Engine Shutting off after about 10-20 seconds on 2004 Silverado 1500
Can anyone shed some light on this problem. After driving my 04' Silverado 1500 all day without any problems, after the truck sat in the driveway for a couple of hours, the truck started right up, but then after about 10-20 seconds it shut off. It now continue to do this. It starts normally, but then shuts off. I tried removing battery cables for a while and replacing, but no difference. Has anyone had this problem?
Thanks for the help!
sounds as if you have a fuel suply problem.you did not mention milage,so have you replaced the fuel filter,cleane throtle body with carb. cleaner carbon will build up at butterfly and keep it open,just remove air filter over t body clean until all black ring is gone crank and see what happends,if no change ,probley fuel pump is bad.good luck,and let us know how turned out.
I would also agree that it sounds like a fuel supply problem. The cheapest thing is to replace the fuel filter and then probably the fuel pump (in tank). I would also check for a fuel leak from the tank to the injectors. You may also consider that you could have a clogged fuel injector.
Thanks for the help! Sorry in my delay in replying, just got back in town. I'm going to start with the fuel filter. I'll post results. Rob
Thanks, for the help.
After a brief discussion with the dealer, I found out that the 04' Silverado does not have a fuel filter any longer. It simply has a screen at the bottom of the fuel pump. Also, they told me that it doesn't sound like the fuel pump, because when that goes out, it goes out, it doesn't continue to run like my truck is doing. My truck continually starts up without a problem, but dies after about twenty seconds, so now I'm back to square one. Looks like I need to get the computer diagnosed. Thanks Rob
If this only occurs after the engine is hot, it may be an electrical problem. When the engine is hot, two things occur: (1) thermal effect on connections - electrical connectors expand and dry solder joints or worn connectors may suffer poor contact. (2) thermal effect on components - heat (or extreme cold) tolerance of semi-conductor components may vary performance of power supply throughout the system (to sensors, solenoids, ignition etc) and exhibit unusual engine management behavior. This is evident from several GM technical service bulletins concerning intermiitent electrical problems caused by faults with the power management computer and power distribution box. Be cautious about the GM repair by replacement policy. This will cost you time and money if it is not covered by a current warranty.
disagree,the04 does have a fuel filter .All electric fuel pumps have a sock that goes on the bottom of the pump.check under door on driver side,nside frame rail you should see the filter.in my dealings with the dealership-shop their is usually 1 person that knowes what he is doing the oyher so called mechanics are hired off the street and dont knoe much they all go to the 1 person that knowes.
Actually the Silverados do not have a fuel filter. They removed them from the design in about 2000. My 2001 doesn't have one outside the fuel tank. I've traced all the lines because I didn't believe it either but all they have is the screen at the fuel pump inlet and the screens at the injectors.
At a dealership it all really matters, some guys are there because they are good at certtain things. Not all guys are great a diagnosis, so you have a couple good guys who know diag who then take on the harder jobs.
this happend to my aunts 1996 dodge caravan. it turned out to be the computer ignition system. try looking at the computer
Don't know if this helps but my Grand Voyager (Caravan State side!!) would be fine and then on sunny days mostly I would return to the car to find it start up then die like a fuel or alarm problem. I then found out that if you remove the instrument panel and look at the circuit board it normally has a dry joint. I done this and sure enough one of the solder joints had a broken ring of solder all round it. I resoldered all joints (just in case!!) and it has not done it once since that was over 1 year ago and it has been out in the sun on some hot days!!
I am not an experienced mechanic but i am in college for it. the first thing i would do is find some someplace that has a scan tool and look at the o2 sensors, and mass air flow sensor. i really don't know though. does it have a check engine light on?
TPS sensor maybe? Does it run rough for those 20 seconds? Maybe vaccuum leak? Need more info?
I have an 02 silverado and i do have a fuel filter in the drivers frame rail.I do all my own work and service mine twice a yr.He should also check PVC for function. Could also be problem.
Iam also dealing with a variation of this problem.
Unplug the mass air flow sensor and see if it stays running.I had one fail and that is how it acted.I unplugged it and it ran fine although I got a check engine with it unplugged.I replaced it and no more problems.
think this buggy has OBDII. simply have your codes read. this will tell you which direction to proceed.
my 2000 chevy silverado just randomly die then it will start back up idle for 10 seconds die down over an over. i let it sit for 4 hours started it up an drove it made it a mile an died again then it would go back to starting up for 10 seconds an dead...
