1996 ram 1500 5.9 turns over wont start need help

560

Asked by Dec 04, 2010 at 07:10 PM about the 1996 Dodge Ram 1500 Laramie SLT RWD

Question type: Maintenance & Repair

truck started out running fine but would randomly die. wait a few minutes and would usually fire right back up. then it would randomly die again.. now it only turns over.no fire.tried a snap on diagnostic computer it said no fault detected.... changed coil,crank sensor, cam sensor. under the cap is clean,plugs and wires seem good. checked fuel pressure on the rail its good.checked some fuses and relays.still nothing today i tried to crank it over and nothing..  i jumped the starter with a screwdriver and it turns over fine but still wont start. could it be the ignition switch wore out and not making contact?

72 Answers

5,305

Pour some starting fluid down the throttle body and crank some more... if it still doesn't start or sputter then I would suspect your coil is culprit

26 people found this helpful.
560

i put on a new coil from napa. still nothing. i tried the starting fluid thing and it did run for a second starting fluid has a low flashpoint so wouldnt it just be kind of dieseling( for lack of a better word) from the compression?

12 people found this helpful.
560

and is there any way i could maybe run a hot wire to the coil like you can on older non fuel injected engines?

44 people found this helpful.
5,305

if it ran for a second with starting fluid then it's a fuel or timing issue. You said you checked the pressure at the rail and it was good... but how much pressure was there?

20 people found this helpful.
2,505

I would say it's the Throttle Position Sensor, and it won't give you a code, based on your description.

16 people found this helpful.
440

My dodge did the same thing and it was the pick-up under the distributer cap.

28 people found this helpful.
1,955

you might check your ignition switches, mine started doin that on the first of january, if you take the plastic covers off the steering coloumn (right behind the steering wheel) youll see a little black box right under the ignition, theres a bunch of copper contacts in there, (part of the ignition) if one of those goes bad (mine did) youll have to get another ignition, very very very very easy to change out, youll need a special torx head bit to pull the (3) screws, if you try it and it doesnt work, then i dont have a clue what it could be

16 people found this helpful.
5,305

The "pick up" or pick up coil is the cam sensor... he said he changed it

21 people found this helpful.
440

My problem was the tiny flat "pick-up"sensor under the distributer cap.Not the camshaft sensor located on the side of the engine.

16 people found this helpful.
5,305

The little black disk under the distributor cap IS the cam sensor, it's also called the pick up plate or pick up coil.... I don't know what sensor your referring to on the side of the engine

13 people found this helpful.
235

Did you clean the Throttle Body?

6 people found this helpful.
75

try ur fuel filter or ur cat converter

7 people found this helpful.
85

Try your ground on your starter, if is lose that could possibly be an issue. Also when your cranking it over have someone put there hand on the computer if its start getting hot, then you could have a crapped out computer.

8 people found this helpful.
165

Try having your ecu looked at. mine recently went out and all it would do is crank

12 people found this helpful.
300

What is the ecu? I have just replaced my crank sensor,pick up sensor,fuel pump,checked injecters,checked coil and still it just cranks over. started running real rough like it wasnt getting any fuel,now it wont even start

30 people found this helpful.
80

it on the passenger side on the back wall mine is doing the same thing i put a new computer in mine and it fixed it then it went out agan

8 people found this helpful.
70

my dodge is doin the same before i spend three hundred on a ecm could that be it

7 people found this helpful.
430

ok all u guys have had similar issues as mine..... i put fuel in it at the gas station and it wont start. i tried the starter fluid i changed the plugs, i believe that i have checked aeverything mechanically i know my ECM is good along with fuel pump/ pressure, and the o2 sensor is good. it has a bad tranny, and exhaust. could that be effedcting this at all? i recently had problems with the serp. belt due to a bad power steering pump. both have been replaced, would this have anything to do with it just not starting. she cranks and cranks and u can even hear the muffler begin/ want to begin to kick too. everything but that last turn over. SOMEONE PLEASE HELP ME!!1

43 people found this helpful.
150

did you every get it fixed ? I am having same problems...

15 people found this helpful.
125

Check your Air intake valve. its on the back of your throtlle body had to replace mine twice.

