if your truck cranks but will not start, what would be the problem?
STARTING PROBLEM I have a 2000 ford f150 5.4L the truck cranks but will not start some times. if i spray starter fliud into the booster in will start up. but other times the truck will start then just idle off. There is good fuel psi, just changed the fuel pump relay. the problem stop for a while then started again. So what would the problem be?
any check engine lights or codes found? I would start with adding fuel injection cleaner to the fuel, maybe clean throttle body, maf, egr and then change fuel filter cheap start and wont hurt.
no codes were found. when we turn the key back and fourth a couple of times it some times starts. but we put sea foam in it. i have changed the fuel filter the problem stop for a week or so then start doing it again
sound like something to do with the delivery of fuel or maybe a vacuum leak??... weak pump, dirty injectors, fuel regulator, hard to say without a code. there is a fat vacuum line on the back of a 5.4 that are known to dry rot and the truck wont run right or run depending on the hose. it goes to the intake, pcv and to something else but its on the back on the intake where the upper and lower intake meet. sry hope this helps...
can you hear fuel pump prime for 2 seconds when you turn key to run,should hear humming coming from fuel pump.if it dont hum or prime,it aint going to start.a dirty or clogged strainer on pump will make a pump work to hard and will kill it over time,maybe not just quit,but will go out over time.same with fuel filter,if it is dirty,fuel pump works harder.change fuel filter on frame once a year.i am having same problem.taking bed off mine today,to check if power to fuel pump.i have power to fp relay,power to inertia switch,power going out from inertia switch ,checking today if power from inertia switch is making it to fuel pump.mine does not prime at all now.i will report back with findings.2000 F-150 SUPERCAB 4.6L 303000 MILES.it has drove me crazy.remember vehicle has to have 3 things.SPARK,FUEL,AND AIR.
I just had no fuel pressure and crank but not start. Code reader said "error". Garages said I probably had bad fuel pump. Swapped relays and found PCM relay was bad. Replaced that and starts and runs great. Code reader "error" was a clue. No power to the computer, it can't read codes. No computer power is a major fault but can't be read by code.
im having the same problem with my neighbors truck 2004 f 150 its starts but then stops so I guess its the fuel pump. Haven't tried to put carb cleaner yet. Im pretty sure the fuel pump is going out . He said the truck was bucking like it was starving for fuel.
it was the fuel pump on mine.unhook tali light connector,pass. side rear bumper,unhook tag lights,remove gas cap and 3 screws inside that holds fuel filler tube,look underneath at filler tube,loosen clamp that holds filler tube to bed,slide it back a little,remove vent tube from bed,let it hang down.lift bed up over tires and bumper,and set on saw horses.fuel pump is looking st you in top of tank.i removed the lines,connector,6 screws,lifted assembly out.clean around this before you remove it,so crap don't fall in tank.the pump had a date on it,7-24-2000,thats when the truck was built.15 years and 303226 miles on the original pump from factory.i only replaced the pump,strainer,hose,clamps,and the tank seal.i have over 1000 miles on pump now.ordered from e-bay,$28.49 plus $12.00 for tank seal at oreillys.ford wanted $1150.00.you can get to the pump by removing bed on single cab,and extended cab,but not cre- cab,because the fuel pump on the crew cab is under back seat,have to drop tank for this one.
thanks for the info. I am a technician but never thought of taking the bed off. Im going to try it and let you know how it went.
there are 6 bolts,ford put these in at the factory,they are screwed into what is called a tee nut on the frame.it is a clip with a nut welded on the bottom.when they set the bed on the frame,a pneumatic press screws the bolts in,the nut is not threaded,it self taps the nut when bolt is screwed in,it is called a TP50,TORX PLUS,TORX HEAD SCREW.I GOT MY SCREWS OUT WITH A REGULAR T50 SOCKET.you will need to get under the truck and spray pb blaster on all 6 before taking them out,A MUST.let it soak a few hours and then spray again.i had trouble with one only,but kept turning back and forth,it finally came out.i used an 18 inch 1/2 inch braker bar to get mine out.just be carefull and don't strip the head on the bolt,or you will have to use a grinder to cut the head off.take your time,the bolt is rounded/flat head bolt.these bolts are $20.00 each at the dealer.if the truck is or has been up NORTH,where alot of salt is,they may be rusted pretty bad.if so spray a day ahead of removing a few times and let it sit over night.let me know how it goes.
here is the bed off of the truck.you will need 4 strong people.good luck
carefull when removing bed,and putting back on.put blankets and or cardboard on front of bed to keep from scratching up the cab.you can lift straight up,but the bed may want to tilt towards the cab,just be carefull.it is heavy,around 500 pounds,for short box.BE SURE TO REMOVE THE GAS CAP BEFORE REMOVING THE BED.
on the post i made about unhooking the tail light connector under the rear bumper of the truck on the pass.side,this was a TYPO error.it is on the drivers side,under the rear bumper.also there are a few good video's of how to do this.the filler hose and the evap hoses look like crap on the outside,but i talked to a ford guy,and he said ford puts some type of coating on the outside of hose,and it flakes off,but inside of hoses are good.when re-installing bed,eye-ball it real good to make sure its sitting on line-up tabs,move as needed to get it straight as you can,before tightening the 6 screws.
My 1998 f-150 died on me. I gave jumps, my mechanic says the brains is bad. I'm thinking its the PCM relay is bad. I had a jump start from a tow truck and he said I'm not getting any fuel
when you turn the switch to on,not start,you should hear the fuel pump prime for 2 seconds and then turn off.you should hear it prime every time you turn key to run,if it's not priming(humming in the tank)it ain't starting.you need to check the fuel pump fuse,then either check or replace the fuel pump relay.the pcm relay and the fuel pump relay work together.they are the same part number.also you need to check the inertia switch,on passenger side kick panel to make sure it is not tripped.if it is,no power will flow to the fuel pump.if it's tripped,the red button will pop up,just push it back down,you will hear it click when pushed down if tripped.don't go throwing parts and money at it.trouble- shoot it,may just be the fuse.but also possible relay,fuel pump,filter stopped up,pcm,which i doubt.relays are cheap,computers are not.post findings.
I got a 1999 f150 5.4L . It turns over but won't crank. I can tap the relay and the fuel pump stays on tap again it goes off. With the pump running it still won't start. When the pump is running it stays on all the time?
just like in post above.when you turn key to on,not start,the fuel pump fuse sends power to the fuel pump relay,from the relay to the inertia switch, then from inertia switch to the fuel pump,and the pump comes on for 2 seconds,and then shuts off.then when you turn key to start,the fuel pump comes back on when the pcm see's engine rpm,and stays on until you turn the truck off again.it sounds like the relay is sticking.if it's doing what you say by tapping on it.i would replace that relay and see what happens.no use to swap the pcm relay with the fuel pump relay,even though they are the same,because they work together.post findings.
II have a 1991 ford f150. I just replaced the fuel pump and I am still not getting any gas to motor. Engine cranks but will not start. Tried spraying starting fluid into throttle body while cranking engine, it tried to start but didn't. The fuel pump is turning on, I can hear it. The ignertia switch, according to auto store is good. I am at a loss here. Any ideas please...
I have a 2006 f150.. Yesterday I was driving and it suddenly died on me, after that it would idle but when gas is pressed it would die.. Now it won't even idle, I here the fuel pump buzzing. When I put my code reader on it won't power on, I checked fuses and they are good.. I just bought the truck, please help. Thank you all in advance
does the code reader display anything?you have to hook it up to the port,then turn the key switch to ON.is that the way you are doing it?if so check the fuse for the OBD PORT again.if the fuse is not blown,check the back of the OBD PORT for a loose or broken wire. also which engine do you have?post findings!
my old 92 ford f150 xlt had same gas sitting there for 9 long months.turned it over,constant clicking.changed all the bad gas out,added new gas (also added fuel injector cleaner $3),turned it over.after the 7th turn over it clicked constantly then attempted to start.After turning it over over and over,it would get better and better.after the 12th turn over,it started right up and ran better than it ever has! CHANGE OUT THE BAD GAS.
It was actually the mass airflow sensor, thanks for the input tho
keep that MAF clean least every 6 months.use ONLY MAF cleaner spray,NOTHING else.
Hello everyone.. I been reading all questions and man I need some help of my own. I have a 2002 Lincoln navigatior. 5.4L and out of no where it stop starting when I was about to go to work. I couldnt afford to take it in so it sat for a week. I have no check engine light on and a family friend came over on weekend had me buy brand new battery because mine was no good and cleaned the fuel connection. Well it started right back up. And he turned off and again started right back up. Well later that day I went to store and guess what it didn't turn on. I tried 6ti.es and nothing waited 5 minutes and it started. This morning went to check to see if it would start and it did. Afternoon as well. But 3 hours later went to start it again and nope won't start. Can someone please explain why my truck is doing this please.
can you hear the fuel pump turn on for 2 seconds,and then turn off when the key is first turned to ON,NOT START?
tinamarie-check your cable wire and clamps,especially the clamps. i once owned a 99 jeep cherokee laredo.it wouldnt start on night,kepted clicking and clicking as if a dead battery.battery posts and camps were very clean,corrosion free and on the post very tightly.all i did was tap on the clamp and moved it a notch,just a small notch.the jeep cem back on,started and off i went.those clamps,cable wires and posts are funky at times. try my idea,just nudge the clamp a little bit or re-tighten them
I have been having the same problem for 3 yrs now. Every winter or when it is cold my 2000 Expedition (5.4) sometimes usually in the morning, will not start. I know the fuel pump is not coming on and I know that I have to turn the Ignition on and off again and again until I hear the fuel pump come on. Then it starts right up. This year when I hear the fuel pump come on I start it and sometimes it runs for a few seconds and dies and sometimes it starts and runs fine. I really need to fix it but still not completely sure what it is.
Yep. mine did the same thing for a couple of years,very few times in a year.then the next year,it started doing it more frequently.what happens is the motor gets a flat spot in it from being started hundreds of times over the years,and when it cuts off in that flat spot,it won't start.then it will if you keep trying it.because the fuel pump motor moves off of that flat spot.every time you turn the key to ON,NOT START,the fuel pump comes on for 2 seconds and then cuts off,that primes your fuel lines.then when you turn key to crank it,when the computer sees RPM'S the fuel pump cuts back on and runs constantly until you turn the key off again.mine then started getting worse and worse.i got lucky,mine quit completely in my drive way at home!sometimes you can get a helper to tap on the bottom of the tank with a rubber mallet,in the fuel pump area while you try and start it and it will move off of the bad spot on the motor and will start.BUT take my word for it,or better yet,YOU CAN TAKE IT TO THE BANK,IT'S GONNA QUIT ON YOU SOMEWHERE,most likely not at home like mine did,then tow bill comes into play.here is the way it works.fuel pump fuse powers the fuel pump relay,then power from the relay to the inertia switch(behind passenger side kick panel)power from inertia switch to fuel pump.only ford,lincoln,mercury,mazda have the inertia switch(fuel pump safety cut off switch,in case it gets bumped hard,hit a curb hard or bad wreck.it trips the switch and cuts off the power to the fuel pump in case of a fire (little round red button pops up)to reset it,just push the button back down.only difference between mine and yours is i took the bed off rather than drop the tank,you can't do that,tank has to be dropped on yours.when you decide to do it,run the tank low on fuel so it will be light in weight when dropping it.mine had over 20 gallons in it when it went out.research on how to do this before you do it(some good youtube videos out there,so you'll be prepared with everything you need,including a helper on yours,relieving the fuel pressure,3 screws in the filler neck,REMOVE GAS CAP BEFORE DROPPING THE TANK,or you will break it off if left on.you will need an OEM/A/C and Fuel line disconnect tool set, Part Number: 25052 Price: $9.99 at Autozone.two different size lines on the fuel pump module,you can't hook it back up wrong.change your fuel filter also.i only changed the pump.the sender was fine.all it's for is to let you know how much fuel is in your tank.my truck and your EXPY takes the same exact pump.just be careful taking it out of the tank,don't bend the float arm.please DO NOT PUT AN AIRTEX PUMP BACK in there,JUNK!!most if not all of the parts houses are discontinuing the airtex and spectra pumps and now most are selling Delphi Pumps.i was shocked when i removed my pump.it was the original factory pump(had the date and ford part number stamped on it).my truck is a 2000 F150 4.6L Vin W Supercab.that pump lasted 15 years and 303,00 miles?if you have any questions,just reply back and i will try my best to answer them.there is a heat shield under/around your tank that comes off first.here is a picture of the pump that went out in my truck.until next time.Steve
another picture of the module before removing it.sticker on top for 15 years!!!!!