Turn the key so the lights are on but not the truck, let it sit for like 60 seconds that way the start it. Just had the same issue. Its a security feature that needs to reset after the battery cables are disconnected. After this it should run fine
Thank you Alexander. Have a 2000 Tahoe Z71. Changed battery and could not start engine (ran 2-3 seconds then shut down). Tried resetting the fuel rails via turning on ignition for 5 seconds--no joy. Read your comment, above, turned system on for 65 seconds, turned it to start, and it started up and kept running. As a note: Owners manual only states that under such circumstances to take the vehicle to the dealer to reset the security system.
i have a 2000 sierra SLE , starts first time then 10 mins later dies and then when i try to turn it on again it starts then dies right away, i have replaced the fuel pump but it did not help at all. someone please help
Bad fueel. Pump. Hit tank if. Engine keeps running got your self bad fp
If you security light is on when this happens then it's a plug that is on the ignition remove the cover on the steering column and you will see it on your left it has two wires move it around and see if it starts if it does I put a toothpick on the back side to make it keep contact it is a common problem with these trucks hopefully that will fix your problem
i have a 2002 Chevy silverado and it will start then die. I turn it off then it will start right back up and stay on. I have changed out the fuel pump and a brand new tank put in. What could it be?
I had the same issue with my 05 tahoe for months, It turned out to be the Crank Position sensor. I changed it and it's been running great since
My 2000 silverado 2500 with the 6.0 always started than immediately died so I got in habit of starting it and quickly giving only a small amount of throttle and it always ran fine I cheng ed my pump once and changed my filter every second oil change I always kept my mass air flow cleaned with carb cleaner and every 6 months I would spray out the throttle body with carb clean and I was really good with keeping mid grade gas in it and ran sea foam and lucas fuel injector cleaner once a month. Which helped with keeping my cat code clear I never did find out what the problem was but I would have someone read what the o2 sensors are doing that would be my guess
It turned out to me my Idle control valve was going out.. I got it fix and haven't had an issue... Thank you
I have a 96 1500 silverado. It takes numerous attempts to start. If i hit the brake immediately after starting the first time it dies. After more numerous attempts to start it finally does. It will run fine for 15 minutes. I turn it off and then try to restart it and nothing. I end up killing ths battery before i finally get it restarted. Any ideas? Thank you
I have just replaced the following today.. Starter, plugs, wires, inline fuel filter, distributor cap and rotor, new wires. Also tried swapping out the following for knowingly good parts.. Mass air flow and idle air control valve. Still same issue. I really dont want her ending up in junkyard.
My 05 suburban will start and when I stop it will die I changed my crank and my cam position sensors and still does the same
This may be unrelated, but I can attest to the heat causing problems in electrical. I had the similar problem with my 05 Suburban 175000 miles. It first stalled pulling out into traffic on a hot day in Austin, left turn, dead stall, no stearing, traffic coming - scary. I was able to get out of the way. It started right up. Ran fine for a day. Then did it again. I was on a road trip. It made me nervous. by now I'm in Arkansas. A day later it did it again. again. A couple days later I noticed it was only on left turns. I went to two dealers and two repair shops on the road. No clue. I told them about theories on this thread and others... they rolled their eyes. "only on left turns?" no way. has to be a wire short. They didn't have time, I was traveling out of state. The car was still going "straight and right" just fine... so I drove on. then I hit a big bump in the road, and it stalled, but didn't die. 10 miles later it did it again. I'm in the middle of Oklahoma, and it is getting worse. Finally, I'm in walled in construction, no shoulder, 10 miles of it, and it dies completely. I shift to nuetral and it won't start. It tries, but won't. I'm coasting to a stop, 10mph, and there in front of me is a hole in the concrete barrier that I ease through out of traffic, get towed to a shop and they start pulling on wires. By this time, the car has cooled and it starts fine. They notice on a bunch of wires that run down behind or beside the powersteering pump, that the car will stall if they pull on those. So they slide under and take of the skid plate and disconnect all those wires and pull them up. Cut all the tape off, and examine them. The two little wires going to the AC switch have a kink and a worn spot, one has the plastic off for an 1/8 inch and the wire is exposed. We taped them up... saw no other bad spots and shook our head and put it all back together. For some reason on the left turn and later when it worsened, a bump, the rub got worse and worse and then shorted out completely (when it was hot) The AC was working fine, there had been no engine light codes, but this surge / short had caused the stall. It is working fine now... just drove 200 miles with not one stall. It had gotten so bad that it was stalling every left turn and most bumps in the road. It took 1.5 hours to pull it all out, and put it all back. No parts necessary. Hope this helps.
