I have the same problem. I have replaced them twice in 30,000 miles. I have a 2006 and I was hoping that someone here might have an answer because it appears as though mine are starting to go again.
I had this problem. 23k miles the dealer resurfaced the rotors.. it helped but I know it will be back, probably sooner because they're even thinner now. The best thing to do would be just flat out replace them with GOOD aftermarket models... not stock GM.. or you'll get the same thing.
YES, we have had to trim the rotors twice and the third time (only 5000 miles) had to replace them. We are hoping this may be a fix. Very distrubing with only 73,000 miles on the car. I have never had this problem with any other cars we have owned
Yes we had the same problem as well. We had them machined twice and then had to replace rotors at only 60000km. Seems to be a very common problem.
We had the same problem with my wifes HHR. We took it to Midas and they replaced the front rotors and adjusted the back brakes. Haven't had a problem since. That was about 50,000 miles ago.
put some cross drilled, slotted, vented rotors on. you wont see warping ever again
I'm in the same boat - I'm on my second turning at 66K and figure I'm going to have to replace them soon. It seems to be a HUGE problem with this car - CHEVY are you listening??
im having that same problem with my girlfriends car and we don't even have 25k on it.
I am beginning a list of people that have had the ongoing problem of bad rotors on their HHR. I am replacing the rotors for a third time and GM said that they have never heard of this problem. The dealer states that he has never heard of this problem. What kind of a cover-up has happened at Government Motors. If you have had this problem and are interested in being involved in this proposal for law suit, please provide me with your VIN number and all contact information. I will be posting this at other HHR blogs as well. You can respond to me here or at firstname.lastname@example.org.
yes i have!!!!! omg.... when i first bought my car which is an '06, i took it right back into the dealership because of the rotars. They rotated them and now i am having the same damn problem
If people stop driving this like a race car than maybe rotor warpage wouldn't occur...just sayin.
fyi to the last guy who posted a comment. hey honey first i am a girl so i am not testosterone driven, and secondly it is lowered so anyone who has a lowered car knows that you can't drive a low baby like a race car because you got to pay attention for the dips and pot holes in the road so you don't fuck anything up, and my rotors are still warped, so kinda like suzuki sidekicks have the genetic flaw of having bad window regulators and the tranny's always seem to go out at about 120,000 miles, these cars have bad rotors.
Here is the problem – according to the service manager at my local Chevy dealership – the HHR was built on the same platform as the Cobalt. The HHR weighs around 1200 pounds MORE than the Cobalt – and shares the same brakes. Chevy denies the problem – but it’s obvious looking at this board that I’m not the only person that has had THREE brake jobs – the third including NEW rotors.
You go girl!!
I am going into my 4th visit for the rotars. I am at 80,000 miles now.
OMG!! That's just not right! I had to break down and invest in newer, heavier rotars - set me back about $125 but it drives like new (just hit 80K miles too). It's ashame Chevy hasn't picked up on this problem - the service manager at the dealership was clueless. Well, sorry about the problems - hope you get your wagon running soon! Take care - D.
My '08 Panel has 68800mls and I am on the 8th set of rotors! This car has always been serviced at the same dealer who insists there is nothing wrong! I have contacted GM online with absolutly no help at all an dthey have assigned a" district specialist" her name is Cindi Pakiv . Cindi doesnt even own a car , has never opened the hood on a car and is niether in the district( shes in Mumbay India) or a specialist in anything but getting rid of the blinking lights on her phone panel. Good luck , the only time GM will care about U.S. consumers is when they need there mis managed butts bailed out again. Do yourself a favor and lemon law the piece of crap before the dealer runs the mileage too high for a lemonlaw claim like they did with me, they are trained to do that.
yes i have and now i cant do anything about it i changed them and now i dont have a problem
I am on my 3rd set of rotors, 2nd were pos slotted EBC brakes and matching pads. Don't buy those! only lasted about 3000 miles, warped worse than the stock ones. Then i change to drilled and slotted Stop Rite Brakes and pads, I have about 15000 on them and need to get them turned. I always figured our problem is that we live in the mountains and my brake just get way too hot while driving down the mountain. Sounds to be a common problem.
