why truck won't start after it get hot maybe twenty minutes running
1990 f150 with 300 six. vehicle runs great, starts right away even after sitting up for three or four
months. it' fuel injected. once you drive it for twenty, thirty minutes, it will not start. let it sit for twenty
minutes, it starts. if you try to start before it "cools", the engine turns slow. maybe vapor lock? maybe
starter gets hot. let it sit a while, she starts and runs like a champ. please help I LOVE THIS TRUCK.gonna
get it painted want to get it repaired asap thanks!
It's fuel injected so it's not vapor lock. Vapor lock wouldn't cause a slow starting speed either. Chances are good that It is a bad starter.
Will the vehicle keep running once started? Or does it kill on the road then only restart after it cools?
I have the same issue. Have had the cam positioning sensor replaced, and the distributor, plugs and wires replaced. Still has the problem. Starter turns over fine but seems like all cylinders aren't firing.
I don't have the answer just the same problem, truck will start cool but not when it is hot. I have read many related problems with this same truck with the same problem. It's looks to me that we are all having the same problem. But so fare no one has the answer, can you help. It looks to me that the electrical system will not let the truck start, as if there is a sincere that is bad.
I have the same problem
I have run into the same problem, and I suspect bad wiring. I have noted exposed wire in key places, such as the radio frequency interference dampener on the distributor, as well as at the fuel pump relay.
I have been working on my truck of and on for 2 years. It is a 95 F150 with 5.0. I am having the problem you guys are talking about and trying to fix it. I'm the greatest when it comes to working on vehicles but I am not scared to do what ever because I love the learning experience. Today it started ran great got hot and died. Wouldn't start back up. Let it sit till I got home from work and it fired up like a beast and ran great. Didn't run it looks g enough for it to die again. It would be great if any of you could help me out. Thank you.
Sorry I am not the best when it come to typing. I meant to say I'm not the greatest. Also I didn't run it long enough for it to die. Big thumbs small buttons.
Trub: Since your knowledge is limited and you're willingness to learn is high, may I suggest a site for you. It's called AllData.com. For about twenty bucks a year or fifty bucks for five years you can purchase a very in-depth digital repair guide for your make, model, and engine for your vehicle. There are step by step repair guides and troubleshooting for every aspect of your car. There is a sample vehicle available where you can "thumb" through how the book is set up. Just click on the DIY section of the site.
That is awesome. Thank you very much. I will definitely check that out today. Thanks again.
So... I tried a few things, tested some stuff, found that fuel pressure cuts out right before she dies, have been testing everything in the fuel system. I am told that the module is bad, which would make perfect sense. But with so many things that have been replaced on this truck and not fixed it, it is hard to want to throw more money at the problem.
Same problem I will fix it tomorrow hopefully I think its a bad starter or timing is off or hot
I have an 89 f 250 mine wont restart when hot. I can move the distributer and it will start again. So weird. When its hot it sounds like the battery is dead and wont turn over till I retard the timing.
Ok I have a 1990 ford f150 300 6cylinder iv replaced starter solenoid coil and still not wanting to start don't seem to be getting fire what could be the problem any suggestion from any one here I really like this ole truck and I will do what ever it takes to get her back on the road plz help me
Go get a spark tester at the local auto parts store for about twenty bucks and test each plug wire. It's simple. If the tester flickers when you are trying to start it (check all wires) then your problem is elsewhere. If no flickering begin checking backward to find the cause of no voltage.
Have any of u tryd replacing coolant temp sensor
Is the heat shield missing around your starter to protect it from the exhaust? This may be the problem. Install a heat shield or install a new starter...
i have replaced the starter on mine haveing this same proble,. so make sure if you replace starter you replace solinoid. it wont solve the problem but will keep your truck in good shape with the battery i replaced all plugs and plug wires at first time it started right up. but when she gets hot it dose seem like a wireing problem becuase the battery is draining when its hot. make sure timing isnt off. cause thats the only thing i havent done. and will be doing this week. with so many people haveuing the same issue. and none haveing figured it out. it could be the age of the truck just comeing threw or wireing. if the timing dont improve it then im out of ideas on it. but she shiuts for an hour maybe two she always fires right back.