Hey Devon hate to object,but my 2004 Silverado has an external fuel filter from factory.. It is located on drivers side frame rail just in front of fuel tank.... That dealer is an idiot! !!!
I had the same problem with my 2003 chevy silverado cutting off this weekend but I noticed my alarm didn't work so I took a chance on changing the battery in the remote and it immediately started working no problem.
I have a 95 Tahoe, my engine shut off after about 10-20 seconds after having an alarm installed. I was able to start my truck and put in gear then it would just die. My battery, fuel filter, fuses, etc are not the problem - are working. Alexander's answer worked -"Turn the key so the lights are on but not the truck, let it sit for like 60 seconds that way the start it. Just had the same issue. Its a security feature that needs to reset after the battery cables are disconnected. After this it should run fine" I followed what he said and it worked perfectly. So, I would advise anyone having something installed (who may come across this problem) to try this first, before replacing a whole lot of things.
having the same issue with my 2004 6.0 silverado, truck has been nothing but issues. Truck sat for two weeks, charged the battery up and the truck will run for a second or two. Previous owner put a junk head-unit in the truck, and Ive began to wonder if thats the reason this truck has nothing but issues. Chev had all their stuff programmed through these stock head units. Any comments would be helpful.
Please see the response by ALEXANDER, above, as related to my problem immediately below it.. Sounds like your battery was disconnected a good while. His response saved me a lot of grief!
08 silverado 4.8 liter came in shop for fuel pump it would start and die. changed fuel pump no start no fuel pressure.
This reply is gonna be lengthy but bare with me I can help, I think!!! 2003 Chevy Suburban, v8 Last summer I had an issue with the "reduced engine power" error message after hitting bumps. Like the rest of you I went searching frantically online for a solution in any and every Chevy forum. I found a common denominator in every forum. IT WAS ALWAYS FUEL RELATED. Whether it was the throttle body, the throttle body O ring or some connected electrical part. For some people the Throttle body was not opening and closing as it should, for other, LIKE MYSELF, it was a simple short in the wiring harness leading to the throttle body. The problem was all of the really small wires leading to the throttle body had heated up and just simply moving them around for other repairs had caused some of them to separate inside the plastic casing, Just at a glance you see no issue but when running your fingers down each wire you may find one or more separated inside the casing. When you hit a bump they move, the copper is no longer, even if for a moment, making contact. Sometimes it separates for a moment and touches again that's why restarting seems to fix the problem until you hit another bump. Through my own investigation and REPAIRING 4 OF THESE WIRES Ive found that the hot wires, meaning the wires sending the power, meaning the top row, meaning NOT the grounding wires cause the "reduced engine power" error message when they are not making great contact. Repairing or replacing some of these wires my fix your problem. BE SURE TO COVER ANY EXPOSED COPPER OR OTHER METAL CONNECTORS OR WIRES!!!!!! If they touch each other they may cause the same problem over again, drain your battery or kill your computer. 4 MONTHS AGO I HAD THE FUEL PUMP AND FILTER REPLACED Last week I had a problem with my truck idling down and powering off after taking a bump BUT NO ERROR MESSAGE!!!! NO "REDUCED ENGINE POWER' FLASHING ON MY DASH!!! I was both confused and frustrated!!!! The bottom row of wires or the ground wires........... when there is a problem with connectivity with these wires it causes loss of power and idling down and shutting off for a while. Usually when these wires are to blame the truck doesn't start back up for hours maybe days but suddenly without explanation it starts back up. SIMPLY REPAIRING THESE WIRES DIDNT FIX THE PROBLEM FOR ME. In addition to repairing these wires I also switched the fuel pump relay with the windshield wiper relay because they are the same and if I had to be without windshield wipers for a few hours until I got to the parts store that's better than my