Those 5.4 tritons..i have 02 f150..5.4 out of the blue..click click...tightened starter wires..good for 3 day..again click click..reack thru over passenger tire pushed wires starts again..now if i leave it sit 3-4 hrs it will start..that hot wire laying on frame.i believe the coating to thin..i put piece of half inch foam pipe insulation over wire..starts fine now..thats why i think it was shorting thru wire coating...weid i know..but its fixed.
Hey Chucksf150,very good find!lots of folks would NEVER found that.the wire probably has been rubbing in that same place for years,and finally wore through the insulation just enough to short to ground!i have seen folks on other sites that said,well i'm going to take it to the dealer today.well when they found that,if they would have? probably would have told you it was several different problems @$120.00 an hour X 8 hours = $960.00?pat yourself on the back!! Very good troubleshooting! Steve
Alot of the new fords have a fuel module on the frame above the spare tire! These are factory sitting on the frame with salt and or moisture sits between the frame and module and it will crack !!! This happened on my 04 f150 4.6 58k miles!!! now my other 04 f150 5.4 185k miles, i just put a pump in and it wont start! i have 60 lb prime pressure. Think I should try the fuel and pcm relays?? 2 trucks same bullcrap in 6 months
that's the FPDM module! fuel pump driver module! Yep my 2000 F150 4.6L calls for that also,BUT it don't have one.my fuel pump just quit,got lucky,quit in the driveway.15 years and 303,000 miles on the original ford fuel pump(pump had the date stamped on it(7/24/2000,and the ford part number)!those 2 relays work together,so no use swapping them!if you have 60 PSI at the rail and no bleed down,then your fuel pump in the tank is working!are you 100% sure you have SPARK?
Steve, if no spark on all coils would fall to the brain of the truck correct
if no spark to any cop's,then suspect crankshaft position sensor!the engine has to provide RPM to the CKPS to signal the PCM to fire the injectors.do you know how to check the crank sensor?you will need a volt meter and a wire piercing tool.if you have neither,you could do what most would do,guess at it and put a new crankshaft position sensor on your truck.if you're going to do that and go aftermarket,then here is the one for your truck from Autozone.. 2004 Ford Truck F150 1/2 ton P/U 4WD 4.6L EFI 8cyl> >Duralast/Crankshaft Position Sensor, Part Number: SU256 >>Vehicle Specific> Duralast/Crankshaft Position Sensor> Price: $26.99> Part Number: SU256> Warranty: Limited Lifetime> Notes: Engine Crankshaft Position Sensor
Ok I changed the crank sensor and cam sensors , got a 5 second idle and then won't start again! Same as before ?? I'm going to pick it up with my loader by Monday lol! Any other ideas ?
do you have the PATS security system? try you spare key.it may be a bad chip in the key you are using now? also the antenna in the steering wheel will go bad sometimes.if the THEFT light is flashing,it ain't gonna start.let me know what you find out,and don't pick it up with your loader just yet!
I tried both keys and light does not flash when turning over!
So you are sure the inertia switch is not tripped?(fuel pump cut off switch)pass side kick panel.the FPDM is not bad(hole in the back side with circuit board showing where it mounts to frame? you can hear the fuel pump come on for 2 seconds and then cut off when key is turned to on,not start?you have 60 psi fuel pressure at the rail?now,you have NO SPARK to any of the 8 cop's,correct?you changed the crank and cam sensor? Reply back with answer to all above.be back about 1 hr,it's 6:45 pm on EAST COAST NOW,Charlotte,NC>>GO PANTHERS!!!.
Not tripped,FPDM is good (checked it with my other 04 f150), pump cycles 2 seconds, try to start and once a day I get a 5 second start then dies, 60 psi , no to little spark, changed crank and cam sensors!
http://troubleshootmyvehicle.com/ford/4.6L-5.4L/how-to-test-a-no- start-condition-1.................COPY AND PASTE THIS LINK AND READ THROUGH IT! DO THE TEST IT CALLS FOR...FIRST DID YOU CHANGE THE FUEL PUMP RELAY AND THE EFI RELAY? MAKE SURE THESE ARE WORKING!!!!!!
The fuel relay is built into the fuse box
under hood fuse box..should be relay number 301.the EFI relay should be number 304.they should just push in the relay socket and pull out. 2 square black relays.
Says in manual that it's built in fuse box use fuse 34 which is injectors!
This is the new body
s--t! 97-03 is the same,04 is when they changed! but all still works the same.i just pulled your fuse panel up.it says fuse #34 is the fuel pump fuse,powers fuel pump relay,PCM,and injectors,if i'm reading it correctly(picture is upside down?) .relay 203 is the PCM relay and relay 303 is the fuel pump relay.check to see if you are getting power going in to the coils,the plug part with key on?
also,has the check engine light been on any when it was running?
I'm getting fuel, it's for sure no spark. I put gas directly down the throttle body and it never hit. If the truck sits for a day I get the 5 second start up!
Only code that came up was P1184 oil temp sensor but the truck has started long enough with it being 30 here in northern ohio
have you read what that code means?copy and paste the link......... P1184 FORD - Engine Oil Temperature Out Of Self Test … www.autocodes.com/p1184_ford.html
Would this for sure stop this truck from firing, beings that it's a solenoid in the cam?
I went to auto zone and code said I wasn't getting enough fuel pressure. So I changed the fuel pump. Then my truck cranks with no start. So we changed the fuel pump relay and checked the fuse and it's all good. I'm checking the fuel pressure and it says I'm not getting anything, but when I turn my key I do get the hum for about 2 seconds. And my inertia switch has been checked and it wasn't ever tripped.
Ricky, what year and motor is your truck ?
99 f150 4.2 liter v6
how did the ZONE pull a code that TOLD you that you were not getting enough fuel pressure?the only way to know is a fuel pressure test gauge at the rail(schrader valve).probably nothing wrong with the old fuel pump.check the EFI relay.it works with the fuel pump relay.
what happens when starting fluid is sprayed in the throttle?does it run,then cut off?
The codes were saying gas was too lean and I told them all the sensors I recently changed and they had a list they printed off possible things and fuel filter was last thing on the list I didn't do yet. So we tested it and it had 15 psi
well 15 PSI ain't gonna work! should have changed the filter,instead of the fuel pump and maybe the regulator if guessing at it?pull the vacuum line off the regulator,if any signs of fuel in the line,the regulator is bad.
Filter was changed and we checked it and it's good.
good,and checked what? meaning it's running now?
No the filter was already checked. My regulator.. Do I have to take manifolds off to get to it? My truck still isn't running
My 03 Harley F150 w/ 5.4l shut off while driving normally also ...about 3 days after replacing pcv assy ...now does not even start gauges and gets no fuel, spray starting fluid it runs. Repair shop asked if I had a seperate key fob for the viper securiy system - I said no didnt even know it had that ...oh, after about 5 seconds gauges try to work but odometer then shows about 5 dashes like this - - - - - Help, already replaced dual fuel pumps, cheked standard key fob to standard security system, and replaced computer module, and checked front resistor, it felt like it was running on 7 cyl just before it quit, then 6 cyl, then nothing. Jess.email@example.com
first,is the security/theft light flashing or staying on steady?when you turn the key to ON,NOT START,the theft light should stay on steady for 3 seconds and then go out.also is your key the big square black key with the chip(PATS SYSTEM)in it? have you tried the spare key?also,you can't just replace the PCM without the vin number,mileage and the more programming by the dealer after the PCM is installed.there are SO many things to check,including the (BUTTON).the keys have to be reprogrammed also,when you replace the PCM!!reply back for more info.
My husband has a 2006 ford f150 that kept cranking but wouldn't start so I searched the internet and found someone who changed the FPDM. I called an auto store yesterday and found one. He took old one out that was corroded and rattled, put the new one in and it fired right up
Stevieray4 , just learning how to use cargurus, probably should have been in a different spot but appreciate yr help. I will drive out today n test the red security light and listen for fuel pump, tried second key; had a guy computer sync keys to standard security system after in tank dual fuel pumps shorted out and keys are ok square black
ok.reply back with the results.also what i said about the BUTTON.the INERTIA switch(fuel pump cut off switch) is a safety switch that will trip and cut off power to the fuel pump in case of wreck and a fire,or if you ran over a curb or been bumped.it is on the passenger side kick panel,red button in the top pops up.all you do is push it back down until it clicks.also the post above yours about the FPDM,(fuel pump driver module IS A COMMON PROBLEM on these trucks also.it is mounted on the frame rail above the spare tire.they rust out on the back and short the circuit board out.not sure if you have one,but i know 2004 and up does.my 2000 F150 list one at the parts house,but it don't have one!! i really don't think either one of these is your problem.i'm thinking ANTI-THEFT PROBLEM?
Just had this issue with my 2002 F250 4WD 5.4 V8. All my fuses and relays were good. Went to pull cam sensor, and water temp sensor... checked coils for voltage, found none with the key on. should show 12V at coil. Final analysis, in MY case, it turned out to be a three volt voltage drop at the positive battery terminal. I aborted the stock terminal, which was comprised of this terminal block with three red cables coming from it. one from alternator, one to starter, one to ....wherever. I replaced that with a honkin' aftermarket battery terminal, cleaning both pos and neg terminals on the battery. Truck fired right up. I'll post pics if I can figure out how....
good job! if only folks would take the time to check things like you did,instead of taking it to the STEALERSHIP!! good DIY.and i do see 1/2 of a battery terminal in your picture.amazing what a little voltage drop will do!!
it was enough (two volts) to allow the engine to crank, but not provide voltage to the coils. go figure!
Oh yes,i see the 2nd pic now.don't look to good.there is a fuseable link in that one red wire also.one of those red wires also goes to the starter solenoid mounted on the firewall also,one to the alternator,one to the solenoid,and one to the fuse box.very good find!!
now i see the 3rd picture! you would be amazed how many battery terminals i have seen with 10 times more GREEN CRAP(CORROSION) on them,and people say "i don't know what could be the problem"? well clean that CRAP off of there or replace it,like you did!!
Went to check truck and they sent it to another place with an electrical guru, I will let u know what he finds out
Oh,so it;s at the DEALER?
No, he said this guy is the guru that the dealers send it to when they dont know
10-4 on the guru! post what he finds,curious!maybe it's a security thing or cluster? just watch,won't be long,we won't be able to work on any of em!! i know one guy who paid $10,000.00 for a top notch scan tool with live data,that comes in very handy for him.he works for a Ford dealership(mostly does diesel work but will and does work on gas engines).the dealer gets $100.00 an hour,he works at home on the side for $25.00 an hour.....later.
Well, the electrical guru found that when JPC put in my engine the wireing harness was routed wrong and was too tight accross valve cover, when a small wire was rubbed and the was revved it would short out a coil over, then finally a bigger hot wire was rubbed and it shorted lots of things ....
so,working ok now,got it fixed?