Guys I had the same problem a year ago. On a 1995 f150 inline 6 5speed. Mine would do what all y'alls is doing and it ended up being the distributer the whole set up cap and all was changed out problem solved
have this problem i will not quit until it is solved if by chance there is pure failure who would be willing to join in on a class action lawsuit mine is a 2006 and yes it has a 6 cyl when it gets hot bam wont run this is pure bs for FORD to leave us it's customers hanging in the wind like this ! so is anyone on board if I fail ?
I have a 89 351 automatic transmission 4x4. I have the same problem.
Same exact problem on my 95 f-150 4.9L. Runs great first start but after 2 miles or if very hot outside, it heaves and misses and eventually shuts down. Starts after sitting for 45 minutes again. I did replace rotor, cap wires plugs and coolant temp sensor as well as the starter. No fix. Had it to 2 different mechanics who stated fuel pressure was good and so was spark...
Turned out my f150 89 had a bad fuel pump.
I also have a 95 inline 6 manual transmission with the same problem. I have changed the plugs, wires, cap and rotor, battery cables, fuel pump, fuel filter and I am in the process of changing the starter. Nothing has seemed to help. In fact, it seems to be getting worse. I would be willing to go into a lawsuit, but don't know where to start. I also don't want to throw any more money at it if it is just going to crap out on me.
I have the same problem with my 95 ford straight 6 it ended up being the ignition module
If the starter turns easily when warm, but doesn't want to start, replace the O2 sensor. It is most likely the problem. I'm having trouble with my 87 F.I. 300 turning over when gets warmed up. Turns over, but laboriously at best. Like a boost of compression , yeah, right. W.t.h.?
Your quite possibly in need of a new 02 sensor. Worked on my Ford Aerostar. Cheap fix too.
Timewalk63@gmail.com I have 96 f150 4.9 with the same problem I'm going to change the distributor and ignition module . I'll post results any other suggestions would be great !!
Hi, saw these post and decided to write as I am having the same problem with my 1996 F150 4.9L Truck. The first time this happened, I was getting gas and it just never started. I looked for spark and there was none. I replaced the coil pack and that solved the problem for a little while. I also changed the wires plugs and cap and rotor just for good measure. I drove it for another 5 days until last night as i was pushing the engine uphill it quit on me. I was on a steep incline. Luckily there was a guy who actually had a tow rope and pulled me up the hill and I coasted to my house from there. I had tried to start it a few times on the hill with no success, then while I was coasting home, still no start, even tried to compression start it, again no start. Sitting there the guy helped me check for spark and it had spark. I thanked him for the tow and asked him if he could turn over the engine while I listened one last time, he turned it over and it started. I have a feeling it is an engine module or oxygen sensor. I would appreciate your help if you get this email. Thanks, Quintin
I HAVE SIMILIAR PROBLEM TOO WITH MY 1990 FORD F150 302 MOTOR. MY IGNITION CONTROL MODULE WENT BAD 2 YEARS AGO. I PUT NEW ONE A WEEK AGO ON AS I THOUGHT IT WAS IT AGAIN. I WOULD TRAVEL A COUPLE OF MILES ON SAME ROAD THAT IT JUST SHUT OFF, BUT PUT IT BACK IN PARK AND WOULD CRANK BACK UP. AFTER PUTTING NEW IGNITION CONTROL THAT WASN'T AFTER MARKET, BUT A TRUE MOTORCRAFT ONE, IT WENT DEAD AGAIN, BUT WOULD CRANK BACK QUICKLY. I DON'T KNOW IF I GOT A BAD MODULE OR SOMETHING ELSE. IT TURNS OVER FAST, BUT TAKES A BIT TO FIRE OFF EVEN WHEN FIRST COLD CRANKING IT. I NOTICED OTHERS SAID A OXYGEN SENSOR IS SIMILIAR IS DIAGNOSES. ANY THOUGHTS ON THAT BECAUSE WHEN MODULE WENT BAD IT WOULD TAKE A WHILE TO CRANK AGAIN, BUT NOW IT CRANKS UP QUICK AFTER STOPPING IN HIGHWAY. HELP ME FIGURE THIS GREMLIN OUT..