11 people found this helpful.
745

Did you get it fixed? Sounds like it may have jumped time. mine is doing the same thing running a while, starting back up, sometimes runs for miles before it dies again. need help please!

16 people found this helpful.
745

Did you get it fixed? Sounds like it may have jumped time. mine is doing the same thing running a while, starting back up, sometimes runs for miles before it dies again. need help please!

10 people found this helpful.
745

Did you get it fixed? Sounds like it may have jumped time. mine is doing the same thing running a while, starting back up, sometimes runs for miles before it dies again. need help please!

7 people found this helpful.
50

i had the problem and i replaced my distributor cap and rotor now 2 weeks later it doin the same thing idk whats wrong with mine but id try those to things if ur still havin issues

5 people found this helpful.
380

If it runs for awhile then dies, it sounds like a fuel filter. Mine cranks seems like it may try to start barely every once in awhile but doesn't. I can hear the fuel pump kick on and whir and that's what I had thought it was. Someone told me that these kind of fuel injections can get air in the lines sometimes for no reason and needs the pressure bled off. Is this true anybody know?

9 people found this helpful.
250

My 5.2 is doing the same thing. Thought is it was a Crank sensor so I tested it and it seems fine. I took another look at the fuel rail and released the pressure. For whatever reason, it started and ran a little rough at first then idled fine for at least 30 mins then died again and would restart. I'm starting to think it's fuel related and seemed like air trapped in the rails...

12 people found this helpful.
380

You know what it was? I replaced the coil and got it started then the next day it wouldn't start again. It was still turning over. I never had a problem with it until I had bought a new battery. Didn't think it was that because it was still cranking and the cold cranking amps on the new one were higher than the old! But I took the battery back and got an even higher one than was called for on that truck and it's fine. Haven't had a problem since. It is pretty easy to relieve the pressure on the fuel rail. I did that too but I don't think that was any of the problem.

10 people found this helpful.
380

K spoke too soon. Drove it 400 miles or more no problem but I just was pullin into a convenience store and it died before I could pull all the way up. Would not start again but was still turning over just real rough sounding. Had someone come. Tried to jump it in case it's the alternator and the battery somehow went dead enough not to run it, and it started up and ran about 4 stops so far. Had em check battery and alternator, all good!!! WTF??? Just don't want to drive and have it do that again and get stranded. Don't even know what else to check.

19 people found this helpful.
250

It's a PITA! I brokke down and bought a fuel pressure tester. pressure is good then the truck actually started! fuel remained at 48-50 psi right through to when it died a few minutes later. I'm ruling out fuel and concentrating on spark. I think the PCM is randomly cutting out the coil power due to a possible sensor problem. The crank sensor is still a suspect but I cannot figure out where to look at this point. I've ordered a scan tool converter and software for a look inside. Hopefully I'll have it later this week and try to figure out what's going on in there!

9 people found this helpful.
1,955

has anyone checked their oil and fluid levels?, check all fuses, maybe a the relays, if any one of you has a perfomance chip plugged intop the ecu, pull it and plug the harness back in without the chip, some of you may have a bad ignition switch, one problem i had i was in the middle of a veeerrry cooolld winter my truck wouldnt start as easy, i later found out (mine is automatic trans) that the shifter was barely enough in park so it would crank all day, but it was hitting every sensor because it wasnt in park 100%, check that as well, the stupidest little things can cause a big ass problem, hope any of these helps some of you guys

8 people found this helpful.
30

change youyr crank shaft sensor it worked for me

3 people found this helpful.
1,955

have you guys fixed your problems yet? do any of you have performance chips or programmers plugged into the pcm? if so, pull it, make sure the connections are clean and dry, plug the harness back in w/o the chip and your problems will be gone, if this is not the case, check you engine oil and trans fluid, i know some trucks have sensors to shut the truck down if its too low on a fluid, it cud also be the contact in your ignition box, its a pain in the ass to change if you dont have the right tools because chrysler used special screws, you can buy the kit at a parts store, any way, try a new or another ignition, had this problem with my 96, you can hot wire it if you know what your doing and have experiance in fuckin shit up lol, the set up for these style ignitions is ruhtarded, but its very simple to change out, and is very well a suspect in your issues, sometimes itll work just fine, and the right bump can jiggle things inside and shut off the truck