Okay, so my f150 5.4 w/ 176000 miles has a tapping sound that has gotten worse. I have change my plugs and bad coils, Change oil on time, and just had a full engine diagnostics done. Nothing is wrong with anything internal. They said it sounds like valve chatter, maybe sludge built up. I also had po420-po430 codes a while back, I ran emissions cleaner in my gas and the CEL is gone. I know that doesnt mean my cars are good now. When I am at a constant speed and hit the gas it bogs down and jumps to accelerate. With over drive off, it does better. Maybe cause higher rpm?.. Im puzzled on How I can stop the tapping and fix the bogging issue
2003 f150 crew with 35000 miles (only owner). About 6 month ago would not start, called road service waited about an hour and tried it and it started. No problem for 3 months. Had same problem over a month ago at home, waited 45 minutes and it started. Last Sunday same problem. Flatbed it to Ford place for repairs. After 5 days and $1058.00, they had it fixed. Said it was the fuel pump..............
why didn't you post your problem before taking it to the dealer? mine did the same thing for almost a year! it didn't do it all the time,but it started getting worse but it would always start after a few tries.what happens is the fuel pump motor gets a flat spot in the windings,and only when it hit that flat spot,it would crank but NO START,meaning the fuel pump motor would not spin to pump fuel! i got up under mine several times and slapped the bottom of the fuel tank with a rubber mallet,while a helper was trying to start it.once it moved off the flat spot by tapping on the bottom of the tank,it would start up! the only difference between my extended cab and your crew cab is,i can take my bed off and the fuel pump is looking at you on top of the fuel tank.the crew cab,if you would have taken the bed off,it would NOT help you because on the crew cab, the fuel pump is under the back seat!!in other words you would have to drop your tank to replace your fuel pump!when i changed my fuel pump,it had the original factory fuel pump still in it with the date of 7/24/2000 stamped on it with the ford part number! it lasted 15 years and 303,000 miles.just changed it last Feb.2015.i found one on e-bay>a used one(FORD OEM)WHOLE FUEL PUMP MODULE ASSEMBLY for $29.99 plus tax at a JUNK YARD 15 miles from my house!!! a little testing when that happened to you,and you would have found the problem and fixed it yourself.fuel pressure test would have found it when it was acting up.when you turn the key to ON,NOT START,you will here the fuel pump prime(humm)FOR 2 SECONDS AND THEN CUT OFF.then when you turn the key to the crank position,when the computer sees an RPM signal from the engine,the fuel pump starts running again pumping fuel to the fuel rail and runs until you turn the key off again!!!when you turn the key to ON,you will hear a faint humm in the tank for 2 seconds while in a quiet environment.with key on,fuel pump fuse sends power to fuel pump relay,the fuel pump relay sends power to the inertia switch in the passenger side kick panel,the inertia switch sends power to the fuel pump!! i have all that info posted at the top of this page with pictures and detailed info that i posted about a year ago!!! hope you don't have to have that done again...ask questions before you pay all that money,that you really could have saved...
Check oil level. If level is low the level sensor breaks circuit to fuel pump and when oil drains back into the pan and covers the sensor the circuit is again complete and engine will start.
NO! sorry,not on a FORD!! only a blown fuel pump fuse,a bad fuel pump relay or a tripped inertia switch will break the circuit on a FORD!!! OR a dead short! I know a guy who has a 2000 F150 4.6L engine just like mine..it holds 6.5 Quarts of oil in the crankcase.i was standing right in front of the truck when the oil was checked. NOTHING was on the dipstick. he had to ADD 3.5 QUARTS of oil to bring it to full!!!it was not making any noise at all, when he got there. also the oil light never came on either! the fuel pump was running when he drove it there,and was running/working when he left,so NO,low oil level has nothing to do with breaking the fuel pump circuit when it's LOW on oil,period!
Stevieray4, I have the same engine as you, 2000 Ford F150 4.6L with about 175,000 miles on it. Out of the blue it died on the way home. we changed the fuel pump and still has the same issues.
was it in an accident,run over a curb,hit a pot hole? when you turn the key to ON,NOT START,can you hear the fuel pump prime inside the fuel tank for 2 seconds and then turns off? you have to listen carefully at the filler neck with the cap off,while helper turns key to ON! post results for more info...
Ok guys I habe the issue it seems a lot of you do. Still haven't seen any solutions.. So here's the deal. 2000 F 150 extended cab 4x4.. 4.6L Triton motor. The truck would not start after eating lunch one day tapped the tank a little bit and it started up.. Drove it back to work wouldn't start a few taps later it started... Fuel pump right!!! Changed the fuel pump and fuel filter made sure pump was pumping gas before I hooked the lines back up. Now it will not start. Have fuel out of pump have fuel pressure on the fuel rail. If I give it a shot of starting fluid it will fire up... Help please this is my work trick and it's costing me money.
Ok I need to see if anyone can help me figure this out.2000 F-150 4.2L. Replaced the fuel pump because the old one was not coming on. Still the same thing is happening (or isn't happening depends how you see it) Cranking but not turning over. Theft light is flashing, fuel pump is not starting (no humming and no fuel getting to the motor). Changed both PCM and FP relays, added oil because it was a little low and even tried to see if the screwdriver to the solenoid would work and still nothing is working. Was given to us after our vehicle got washed away in a flood so all I have are regular keys. Had the truck for about 10 months and now all of a sudden this happens. Any thoughts?
antenna bad to break next to the key switch inside on these fords..as long as the theft light is on or flashing,it ain't gonna do nothing!
Thanks Stevirray4 is there a fix or work around? Why all of a sudden would it stop while I was driving and why would it at up out of nowhere?
NO bypass for the PATS security,period!you have a chip in your key? well,i'm assuming you have the Transponder key?if so,there is no battery inside it to change, they never wear out(RFID).the ring or antenna are bad to break like i said earlier.Perhaps it might be something as simple as a disconnected antenna ring around the ignition cylinder? LET ME KNOW WHAT YOU FIND OR DON'T FIND.
No I have a regular key. As far as I know there isn't any ring that is broken.
My 2010 f150 ful reggerlater keep going bad
which engine? if a 4.6L,there are two diff ones for that year..what's the 8th digit of the vin number? you say the fuel pressure regulator KEEPS going bad? more than once?rail mounted regulator under the hood?
Thank you stevieray4, once i could see the fuse box with a fashlight i was able to find the inertia switch. Which tripped, apparently when i was banging in the plastic cover over the fuse box. Pushed button down and started right up. It all started when my radio died and i checked the 5 amp startup fuse, then had a hard time putting it back in. Installed new radio and back to normal, thanks again. kennywayne
glad to hear that..lots of folks don't know about the inertia switch that Ford,Lincoln.Mazda,Mercury etc. puts on all of their vehicles.many folks have had their vehicle towed to the DEALER,only to find out the "MAGIC BUTTON" has tripped!!! i stress on another site very much that all vehicle owners should have an owners manual and a repair manual if available(lots of info in them)..sometimes it don't take a lot to trip it like,running over a curb,in an accident(that's what it's for)it cuts power to the fuel pump in case of a fire,then pump can't still pump fuel..Happy Motoring!
2003 F-150 4.6L....starts just fine, while driving it bucks, when it finally warms up it hesitates and as the gas pedal it pushed it acts as if I took my foot off the pedal. I have changed the fuel filter, 65 psi at the rail, I have changed the Crank shaft positioning sensor (P0320 code came up, no other codes) still hesitates, coils are fine.
the 4.6L vin W engines are bad for vacuum leaks at the PCV valve,passenger side,in valve cover..the hose is only a few inches long and turns into mush and will suck flat.also where it goes around and hooks into the back of the intake,the rubber elbow splits,cracks,and will suck air.
My Ford ranger 2002 has been doing this for 18 months now.....Every four to six weeks, it will crank but not start....Sometimes it starts after five minutes, sometimes an hour, and has taken up to six hours, but eventually starts...Not very dependable tho...Fuel system has been checked out numerous times with no findings....Alarm system disabled, all pressures are good......Wish I had an answer...Fuel pump always engages even when no start occurs....
you have a transponder key(PATS Theft System) in your truck and it can not be bypassed. is the theft light staying on solid or flashing when you are trying to start the truck?
My 98 F150 4.4L v6 has a delayed start. The time of the delay depends on the temperature of the weather. When it's 80F or higher and I turn the key to on, I can hear the FP hum for about 6 seconds. Then the check engine light blinks one time, very fast. The blink is so fast, you have to be looking right at it or you miss the blink. Once it blinks, the truck starts perfect. As the temp. drops, the waiting time for the prime to complete takes longer. When it's 30F or lower, I need to turn the key on and wait for up to 20 minutes before the hum stops, CE light blinks, and the truck will start. Once it starts, the truck runs perfect, whether sitting in idle, or stomping on the gas peddle. Before the engine light blinks, it's a crank but no start. Out of the hundred or so "crank no start" situations I've read online, I haven't read any of them that say anything about an extended prime time that varies with temperature so I'm hoping by asking, someone will have experienced this and can shorten my trouble shooting experience. As a footnote, I bought the truck two years ago from the family of an old man that had died. The truck had 9k miles on it when I bought it so it had done a lot of sitting around. I now have 30k on it. The problem has existed since I bought it, but has gone from a 5 minute wait at 30F to a 20 minute wait. The truck has a recall on it due to corroding fuel tank straps and will be going to a dealer for that work in a week. They said they will charge $99 for a diagnosis. After hearing hearing stories about dealers even screwing FP problems up and charging k's of $ to replace them and it not being the problem, I would like to check everything else it could be, leaving FP replacement as the only thing it could be when I take it there, if I haven't solved the problem before then. Can you please tell me where to start Stevieray?
you have a 4.2L engine if 6 cyl.ok,one of two things are happening here,what i think it is anyways? the way that circuit works is when you turn the key to ON,NOT STARTING OR CRANK,the fuel pump fuse powers the fuel pump relay on..you should hear the pump prime(HUMM)for 2 seconds only and the pump cuts off,then when you crank it over to start it the fuel pump comes back on once the computer sees RPM signal from the engine and the pump stays running until you turn the key to off again.Temperature has no affect on what you described.when you turn the key on,the fuel pump fuse powers the fuel pump relay,relay to inertia switch,from inertia switch(passenger side kick panel) to fuel pump connector for 2 seconds and you will hear the relay click off after 2 seconds(not 4 seconds or 6 seconds,"2" seconds) as well as the humm from the pump in the tank.i think your fuel pump relay is sticking and making the pump have constant power until it releases from the contacts inside the relay.in the under hood fuse box is where the fuse and relays are.there are 2 relays exactly the same that work together.the fuel pump relay and the EFI relay,Part Number MR76 or 19273($15.99) at Autozone.they are both 5 blade relays. could be corroded under the relay where it plugs into the socket in the fuse box?don't let the dealer touch this problem,you and me gonna fix this! let them replace your straps,it's free! message me back on what you find.
my ole 2000 F150
Looks just like mine only difference is color mines gold and it just did the nostart 1st time today (ugggh) it dont sound good from what iv been reading.if it sits for couple hours it will start but when giving gas it dies (starving 4 fuel) and then back to just cranking it has the keybob and fat ignition key,checked fuses (nuthing)swapped relays (nuthing) checked pass,kick panel ( no reset popped) wiggled harnesses (nothing no changes ) im getting ready to ship this across US and wondering if its worth it ,IS THIS A ONGOING PROBLEM FOR F150S HELP
Ok,if it has the thick black key,then it has the (PATS) security system! the red theft light should blink every 2 seconds,whether the key is in the switch or not.when you put the key in the switch and turn it to ON,NOT START,the red theft light will come on,and stay on for about 3 seconds and go off. if it does not blink or stay on,then the theft part is ok! from what you said above,it sounds like your fuel pump is going out,and NO,it won't just go out,mine did this for almost a year,before it died in my driveway.if when yours will not start and you don't hear the fuel pump PRIME for 2 seconds when the key is turned to ON,it ain't gonna start,period.if this is your case,get a helper to hit on the bottom of the fuel tank with a dead blow(rubber hammer)while you try and start it.if it starts then you will know there is a flat spot in the fuel pump motor and the hit with the hammer moved it so it will work,until it hits that flat spot again..where are you located?
