Fuel pump or other issues
driving home one day it started sputtering...no warning or service lights on..no pickup when pushing down accelerator...and finally just quit...scan said fuel pump..replaced it..ran great for about 150 miles...pulled out of a parking lot and again started sputtering...no service lights...towed it home...sat for 3 days and went out and it started right up...stayed running for 2 days and once again died...scan again says fuel pump...replaced (under warranty) and now it won't start and pump is not kicking on...all fuses..relays...and inertia switch test good...10 days before all this started I had the alternator replaced...coinicidence?
be surprised if the alternator job had anything to do with it. If you are sure the pump isn't kicking on, then its either the pump or the power to it, fuses/relays etc. also, are you sure it has spark? I had a similar issue with a ford ranger, older one, but it had no spark or power to the fuel pump. drove us nuts. ended up being the relay for the computer. It would be good if you could get to the wiring and tell if there is any power to the pump.
Get a new pump,the new pump you just put in is bad,it happen,s more often,all 1 out of 4 pumps, are bad from the get go.
have tried new pump....drove for about 50 miles....did the same thing...has spark at fuel pump when tested....also giving a "gurgling" noise in the tank...best thing I can compare to is the sound a pan of boiling water makes...
just had it obd scanned again....throwing codes P0919 Fuel rail pressure sensor circuit....and P1235 Fuel pump control out of range....any ideas now? lol
Dude what did you find out? I was driving my 05 escape and the engine light started flashing. The engine started to shake even while slowing down. Shaking harder when pressing on the gas. So I kept it at about 2k rpm and it went back to normal after about twenty seconds and the light turned off. After some experimentation I found it only does this when its at 3k rpm or more. Runs fine anything less than that. Does the same thing in idle but takes longer for engine light to turn on (which is now on solid). Changed the air filter too. Didn't help. When doing this in idle I noticed the sound coming from the engine and exhaust sounded like it was running out of gas. Kind of a fast "putting" sound. So I'm hoping its the fuel pump because I hear that's an easy fix. Weird thing is just had my alternator replaced. Wtf?
Im sure bhealer you got your escape fixed by now, But I want to put this out there for other people in the same situation,Anytime and I mean ALL THE TIME your check engine flashes it only can mean one thing, You have a misfire, and it needs to be fixed ASAP! you can melt your converters in a very short time with the raw gas going through them.
If you are looking to find the P1235 engine code you should start with the fuelpump driver mod, located under the truck near the spare tire, they are made of aluminum and tend to corode to the point that moisture/water gets to the circuit board and creates problems
Wildchild, I would look at the fuelpump driver mod, It is located on the right rear frame just in front of the spare tire, it is about 4 inches long and 21/2 wide with a plug in it.Should cost you less that 100.00
My 2009 escape won't start sometimes but seems to be getting worse.....you turn the key and it turns over and try to start buy ends up boggling down.....so we have to let it set an hour or longer before we can get it to start and stay running.
Have u guys tried changing fuel filter!
2008 ford escape, does the fuel rail sensor have anything to do with cooling system?????
My escape just died while driving, and I just replaced the alternator.
I went to buy a 2004 Ford Escape with a new engine, but needs a transmission done. Car wouldn't start and the buy said it was due to the battery. However, the car turns over just won't start. He continues to say it is the battery? Any suggestions. I don't think it is the battery due to it turns over with no problems?
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