cascades into taking out other components (if that is even possible). Could I benefit from give the 12v a 24 to 48 hr trickle charge? If so, should I have the battery disconnected while doing so? Does anyone know the order of troubleshooting I ought to follow in tracking this down and before buying a new hybrid battery? Thank you
Suggestion...have the computers on this vehicle Scanned for codes. Write down the ID of each code and its numerical value. Do not DC the 12 volt battery yet. That may delete the diagnostic codes stored in said computers. Get back with results.
I'll get it done tomorrow if they can get me in...Thank you
Ok...btw...some auto parts stores will run a scan on you vehicle for free. Autozone is another suggestion.
The tech indicated that my 'Check Hybrid System' problem is the lack of a battery temperature sensor.. I see where ppl have replaced the 12v battery with one of the Yellow Tops (what mine is) and then pulling the sensor from the old battery and taping it and the connector to the top of the new battery. Evidently Spencer turned in the core w/out removing it, so all I have is the connector that plugs into it. It looks like virtually every other mfg sells them as a separate item...not so with Toyota. I'm a bit confused about the last page on the report, he never mentioned a thing about the ECU throwing a code (is it saying that the ECU is 'OK'?) only the temp sensor. I am trickle charging the battery and thinking of sucking up and picking one up from the stealership tomorrow since I can't seem to find the sensor as a stand alone part anywhere online. Thanks so much again for your help.
Sorry, it only posted the last page I'll make separate posts
And (requiring some text to post a pic)
Almost there...sorry for the backwards order...
Just one more to go...
This is it...
The p0517 appears on the first page. We usually fix what is obviously broke...then proceed from that point to check the rest of the vehicle out for any other problem areas. The computers appear to be doing their job. They accurately led the technician to the problem area...and...the Tech observed a missing part. From where i sit and based on the info provided above...replacing the battery with the correct part should fix this issue with this vehicle. So...I agree..with your assestment. Lets get the correct battery in this car and see shat happens..
I'll do it tomorrow...Regarding the new battery that is in the car: When I disconnected the leads to charge it (I'm going to use it in another vehicle) I didn't think to connect jumpers from another battery to the cable while it is disconnected. Am I going to need to do anything to clear codes or reset anything etc when I install the new one? Thank you again for your help. I do so appreciate it. Russ.
Since the battery in question has already whent through a cycle of DC without any problems...I see no reason to take that precation to save codes. We know what they are. Just make sure when installing correct battery...you do not install the battery backwards. Red is Positive...and black is negative do not let your tools touch any metal part of the car when in use. Good luck..
Ooh...forgot to mention. Resets. Radio...memory seats and mirrors would be my guess. When you start her back up...let it idle for about 10 min. With the AC on. Then road test.
OK...My battery had to ship to the local dealer from Portland OR. It will be in tomorrow by noon. Do I plug in the sensor last, first or does it matter?
Suggest you plug the sensor in last with ignition turned off .Good luck.
I installed the new battery and hooray, the 'Check Hybid System' prompt is gone. I have cruise (my main issue). The only problem I have now is that my nav screen is displaying "No DVD Please insert MAP DVD". This would display before as well, but I was able to use the buttons to access my info, audio, energy consumption etc using the buttons. My DVD is an outdated one, but that didn't prevent me from accessing the other functions. Occasionally I would get a message telling me that my DVD was outdated, but to leave that screen all I had to do was press any one of the buttons. I tried powering the vehicle on and off three times to no effect...Thank you again for everything.
Got it...I started the vehicle, ejected the disc, closed the DVD door, turned off the vehicle, started it again, opened the DVD door and re-installed the disc. The "TOYOTA" screen came up and let me use 'all' the buttons. To last_chance_garage: Thank you so much for your time and effort. I am determined to learn as much as possible about this rig and hope to be able to help someone else in the future. You ROCK!