Sorry in Oregon and we got hit wit freezing rain last 2 days i just left the tru k after i wrote here ,i did vo back up and beat om the tank with rubber mallet and no sounds,when you turn the key on you can hear a slivht clickand hum. But not 2sec,long OH AND THE light gos out (security ) SO not thinking its this i forgot my start fluid so couldn't give the test and i did put a gallon and half gas in it just to see if tbe guage is off juzt picked this up for 1g thouvht i vot a decent deal i did order a fuelpu.p should be here in 4,5 days im thinki ng it just crapped out i did order a fuel pump and soon as it shows will get it in and keep the fingers crossed i will say those motors seem to move the f150 right down the road when running ,,Thanx for your help ill go back up after the ice and crap and see if the thing fires with the aid!
I think the theft light FLASHES, but I am not positive. I will check that the next time it does its trick. I got a new battery 11/17 and on 12/17, it wouldn't start for about 5 hours. Its 02/04/17 and it has not happened since. LOL. I just jinxed myself I know, but I will check for the theft light. I am in FL, I think my truck may have water damage. :(. Should I just get a rubber mallet?
hey Firewater23,,,if you spray it in the throttle body,have a helper,it dries up quickly.if it starts and runs for a few seconds and cuts off,then you will know it's fuel related(probably the pump)..a gallon ain't enough fuel,i don't let mine get to but only 1/4 tank,then i consider that empty and go fill it up!like i stated above,i just replaced the factory installed fuel pump last year,16 years and 303,000 miles! i went to the scrap yard and got the whole Motorcraft sender and pump for $29.99,been in a year now.if you have to put a pump in it,unless you have a crew cab,take the bed off and change it,it's right on top,and you don't get crap in face! 3 screws in the filler,6 screws in the bed(spray under on screws with pb blaster GOOD before you try and turn them,(TP50) TORX BIT,18-24 1/2 inch breaker bar,unplug 2 tag lights,unplug all tail lights under rear bumper on drivers side(one connector)disconnect vent tube from the bed,lay a couple blankets on the front of the bed so no scratches(it tries to tilt towards cab when lifting),remove the gas cap,push the filler tube to inside of bed,get 4 strong people,gotta lift over the tires and bumper,set it wherever,short bed is bout 500 lbs.put the gas cap back on filler.careful when pulling assembly out of tank,don't bend the float arm!clean around where the pump mounts before removing it!!!
Dawn,first, what kind of vehicle do you have? year,make,model,engine size please...
If the FP motor has a flat spot,(after reading all this, i believe that is my problem) will it eventually die completely? Just wondering how long i can use the rubber mallet trick. I have 100 miles towing on AAA, and of course i am not in a hurry to buy FP and labor;)...and because this is all confusing to me, I must ask, if i replace the FP, that would also replace the FP motor with the flat spot...it sounds kind of obvious, but 6yr olds know more about trucks than i do...thanks for your insight!!
Oh, I forgot to mention that it is a 2002 Ford Ranger 6cyl. its working now, but i checked and the FP primes for 2 seconds and theft light comes on for 3 sec and it starts right up....i will of course check these things the next time it happens....(i will have the rubber mallet in the truck from now on;) ..............................................................................here is my original post for background info: ''My Ford ranger 2002 has been doing this for 18 months now.....Every four to six weeks, it will crank but not start....Sometimes it starts after five minutes, sometimes an hour, and has taken up to six hours, but eventually starts...Not very dependable tho...Fuel system has been checked out numerous times with no findings....Alarm system disabled, all pressures are good......Wish I had an answer...Fuel pump always engages even when no start occurs....''
if you have the thick black keys,then they have a chip in them (PATS) Security System(Transponder keys),and can NOT be by-passed! there is not a battery in it..if your key and the ring(antenna)inside the steering column are not working/reading correctly,it will crank and not start,although the red theft light should be on steady or flashing when this happens.try your spare key,see what happens...
I have a 1998 F150 and i cant get it to start but it will crank over. i replaced the fuel pump fuse and it still wont start. What could be the problem, someone please help me.
when you turn the key to ON,NOT CRANKING,can you hear the fuel pump come on(HUMM) for 2 seconds and then it cuts off? also has the truck been in a fender bender,hit pot hole,ran over a curb or bumped by another vehicle?
My 2000 F150 4.6 - 169,000 just started the "crank - no start" then turn key again and immediately starts and runs just fine. 2 days in row this has happened.. Yesterday, it sat about 30 minutes between run okay for several miles, sit for 30 minutes, fail start on crank, then start on 2nd try and runs fine. Today it was about 6 hours between start okay, 6 hour sitting, then fail to start, 2nd key turn starts up okay and runs okay. NO DTC Codes / PATS light function - correct / No Accident or bump. Will check 2nd second FP prime run and pressure check tomorrow. Any info about checking the FPDM voltage in / out. And is this device just a fancy relay that is driven by the PCM ?
2nd key turn... for clarification, I was referring to same key being tried 2nd attempt in starting truck. :)
unless you have seen a FPDM on your truck,it don't have one! my 2000 F150 calls for one,if you look it up at a parts store or their web site. it will be mounted above the spare tire on the frame rail,i just don't think your truck has one,but if it does,just unbolt it,unhook electrical connector,and remove it.THEN look at the back of it where it mounts on the frame rail(you will know if it is bad,believe me,it will be rusted out and shorted on the circuit board,my 2000 f150 4.6L does not have one! i think they started using those in 03/04? are you sure that you are getting SPARK when it wont start? there are 2 relays in the under hood fuse box,relay 301 is the fuel pump relay,relay 304 is the Powertrain Control Module Relay..these two relays work together..have you changed them out?y truck did the same thing that yours is doing,slowly but got worse..it took the fuel pump that long to finally just quit.again,when this happens and you don't hear that fuel pump prime for two seconds,it ain't starting!
stevieray4, Thank you fore the info. Problem of not starting has not repeated today. I have read all your posts here in this threada nd they are very helpful. Will report back when I find out more. Thanks Again !
you're welcome! I'm curious to find out..please let me know findings.if you don't fix it soon,i'm gonna come and get that truck! Pretty color,Pretty truck,PERIOD!!! next time it cranks but don't start,get a helper and a rubber Mallet hammer,while one of you tries to start it,the other get under the truck,TAP on bottom of the tank near the filler tube towards the back seat a little..just keep tapping while trying to start,see what happens...
Took me 1 whole year to find this truck as its just what I was wanting at an okay price. 179K miles. Still starting okay. Question: ??? Is it possible to pull bed on this model to replace fuel pump ?? If not, possible to cut access hole in cab floor ??
stevieray4, I see in one of your previous posts that bed removal for fuel pump replacement is possible on my extended cab. I live on a very limited budget and this next 3 years I'll be in the back country sometimes 100 mile from a town. Question: ?? What about cutting an access door in bed for fuel pump replacement ??
i don't recommend cutting an access hole for the fuel pump removal! also it is very dangerous to be cutting an access panel,because it is right over top the fuel tank..gas fumes and sparks DON'T like each other,plus the fact that it looks like crap! regular cab,and extended cab,the bed can be taken off to access the fuel pump,BUT not a crew cab(full 4 door)because the fuel pump will be under the back seat on it,so the tank has to be dropped on it! taking the bed off is the best way! FIRST THING TO DO IS RELIEVE FUEL PRESSURE..pull the fuel pump fuse out,start truck,when it dies,try to start it again,if it starts,it will cut off again,try and start it again,it should not start..now you have relieved the fuel pressure,and ready to go to work on your truck! things you will need>>>Can of PB- Blaster,one Torx Plus TP50 socket to remove the 6 torx screws from the bed..spray PB Blaster under bed on screw threads one day ahead of doing the work and again a couple of hours before starting to take the screws out from the top,in the bed! one 18" 1/2 inch breaker bar(for the socket for leverage) remove the 6 screws working back and forth if they get tight while removing them,4 pretty strong people(one on each corner),remove the 3 screws where you put gas in at the filler tube,inside gas door,remove the gas cap,push the filler tube through the hole to the inside of the bed,get under the rear of the truck,remove the vent tube from the bed,leave it hanging from rear axle other end,look under inside of rear drivers side bumper,unplug the tail/brake/turn light connector(one connector),unplug the 2 tag light connectors,push tag light wires up inside of the bottom of the bed so they don't hang down,do the same with the other connector that stays on the bed,tail/turn.stop light connector under the bumper.all wear gloves,pick bed straight up over rear tires and over rear bumper(CAREFUL NOT TO LET FRONT OF BED TILT AND SCRATCH UP CAB) walk the bed straight back,i set mine on my concrete driveway on moving blankets folded up.you can set it on whatever is easy for you.put the gas cap back on the filler tube.Fuel Pump Module Assembly is right there on top of the tank..clean around it real good before taking it out of tank,with a tire brush,rags,nothing metal! you will need to take the two metal fuel lines off the top of the module,and will need this tool to disconnect the 2 connectors>>Part Number: 25052 at Autozone,$9.99..see youtube video on how to use them..the 2 lines are different sizes,so you can't screw up when pushing them back on! unplug fuel pump connector(MOUNTED ON RAIL) remove the 6 screws in top of unit,rock it gently to get loose,pull the unit from the tank,(CAREFUL WITH FLOAT ARM,BE GENTLE,DON'T BEND IT). once unit is out,cover the hole with a clean rag until ready to install new unit! now you can change just the pump or you can replace the whole module assembly,just don't buy from Autozone or Advance,they have JUNK fuel pumps! if just changing the pump,be sure and buy a new strainer also..O'Reilly's have Motorcraft fuel pump modules assembly for around $320.00 if wheelbase is 139" or 120"..if just pump only,less than $100.00.. make sure all is tight,FP connector plugged back up..before bed is set back on,put the fuel pump fuse back in.turn key to on,not crank for 10 seconds,turn key off,turn key to on again for 10 seconds,not crank,turn key off>do this 3 or 4 times to PRESSURIZE the fuel lines. you should hear the fuel pump prime for 2 seconds every time key is turned to on..start your truck now,should fire right up! there are a couple of line up tabs on the frame for when you set the bed back on(take the gas cap off now..once the bed is on,push the filler tube back through the hole....eyeball both sides and make sure it's straight on both sides before tightening the screws in the bed..reconnect everything you disconnected!!! good luck!!!
3 more pics coming..
2 more pics coming...
1 more picture coming...
