coil pack keeps rupturing on cylinder 5
i have a 2007 dodge ram 1500 2wd. i was driving home last thursday morning and had my check enging light come on. I went and had the code read on it and it said that i had a misfire on cylinder #5. I looked at the cylinder and the coil pack was cracked on the opposite side of the wiring connection. I pulled the pack and replaced it and it ran fine for about 15 miles and once again it died on me and would not start. I didn't think to check the coil pack again because I wasn't expecting it to be broken again so I looked online to see what could be causing the truck not to start. I replaced the cam shaft sensor, the crank shaft sensor and the EGR valve. none of that worked so I reset the battery and it started long enough for me to get to autozone to have another code read and once again it showed that I had a misfire on cylinder 5 and I looked at it and it had about a half inch hole in it. I replaced it along with new plugs and it seemed to be running fine for about 20 minutes and my check engine light once again came on. I was not thinking anything of it because it had been coming on for a loose gas cap code. I drove it for about 5 miles and as I was puling back into the drive way it shut off once again started running rough and died and will not start again so I raised the hood and once again the coil pack it busted. Please help!
Only thing that I can think of to burn a coil out like that is high resistance, or a complete open in the circuit from the coil to the plug. But as you stated it ran good for a while after the last coil and plugs, did you notice anything odd about he plug boots?
no it only lasted about 20 to 30 minutes or about 15-20 miles before it burned out again. it would run fine and then BAM coil pack 5 would burn out and split in 2. where would you suggest that I search for the resistance starting at?
Check the wiring that goes to the coil that is giving you problems. It is likely that one of the wires is shorted to ground somewhere causing the coil to have power applied to it continuously. Voltage applied all the time rather than on and of (which is normal) will damage coils.
Did some more research and the ground could be open as well.
Start with checking the injector driver wire from the ECM to the number 5 coil, then check the injector driver pulses, and coil power input, with the engine running, it should be a series of steady regular pulses at idle and increase as the RPM's come up, your watching for any irregular or prolonged spikes in the driver signal and at the same time watch for stable power input, you watching for a drop out in voltage. If you do find an prolonged driver spike then check the cam and crank sensor signals, there again your looking for a even pulse signal, if you do see a double pulse that keeps happening at regular intervals then check the pulse ring for a crack or split sensor bar, or even a break in the sensor itself. if you find a power problem with it dropping out then check the power wire from number 5 all the way back to the source, your looking for rubbed through spots that cause a crosscircuit or intermittent short. If you have done all of this testing and still have a problem then the only other option is to replace the ECM and hope it is an internal injector driver problem. I know this seem like a lot to do and you may not have all the tools to properly do all of the work, but you maybe able to rent most of them or possibly someone you know will help you out. HTH
Thanks for responding but I cannot get it running long enough to check any of this without replacing the coil pack again. And when I do replace it, it will only run abt 20 minutes or so before it blows it again. But I can check the wiring before I replace the pack again for shorts and such.
1 coil pack either missing or being bad should not keep it from running. Something maybe wrong with the wiring.
It should run with number 5 coil disconnected, it will just have the number 5 failure code set. and you can check the patterns.
I checked all the wires from the coil pack all the way back to where they plug into the module at and could not fine any cut or frayed or burned wires and I checked all the grounds from the frame to battery and alternator and to the block and there were no loose grounds....gonna try the ecm tomorrow and see if it may be faulty somewhere
Also checked to make sure that fuel was not getting into the hole where the plugs are and it was dry so no fuel is getting there
Did you check the signals from the cam and cranks sensors?
Chryslers Coil harnesses are complete crap...only three strands of wire and are easily broken....replace with The Holley Coil wire harness ...you can get them on line for only $103.79.......about $100.00 cheapers than the crappy Mopar one
Hi, Did you ever resolve this? I am having a similar issue with my 2006 Dodge Ram..
I had this problem with #7 cylinder a year and a half ago...couldn't keep coil packs in long enugh to see what was going on, they would split almost instantly. I gave up after 5 coil packs and an ecu....gave it to someone who changed the cam position sensor and everything was well. he also said one of the ecu connectors had an issue and he had to mess with it to get it to seat properly (could have been when I changed the ecu) guess what....a year and a half later and I get a check engine light with the same diagnosis. I'll post my results hopefully someone can learn from this...I did find about months ago a ground from the passenger side that was broken but I didn't fix it....maybe that's why the crank sensor went again...I'm gonna replace the crank sensor...ground wire...and coil and hopefully I'm ok..ill let u guys know
also I have an 06 dodge ram 4x4 hemi.. I've had no issues with this problem for a year and a half...I'm not happy
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