12 people found this helpful.
230

my 94 dodge 1500 5.2 did like many above experienced; i can tell you that if you do not have at least a 12 volt reading going to where you plug into the coil that your truck wont start. my truck ran fine always and one day i pulled out the driveway and noticed a coughing like back fire coming from air filter. so i replaced all my obvious tune up parts. new coil,cap&rotor o2 sensor wires, plugs, cam position sensor in the distributor and my truck started up and did exactly the same thing. i tested all realays and swapped them out to be certain. still the same. the next morning the truck wont start and i found there is no dc volts going to the coil from the plug in. so now i can not even start the truck it just turns over and no ignition. if i can find out what is causing no volts at the coil plug in leads then i can solve every ones problems. but to date not one person can tell me what feeds those two coil wires that plug into the coil. i have only two suspects 1. the brain and two the ignition switch every thing else has been replaced new. so what feeds the coil its voltage and i found every ones problem. dont be like me and buy all the wrong parts for hundreds of dollars. always first confirm that when the ign. is in the on position you have volts at your coil. if you dont you experienced what i have experienced. and im on it with 35 years as a mechanic im ashamed to have to ask fo help.

23 people found this helpful.
250

My problem turned out to be a combination of both the crank sensor and then the new coil. I replaced the 1.5 year old coil as a precaution so after all the fuss with two crank sensors, the new coil was also faulty. I put the older coil back on and no more problems. If there is no voltage at the coil, are you able to use a scanner to see if the computer and relay are energizing the circuit? Assuming the battery is fine and all of the grounds are making a good connection, you should be able to follow the trail to the computer. It's possible the output for this circuit is fried.

4 people found this helpful.
80

Please check your wiring harness Dodge has lots of problem with these. Turn your key on to the run position and go back to the harness if you hear a high pitched wine its a short in the harness listen close. Because it want be loud

8 people found this helpful.
145

everyone seems to have the same problem that we had on our 96 ram 1500 we checked everything we thought but turn to find out it was our secondary ground wire.

14 people found this helpful.
150

I had my truck towed the other day to a Midas after I had spent an hour or so trying to figure this out. Most of the same symptoms as mentioned here. I have a 97 RAM 5.9 SST 282k miles. I've done enough work on the truck to know when I don't have gas or no spark. I figured out an issue 2 yrs before my fuel pump died, so I know when there are other basic issues. The Symptoms Started: 4 weeks before, my truck had a rough time starting and getting spark, eventually it caught spark and started running rough, and I let it warm up. I had other issues where it just ran rough for a while, but didn't seem to think it was an issue. Maybe rain, I had read it had something to do with moisture in the distributor cap. 1 week later, my truck had not wanted to run at all after a heavy evening of rain. I literally took off the air filter, jiggled wires around the distributor cap, tried pulling a spark plug, and turned the engine over a bit. Put the plug back in, and it started and I let it run a it to warm up. Never had an issue since, and I drive it every day usu 30 miles. Never trust dumb luck, it was just a warning of a future failure. Recently, I drove my truck a few times in the 20F temps. I stopped the truck after it was pretty much warmed up, then it would not start. Maybe got a few firings then nothing. I tried the same magic as before, but I figured the coil must have gone for good this time, The verdict was in, Midas replaced my distributor, the cam sensor, and the coil. It started right up. The cap and rotor were in great shape and didn't need replacing. Overall, it was $500. It was about 0F outside today, so I think it was worth it. In hindsight, I think even if I had replaced the coil, the sensor was likely the main issue.

6 people found this helpful.
40

I have had this problem on two separate 96 dodge trucks and the engine temp sensor was the culprit both times. cold climate environment for both trucks one failure in the winter one in the summer

