how to reach lower compression nuts on ip to stop leaking diesel
My fuel filter was recently changed, & now i have a diesel drip from ip. Is there a tool that reaches around upper injector lines to tighten lower compression nuts, or do i have to remove uppers?
who changed the filter,and no it will have to be tore down to the point of getting to the nuts,then you will need a inch pound tourk wrench.
Thanks for the bad news, & clue about needing tork wrench. I dread removing all those hard fuel lines almost as much as i dread taking van back to the one diesel mechanic in this yuppie town who failed to tighten filter properly. In fairness, it was such a struggle to get out, that even after I put a bag around it, (his trick to catch spillage) i shredded bag & spilled filter contents while wrestling filter out. Then, I couldn't get it back in. But, since he also replumbed one feul return rail, it seems to me that he loosened injector line(s) while replacing return T's & tubes. Is it reasonable to ask him to fix leak at no charge? Aside; the day after I bought a '95 windstar,( 55K mi.= $2000), neither of my diesels( $500 each at less than 130k mi.) would start. My other E=350 gets batteries drained often due to dome light timer not shutting off. I hear there is some mechanism in door latch that fails to trigger off dome lights. Any advice on fixing that would be great. Further, windstar windows won't open, nor even click when door switch is pressed, yet rear vents open by switch on dash...Would this indicate bad relay to doors? Where is it? Masochanic
yes the mechanic should fix the problems he caused at no charge.as for the dome light switch,you will have to remove door panel to gain acc,no biggie their,for the windows,check fuse,replace switch on driver door,if it is bad none of the other windows will go down-up.rear vents are on a different circute,switch.
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