Running out of ideas.... Look in additional info.
While my truck is in the shop I was using my dads
car. Within a week of using it, it starts messing up.
It seemed like it was struggling to get air so I took
it to the shop they said that the Cadillac converter
was stopped up, so they punched it. I picked the
car up and got down the road and it was still
messing up. The shop kept it for almost 2 weeks
trying to figure it out and they couldn't. I'm just
happy he didn't charge me for all the test ran.
Here's what I can tell u about what's going on.
*gotta pump gas twice then hold for it to start.
*Runs and idles good when cold.
*(at first) When motor warms up only in drive it
would hesitate like if it's not getting fuel.
*(Now)after motor is warm it does it in park/neutral
if given gas
*Stalls if driven or given gas then left to idle.
*Has good fuel pressure
*Jets are not pulsing as much as they should
*fuel filter was replaced 3 months ago
* all plugs and wires are good
* I put a new distributor cap and rotor button on
when I started using it because that has given
problems before so I changed it out.
Let me know if you need any more information.
Any help is very appreciated!
You did not tell us the year, you can remove the fuel filter and blow the contents into a jar. if its clean, reuse it. if it has a carb, that's one line of thinking, if it has an electronically controlled carb, that's another. The caps could be drilled to access the mixture. the vacuum leaks and hoses should be fixed first, and the plugs and wires must be inspected, ohm checked and verified. too wide a plug gap can be part of it. If it has injectors, then the vacuum leak idea still there, but false air, from a torn boot, idle air control valve concern, or sensors failed or throwing codes, this changes the operating plan of the fuel computer, so you first must say, make, model, year, engine and trans. Then you need a technician who knows it's not right to tamper withemission controls, especially if they have not failed some simple tests.
Sorry it's a 97
No codes are showing up either.
The parts you used may be poor fit or low quality. I have seen some stuff they sell that costs more and fits poorly, creating resistance in the secondary ignition. then the more the customer tries, them ore stuff they sell him. A few months later I walk by it sitting at the u-pull-it yard with a mess of brightly colored Garbage on the engine and the guy ran out of money. So after following the haynes manual, and only replacing failed parts, he could have had it corrected even by the emission certified shop and saved money. Haynes manuals can be requested free from your library. Let us know what you find as you go and the info will help find the right course of tests to run.
Excuse me, (the more the customer tries the more stuff they sell him)
This 97 has injectors? does it have coil on plug? or plug wires. You were saying "jets" like carburetor jets. may have meant injectors. Now need engine displacement and trans type, auto or manual.
Worn plugs have a gap that widens.A gap gauge cant measure it. A new set of NGK's is cheap if the counterman tries for you. Split hoses and plug wire concerns need testing to find. do you have a DVOM? try cap tower to end of wire at the plug. less than 25K ohms? (5K ohms per foot) as a general rule
It's 4 cylinder auto
In drive, you said so it must be auto trans
Seems like a 97 would have fuel injection, you dont pump the gas on those.......it should start without touching the accellerator......If you knew it was flooded, generally holding the throttle wide open would get it started. electronically controlled ones generally shut off the fuel when you hold them wide open at start.
What i get from that symptom about playing with the throttle, is there is an air/ fuel issue. a car with injection, that requires this to start can have fuel issues or vacuum leak and or spark delivery issues. I will read this again after you read up, run tests, and inspect, identify, and test. as well as possibly clean the old cap and rotor and retry them.
True. I'm sorry I wrote it wrong. I don't know much about this car. Just what ppl has told me. My dad told me to push the gas when to start it after it's been sitting all night.
I'll do some more testing today to see what I can figure out. I'll let u know what I have done later. And please excuse some of my terms or if I get the name of something wrong. I'm just trying to fix this car for me and the kids. Husband don't know much about cars either and my brother inlaw is always busy. Sucks being in a small town with one mechanic
Getting a haynes manual, identifying what it has for engine displacement, like 2.0L or 2.2L is helpful, then what fuel system, then what ignition type. basic description. That would stop the back and forth and save trips down the wrong road. remember you can test or inspect, measure. rather than replace parts. If you end up needing something, the expense can be spent on that and get high quality parts for your $. Online sources can provide very high quality. others have pictures of bright shiny candles you light at both ends and in the middle, hahaha. Seriously, nippondenso ignition parts are not that much more than chinese replica's, does that make sense ? They would last a lifetime, fit perfectly, and include normally deleted items that hurt longevity......dont worry too much about terms you might use as long as we are talking about the same system, we must establish engine size in liters, then, injected? and you said cap and rotor, so it must have plug wires. the test includes removing the cap, then each wire from its plug. test the cap electrode in the tower up inside it for that wire. then the other DVOM test lead goes at the plug end of the wire. I want to see if the value is out of range, then does it change when you bend around on the wire over its length. They can look brand new and have a burnt end inside where you cannot see it. .....So, how far to the nearest dealership service department.?\ They might fix this during a basic tune, test, advise. Or tell you the condition to where you can decide how to proceed.
I noticed you said plugs and wires are "good" so what tests were run and what were the results? appearance alone or brand name means very little. I was wondering if records were kept or receipts for previous repairs and maintenance, and what's the vehicles mileage? You could put a sheet on a clipboard and write all these tedious questions in a list, when an answer comes up, jot it down.
You could also take a pic and upload to give an idea what it is. I'm wondering how many pounds of fuel pressure there was, and does yours have a regulator with a vacuum hose ? for fuel? Then the condition of the plugs, what color is the porcelain below the electrode, where it was inside the combustion chamber, the end that screws in. are they all 4 the same in appearance ?
The 1.6L has been reported as leaking into the distributor body obscuring the sensor for shaft position. If there is a mess coming out the bottom and you have that engine size, spray cleaning may affect the way it has been acting. This possible concern can end up being a hard start/ no start concern. you can google your symptoms followed by year and make/ model and see videos about various concerns and their remedies. remember to identify yours and be sure what they are talking about actually is the same make, model, year, engine, symptom. Otherwise, asking a qualified technician is best, even if you have to tow it there.
Looking for a Used Sentra in your area?
CarGurus has 52,941 nationwide Sentra listings starting at $1,799.
Search Nissan Sentra Questions
Nissan Sentra Experts