4 people found this helpful.
150

Here's something else. After getting my truck "fixed" at Midas, within days I still noticed an intermittent but hard to detect misfire, but my check engine light did not come on for (now three) weeks after. This past weekend, I noticed one thing, it finally came on and I definitely had misfirings. Well, they had left a spark plug wire not attached into its plastic holder, but rather it was hanging against my manifold. So, that had melted and was arching. I taped that up so I could drive home and fix it later when it warmed up. I drove 5 hours the next day, no major issues, but the same kind of light misfirings were still occurring. It seemed as if it was occasionally missing or having a weak spark, but really no backfires. ... so the day after that... Last night I'm driving home during the sleet and rain after it gets above freezing finally, and I drove thru a large puddle and my truck stalls out. After the cop shows and I call a tow, 15 minutes later, I'm able to start my truck again. I begin to link my stalling with the rain. Again, no water near the distributor cap, etc. Although, I realized my coil was getting wet. I read a post last night on a Dodge forum that I should start the truck and spray these parts one at a time with water to see where it is effecting the ignition. As I checked out the coil before I did this, I noticed the coil wire and the power to the coil were arching during idle. I moved the wire more than 1 inch away and it ran fine. Then I sprayed it, and the truck stalled out. There's another answer for anyone else who has had this issue. The wires can not be close to the coil, and I'm pretty sure Midas screwed that up, too. Something about insulating the connections might be part of the issue here too.

9 people found this helpful.
90

Theres a little wire on the bottom of the distptor if you mess with. It your truck will start right up and when its dies you mess with that wire and she starts right up we have a dodge and it destoyed our computer because that little wire

9 people found this helpful.
250

My truck just dies while im driving. Then I will let it sit and it will start and drive then die again. I got it started and just idled for 5 min and drove home with no problem. Can anyone give me a definative answer as to why?

21 people found this helpful.
250

Code reader says exaust leak and o2. I do have an exaust manifold gasket leak and. No exaust from about the cab back. Also I, have no reverse

4 people found this helpful.
40

i have a 97 ram 1500 4x4 318.i can let it set for a couple days and it will crank up run fine for a couple days then just start ruff idle then shut off.will not crank.then wait couple hours will crank back up.checked the intake and had oil on butterflies bad.my pcv valve bbroken will this make this happen to my truck.

4 people found this helpful.
170

http://dodgeram.info/Engine-Gas/OBDI/pcm_fault_code.htm check this website out. Your truck between 94-97 will tell you what is wrong with itself. When you turn it on and off do it kind of fast. Just told me my pick up coil is bad

17 people found this helpful.
70

My 96 dodge truck runs but when it get hot it run for a min did let it cold off it run good till it get how idk what to look at but need help bad

7 people found this helpful.
20

To solve you alls problems I replaced the pick up the coil the sincere between the transmission and still no start so I took the distributor cap only to turn it over and c if it was turning and it wasn't so that tells me the timing chain is not turning it so there you go take the cap off and look under the pick up and make shire it is turning but you need someone to turn the key to see if it is turning.

2 people found this helpful.
90

If ur still having trouble try to clean ac intake valve in back of the throttle body it has two t 20 screws in it make sure to take the o ring off before you spray with throttle body cleaner. My husbands truck did this over the weekend and we replaced all the above and finally found this on another site truck cranked right up and is running fine now

5 people found this helpful.
30

Hey, Same problem 97 Dodge 3500 Diesel Dually, 5.9. Aggravating, embarrassing, etc., but here was our fix. On a diesel motor, driver's side, there is fuel shut off solenoid switch that goes bad or the relay goes bad or the magnet or some part of it, but it hangs up and won't reopen the fuel intake to restart the truck after you turn the motor off. So until you get a new fuel shut off solenoid switch, you can manually reach your hand down and pull up on the little lever to reset the thing and truck should start right up. Be sure to turn the key on before you pull the button or lever or whatever you want to call it up and then start the truck before too long. If you happen to stall out, you can pop the clutch to restart or turn key forward again, but if you ever turn the key back, you will have to get out and pull the lever again. Always be sure to turn the key on before flipping the switch under the hood and you can stall out if you need to p/u at a drive thru and then without turning the key back you can restart without going thru the whole deal (FYI). My daughter and I have run my truck for almost two years like this, but I think I found the part today for under a fortune!!! Yeah!! I hope this helps somebody...even though my explanation is kind of jibberish, maybe someone can figure it out and explain it better. Have a good day all!! GypsyCrow and Sparkles

3 people found this helpful.
950

Some of these items and issues are based on fuel does or does not fire.. Simple solution to a few is the purge solenoid. It is attached to the driver side injector rail. If it stays close...pressure builds up and doesn't allow map to sense fuel air mix. Then fuel pump continues to pump fuel but not consume . this causes back pressure in tank. Fuel pump overheats and could cause fires. Also check plenium gasket. If oil is pooled in throttle body intake...plenium is shot. I have a severe problem with my 5.9... Can't find problem but all of YOUR answers have been given to me. So just passing some on.