Most likely your manifold is is leaking or gaskets are going bad in turn heating up your starter. If your starter will heat up to a point where you can only wait for it to cool down before it will start again. Try possibly fabricating a heat shield. Good luck
Yes a heat shield on the starter. I have a 64 Mercury Comet with a 302 out of a 68 mustang. Having this problem. My prior car was a 68 El Camino that did it as well. Starter gets hot from exhaust and won't turn on anymore. Sometimes 20 minutes sometimes two hours waiting for it to cool. All you new car guys with your 86-93's. Always worried about sensors and electronic parts. I have spark, fuel, water, oil. That's all I need to run. If the starter isn't hot. I'm working on a shield today for the starter. Also timing was an issue. I too would advance or retard my timing can't remember which. But it seemed to help for a little while
I have the same issue. Mine is an 89 F250 351 Windsor 5 speed manual 4X4 I bought it 12 years ago. It had many problems but starting hot or cold wasn't one of them, ran like a champ through all for seasons. About 4 years ago I stalled it in traffic and it wouldn't start, had the dead battery effect. Someone offered to jump start and it fired up. Then it shortly after, it began to not start after driving till warm. I carried a spare battery around with me and that worked for awhile but soon it wouldn't even fire with a jump. I have resorted to only driving if I don't have to shut it off or will have it shut off long enough for s cool down (about an hour) then it starts right up. I have replaced the O2 sensor, full tune up, new starter and battery cable including starter cable, new solenoid, new TPS, and yes I changed the temperature sensor (not temp sender) Yet the problem still continues. The truck is solid and very road worthy with only 105,000 original miles. I also owned a 88 F150 with 249,000 miles on it and never had an issue like this in the 8 years I owned it. I am at my wits end on this one and could use some advise.
Try and replace the switch that chooses the fuel tank. Since ive done that I haven't had a problem.
Above I stated I replaced the fuel pump, but I came across the issue 100 miles later. so then I noticed the switch that chooses the tank was hot and replaced that.
I WAS JUST FOLLOWING UP ON MY PROBLEM WITH MY NEW MODULE I PUT ON DISTRIBUTOR. IT WAS HARD TO TROUBLESHOOT PROBLEM MY NEXTDOOR MECHANIC LET IT RUN FOREVER BEFORE IT FINALLY SHUT OFF. SO FOR HIM TO TEST IF NEW MODULE WAS BAD , HE HAD TO TEST IT WHILE IT WOULDN;T CRANK, BUT TRUCK CRANKED RIGHT BACK UP. THEY ALSO THOUGHT IT COULD BE ELECTRONIC PICKUP IN DISTRIBUTOR. SINCE THE MODULE WAS REPLACED JUST A COUPLE WEEK EARLIER, THEY DECIDED TO JUST REPLACE IT HOPING I JUST GOT A DEFECTIVE ONE. SO FAR SO GOOD AND MAYBE JUST A LITTLE DEER BLOOD ON THE TAILGATE TO FIX IT. P.S.--HE DID NOTICE WHILE LEAVING MY TRUCK RUNNING SO LONG TO GET IT TO SHUT OF A PUDDLE OF ANTI-FREEZE WAS LEAKING OUT--HAD A BAD WATERPUMP HE SAID.. STILL HAD A BIG COST AFTERALL--LORD HELP!!
I have a 1996 Bronco 302 auto 165,000 miles. It has not be abused or mudded, highway driven. It starts right up when cold, it starts right up if it is warm and it hasn't been sitting warm for over 15 mins or so.. BUT if you drive it and park for over 40 mins or so and come back to go somewhere it will turn over fine, at normal speed but the engine will not start up, UNLESS (this is crazy) you pump the accelerator, then is starts like its sputtering then it runs fine. sometimes when i do this it is like the engine doesn't start trying to run right when i let off the key (I let off the key because it is not starting just cranking over) like the switch wont let it run till i stop cranking it .. I have replaced the following with new parts. Distributor, fuel pump, fuel regulator, wires , intake vacuum pump, both temp water sensors, oil pressure sensor, fuel pump, water pump, radiator, clutch fan, alternator, and some other stuff. I took it to a shop in my town and he had it for two weeks with a fuel presure gauge and a spark tester hooked to it at all times with no luck. then i took it to the FORD dealer (Langdale ford ) they said it cranked fine all the time for them... A side note, sometime the Bronco seems to all of a sudden to have more power and then sometimes it goes back to not having good power.