truck not running. I replaced the fuel pump fuse. It wasn't blown but I did it anyway. I also relieved the fuel pressure by following the steps in the manual. I will list them below for those who don't have the manual. AFTER ALL OF THIS I tried my hardest to get my truck to shut off again by taking bumps and even jumping up and down on it while it was on and parked to simulate going over a bump. Still running, I will update if I have any further issues. TO RELIEVE THE FUEL PRESSURE 1. REMOVE THE GAS CAP 2. REMOVE THE FUEL PUMP RELAY, TAKE THIS OPPORTUNITY TO SWAP IT WITH ANOTHER RELAY THE SAME SIZE AND AMPS BUT DONT PUT IT BACK UNTIL I TELL YOU 3. GET INSIDE THE TRUCK AND ATTEMPT TO START IT. IT MAY START FOR A SECOND THEN IDLE DOWN AND TURN OFF OR IT MAY NOT START. TAKE THE KEY OUT AFTERWARDS 4. REMPOVE THE NEGATIVE BATTERY CABLE 5.REPLACE THE GAS CAP 6. REPLACE THE FUEL PUMP RELAY 7. PUT THE NEGATIVE BATTERY CABLE BACK ON 8. START THE TRUCK. THIS WORKED FOR ME AND I HOPE IT HELPS YOU.
I have a 2009 Chevy 1500 my truck starts up then after 5 or so seconds it dies the engine light comes on and also the traction control light comes on then it dies now sometimes when I hit the gas real fast on and off it starts and stays running but the computer says reduced engine power and the same lights come on. I have checked the fuel pressure replaced the fuel pump/ fuel filter cause the filter is in the tank right above the fuel pump I have blew the lines out and yet it still does the same thing any educated advice tomorrow I am towing it to see if it will read any cold. The truck was in much colder weather and now we moved back to Georgia and its started doing this
I'm having the same problem on a 05 suburban cranks and dies acts as if it the fuel pump but I replaced it then I noticed that once it dies my oil gauge is always at 0 and it will not crank until I pull the key out for a second once I put it back in turn the switch on if the oil pressure needle goes over any it will crank but once it's running I noticed that the needle fades really fast then shuts off it never stays running longer than 15 seconds any help on this
I have a 2006 Silverado with a 5.3. it will start then die. no codes no check engine light. ive replaced the fuel pump, evap canister and solenoid, throttle body and cleaned my maf sensor. still dies. any ideas and no mine does not have an external fuel filter.
I have a 96 Chevy Tahoe 350 5.7 and I keep having the same problem. Did the diagnostic and it said it was the camshaft and crankshaft position sensors. Changed those out with new ones. But I'm still having the same problem. Can anyone help?
I have a 2006 chevy Silverado 5.3L. Sometimes the rubber seal around the computer wiring gets water inside the connector check for that
I got a 2003 chevy silverado 5.3L and I'm having the same issue. Replaced the fuel pump, crank shaft sensor, camshaft sensor, all spark plugs and wires, and I'm still having the random stall outs when either at a low idle or going down hill and not accelerating. I've put in too much money towards this problem and really need help. I'd have gotten rid of it by now if it wasn't for the money I've already put into the truck.
Come to find out. I had a broken ground wire to the block on the drivers side. Make sure you check all your grounds
My issue is when I start my 1999 chevy Silverado it seems to want to die after about 2-3 seconds after its cranked. I have checked the fuel pump, and the alternator. Can anyone please try to help me figure out this problem?
What if there's no pulse to the injectors
I have a 93 k1500 can any body help me
To Devon and all Chevy Dealers that think a Silverado does not have a external fuel filter... it is located on the drivers side frame rail just after the ABS distribution system... on all Silverado's from 2000 to 2006... On Sierra's 2000 to 2006 it is before the ABS...
Above is Silverado .... Below is Sierra
I brought my truck to a dealership at last to get looked at. They found a wire in the harness to the coils that was not repaired the right way which I assume is why when it stalled out there was no spark at times. They fixed that issue and did a crank test to put the timing for sparking and injecting fuel in at corresponding times. Haven't had any issues yet so that could possibly have solved it. Always look at all wIred connections as you don't know what could be faulty.