2 people found this helpful.
80

I have a 1994 Dodge Ram 1500. It will turn over perfectly but not start. And if it does start it's really rough but won't run at all. I changed out the crankshaft position sensor, fuel pump, alternator, water pump, belts, battery. Still can't figure out what the deal is.

8 people found this helpful.
950

Okay...I have a 94 RAM 2500 SLT 5.9 Magnum. My truck would start idle and drive about 200 ft...then act like it was taking a crap on a crowded onramp. I went thru everything. Plugs, IAC, TPS, MAP, Cat, fuel pump, egr, purge, you name it. For a vehicle that won't start except with fluid or fuel thrown down her throat...MAP. For a vehicle that stutters and sputters when started but dies under throttle...IAC,TPS, MAP. Any one in combo. Change them all. That's under one hundred dollars. If...you have truck running...idles nice...then starts to crap out like mine did...air temp sensor. Mine is fixed. A $13.00 part kept me home for a month. Then...you might try the purge solenoid located on driver side top of intake near back of engine. The only other problem I can think of would be ...yup...fuel pump in tank. You must have 45psi to the rail for injectors. I also found that a failed fuel cap will mess with your purge solenoid. My truck runs perfectly. When you change all of this stuff but still don't get a code...remember...some of these parts don't throw a code. That is why the problem is hard to find. Clear the code block on PCM each time you goes through a test or change a module. The brain doesn't know what is wrong to begin with but it throws off s because something failed that is not in its data base. Purge solenoid and air temp sensor are two of them. Good luck.

5 people found this helpful.
60

I just worked on a 97 5.2 ram 1500 ...and yes I got that s.o.b to run again....basically I changed the cam sensor aka (pick up sensor) under the cap and rotor and the (computer) YES the computer.... what I found out before I started on it was ....the truck started in morning when I went to check it.....it ran than died after a few minutes ...started the second time and died again ....no check engine light so no codes....started trouble shooting ....fuel pump did not work but I had enough spark to start with starter fluid....so I changed fuel pump by lifting the truck bed..(best way to do it)since the fuses were good and relay was good....I should of put direct power to the fuel pump to check the old pump through the relay....but the fuel out of the pump was dirty gray almost black so it needed that any way...so new fuel pump and no start no power to fuel pump...and now it didn't start with starter fluid either...checked for spark and no spark and no power to the coil....these are crank sensor symptoms... Changed the crank and still nothing so I returned it lol...by the way is a little tricky to change it but a small 13 mm wrench did it for me, I had to get my arm behind the chassis and under the header while laying down behind the passenger tire...u will see what I mean if you try lol...enough for one day...next day I open the hood and touched the computer aka (ecu) aka (pcm) on the fire wall passenger side and it was hot to the touch ...unplugged the 3 connectors and with in 10 minutes it got cold....so went to pick and pull aka (junk yard) picked up the computer from a 99 5.2 Durango and the cam sensor under the distributor cap and came back home....while installing the cam sensor the cap broke so I went and bought new cap and rotor...installed it and the computer and still nothing BUT with the new computer I got the fuel pump power and also power to the coil but not outta the coil....so bought new coil came back installed it and no start...I had forgot to hook up the cam sensor and guess what connectors did not match ...I took it off cut the wires and got the old connector and matched the wires and put it back on....the s.o.b FIRED RIGHT UP!!!!side effects after the new computer from the Durango o/d light is on and tachometer was not working do not know if it might of been from the computer or if it was an existing problem...but is running good....conclusion I read that the cam sensor shorts out the computer so I didn't hook up new computer to old cam sensor...and also the lady told me AFTER the fact that they used jumper cables on her truck and the truck stared acting up and running rough after that day also I read that the heat from the engine breaks the mother board inside the computer....so what caused the problems is a mistery but everything I changed needed to be changed fuel pump $200 new ...computer and cam sensor from pick and pull $75 cap and rotor new $23 and coil $39....hope this helps some one...and good luck from Houston tx ...about 20 yrs mechanic and 1st time I ever change a computer on any vehicle....lol not bad ...