Sorry to say I am part of this group now-bought my 2010 HHR Feb. 2013 and had to have rotors cut May 2014 and paid out $160-10 months later the same problem of the shaking steering wheel when I brake so now dealership said it will be about $400 to replace the rotors-I have been driving different vehicles for 40 years and NEVER have had a rotor problem of any kind-so disappointing.
I am on my third set of breaks at 75,000 miles. The first replacement was at 25,000 miles. I, too, believe this car has brake chewing issues.
ABSOLUTELY , I have experienced the same exact rotor issues with my 2011 HHR . I now have over 123,000 miles with 3 rotor replacements in the past 2 1/2 years. I have had the rotors replaced along with tire and brake issues. Every year I am replacing tires and seem to have excessive maintenance issues. I am looking into a Ram Promaster City .
Okay, aII you poor TRUSTING PEOPLE ARE BEING TAKEN, THE DEALERS ARE EITHER MORONS OR MOST LIKELY CROOKED. THE ROTORS TO BEGIN WITH ARE SUB STANDARD SO THEY WILL WITHOUT A DOUBT WARP , IF THEY RESURFACE THEM, THEY'RE CROOKS BECAUSE NOW THE CHEAP ROTORS ARE NOW THINNER AND THEY KNOW YOU WILL BE BACK SOON, MORE MONEY FOR THEM, THEY BILL GM UR GOD FORBID , YOU! FIRST THE ROTORS AND THE WHEELS SHOULD BE HAND TIGHTENED WITH A TORQUE WRENCH TO 100 LBS , TIGHTENED WITH THE WELL KNOWN STAR PATTERN.IF THEY USUALLY TIGHTEN EVERYTHING WITH WITH A IMPACT GUN, TOO TIGHT AND WITH NO CONCERN TO TORQUE OF 100 POUNDS. THAT IMMEDIATELY WARPS THEM SOME BECAUSE THE ROTORS ARE SUB STANDARD. REPLACE WITH SLOTTED AND DRILLED HEAVY DUTY ROTORS WITH CERAMIC SLOTTED PADS AND TIGHTENED LIKE PREVIOUSLY EXPLAINED VIOLA NO MORE PROBLEMS!
My partner bought her HHR new in 2007, now 9 years old. We live up in the hills above San Jose so wear and tear is far greater than vehicles used only on flat land. That said, the brakes have been a nightmare. I've replaced pads perhaps 15 times, maybe more. I've replaced rotors 4 times. Twice with OEM and this weekend for the second time with slotted. They usually last about 6 weeks or so before the car shakes on braking. Obviously that stems from brakes (pads/rotors) as that problem disappears when they're new. The vehicle has 135,000 miles on it. By comparison I also have a 2005 Colorado and just changed pads for the first time 2 months ago, at nearly 80,000 miles. The HHR brakes, if not different on later models, are pure junk. Sorry, Chevy but, this is the best way to lose customers...
well after 3 years of ownership Year 1-cut rotors Year 2-replace rotors and brake pads Year 3-brakes were squeaking, I knew what was next so I did the next best thing...traded it in for a Kia-sad part is I bought at 11K and at trade owed a bit over 6k but all I go from the same place I originally bought it was 4k even though overall condition the same as when I originally bought it-sure doesn't hold value.
I have a 2011 HHR with 78,000 miles. About to put the third set of rotors and pads on. I'm an old drag racer with a basic amount of understanding of brakes. Just an opinion here; I think the pro portioning valve on these cars is off. The valve determines how much brake power goes to the front brakes vs the back brakes. I think there's not enough back brake and so the fronts are overheating which would glaze the pads and warp the rotors. Not sure if the valve is built into the master cylinder or a separate piece. If it's separate I'm going to replace it with an adjustable valve. Speed shops sell them. Any thoughts?
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