I have a 2004 Silverado LS Extended Cab 4.8...I was having issue with truck starting, running/warming up o.k., then back out of the driveway or make it about a block to exit the neighborhood and truck dies...all lights on dash/gauges function...try to restart and turns over and over, did not run...thought maybe it was an issue with the Dorman ignition switch I replaced about 1-1/2 years ago or passive ignition/fuel cutoff switch on key cylinder...many hours later(tonight) I started running down ground wires...my truck in particular has a black ground wire that attaches to a stud on the back side of the power steering pump, which happened to be missing the nut to secure it...I did put a brand new, not rebuilt, long block in it about a year ago, as I was a lucky recipient of the poorly cast heads that leaked coolant into the oil...I specifically remember securing that ground with the nut(its not a true locknut, but has a large surface with small pawls) and couldn't believe it was gone, but the terminal ring was flush to the bottom of the stud and obviously making just enough contact to run great for 4-5 days, then not...one more follow-up in regards to fuel filter, I do not have an external one either, as I have followed lines from tank to fuel rail and it does not exist on my truck...to which, I have the electronic(drive by wire) throttle body and no air/smog pump and just wonder if the fuel filter is/isn't on the trucks that use the throttle body with mechanical throttle cable??? Good luck to all as, these small issues/fixes, can be incredibly frustrating...
I have a 2003 Silverado that don't start, all dash lights works. When I put in park no gear indicator when I try to start the truck message says door ajar like it's not in park. The starter motor does not turn at all. I don't hear the fuel pump turn on also. Need help..
My 2004 Silverado began having problems when it stopped on the highway, managed to get it going and got home and found it to be unpredictable as to whether it would start . The dash lights flash on and off and no start, all kinds of weird things going on until it just refused to do anything. New battery didn't help, electrical connections seemed good,so replaced the " ignition switch " and it has started a dozen times since . That switch is just below the key tumbler and only cost 35.00 at Bumper to Bumper.
My buddy was giving his 92 sub to junk for Jesus. I asked him what's up with the burb he told me it was crapping out on him it won't stay running so junk for Jesus it goes so instead he gave it to me. I own a 2001 grand am with pass lock 2 anti theft system giving the same problem type. So I went and purchased a battery and two quarts of dex3 turned the key it started right up and after 10 sec it died so without turning the key back off I left it on for like 11 min the truck start÷d right up and ran beautiful what's funny my buddy was told from a couple of different shops and was told they would have to replace the knock sensor for around $300 so being a good friend I drove his truck back to him and he owes me the price of the battery. He was very impressed and told me to keep the truck. Great friendship
my friend just fixed his 2003 silverado with same problem and it was fuel regulator or fuel regulating sensor under the carb. learned a lot from this thread tho.
Maybe its the security feature. It happened to me and after research I discovered there is a security feature that disengages your fuel supply when battery cables are removed. You have to cut your lights on without truck running. If you're inside you will hear it reset.
carb? carbeurator? does 03 hav a carbeurator?
why don't you have a mechanic hook up a fuel pressure gauge to know if it is a fuel pump issue/ then a noid light to the injector harness to eliminate a fuel issue, if the engine runs for 10-20 seconds can't be totally cloged injectors
I had the same issue. The ignition module was bas. After about 10-20 seconds of the engine running the module heats up and the particles inside split apart. I took it and had a test ran on it. It passed the first 3 tests, but on the fourth test when the module got hot it failed the test. I changed it and never had a issue again.
I had my 2004 Silverado quit when it hit a bump. I took the wire looms apart, changed the fuel pump, changed all the major parts on the air intake systems, put a new battery in, new cables and alternator. And at the end it still messed up. Later today I found some ground wires bolted to the frame under the driver side cab. The bolts have become rusted and when tried to take it off the bolts broke. So, I drilled and threaded a new hole in the main frame and re-attached the wires. It did it again... later I found a single ground behind the engine bolted on to the block, when i touched it, it fell off and engine quit. I re-grounded it to the block. I cleaned all the battery terminals and ground points on the bottom of the block. This finally worked. Damn electrical designers for GM need to be shot in the head.
rofl @tuckman so tru
Its the crank shaft sensor my jeep did the same thing.
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