After short trips (or long) car almost refuses to start?
After driving the car for 15 minutes or longer and then turning the engine off the car almost refuses to start. After several attempts the car finally starts and runs "rough" for a minute or two with me "playing" with the throttle just to keep it running. After the first minute or two the car then runs fine. What could be the cause of this? The car is a 1983 280ZX ( I own (2) of these cars and they both do it......one car has 52,000 mi the other car has 7,300 mi).
hold the peddle to the metal while starting next time, till you realize the problem and fix it.
I asked the question in hopes someone else had experienced a similiar or the same problem. Suggesting that I "hold the peddle to the metal" is not helping me find the problem and not very helpful in general.
could be heat soak in fuel lines. try starting with hood open to see if that helps
I have a 78 280z that did the same thing, Ireplaced the distributor and that solved my problem.
I have a Pontiac Grand Prix (2002). My car will not start after a short trip as well. If I ride the car a couple of miles or less and turn off the car, it will not start. It is immediate. As soon as I turn the ignition off, it will not start. The car tries to turn over, but never does. This happens whether I try with the key or the auto start's remote keyfob. The car will only start after waiting for a least an hour (sometimes greater), without me doing anything at all to the car. This problem (not start after a short trip ) and solution (waiting at least an hour)?works every time. If I drive the car for more than 10 or miles, this never happens. It only happens after short trips. The car starts everything the rest of the time. This never occurs after the car had run for several miles or after sitting overnight or even after months of sitting. It starts on the first try. This is such a pain in the butt.
I meant to add, this happens whether it is cold, cool, warm or hot. The climate doesn't not change the outcome. There is no lost of power at any point. Amount of gas doesn't not matter. It can be on "E" or have a full tank. Any ideas?
Cold start valve diagnostics and testing. Injectors, performance testing. They are suggesting it is flooded when they say hold the throttle valve open. They are suggesting it is lean. as well. no one really knows except your fuel injection specialist. You could also be having trouble with spark intensity. Excessive secondary resistance in the parts or trouble with the voltage on the primary can give you "low spark". Intensity is another word for current or amps. There are testers. Or there are predictive methods. use a DVOM off the car to check the parts. if you ask, I can suggest the readings to expect, but really, you need to research this and understand it, or consult the fuel injection specialist in your area that is considered reputable. If you refuse to consult live testing, you can read the fuel injection and haynes manuals at your library and ask for help getting thory of operation so you can understand. There are also some specific warnings and steps to take to safeguard against damage. This car is kinda rare for finding things but identify whose system it is and use their data.
I have 1976 280z that was doing the same thing. I thought it was a problem with the cold start valve and air regulator. I installed new of each item and also replaced the connectors for both and it is not doing it anymore. I think it was basically getting a choke from those two parts when it did not need it. The cold start valve is supposed to pump a little extra fuel into the manifold when it is cold, and the air regulator is supposed to close when it is cold and of course not do anything when the car is up to temp. Hope that helps
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