Many thanks for the update.......and the excellent tutorial on how to change a 12 volt battery on a Prius. Good luck.
Awesome everybody, let's keep the discussion going. I plan to replace a few of the cells in my battery pack myself and will get back to you with updates. My vehicle now has nearly 190K miles on it.
Sounds like a plan. Good luck. Another adventure we will be looking foward to.
As I’m getting ready to obtain all necessary tools and materials to successfully replace these modules, I’ve come to realize that balancing these batteries is very essential. Looking through the Toyota manual, there no reference to servicing these hybrid battery packs. I believe that should be done every 50k miles to ensure the battery longevity. What are your thoughts?
RE.....Battery Balancing.......I seem to recall a Toyota Service which included such a function. They had a special battery charger which performed this operation ...with the Battery Pack assembly in the vehicle. I assume you will be removing the battery pack for disassembly....and ID weak or dead cells/modules. Then...replacing only those cells which load test bad. So ultimately your pack will be assembled with both new and old ...good....cells. Bringing all of these cells to the same cell voltage would be nice. There seems to be a difference of opinion concerning how to perform this..... balancing act...... when the pack is out of the vehicle. I understand there have been a few cell explosions during this process. Suggest you do your homework on this and other procedures while working on this project. I have mixed feelings about perusing this method of repair. It's kind of like replacing just the corroded D size battery in my flashlight and leaving the good used one in. When will the next battery go bad?? BTW...speaking of corrosion...you will most likely find a lot of it when you disassemble your pack. Well....I am looking forward to your progress.
Try replacing the hybrid battery filter installed behind the rear seat and in between the speakers then reset the hybrid system. Filter will cost around $5.
I have a 2007 toyota camery with 145k. The VSC system and the check hybird system comes on and the car turns off but when I put the car in park and turn it on the VSC system goes off and just the check hybird stays on but after turning the car on and off for a couple. Off times it goes off. What does this mean
My guess is one of the many computers on this vehicle is noting an issue which it considers unsafe to drive said vehicle. Thus..it shuts off the car. You need to have these computers Scanned for codes. This vehicle should be evaluated by a techician who has experience with Hybrids. Some may recommend disconnecting the 12 volt battery in the trunk of the vehicle and proceed to use the vehicle until the next time she refuses to start. Then once again DC battery etc. This process does not let us what the root cause of this issue might be. Let us know how you decide to resolvd the problem. Good luck.
the hybrid battery filter is riveted in place so I simply cut out a square to see if there would be any difference with unrestricted air flow. There was no difference. I bench tested the fan an it spins freely. Next I pulled the Hybrid battery out, tested modules and discovered two were reading 6.5 and 6.9 while the rest were 7.7 - 7.8. I picked up two used modules that measured 7.7, cleaned all buss bars and terminals and reinstalled the hybrid battery. the VSC SYSTEM warning went away however the CHECK HYBRID BATTERY and red triangle are still lit.
My2007 hybird camery turns off when I turn the sterring wheel. And the The VSC system and the check hybird system comes out. And no other warning signs comr out.. But I put the car in park iy turns on like noting..
Once again...these issues require a Scan of on board Computeres for proper diagnosis. About all you can do is disconnect the negative 12 volt battery terminal for a few minutes...reconnect...and see if there is any change in performance. NOTE...this DC will erase stored codes in most computers..thus...leave us without valuable diagnostic info necessary to procede with an accurate diagnosis.
