i have a 1972 chev c10 pickup with dash gauge issues.


Asked by Oct 27, 2013 at 12:54 PM about the 1972 Chevrolet C10

Question type: Maintenance & Repair

The oil/temp/amp gauges in dash do not work. The gas gauge and dash lights do work. I have changed temp sending unit because the needle pegged when grounded but that didnt help. Also the feed wire does have 12v when ignition is on. I have checked ground straps on dr side running from frame to firewall and on pass side running from engine to firewall. Any help would be appreciated Thanks

3 Answers

Andrew Olsen

the 70 i had these gauges failed and were broken. Aftermarket gauges fit right in the holes

3 out of 3 people think this is helpful.
Nathan Nichols

You need to pull your instrument cluster and check your printed circuit. The temp and amp gauge are electrical and are connected to it. Oil press is a mechanical gauge, so if it isn't working, check the entire length of copper tubing, from the corkscrew coming out of the back of the block, to where the tubing connects to the gauge, for leaks. You can also disconnect the tubing from the back of the gauge, disable your coil (so your engine wont start), and hold an empty oil container up to the end of the tubing while cranking your engine to make sure oil is making it to that point. All else fails, go to your local auto parts store and get an Autometer or Sunpro triple gauge pod. The bracket will mount right under the middle of your dash using the 2 large philips head screws that hold your temp control assembly in the dash. I bought the Sunpro white faced gauge pod for $37 and some change at Advanced Autoparts, and it only took 45min to install.

1 out of 1 people think this is helpful.

There are no common aftermarket replacements for the instrument cluster or the printed circuit board. There are many listed on eBay in various conditions and it is not difficult to remove and replace the cluster. You may also be able to find it on several of the "antique" supply houses on the Internet. The main problem with these are at the wiring harness connectors. Sometimes it's loose connectors, sometimes it's cold solder joints on the board itself, sometimes it's broken traces. If the entire cluster is inoperable then it will most likely be the main 12 volt trace and/or connector. Most of these problems can be fixed if you have good soldering techniques. Before you get into all that, be sure to check the obvious - a 5 amp fuse at the fuse box labeled "INST" and a 20 amp fuse labeled "GUGE".

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