6 people found this helpful.
50

Your ecm is bad!!!

5 people found this helpful.
10

I had same problems as everyone else I have a 96 b2500 5.2 it us the computer or ecm if that helps change it and all should be fine. It runs great since I changed it. Been over 2 yes now.

1 people found this helpful.
30

my truck is doing the same thing one day it crunk fine and then now it just turns over and wont start. we tried starting fluid and sprayed the throttle body and the breather and nothing happened

3 people found this helpful.
10

My 1996 ram 1500 with a 360 has been randomly just not starting no rough idle nothing like that. Ill drive it for an hour park it go out the next morning and it wont fire. It will crank but not getting fire. I was almost late for work today because it wouldnt fire. When i got to work the ole lady texted and said she got it to start right up an hour later. I just had the fuel pump repaced less than a week ago not because of an issue the gas gauge wouldnt work. Someone tell me where to start been looking all over.

1 people found this helpful.
20

Your gas is probably bad. You need to drop your tank and clean it out. Or if your lucky, you could suck the fuel out of the tank with a hose the best you can, and then add new clean gas, with some gas inhanser ointment. Turn it over and mybe use some starting fluid to burn out the bad gas....... Then look what Jesus did.

2 people found this helpful.
10

ECM

1 people found this helpful.
40

Secondary ground located on the drivers cylinder head at the very back. This is where the computer, cam and crank get there grounds.

4 people found this helpful.
60

it's the torque converter control solenoid is shorting out. unplug it and it should start. it's setting off the emergency shut off relay

5 people found this helpful.
10

I had the same issue on my 97 ram 5.2. Engine cranks over and doesn't fire. Auto shut off wasn't allowing fuel pump to run and coil wouldn't energize so no spark. What I found is someone along the line probe'd the wires to aggressively and actually severed the wire just before the connector for the crank position sensor. Not the pigtail on the sensor but the on the actual wire harness. The wires are so short it is easiest to test there. And the first thing they tell you to do to test the wires for the crank sensor. I bet this is very common over the life of these trucks. Took me hours and hours to find. Probably another thing to check would be the cam shaft position sensor wires near the connector as the wires are to short on that also.

1 people found this helpful.
10

I had a problem years back. My truck would start just fine, idle just fine, I'd drive it for awhile and when it got up to a certain temp, it would die. I'd pull off the road and let it sit and cool down and it would start right up and run fine for awhile. then die again. It turned out to be the precoil under the distributor cap. Replaced it and problem solved.

1 people found this helpful.
2,415

AS FOR EVERYONE WHO HAS THIS ISSUE WITH YOUR TRUCK DYING AND WILL NOT START UP. PLEASE READ BELOW. I AM ABOUT TO EDUCATE EVEN THE SO CALLED PROFESSIONALS WHO CLAIM THEY KNOW IT ALL... I HAVE LOCATED THE MAIN PROBLEM. 1997 DODGE RAM 1500 5.9 LITER RWD/4WD "POWER DISTRIBUTION BOX" ALSO KNOWN AS THE FUSE BOX UNDER THE HOOD ON DRIVERS SIDE, HAS BEEN THE MAIN PROBLEM ALL ALONG.. I REPLACED ALL THE POWER DISTRIBUTION BOX ALONG WITH ALL THE BUSSMANN FUSES AND BATTERY TERMINAL FUSES & IGNITION RELAY,FUEL PUMP RELAY. "ALWAYS REMEMBER THIS" IF YOU HAVE AN ISSUE WITH YOUR CAR/TRUCK THAT WILL NOT START, STALLS WHEN YOU ARE DRIVING AND THEN WILL NOT START UP. DO NOT REPLACE ANYTHING UNTIL YOU TAKE A CLOSE LOOK AT YOUR POWER DISTRIBUTION BOX & RELAYS & FUSES. I KNOW THERE WILL BE MANY OF YOU WHO WILL AGREE AND SOME THAT WILL NOT. FIRST PLACE A "REAL MECHANIC OF 20 YEARS WOULD LOOK, WOULD BE THE POWER DISTRIBUTION BOX & CHECK ALL FUSES-RELAYS.