WOW !!! Thanks, awesome instructions and feedback. Will post back what I find out and what I end up doing with own pics to share.
you're very welcome..i forgot to mention that the short beds we have on our supercab trucks weighs app 500 lbs..but it's not to bad when you have 4 pretty strong people helping..post results!!
did the crank, no start today for the first time since 12/17, although have not driven it much since then....Tried rubber mallet, still no start....came back 6 hrs later, no start, 12 hours later, no start. I think, like your situation, it has finally died in my driveway. Not sure if i hear it prime or not....theft lights doing what it is supposed to. When i turned it on, i thought i heard the fp for 2 seconds but on second try, i am not sure that i do....when i turn key on, it hear a 4 sec hum in the dash- front on truck, then a pause, then another 4 second hum in the dash which i think is what i normally hear.....Hard to tell if i actually hear the fp in the gas tank or not... at first i thought i heard the 2 second prime, but after trying to hear it a few more times, i think it has finally died...i was actually trying to take my husband to the nissan dealer, as the replaced his fuel pump today...hahaha.....not me thought, i will have it replaced in the next week ...............and then i think i am going to auto mechanics schools to learn the basics :).... will let you know stevie...thanks for all your input on this thread...No matter what the outcome, I have learned things and appreciate the info you have provided here!
you're welcome on the input.the sound that you are hearing in the dash is not actually in the dash! this is where a helper would come in real handy.if you lift the hood,open the fuse box is on the drivers side at the back towards the firewall.have helper turn the key to ON,NOT CRANK and listen..you should hear Relay #301 click open then click closed! this is also when you should hear the fuel pump in the tank Prime(HUMM)for 2 seconds and then turns the fuel pump off.that's what the clicking sound is doing,it opens the relay to give the fuel pump power for a couple of seconds and then clicks again(closes the contacts)and stops the power from going to the fuel pump connector! another thing,when you are trying to hear the fuel pump come on for 2 seconds.sit in drivers seat,roll up all windows,turn radio off,turn A/C-Heater blower off,no noise at all! turn key to ON,NOT CRANK, listen real good,you should hear it do this every time the key is turned on.OR,get helper,remove the gas cap,put your ear real close to where the nozzle goes in if you were pumping fuel at a gas station.have your helper turn the key to ON,and listen at the filler neck,you should hear it..repeat as many times as needed..the way this works is,fuel pump fuse powers the fuel pump relay,the fuel pump relay sends power to the inertia switch(fuel pump cut off switch in case of wreck,run over curb,a bump from another vehicle,a roll over..it's a safety switch that cuts the power off to the fuel pump in case of a fire)..if you're getting power from the inertia switch(located on passenger side behind the kick panel) to the fuel pump connector,and the truck don't start,then the fuel pump is BAD and needs replaced! you can replace your fuel pump in less than an hour and a 1/2(with 4 pretty strong people,one each corner) by taking the bed off,it's easy and beats crawling up under it and getting all that crap falling in your face laying on your back,and probably a full tank of gas,if so add bout 200 pounds to the weight of the tank dropping it down! let me know what you do!
stevieray4, I checked fuel pump pressure today and here are readings I got. Key On: 40 psig. Engine On: 30 psig, Rev 2,000 rpm = 32 psig. At Idle with vacuum off Fuel Pressure regulator = 40 psig. Truck has never had a lot of power but, can tow 2,000 pound travel trailer easily. MPG is around 18-20 on Highway (No trailer) but, gas hog around town. Are these pressures okay ? Thanks, Bobby
stevieray4, forgot to include. No Leakdown on when key is turned off. stays at 30 psig. If just key on and then key off. Pressure to fuel rail remains at 40 psig. No leakdown.
that sounds about right..i am going to send you this link,i want you to copy and paste it and read thru it,cause it's as accurate as accurate can get..let me know what you think...http://troubleshootmyvehicle.com/ford/4.6L-5.4L/how-to-test- the-fuel-pump-1
i don't think you have a fuel problem. i'm sending you another link for SPARK,so copy and paste this link also. could be the crank sensor.the engine computer has to see RPM before it turns the fuel pump back on after it primes,here is the link. Part 1 -How to Test a No Start Condition ( Ford 4.6L, 5.4L) troubleshootmyvehicle.com › Ford › 4.6L, 5.4L
stevieray4, Thanks for info on troubleshooting. Engine still starting okay. If it were either the crankshaft position sensors or camshaft position sensor, would it throw a code ? No Codes so far related to this problem. I did find that my PCV valve is sticking open and causing high idle in the morning. I temporarily plugged the PCV hose and Idle Air Motor stepdown is working properly. Still hunting issues. Will report when I find out what is cause of infrequent no-start situation.
it might and might not,but most of the time,yes..also the pcv valve on passenger side valve cover is a common problem on the 4.6L and the 5.4L engines.if you still have the factory pcv valve hose on there where it hooks to the valve,it turns to mush! the hose is only about 3 inches long from the valve to a metal pipe..it splits,sucks flat,and is junk,but you can't see that pipe cause it's covered with foam insulation,you have to cut it back a little,which i guess you may or may not already know,then it loops around and hooks into the top of the intake at rear of the engine(bad to leak there also)..you have to have 3 things,,Spark,Fuel,Air to make an engine run.if missing any one of the 3,it ain't gonna start and run.IDK....you can keep looking and i hope you find it,but that is a guessing thing..the only real way is a shop with a scan tool,but if you're like me,i don't have the funds for that! i do lots of researching and guessing,it's free on the net..let me know what you find..
Thanks, will you know what my researching and guessing proves to be true. Concerning the PCV, hose, tube ... yep. I knew about both ends being a source of leak. I also can not afford to have a shop work on my truck. Bobby
Oh,I can't either..been out of work for 5 plus years due to back injury and triple bypass open heart surgery.i research,look,listen,test,etc till i can find it. lots of the shops have a $10,00.00 scan tool and we have to pay for it they say,instead of guessing and buying parts we don't need,but i won't buy a part until i know for sure that is the problem! just like this famous ford digital odometer blackout. that drove me crazy,cause i couldn't see my miles. i smacked the crap out of my dash,bout beat it to death,until i researched it..found it on a ford forum site,step by step instructions with pictures! it's a cold solder joint in the cluster circuit board where the ribbon cable for the odometer hooks to, on the other side of the board.took my cluster out,brought it in the house,took it apart,remelted the joint,adding a little solder with my pencil type soldering iron to 9 pins,put it all together and back in the truck..has not blinked one time since. i did that at 289,000 miles i think? it now has 326,000 on the clock! i called FORD AFTER I fixed it.they said NO FIX,common problem on 97-03,and i have to take to them to put a new cluster in for $1200.00 and reprogram my PATS keys,or the truck won't start>$200.00 MORE? I STILL NEVER TOLD THEM I ALREADY FIXED IT FOR BOUT 5 CENTS WORTH OF SOLDER and a couple hours of my time!!! i fixed my power door locks with a small piece of tin foil,they would not work at all,now they work like they are on steroids! fixed the transmission indicator(it was off 1 gear,said reverse,but in park,put in drive,showed Neutral,etc,fixed it with 2 3 inch tie wraps.fixed the famous P0401 EGR IN.SUFF.FLOW CODE. found that on the same forum..took the throttle body off and you would not believe how bad those 2 EGR PORTS on the side of the throttle body were clogged with CARBON! it was caked in there so bad and hard as steel,had to drill some of it out,it was bad also in the 2 small holes in the top inside the throttle body. i called the dealer AFTER i did this,and they said $800.00 to fix it,still didn't tell them i fixed it either and that has been many ball games ago!!! LATER!
stevieray4, Thank you so much for info ! I very much appreciate it ! The first thing I fixed on my truck was the blanking digital odometer. Used same youtube video and fixed the cold solder joints. Worked ever since. Your Power Locks ! Help ! I have same problem. When I push the power door lock button on doors all it does it click and locks jiggle. Was this same problem your truck had and if so, how'd you fix it ? Is it possible I got a bad batch of gas ? My truck is now losing power and this all started after putting gas in my truck. I hope its not cats as it was fine one day and low power next day. No Codes at all !! Any help will be very much appreciated.
Yes,my locks were doing the same thing and this tin foil fix will fix it,like i said,they work like they are on steroids now,and i did mine several years ago.there are some videos out there where people drilled out all the rivets in the actuator and put self tapping screws back in to hold the two halves of the actuator together,but i didn't drill all of mine out..i just did enough of them to get the little motor out to take it apart,and put a zip tie around the actuator once i fixed the little tiny motor and put it back in the actuator,but you can do it either way.i went by this link and there are probably more videos/pictures out there now.>>http://www.fordf150.net/articles/idx.php/0/018/article/How -To-Fix-Failing-and-Sluggish-Power-Door-Locks.html...here is another link>>https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v- Lcle9TNiI..and another link>>www.youtube.com/watch? v=RWvJ03W2aDA...another link>>www.youtube.com/watch? v=sAIipFrUNw4..don't break the plastic tab on your actuator or you will have to buy a new one,bout $50.00..go to autozone.com,put your vehicle info in,look up door lock actuator,look at the picture,you will see the tab i'm talking about.it's where the actuator slides on and holds it inside the door panel.also,maybe it was/is bad gas,but start it up,put your hand at the tail pipe,feel lots of pressure coming out of there i hope. if just a little pressure or hardly any coming out,you know what that means,and it ain't spelled DOG either! the cat may or may not throw a code if clogged..let me know what you think about the videos and pictures,and exhaust pressure.
Stevieray4, Will attempt to repair door actuators next week and Thanks for detailed info and youtube links ! Yesterday, I hooked up my fuel pressure gauge and taped it to my windshield (after pulling my windshield wiper fuse). Then I drove around for 5 miles and my truck ran perfect. Lots of power. High RPM acceleration is Okay. Fuel pressure never went under 32 and went up to 40 pounds under acceleration. But the day before it had a loss of power. Cats should not be the problem; right ? Maybe a sticky EGR valve or still have the PCV valve coming. If that stuck open it could also lower power on load. Will let you know more as I find out. Thanks Again !
ok,the fuel pressure is good! if you feel lots of exhaust pressure coming out of the tail pipe,then the cats should be ok,unless the inside is broke loose and moving around,but if that happens,usually you will hear a loud knocking sound,so lets forget about the cats for now! EGR Valve>>go to Autozone and rent that little vacuum pump,Part Number: 27010,unless you have one..after driving the truck for a few minutes,engine running,pull the vacuum line off the EGR VALVE,put hose from pump on egr valve,apply a little pressure,if the engine stumbles or starts running rough,then the EGR valve is working correctly..if NO change in engine idle when vacuum is applied to the valve,then it needs either cleaned or replaced,or the EGR ports on the throttle body are clogged with carbon,and should set code P0401.but for now just check the valve,carbon is bad to build up inside of it where it bolts to the throttle body on the pintle(BLACK CRUD) and check/clean the egr valve exhaust tube also YOU MAY OR MAY NOT NEED A NEW EGR VALVE GASKET! Felpro Part Number: 70149@ $1.99!
Thanks. Lots of good points. I'll check EGR and Throttle body condition.
Roger that! i was shocked when i took mine off,it actually scared me,it was SO SO BAD CLOGGED(the 2 ports on the throttle body) but,for now just check the valve..OH,almost for got>>EGR Valve Pressure Sensor(DPFE Sensor) Part Number: SU2108 mounted under the plastic engine cover,has 2 small special heat resistance hoses hooked to it,one elect. connector going to the EGR tube,common to go out also..if you have the metal one,then it's the factory one still on there. new updated now is black or gray plastic. check those hoses for leaks..new updated hoses at the ZONE>Part Number: M40001 both hoses same pack,should be 2 different size hoses(one is a little bigger than the other in dia.) for $9.99.LATER.......................
Thanks for additional info on EGR valve and DPFE Sensor. I order parts from RockAuto.com and stay away from the cheap versions. Both Autozone & O'Rielly's suck as they don't even carry better quality parts at the stores. Just his month, I saved $140 at RockAuto.com over the Zone & O'R :) For Example: Oil Filer Cap $9 Duralast Autozone and it broke 2nd time I went to remove it. Gates Oil Filer Cap $2.50 and it is solid and works. Motorcraft Plugs at Autozone $45. $25 at Rockauto with shipping. Will update what I find out. Did not drive truck today.
You can't beat RockAuto's prices and even the shipping is cheap! I know all about Autozone,believe me,but i do use them as a reference for part numbers sometimes..the only thing i can say good that came from AZ that were put on my F150 right before i bought it in 2007 is the Duralast Gold Ceramic brake pads.I just changed em 2 months ago,got 83,000 miles out of em and very little dust,front and rear! 5 more miles,i will have 326,000 miles on my 2000 F150! I just took a picture of the Odometer when i came in bout an hour ago.have you ever changed the plugs in one of these 4.6L engines?