I have the same problem, starts cold no problem. But when its warm it turns over for a while then starts. If it doesn't catch it simply wont start till its cool again. I did figure out that if I pump the gas it starts warm no problem. Now I need to see what part of the fuel system is causing the problem.
I have a 2001 ford F150 with a 4.6 that has the same problem for about a year. It really didn't bother me much because I would start it up in the morning, drive it to work - Then it would cool down - Then drive it back home 9 hours later. So the other week I had stop at store on the way home from work and went to start it up after a few minutes and it just wouldn't start, but after 30 minutes it started without a problem and I drove home. I have done a few of the repairs that some have posted in this forum, but one post on a Ford Forum suggested switching out OEM PCM power relay (I purchased a Borg Warner relay - Part# R3177). After switching out the relay I drove my truck around town and then parked the truck in my driveway. Turned it off, waited a few seconds and turned it back on without any problems - I turned it on and off a few times just to make sure it was not an anomaly. I guess the real test is when the ambient temperature is around 80 degrees. Hope this helps.
I have a 1989 Dodge Dakota. I had my Distributor and all the wires changed everything in the timing and running. A few weeks ago my muffler exploded going down the road. I had to cut the exhaust pipe off in front of cadilladic converter because it came apart also. so since I put the exhaust pipe back on and got the truck running my truck has started not cranking when it gets hot., So now to shield the starter or maybe replace it them shield the new one. The starter heating up is the only problem it can be. Yes I have replaced the coil. everything is new even the fuel pump and all my censors.. So before doing anything I suggest the starter or your coil.. I know if I replaced the bushings in the starter will solve it.. remember if your vehicle is over 10 years then you are more than likely going to have problems..
If you had a shield for the starter prior to taking everything off I would say you have to put it back or replace it. If you post your question again in the Dodge Forum you will get more answers. This form is F-150 and is this question is 3 years old.
Change starter relay my sons 89 gt same crap now works perfectly
Check an see if there is a hidden fuel filter inside a black plastic fuel housing inside the frame rail between the fuel tank and the in- line pressure fuel pump. It has 4 fuel line ports, Use a band type (oil filter) wrench being careful not to break the black plastic bowl unscrewing it. The filter inside is 1 1/2" tall by 2 3/4" across.
I have an 89 ford probe gt.....and its doing the same thing....
I think if you wrap heat cloth around starter it will help, these trucks have headers on them and it is too hot for the starters!
change out the fuel pump relay. when it gets hot it quits working. had same thing on 89 bronco.
Having same problems with my 86 f150 302 am replaceing stater and solanoid. Tomorrow. Will let you know
My husbands 06 f-350 diesel starts up great , but once he shuts it off after it's warmed up , it could take 30min to and hour to cool down before it starts . His mechanic is stumped . Did anyone fix this problem? By the way , the truck doesn't die or shut off while running . It just won't restart after it's warmed up .
My husbands f-350 D is have the same issue . It starts up great , but after it's warmed up if he shuts it off , it will not restart until it's cooled . Could be 30 min to 1.5 hours . His mechanic is stumped. Did anyone find a solution ?
Faulty fuel pump relay can be effected by temp. If the truck still cranks over and no fuel is delivered, change the fuel pump relay and check fuel pressure. Topically a bad fuel pump won't have that sort of consistency. If it isn't the relay or fuse, check the ignition switch.
