2010 Ford F150 rear lights are not working


Asked by GuruW1MC Mar 31, 2017 at 07:58 PM about the Ford F-150

Question type: Maintenance & Repair

Rear lights, brake lights, turn signals,
reverse lights and hazards not working.
Also license plate lights. The only light in
the back of the car that works is the
cargo light. All front lights work including
hazards. The fuses look fine I checked
lots of them anything having to do with
lights. I checked electric connections as I
followed the wire bundle up to the fuse
box I didn't see any that seemed lose or
in poor condition. The only one that
looked warn was above the spare tire,
but it seems to make connection and the
pins look OK. I checked most of the
bulbs they're fine so far but could one
faulty bulb cause this? What am I

29 Answers


No, one bulb would not affect the rest of the bulbs. Could be a ground problem in the back.

10 people found this helpful.

Also check for the fuse number which controls the rear lights. Use a multi meter and check for voltage inside the fuse box where the fuse plugs into.

4 people found this helpful.

I'll check for power at the box today.

2 people found this helpful.

So there's power at the rear lights, and all the bulbs we've checked are good. I plugged the lights into the front fixtures and they work there.

3 people found this helpful.

Use a multi-meter or a 12 volt circuit tester with a light to check for power to the light sockets in the rear. Check inside the socket (where the light makes contact with socket and also at the rear of the bulb sockets where the wires enter the socket. Sockets are known to go bad. Although since all the lights are out I believe the problem may be with the ground. Find the ground location for the rear lights and check for a good contact. You can also check the ground with a multi meter. The new will have a video to show you how.

9 people found this helpful.

Correction, the NET will have a video to show how.

8 people found this helpful.

Thanks, the ground seems to be the next most likely option. Argh I did use a multi-meter it red a bit over 12 volts at all the light sockets, it also confirmed that the blinker relays work fine.


If you're reading 12 volts at the socket with a multi-meter, then the problem is with the ground, if you touched a metal part of the vehicle while contacting the lead inside the socket. If you have problem locating where the tail lights ground, let me know. I have a color coded wiring diagram around the house somewhere for the 2010 F 150.

7 people found this helpful.

I cleaned the two grounds in the back, although they seemed OK to me. One was above the spare tire, the other was near the drivers side rear tire, it was connected to a electrical connector with six other wires out of the rear bundle. I assume they are all grounds. It has this inline (see photo) they appear to be thicker copper wires that have been partially exposed at some point. When I do the oms test on either side of it, the reading continually changes and zeros every now and then. I put a jumper wire around it, bypassing it to see if it was the problem but still no luck. I'm hesitate to cut it off and replace it with wire because I don't know what it is.

4 people found this helpful.

The larger wire appears to be a ground. Black wires are ground wires, if someone didn't begin splicing things together haphazard. The solid black wire coming off the plugs for the tail lights is the ground. The multi colored wires should be the power side. Try to trace them and see if they lead to the plug you have in the photo. Backprobe at the tail light socket with the headlights on to determine which wire is the taillight. Use the ground probe on a metal portion of the vehicle. If you have power going to the socket, but no lights, since all are out, you will have to find where the ground is broken.

4 people found this helpful.

From viewing the photo there seems to be a broken black wire. Has it been pulled out of the socket/cut?

2 people found this helpful.

Attaching a copy of the tail light wiring diagram for 2010 F 150. Ground is not solid black, but black/green. If you have difficulty reading the codes I can send to you by other means if you wish

12 people found this helpful.
Best Answer Mark helpful

I'm not sure what to make of that, I've never used wiring diagrams before. The frayed wire you see is braided steel I think it's added to the bundle for strength but I could be wrong I don't see any broken wires.


Ask around of your friends or relatives. Anyone with basic electrical knowledge should be able to locate the problem within minutes.

2 people found this helpful.

I appreciate the help! It looks simple enough I'm going to try to muddle my way through it.

3 people found this helpful.

Fixed! Man thanks for all the help OJ! Even though I can't really tell what the numbers and symbols mean that diagram led to the fix by showing me which wire top follow. It ended up being the burned ground connection in this connector. I found it at the rear most part of the underside of the truck bed. It was nicely concealed in a cavity that the tail light wires run through. There was very little slack on the wire bundle to work with. The burned pin you see in the connector is the black green ground wire.

17 people found this helpful.

I had the same problem and the black/green wire that goes to the rear under the spare tire was bad.

4 people found this helpful.

So do you just replace the connector and attach new wires to all of them

3 people found this helpful.

I just replaced the one wire and bypassed the connector.

6 people found this helpful.

I had same problem on my 2010 f150. After 3 repair attempts I replaced the taillight wire harness. 170 bucks. No more problem.

3 people found this helpful.

would this be the same solution for a 2009 f150 lariat 4wd? Ran out of solution after checking the fuses and bulbs.


If you trace the wires from your wiring harness where you would connect to a boat trailer under the bumper and you will need to remove your spare tire. Trace the wire along the frame and is on the driver side of the spare tire you will find a white connector that is a multi pin connector. Unplug this clean it out and plug it back in that is where my short was at. I attributed the problem of corrosion due to backing a boat into the water and the connector getting put under water. You can turn your ignition on cut a blinker on and then grab the wiring and when you hear it start blinking you will know That the connection is made. Hope this helps

6 people found this helpful.

I have the same problem how did u fix it. Same black and green wire


I have no idea what that part is called so don't know how to order a new one. or how to by pass the plug.

2 people found this helpful.

You guys are awesome! Mine went out last night. Today went right to connector and BOOM! Thanks for sharing........Jason


2010 Ford F-150 lariat . No brake lights , blinkers were hyper flashing but not lightning up in rear of truck. No emergency flashers.Cargo light worked, all lights in front of truck worked ,Back up camera came on when brakes were pressed and stayed on while driving FORWARD. No Backup camera in reverse. Dealer changed 2 pigtails .. only the pigtails , no harness. $ 500.00 they said was due to moisture, I never launched a boat , only drive it on the weekends and it’s parked in a garage every day.

2 people found this helpful.

Thank you everyone for the Q&A on this. I dropped the spare tire on my 2010 Ford F-150 XLT and located the harness/connector that GuruW1MC mentioned. Pulled it apart and clicked it back together while I had the key in the ignition and the turn signal on and VIOLA everything (brake lights and signal lights) came back on. Going to get back under there and treat the connections with some electronic cleaner since mine just seemed like a little corrosion problem and not a burnt wire or connection. Thanks again!


I unplugged the harness and plugged it back up back working

1 people found this helpful.

@Drewva24 I did the same thing but ended up eventually bypassing the connector and joining the black/green wire together with about 8 inches of extra 14 guage wire and two shrink wrap connectors. No more problems and it has been 3 weeks.

1 people found this helpful.

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