Wow- Lots of miles. I have the new plugs and have some PB Blaster . I have seen the videos about 1/4 turn back and forth + PB Blaster spray to get the plugs out. Any other concerns on the plug change out ? With 325K miles have you ever had to do anything with Phaser / Lifters on your truck ?
start with #1 on passenger side front,remove the COP coil screw,7mm or 9/32 socket(i think),don't drop that screw,twist gently and pull up/out.NOW>blow the plug well out REAL good before removing any plugs,use small mirror/flashlight to look in there! i used black electrical tape and taped my socket to the extension(so socket won't stay in there when plug is snugged up)crack open bout 1/8 or just a little,spray PB in there,let it sit,move to #2,same thing,go back to #1,tighten a little,the try and loosen,if it gets tight,go the other way,back and forth ,until loose. use SP-432 MOTORCRAFT PLUGS,.052-.056, i DIDN'T use any Anti-Seize on any plugs(they have special coating on them already)! start all plugs with a piece of rubber fuel hose(do not cross thread Aluminum Head) put a little dab of dielectric grease in the end of the coil boot with a Q-tip..#4,#7,#8 are the tough ones,but doable. AND NO,never done anything to my engine! knock on wood!
Thank you for COP pulling cautions. I have always used the rubber hose trick on any plugs I can not physical see to fist start them. Glad that your truck has held up. I only need about 20K miles & 3 years then I am fully retired and have money coming in for more repairs. Glad your truck has held up so Great !!
I have NO doubt at all that your truck with the 4.6L vin W engine will last way longer than you think! a guy i know owns a pretty nice shop with several mechanic's and he is a Chevy Person,but he brags on these Triton engines and says they are very good engines! even the County Police here brag on em,the 2000 and 2001 years,just like our engines! ok,the plugs are down inside there pretty far..passenger side from front to rear is 1,2,3,4..drivers side from front to rear is 5,6,7,8... you will need a combination of extensions,a couple of each >6",3" and a swivel for the rear ones on each side,#4,#7,#8. All the plugs,and coils can be removed and installed without taking the fuel rail off,and i didn't put a torque wrench on em,i just snugged them down good!
Got a new fuel pump after it not starting for a week...Crazy thing is -it started up one time two hours before the pump was changed, after not starting for a week and no sound from fuel pump!!! Anyway, so far so good, but the day before yesterday, no blinkers at all..worked once time since but currently not working (new problem)........................And I too have a passenger side window problem and driver side door lock problem (not a new problem)....Tin foil??
1.. Your fuel pump was bad, and it was probably the one from the factory ,mine was.2.. Yes,the tin foil trick works. someone just showed me theirs yesterday and i told him about the tin foil,he said he was going to do it,after i showed him how mine were working(HE SAID DAMNNNNNNNNNNNN)! he pushed his unlock button,the button just sit there doing the wiggle thingy,and did not pop up to unlock either door. i didn't drill the rivets out of my actuator,i just took a screwdriver and slid it in between the two sides of the actuator and separated the two sides,that will break the rivets out.. i didn't make two halves from mine,i just popped it open enough to get the little motor out,BUT either way will work,just pay attention on how everything is in there,and DON'T turn it upside down,and make sure all goes back like it came out(see links above that i posted or just Google it) tin foil has nothing to do with your window? what's wrong with the window? blinkers not working where? on the panel? front? rear? can you hear it clicking when left or right signal is turned on? Hazards working?
Stevieray4, Still have not repeated the no start syndrome. My battery terminal clamps (OEM Ford) appeared okay on outside but, after dissecting them, I found clamps were very badly corrided and 1" down each cable pure white coating. I cut off the corroded cable and installed new terminals. Previous post above discussed a not start problem because of lack of voltage to computer during cranking. (Maybe this was the problem). I drove for 3 days with fuel pressure gauge taped to my windshield and pressure was always between 32-40 psig. I installed a new steel PCV valve and back manifold rubber boot. The new PCV Valve reduced my start RPM from 2000 to 1600/1700 on cold start.
Most people would not of found that,and i have seen them pure white the entire length of the cables,but it's rare and glad you found yours.most of the time that will cause a no crank,no start condition.Oh yes,if the computer does not see the correct voltage,then the computer gets real stupid,but smart and tries to compensate for low voltage! Well i hope that ends your Gremlins and they are gone and don't know the way back!
Today, my truck died coming to a stop just before getting on the highway but, engine started right back up. I took off the fuel pressure gauge yesterday; errrgg. I don't think its a fuel issue. It acted like possibly the Idle Air Control Motor closed and killed the engine. ? Is this possible ? Checked Codes 2 minutes after stalled engine and NO DTC CODES set.
Since I got the fuel pump replaced a week ago, the blinkers work only sporadically. Just went and checked them and they are working fine as are the hazards. I will take it back to my uncle who changed the fuel pump and have him check as soon as i can get it over there..... My passenger window has not worked in over two years. Driver side window works..........If I hit the lock doors button on my door or on my key, only the passenger side works. It has been this way for a year or so. I have to manually lock and unlock the driver's side door, as the buttons on the key or door do not work.....thanks again stevieray :)
Oh yeah, and when the blinkers are not working (didn't check the hazards then) there was no clicking, no sound at all...it did nothing, both right and left side...
Tenac1>>>check your multifunction switch connections if you have tilt steering or move the steering wheel to a different position,see what happens.also sometimes the wires get pulled and then a wire may be shorting or maybe starting to break,and could also be the multifunction switch going bad or the flasher under the dash? as far as the door locks,either do the tin foil trick or replace the actuator,i chose the tin foil verses $$$! the fuel pump won't affect this turn/hazard thing in any way,not related.
revbobby>>to bad you removed it a day early,but anyways..it could be the IAC Valve acting up and or a vacuum leak? intake leaks are bad on these trucks..the IAC Valve is easy to take off and look inside to see if it's black in there,and can be cleaned..2 screws,one electrical connector. unhook the negative battery terminal,so the computer resets and will relearn idle again if cleaning or replacing it.
2003 f150 will start some times just have to what 5 2 20 mins some times long an will start but now won't start
First thing! When you turn the key to ON,NOT CRANKING,can you hear the fuel pump in the tank come on and prime> (HUMM-BUZZ) for 2 seconds and then it turns off? i can hear mine from sitting in the truck with the windows up,no noise>no radio,no blower motor,etc. needs to be quiet to hear it! or get a helper,remove the gas cap,put ear next to where you put gas in filler tube,have helper cycle the key to ON,listen there,see what happens? reply back with results for more info.one more thing,when it wont start,is the red theft light on or flashing when trying to start it? when key is turned on,theft light will come on for 3 seconds and go off..if different than what i stated,reply with results on this also...
Today I received IAC and EGR gaskets so I will cleaning both this week. there is also a "Run Circuit Relay", could this be a problem too ? I have not had any problems in several days.
never seen or had a problem with that on any Ford Pick-up.
2 weeks ago my 97 Ford Ranger would not start. Cranked but would not start. Had to get it towed home (of course I was out of town). Next morning hubby went to work on it and it started right up. Changed the fuel filter anyway as he had already purchased it. Started right up, better than it had before the crank/no start issue. Drove it to work Monday - Thursday, started fine. Went out after work on Thursday and did the same - crank but would not start. Hubby came and picked me up and left truck at work overnight. Next morning he brought me to work and tried starting it and it started right up. After work it started right up again and I drove it home. Fast forward to this week, drove it to work Monday no problem. Went out to go home Monday and it started but immediately died. Then did the crank but not start problem again. Hubby drove me to work Tuesday and after work I tried starting it again. Started, immediately died and did the crank no start again. I have been researching online to try and figure out what to try next as I don't have money for the shop. In different forums with this same problem I get all these possible solutions/things to try: PCM Relay Fuel pump relay crank position sensor fuel pump driver module eec relay fuse inertia switch fuel pump relay Can someone help? What order should we check these things in? My fuel pump is working fine - I can hear it engage. Thanks!
1997 ford ranger>2.3L,3.0L,4.0L? regular cab,extended cab? your truck does not have a FPDM.(FUEL PUMP DRIVER MODULE)if the inertia switch was tripped,it would not ever start running. that switch is a safety switch(fuel pump cut off switch))in case you are in an accident,it trips it cuts the power OFF going to the fuel pump and will not start the truck again until it is manually reset by you,by pushing the red button back down,so mark those two off the list! you said your fuel pump is working fine? can you hear it come on when it don't start?if i were to guess at your problem,since i have already been down that road,i would guess your fuel pump is going out,but we don't want to be guessing and throwing parts and $$$$$ at it! the way this works is,when you turn the key to on,the fuel pump fuse energizes the fuel pump relay,the fuel pump relay sends power to the inertia switch,the inertia switch sends power to the fuel pump connector that plugs into the fuel pump module on the fuel tank.now with that being said,you need these things before the truck will start,and TESTING MUST be done to determine what you are missing..you have to have SPARK,FUEL/AIR,and COMPRESSION..if missing any one of those,it will not start.you will need a fuel pressure tester to see the PSI reading on it.
Sorry, I don't know the engine size but it is a regular cab. I will read your reply to my husband and see how it goes. I have literally been all over the internet and watched a youtube video by jimthecarguy who was working on a ranger with the same problem and it was a bad inertia switch that caused the problem. We disconnected it to replace the fuel filter so my husband was thinking it could possibly be faulty? That is why it was on the list. And yes, you can hear the fuel pump engage when the key is turned to the on position.
ok,when you need to replace the fuel filter,just pull the fuel pump fuse out! crank/start the truck,it will die,turn the key off,start the truck again,it will die.repeat one more time,if it starts,it will die..now the fuel pressure is relieved(NO FUEL PRESSURE NOW) change the filter.once the new filter is on,cycle the key to on for 5 seconds,turn the key to off. repeat this 4 times,now the fuel pump primed the fuel line and should start. if you can hear the fuel pump HUMM/PRIME/RUN,it is not the INERTIA SWITCH. if that switch is bad,you WILL NOT hear the fuel pump run,because it has no power from the inertia switch,IF BAD! if you can't reach the fuel pump connector on top of the fuel tank to test voltage,then take the bed off of it. i took mine off my 2000 F-150 not long ago to replace my pump and it weighs around 500 lbs,yours won't be nothing to take off 4 people,one each corner(if you need instructions,i can give them to you)..it is very,very rare for the inertia switch to go bad,but when they do go bad,they don't work sometimes. that switch is not your problem.what happens when you spray carb cleaner or starting fluid in the throttle body? does it start,run,then cuts off? post results here from that and volt meter readings from the fuel pump connector...DC VOLTAGE...
Ok, gotcha! So not the switch. He will check the power to voltage to the fuel pump this weekend when I am able to get it home. Directions to take the bed off would be very helpful, thanks! I will let you know how it goes. Do you know if the pump is inside the tank? And I will have him try the starting fluid too. He said it is fuel injected so that wouldn't work, but I told him I saw someone on youtube spray it somewhere in the air intake? And it worked for them so he thought that would work. Just haven't had time to work on it at all yet as it is still at my job and he can't work on it here. We will have it towed home Saturday if we can't get it to start. Thanks for all your help!
I'm am not the expert here but, I can help with your questions: (A) Removing Bed for 96 Ranger / fuel pump replace video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q1fZEDI7PXM . (B) Fuel pump is in the fuel tank. (C) Starting fluid is shot in to throttle body. Hold Throttle down and 2 second blast of starting fluid and then crank engine. If engine starts like it wants to run for a second or two the Ignition is okay and most likely fuel issue. Stevieray4 is expert here and he has helped me a lot.
Here is another Ranger Fuel Pump bed removal video. In this one the guy jacks up his truck, removes tires and uses 2 long 4"x4" timbers to slide bed back so he could replace his fuel pump. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1BF4C5bbKNE
Thanks! I will share these with my husband.
Dis5150, let us know what you find out.