4 people found this helpful.
10

I have a 2001 Dodge ram 1500 with a 5.9 I have done numerous things to it just like crank senson ignition coil and nothing I can ground a spark plug wire to the frame and starts sometimes and not always and I also tried to ground the motor to the frame and no help but when I normally pull the ground wire off the battery and put it back on it doesn't seem like the ground is sparking at all but when I hear it crackle upon putting it back on it normally starts rotter bug is clean all good but it's like it has a mind of its own anyone got any suggestions only mode of transportation??????

1 people found this helpful.
10

Need input I'm at a loss makes no sense at all

90

My 99 1500 318 was running fine been a project for about 2 years got insurance and tag today but yesterday it dies so got crank sensor put on ran for about 5 mins then cut off so cut back on pump tire up it has a nail got back in be for I get in gear it dies turn over won't crank... didn't start till I put wiper and turn signal fuses in.. I live in country so done ran it up road pulled camper around yard live on a farm so not just a couple feet I'm talking half mile to mile never had a problem now after just putting 2 fuses in its craping crank sensors after about 10 mins

15

My 2001 Ram 1500 exhibited all of the symptoms listed in this thread. Started about 3 weeks ago with stalling at red lights and while idling, As time wore on, thing got worse, it would cough at speeds between 30 and 40 mph. Then when it stalled it became harder to start and eventually it would stall while driving . It always started until just a few days ago, so when it did not start I check for spark at the spark plugs and had none, so I replaced the coil. Still no spark at the plugs. Then, fortunately, I found this thread and the post by Braddy79 . Thank you Braddy79 ! I changed out the pick up sensor under the distributor cap and my old truck is running like new. This sensor started of with just the annoying symptoms until it became dangerous and went completely bad.

1 people found this helpful.
10

Cat is plugged had it happen on my 96 ram 5.9 gas would not start plus it would lose power

1 people found this helpful.
10

Replace the crank sensior

10

NON STARTING PROBLEM, OF 1986 DODGE D150, 5.2L, V8, AUTOMATIC, U.S. NAVY USE VEHICLE, ARE FUEL SYSTEM THAT HAS BROKEN SUCTION TUBE INSIDE THE FUEL TANK, AND LOOSE CONNECTION OF THE IGNITION WIRING BETWEEN, COIL, IGNITION MODULE, AND VOLTAGE REGULATOR, LOOSE CONTACT INSIDE THE WIRE COUPLER.

1 people found this helpful.
2,415

This is For Everyone Who has a 1992 Thru 2005 Dodge Ram 1500 Laramie/SLT with Any Motor Ok so you start your truck and after few minutes it dies and it wont start back up and at times it just will not start, Well Tonight i Finally Figured out whats causing THIS MASSIVE headache for Everyone out there. Under the Coil itself there itself its part of wiring harness, Inside i found that the guts have come lose enough that when you start your engine, The Vibration causes the coil connector plug to short out and causes your engine to die. Well i took apart the insides and used needle nose plyers to close the gap connectors. After i put everything back together My Ram Roared again. Drove her 25 miles not one problem at all. Kinda does suck when i dumped $8k into buying everything New and here it was just a Simple lose Ignition Coil Plugin connector. Here are 3 easy steps. Keep in mind you need 2 people to do this. 1. unplug coil connector and plug it back in 2. start the truck and while its running Wiggle the Coil connector that plugs in below coil. 3. After truck dies, unhook the battery before you disassemble inner connector plug. For those whos truck doesnt start at all. Check and wiggle the Connector that connects under your Ignition coil. Have 2 people to do this step. 1 to crank it over and 1 to Wiggle. ya i know that sounded funny right lol.

1 people found this helpful.

I've got a 96 Dodge ram 1500 4x4. It dies intermittently. May be 5 times a day or once a week or it may not happen for a month. When it dies only the oil pressure warning light will be lit. NO CHECK ENGINE LIGHT at all. I was able to get it started again but I would wiggle wires check relays and fuses and it would restart. If there is no check engine light on it will not start period! The starter spins the engine but it will not start up. When the check engine light reapers on the dash then and only then will it start. I've hooked my Snapon Ethos pro (scan tool) up to it and if there is no check engine light on the scan tool says it can NOT communicate with the ECM. I have not found the problem yet and I'm hoping someone may have had the same issue and could point me in the right direction.

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