So after a two week period went by, I was able to dismantle the battery to attempt changing out the bad modules. Unfortunately I was not aware that I had to load each module separately. I simply disconnecdted the buss bars and tested them with a volt meter. They are all within 7.75 and 7.50 range. I thought I was good and I simply needed to clean out the bussbars which I did. After reassembling the battery and placing it back in the car. The same warning sign came back but this time I notice the hybrid cooling fan in the back of the rear seats is working really hard. I took the car for a drive and it lost traction altogether. If I turn it off and restart the car, it restarts but it looses power after a two or three minute period. When it shuts off, the RPM needle simple drops to the blue area and when you try to speed up, there's no power whatsoever. I'm still checking what could be wrong with the car now. Any pointers would be greatly appreciated. Thanks,
I think we will need codes stored in this vehicles computers in order to proceed. Problem...there is a huge difference between the info you will get from a Toyota Scanner vs an after market Scanner. Code numbers and descriptions are helpful. The other DIY option you might consider is the purchase of a refurbished Battery Pack ....and.....install it yourself.......or....have an experience Mechanic do the work. OR....take it apart again....complete disassembly....load test each module. Let us know how you will proceed.
So I reopened the battery pack to load test all of them again. Attached are the results. I do not think anything is wrong with any of my modules with exception that I broke one of the studs out of the second module near the safety plug while applying torque. I read somewhere that it should be torqued 10ft-lb. Bad idea. Just torque by hand is good enough. By the way, after cleaning the bus bars, I suggest applying dielectric grease on them to prevent corrosion and reduce heat buildup in the pack. The first time I reassembled the pack, the cooling fan came on and was sucking air out of the cabin. Eventually, the car died to prevent the pack from overheating. Right now I still have code P0A80 (replace battery pack) and P3012 (battery block 2 becomes weak). I'm guessing P3012 is because I did not replace the battery with the broken stud hoping the bus bar would carry the current. I will take another crack at it before I give up. Let me know if you notice anything in the data voltage I reported.
Curious...what kind of electrical load did you use?
Gilbert.....the Hybrid Man. Whats new?
Louie...did you ever fix the problems with your vehicle?
I'm patiently waiting to receive a set of new zinc plate bus bars. I will update as soon as I'm done.
This morning I got an alert my 12v batter was low from my sync drive I have from T-mobile for my 2007 Camry Hybrid. We could only find the replacement batter at the local Toyota dealership here in Temecula CA. It cost out the door $380 bucks. Before we installed I got the same message VSC system. We put new battery in car so far no issue. But after reading this blog I am concerned about the next thing happening since I have approx. 102k miles. I am thinking it may be a good time to sell instead of having to go through issues with the hybrid battery in which can cost up to 5k installed to replace. Has anyone had it installed? Is it really worth it? How long will the car last for? Will it last over 200k miles? Any input would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.
Well.....Gman...is our resident expert. G...What do you think?
After several attempts to fix the battery myself by switching out the bad cells, the same code kept popping up. Ultimately if one does not have the equipment to balance the batteries after replacement you’re just spinning your wheels. I finally went ahead and bought a refurbished one for nearly $1300 after tax with one year warranty or 10K miles which ever comes first. There are other options but that’s the one I chose since my car already has over 180K miles. You should replace the battery only if you plan to keep the car for a while. I hope my car gives me over 250K miles. More updates to come if anything comes up with my battery. By the way, I had my battery replacement done at Exclusively Hybrid in FL. They are professionals and they know what they’re doing. I had my car in under two hours. They’ll come to you if you’re unable to come to them. Keep the comments coming. It’s good to keep the dialogue going so others can be aware of what’s happening with these hybrids.
Renee....there is your answer. Good luck...and.....let us know what course of action you take. G man...thanks of the input and update. Your arethe Man .
Thank you both for the response. I replaced the starter battery yesterday not hybrid. Car started but started shaking not sure if it was part of a reset with hybrid system and computer. I will reset the computer and see if any alerts come again. Fingers crossed my hybrid battery will cont. to function. My father in law had a Prius drove it till 200k and replaced the hybrid battery from another Prius at a wrecking yard and drove it to 300k. At this point I paid 35k for the car and have had it almost 11 years this July. Its in excellent condition. I have kept up on all maintenance so my fingers are crossed to keep it as long as I can. I don't want another car payment since I have a son to put through college. Thanks again for the input I truly appreciate it.
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