Stevieray4, I finally got around to cleaning the IAC valve and replaced plugs. OMG ! What a pain the plugs were. I found a snail and a small rock in 2 of the plug wells. I used an inspection mirror and flash light to see all was clean before pulling plugs.. Cylinder 7 & 8 were the worst because of the Fuel pressure regulator and fuel line connectors but, I got it done. Now I got a new problem as I have a lot more power. Now the engine revs too fast when I goose it. Is there a way to keep RPMs below 4,000 ? (other than not goosing it :) ) looking for a rev limiter solution of some kind. The truck has 170K on it and a little lower end tick when it first starts up 1st time each day.
you are saying it's idling at 4000 RPM's?
just from changing the plugs,you now idle at 4000?
Omg I have similar issues above, after 2 secs hear the pump. Replaced a battery, cleaned connections, have a new fuel pump, just did a tune up and oil change ...what can it be ?...it starts eventually after several tries. One thing I notice it hestitates when idling at times.
any codes? explain exactly what is going on with your truck. what year? 4.6L?
Stevieray4, sorry for bad question on RPM. It was a rough day changing these plugs. No, not idling at 4,000.. Before the plug change my truck was a dog and bogged a lot going up hills. Cylinder 4 spark plug look like it had been in the engine a lot longer than the other plugs. Now, after the new plugs, when I push the gas pedal to the floor, transmission downshifts as normal but, the RPMs go super fast over 4,000 and I have to back off the throttle witch makes it upshift a gear. It has a lot more power with new plugs. Is there a way to check the Throttle position sensor (Ohms resistance). Maybe the TPS is causing the transmission to shift late (stay longer in lower gear than normal) under full throttle.
try this link>>>http://easyautodiagnostics.com/ford/4.6L-5.4L/tps- diagnostic-tests-1..let me know...
stevieray4, Thanks. I'll check it out tomorrow.
I have similar issues above on 2010 f150 4.6l after 2 secs hear the pump and fails to start intermittently, 8 times in past month. So far, I replaced the battery, cleaned all connections, have a new fuel pump install with regulator built inside pump, just did a tune up plugs and boot and did a recent oil change. Add fuel injector cleaner to last 2 fuel ups...what can it be ? One thing I noticed the rpm drop to 4000 when idling at times. Further noticed the gauges after turn vehicle off bounce after 30 secs once when off. Any help would be appreciated. We found no error codes-no engine light issues.
Hi GuruXHHY, The bouncing gauge 30 seconds after turn off sounds like power loss to the cluster. The cluster is also tied in to the anti-theft (PATS) system. Did you notice if while cranking the engine if the the "Anti Theft" was still blinking ? Was the no start immediately only on first turn of key and then it started on 2nd turn of key ? I assume your drop to 4000 at idle in your question should be 400 RPM at idle. It sounds like there could be 2 or more problems. Cluster gauge bounce is most likely not related to the no start immediately unless the gauges bounce during starting attempt. Have you verified the fuel pump pressure at the fuel rail test point ? Did you verify the original fuel pressure regulator is not loosing pressure ? As mentioned in posts above, there are relays that can cause a no start situation: Fuel Pump Relay & PCM Relay are the 2 most often failed. Also, the Crankshaft Sensor fails or bad connection or contamination can cause a no start immediately too. If you inspect this connector (I had to take off my fan Belt self tensioner to get to my crankshaft sensor) make sure to put dielectric grease inside the connect it to keep contamination out. The Mass Air Flow sensor can also do this and this sensor seems to fail most of the time do to heat or on a hot day. You would think that a code would be set for either of these 2 sensors but, a lot of people say they don't find codes set. The crankshaft sensor is not too expensive but, the MAF sensor is very costly. They make MAF cleaning spray and I always use it before replacing a MAF sensor on any vehicle. When you replaced the battery did you check the cable ends at the battery. If they are the original cables the copper wire near the terminals but, under the cable insulation corrodes enough to cause problems with current getting to the PCM. The problem on my 2000 f150 4.6 is 2 cables at the crimped battery terminal. The cable that went to the started conducted lots of current but, the cable going to the power distribution box (PCM power source) was corroded. The corrosion was not too far in to the cable. I was able to cut back 2" of cable where there was no corrosion and install two new battery terminal clamps. The idle drop to 400 RPM could be that your Idle Air Control valve needs to be cleaned. or/and the throttle body butterfly valve and closing are is carboned up and needs cleaned. The EGR valve can also cause a idle drop too. Hope this is helpful. My vehicle as not repeated the "no start" / "Stall while coming to a stop" for a few weeks now. Let us know what you find out.
Revbobby Thank you for your well detailed replied! I will keep an eye on the anti theft light next time this happens. The cable ends to the battery were good below the instillation, only knew this bc the Ford unsealed battery was leaking and replaced with a sealed battery and checked the cables. The no start/ too finally starting is sporadic, sometimes the 2nd try starts other times it takes a dozen attempts over 30 mins. The fuel pressure prior was good on the old pump but gauge we used wasn't reliable but fuel was at inlet oddly other times it wasn't ....so we decided given symptoms of a pump issue to replace filter and pump. Ford said the relay is inside the pump. So will look into pcm relay which has given me problems in past and recently reprogrammed 6 months ago. Will look into crankshaft sensor and MAF. Did have MAF problems in past also that required cleaning. Will also check idle air control valve and throttle body butterfly for cleaning needs. Your help is most appreciated!
So, yesterday truck wouldn't start again. This time noticed no fuel running thru line and pump not engaging. Was like, go figure the new replacement fuel pump is bad or clog in the line. Out of desperation for an easier fix, swapped out the fuel relay fuse with the air blower relay fuse and BINGO truck started right up! Picked up a new relay fuse ...however, I left the bad fuse relay in the air blower slot hoping that fails and confirms it was the fuse relay before putting the new one in. Fingers crossed!
GuruXHHY, glad to read you have found the problem. I installed a new Fuel Pump Relay and put the old one in my Trailer Charge wire Relay Slot. I'm hoping a flaky relay is my problem too.
that relay should click twice when working correctly.that was the first thing i replaced when mine went screwy.on the 97-03,there are 2 relays only that are the same in the under hood fuse box>EFI RELAY and FUEL PUMP RELAY,but you can't swap those two,because they work together.i replaced both,but it was my 16 year old factory pump with 303,000 miles on it hitting the bad spot in the little motor.bang on the bottom of the tank with a helper cranking it,fired up,but soon that quit working also,went out in my driveway. good luck with it...
Well it's Friday... and like the past 3 fridays truck won't start first thing in the morning. I switched fuel relays with AC blower hoping that would work which it did until today. So that didn't work. Turns that per a friend of a friend who works at ford. Fuse #27 been having problems and ford even has a quick fix kit for it. Well pulled # 27 and it was burnt beyond recognition. Pulled the tow package use which was similar amp. Once again bingo! Starts right up! I also noticed my rpm issue is now gone. Once again crossing fingers will place the fuse swap kit on and see what happens hopefully nothing bad next Friday... it's my wedding day.
well.hopefully you found it today on GOOD FRIDAY! i think your truck is newer than my 2000,oh i see it now,it's a 2010 year model. i looked in my owners manual and fuse 27 which is the inside fuse box is the fog lamp fuse on mine,which i don't have them.for some reason,now i am having an idle problem.cleaned the IAC VALVE,NO HELP. i put a new one on at 289,000 miles,so now it's got 328,000 on it.so that's around 40,000 on it,and it was clean when i cleaned it the other day? i'm gonna check it over tomorrow.it does fine when moving,but when i come to a stop,it stumbles on me,idles down to around 300 RPM or so and has cut off on me a few times.it's ALWAYS idled at 750 RPM in park,then 600 RPM in drive and still does,but after i leave and coming to a stop it bounces from around 700 to 300,might cut off,might not,might even idle back up? can't find not one vacuum leak,sprayed everything with starting fluid,no change,NO CODES SET? probably gonna take the throttle body off tomorrow.i had to take it off around 45,000 miles ago! EGR PORTS,COMPLETELY CLOGGED UP,BOTH! it was so so so bad,i had to dig the carbon out of the ports with a pick,screwdriver,drill bit,but that P0401 has not returned! will update as soon as i find it! Happy Motoring...
Totally agree, common it's Good Friday! Your idle issues are identically to my 2010 f150.. When I changed fuse 27 it was great ...for an hour :( Fuse 27 is the fuel system fuse a 20 amp. So now I decide to put the new fuel relay fuse in, put a new 20amp in #27...and will next week do the relocation kit for #27. However, now the idling issue started again...I ll need to check those ERG ports. The throttle body was very clean when I checked the other day. Still no codes on mine. Like you said...happy monitoring!
Roger that! ok,your throttle body was very clean just by looking into the part where the buuterfly part is,so is mine,but if it is getting clogged,you should get a P0401 code,EGR insuff. flow detected.you need to google that code for your truck or mine.you will know when you find the right page.here is an 01 Expedition,check it out,mine was worse than this one was! 2001 FORD EGR CLOG CODE P0401 - YouTube www.youtube.com/watch?v=G6wVAwQzdf0...Later
stevieray, Made a 250 mile trip today with no issues at all. It has not acted up for almost a month now. I did change the Fuel Pump relay; cleaned the IAC; Cleaned the Throttle body butterfly. Still need to clean EGR valve. Have replacement pump on hand just in case. Hoping it does not act up while I am camping. Thanks for all your help and Thank You ! for helping others. !
you're welcome! very good! hopefully your gremlins are gone for good. glad to hear it..i'm chasing an idle problem right now on mine..seemed to do ok yesterday,with an IAC Valve cleaning and a couple shots of WD-40 in it. i'm going to pull a couple plugs and coils,see what they look like...Later
I cant read the some of the answers so im in the same boat... What should i do.. Please help me
Trish Not sure what your exact problem is but I can tell u the issue with failure to start at times was resolved by replacing and relocating the fuse #27 which is for fuel system. Ford is aware this is overheating / burning out the fuse box at position #27 and causing periodic start up failure. They even offer a relocation kit thru ford.
Trish..What are you having a problem with? Year,make,model? Describe what your problem(s)are.depending on the year,it could be a few things,including what GuruXHHY included in their answer,but could be the fuel pump fuse,relay,inertia switch,or even the fuel pump. there are some things you could test that would give you the answer,but first>>>what is the year,make and model and problem you are having...
Hi stevieray4, I'm back after a few months and 2,000 miles of travel. This week after filling up my tank my truck would not start. 1 crank for 5 seconds and no start, then 2nd crank it started. 5 miles down the road to next stop went to restart and it cranked 10 times and before it started. It acts like its starved for fuel. I put the pressure gauge back on the fuel rail and will drive it for a month like that. I check press each time I turn the key on and watch for pressure. If pressure, start to see if it starts. No Codes. The grimlins must be back. :(
sure am sorry to hear that. we gotta get these F150's straight for good! one question,when you fill it up do you keep filling it after the pumps kicks off the first time or do you keep pumping gas to the rim? also, i think i have a bad axle bearing on the pass side rear(kinda roaring),replaced the front inner/outer/bearings/seals a couple months ago.maybe the axle won't be scarred to bad to re-use it,but if not i can get a new one at RockAuto for $90.00+$9.99 shipping.it's $142.99 at Autozone,BUT they will match the ROCKS price,(have done this several times already)save bout $50.00..got to get it fixed,about 68.5 more miles,it gonna roll over to 336,000 miles! gotta put more miles on it...enough about mine,lets get yours fixed.keep me informed,Later...