Has anyone had luck with heat cloth around the starter? Same issue in my 1984 F150 302
My 92 F150 with the 5.8L is doing the same; starts and runs great, but once it gets hot and I shut if off, it can be hard to start like the battery is dying. I'm going to try the heat shield on the starter. For the others here I use to have an 86 5.0 mustang GT that would cut off and the mechanic (by luck) found a sheared cotter key in the distributor housing; replaced it no more cutting off problems. Fun car to drive
Has anyone thought about the flywheel biding the starter up? My 93 starts fine when cold. But once warmed up very hard to start. Like battery is dead. I also get a knock in the truck. Really leaning towards the flywheel heating up and the crack expanding. Will be replacing it shortly. Bye f-250 351w
I hear everyone saying change this and change that, and nothing but money spent happens. I'm not a mechanic or an electrician but I've had a lot of old trucks. From my experience its always been a bad,corroded or dirty connection somewhere in the harness, under the door on the driver side and any other place that wiring is exposed or like one of you mentioned by the starter and manifold where it can get hot and burn. I'm in the same situation as the rest of you and I've just started to trouble shoot the wiring harness at key spots and so far found two issues. This is what causes the vehicle to die slowly. Chances are the was one weak connection, and then there were two, and three until it died. Get where I'm going with this, make some coffee and get at it, hopefully you'll catch the culpret right off but you got to start by looking at what started to go wrong first. And just a note, sensors don't usually quit working no matter what Joe mechanic is saying over there I've found that rarely to b the case. If a warning comes up or motor runs different its because the sensor is doing its job.the wiring or the module it is controlling will always be your problem, and o yes, leave the timing alone, also a rare occurrence. Peace
My 86 ranger started surging some miles down the road then the engine would die. starting back up running great again after setting a good while, Found the problem. There was a small hidden black filter housing just past the fuel tank inside the frame rail, The filter inside was becoming clogged While driving, The fine debris in the filter housing would get stirred up re-clogging the filter stopping the flow of fuel. problem solved after changing the filter.
Same problem,bad fuel pump.
I replaced the ballest resistor wire on my 89 no problem starting since
1996 E250 econoline 4.9L inline does same thing. I ask people at the gas station if I can leave the van on bc it has to cool down for 10 mins before it starts again. Its annoying, but steady. No fix found yet
When your vehicle only starts when it's cold it's a ignition coil or distributor
I removed my Cylinder Head Temp Senor in my 2001 Ford F150 4.6 part# F65F6G004AB. When searching for the part on the Ford Parts website I found that the original part has been replaced with part number 8L3Z-6G004-A. After getting my new part home I was examining the difference between the two and looking at the sensor, I noticed that there was a slight bulge all around the middle of the prob section of the OEM sensor. After installing the new CHT sensor I took the truck for test run to get the truck up to operating temp. Before I installed the new sensor after I parked and tried to restart the engine the truck would not start. It would turn over, but would not start. I also noticed that I did not hear the fuel pump turn on after the key was turned. Like others, I have replaced/cleaned out sensors relays, ports and hoses etc, but stop short of replacing the fuel pump and the PCM. In my case I knew that it was not one of those two because the truck started every time when the weather was cool (below 70 degrees). After installing the new sensor the truck fired right up(It has not done this for a while) after sitting for a week. When I returned home and I turned off the truck then turned it back on the truck fired up. I did this a few more times to test. I also waited 10 minutes to let it heat soak and turned the key and the truck fired up again. Hopefully this is the end to my troubles.
Anytime a ford has stalled when hot but starts and runs fine it has been the ignition control module. 1985 f150 straight 6 - 1982 ford bronco straight 6 1996 f150 straight 6 1987 E150 straight 6. I have had this happen to me every single time i buy a flrd straight 6. Do all yourselves a favour. Buy 2 ignition control modules and if its the older syle install both. When the day comes your fuel tank is full and you get that jerking stalling farting motion. Go unplug your old one and carry on. Switch out the dying one when you can. Any old school ford owner with a straight 6 will tell you to always have a second ignition control module handy for this exact reason. My dad cut the 1985 ford f150 in half and made a trailer out of it just because it broke down on us when going camping one summer and no one could figure it out. I have more stories but lacking time. Its always been the famous i.c.m.
I had the same problem. Will not crank over smooth at operating temp. I installed a starter shim that I purchased from napa. I believe the part# is 655- 1188. No more hard cranking issues when eng gets warmed up.
Check your ignition module located on drivers side fire wall. Two screws easy fix just went through the same thing on my 94 r300
Had the same issue with my 89 F250. Starts great when cold run it and try starting again in the warm weather and sounds like a dead battery. Changed everything! Battery, starter, starter solinoid, plugs, cap, rotor, distributor cap, battery cables. Finally got the notion to replace the cable from the solinoid to the starter with a heavy duty cable (thinking it might be a heat soak problem). Haven't had any starting issues for the past year.
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