Wow ! 336K !! I can just need 2 more years maybe 200K. Concerning my no start. I did not fill the tank. I only bought $40 and it took it to abut 3/4 of a tank. It started right up and I drove 1/2 mile and parked for about 5 mins. That's when it did not start on 1st crank but, did start on 2nd crank. Then a few miles more. parked for about 20 mins. and it took 10 cranks to get it to start. It sputter like it was not getting fuel. Even if the fuel pump was not spinning (from maybe a bad spot on the armature) and not starting, once it pressure up, it should not of sputtered (IMO). That was several days ago and I start the engine every day and it works so far. I have the press. gauge on it now where I can see it above the cowel in front of the windshield. Checking for pressure each time I turn on the key. (continued)
When I started my truck this morning it pressured up to 38 psig with key on. When I started cranking and engine started the fuel pressure dropped down to 10 psig just for a second and then it rides ad about 32 psig. Never below 32 psig. Strange but, I'll post what happens in future. (continued - different topic)
Stevieray4, have you ever seen a monitor that a person could for fuel rail pressure sensing ? I searched and do not find one anywhere. I know basic analog electronics dealing with relays and opti-couplers to use digital signals to and from the Raspberry Pi. I was thinking of building a monitor for my truck. It would sense the pressure at the fuel tap and voltage at the "roll over safety" witch on wire going to the fuel pump and 12 volts at the fuel pump relay. Not hard to do this. I could do it in a few days after finding pressure sensing device. 12 volt sense no problem. Pressure would be a more difficult. I could use a pressure switch that cuts out at less than 20 psig and grounds GPIO pin on Raspberry Pi to say "No Pressure". And this would be a Linux System on the Raspberry Pi. The first proto-type would be just on/off lights for each sensing circuit. What else would I want to monitor additionally ?
Just using lights on a small box with analog voltage and grounding sensing would be the 1st try. All lights ON - GOOD to Go. One light for fuel pump pressure @ rail. One light for 12 volt to fuel pump from safety switch. One light for power to Relay activation. One light for Power to fuel pump side of relay. Gould also have 2 lights for safety switch. --> from Fuel Pump Relay & --> To Fuel Pump. Would this be cool ? It may help me and since no codes, I think others might be wanting something like this too. (Very small niche market though). I'm sure the $1,000 Snap on Scanner can tell you whats up but, my simple analog display would give instant real time diagnostics. Not high tech but very cheap to make.
I have started the design of my analog multi-LED bypass tester device. It will have several LED lights; on/off power switch that will show on/off state of multiple points in the Fuel Pump circuit. I'm also going to wire in a Relay socket where a person can test there Fuel Pump Relay on my device. Also, a way to apply fused 12 volts directly to the Fuel Pump. To protect the PCM there will be at least 2 diodes. One will dump transient voltage spikes generated by Fuel Pump Relay Testing and to prevent back feed voltage from affecting the upstream circuit. Trying to find a Pressure Sensor that I put on the Fuel Pump Rail 4AN Schroeder valve to turn on Pressure "On" - "No" Pressure lights. Might use an oil pressure switch that will do the jog. Anything above 10 PSIG will work for now.
no,i have not seen such a thing,but good luck with your making of one.
I've built many analog devices like this in the past. I built a relay system for my brother so he can manually turn on his sprinkler systems (3 zones) when he is fixing things. I know it will be help me in to trace down the grimlin so I can stop him without spending $1,000s on "maybe it its this or that". Should have it done before Christmas :)
Here is prototype schematic. Will start building in couple weeks after getting all parts and tine to build it.
Its the first drawing. Now I have to build the prototype for "proof of concept". Hooking wires to relay wires will be the hardest part. I think I'll get an actual relay and make a insert - splice adapter. Where original relay can plug back in to original socket and wire leads back to my test device. Its going to be a slow process and I hope I don't need it before its done. Hope, Hope.
Hi Stevieray4, My "no start issue" with my truck is now happening more often. The problem is a drop in fuel pressure on cranking the engine but, it always pressures up to 40 psig with Key On. Then (on every 4-5 starts on same day Key On 40psig then crank and pressure drops to 0 psig and stays there until. I cycle Key - On - Off 4 or 5 times and 40 psig comes back. Pump is really quiet and hard to hear if it is running. (Not sure yet if I wait 10 mins or so if the pressure will come back on the next ky On... Will test this today). One thing I do notice is that as soon as the engine cranks, the pressure gauge drops to 15 psig (+/-) and then back to 32 psig every time. And its a fast drop from 32 psig to 0 when it fails to maintain pressure. I'm going to hook up a LED light to the wire going from the inertia safety to the fuel pump and see if the electrical drops out. This drop off quick and then it will start back up after a while - COULD IT BE the Fuel Regulator ? Also, would it hurt to pull the vacuum line off the fuel regulator and once engine starts, put vacuum line back on fuel regulator and see if the problem goes away ? Thanks, Bobby
Correction to above comment. It does not always pressure to 40 psig when Key On. (Actually) - When pressure drops to 0 (zero) it may take 4 or 5 key on - key off cycles to see pressure return. The pressure is always 40 psig and then crank ----> drop to Zero. Once the pressure is up and engine starts, It will run perfect for hours. Never any indication of fuel pressure drop once engine starts. Its only when I go to start the engine again that it always pressures to 40 psig --> then crank --> 15 psig --> 32 psig --> 0 psig - -> 4 or 5 key on - key (this could also be a time elapse - fix its self).
pull the vacuum line off the regulator,if any signs of fuel or fuel smell in the vacuum line,the regulator is BAD! what year is your truck and engine size(I FORGOT)also have you already put a new fuel pump on it(forgot that info also)?
I will check the vacuum line at Fuel Regulator for evidence of fuel; Thanks ! Great Suggestion !!! My Truck is a 2000 with 4.6L, 170K miles, well maintained by Corporation for first 13 years.Then not so much by 2nd owner but, he had a Ford Reman Auto Trans installed. I have NOT installed the new fuel pump kit. I plan on rebuilding it when I have to pull it. Let me check the fuel pump vacuum line right now.
No fuel or fuel vapor at Fuel Regulator vacuum hose. I then plugged the vacuum hose and started the engine. The pressure gauge almost wen to 0 psig but, then back up to 32 psig. Almost like it was late starting. I know that if the crank sensor is not sending a signal to the PCM the fuel pump will not turn on. Hmmm ? Nothing pointing to actual cause yet. Next step is to wire up an LED on wire at out of inertia safety switch going to the fuel pump. I don't have time right now to build my fuel circuit Analog Test Device. Relative sink and I am helping her. Any thoughts on why, "almost zero pressure before fuel pump starts on engine start" ?
10-4! ok,you have the same truck as I do,2000 F150 Extended Cab 4.6L,mine is 139'' wheel base. I made a mistake when I replaced my fuel pump! I ordered one off of ebay? went out 3 times!!! I then went to a scrap yard and bought a used assembly,been in there for a long while now.If it goes out,I will get one from RockAuto,they have Motorcraft pumps now, Part Number: PFS-107 for 120'' or 139'' wheel base=$225.79+$6.99 shipping,it's around $500.00 at the dealership! what I have been doing lately on parts is looking them up on Autozone website,then go to RockAuto website,print out the Rocks price(same exact part # as the ZONE) including shipping,take the print out to the Zone and they match the Rocks price! I did it on a timing belt kit(Dayco)for my ole Camry.the ZONE was $120.00,and the ROCK was like $57.00 plus shipping,so I saved around $50.00.I did it yesterday on NGK wires for the Camry,part #8916,$48.59 at the ZONE,the ROCK was $22.79 plus $5.99 shipping,so I got em at Autozone for $27.78 plus tax...
sounds like what mine did,went out slowly,took one year for it to quit.mine was hitting the bad/flat spot in the pump motor from 16 years of pump starting,no humm from pump,try again,pump would prime and start! mine went out in my driveway,got lucky there!
Autozone shows both FP Delivery Module and Fuel Pressure Sensor for this model. I did not see a FPDM above my spare tire. RockAuto.com only showsa Fuel Pressure Sensor. I had no codes but, will check again.
it don't have the FPDM! I saw that when i was having fuel pump problems..i think they started the FPDM in 2004? the evap fuel tank pressure sensor is in the top of the fuel tank,believe me,i had the bed off more than once! Part Number SU7379..NO FPDM,no need to look..
Now I'm at a lost ! On my Truck, 2000 4.6L SOHC, I don't see a Pressure Sensor on my fuel rail anywhere; No FPDM in the rear above spare tire. I only see the vacuum controlled Fuel Pressure regulator on the Fuel Rail - Drivers Side near Injector No 7. So, on this configuration the pump when on is at full speed and the pressure regulator controls the fuel pressure to the injectors in response to vacuum at the fuel rail. Seems to be the most simplest setup. I have read this configuration also wheres the pump out faster. Does your 4.6L have a Pressure Sensor and Control Module ?
the pressure sensor is called an EVAP Fuel Tank Pressure Sensor and is mounted on top of the fuel tank. there is no FPDM on the 97-03 F150. they started doing that in 2004,and they do rust out and short the circuit board inside of it,but again you don't have a FPDM on your 2000.and yes,the fuel pressure regulator is where you said it is. also again,when you turn the key to ON,NOT CRANKING you should hear the fuel pump humm/prime for 2 seconds and then it cuts off,then when you crank it and the engine/ECM see's RPM,then the fuel pump comes back on and runs until you turn the truck off again.
Thank you for info.
okeey doekeey,keep me posted,i'm curious! if i were to guess,i would say the fuel pump is going out,at least that's what happened to me over a one year period. it started off just once in a blue moon,then it did it more often,but took a year before it finally quit,no more humm/prime when i turned the key on,NOTHING! also, I did lose some power bout a year ago and it sounded like a rod was knocking,but as i would speed up,the knocking went away,did it mostly at idle,NO CODES. WELL,IT QUIT KNOCKING FOR 1 YEAR, AND IF IT WERE A ROD,THAT DON'T QUIT KNOCKING? it started back a few months ago and i took it to a Muffler shop,it was 1 converter rattling/knocking,changed it,all quiet again.i kinda figured that's what it was and it was hard to pin point(sounded like it was coming from the front of engine,the bottom,the side,then it quit as soon as i took it to the muffler shop the first time).when it started back,i took it straight to the muffler shop still rattling,so he found which of the 4 converters it was! the honeycomb/cone or whatever it's called inside the converter broke loose,then it got stuck i guess and then broke loose and moved/rattle/knocking again a year later.no codes period,still same 4 O2 Sensors in there since i have had it,bout 11 years now,,,,,,,,Later....
Thanks for the info. So far, I only have a very slight knock if I let the truck sit for over 2 days. And I only let it happen once. So, I installed a manual momentary push button to the stater solenoid to pre-prime the engine before starting and no knock since. I think the timing chains have been done around 120K as this truck for the first 13 years was owned by a Corporation who had Ford do all the work (per car-fax). There is evidence that the front main seal was leaking a lot but, currently not leaking a drop at 170K. I'm hoping this is the case. I only need my truck to go 2-1/2 years and I get my social security. Have brand new tires front and back; Ford Reman Trans 8K miles ago; 2K miles ago I put in new differential side, pinion gears and clutches & 8oz posi additive. So, next will be the fuel pump. I'm still going to make my tester but, make it less complex to make. Only going to monitor, Pressure at rail, Powers at relay and power from inertia switch to fuel pump all in a neat little box. This way, it can be used on all models to help diagnose fuel system issues. Thanks again for your help. Stay tuned !
ok, I'm staying tuned. I changed the gear oil in the rear differential(8.8 ring gear) a few years ago,but you really never need to unless there is a leak or you back it in the river a lot,like putting a boat in,and my manual also stated to add 4 oz of Friction Modifier (XL3),but only if I had Limited Slip,which I don't,so I didn't add any because it is Non Locking.I just replaced it with what the diff tag/manual said,75W140 Full Synthetic gear oil.Also here is a picture of my truck with the bed off,and the evap fuel tank pressure sensor is the one in the middle of the filler hose and vent hose on top...
Thanks for the info and pic of tank top. I've got my Volt Meter on the feed wire to the fuel pump and pressure gauge on fuel rail but, it has not failed yet. First time it does I'll know if its the pump (like you said) and I be your right too. Well keep you posted. Thanks, Bobby
I'm standing by!
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