i have a 2002 dodge 1500, 4.7. It will crank but not start, replaced the CAMshaft and crankshaft senors, replace all plugs, fuel tested ok, we can here the fuel pump engage, we have spark and that last thing we just did was changed all the timing chains (it was out of timing) but the truck still will not start. Help on what could be next? Thanks
Check the firing order on your plug wires and connections first and then try again. If there is no spitting or popping then I would rule out the timing being off.Also make sure your coils have power to them. If this does not work try a new or known good battery or check your amps as per factory specs.
Thanks for the suggestions. All could have fire, new battery and it tested good. Failed to mention this started while driving and the truck just died and wouldn't start again. We have tried everything we can think of and have to be missing something. Timing is dead on. New cam and crank shaft sensors. Fuel test good. We have spark and fire to the coils New plugs New timing chains No codes on the computer Truck will crank but just won't start Any further suggestions or help is very much appreciated.
Have you checked all of your vacuum hoses?
Thanks and yes we have checked the vacuum hoses. We are not getting spark like we thought, so I replaced all coil packs and still no start or no spark. The last thing we can think of would be the PCM, but we originally received a code (camshaft or crankshaft sensor) so how could we get a code if the PCM was out? Everyone we speak to say it should start. Any more suggestions very much appreciated.
Hello TommyB20; I had a similar situation with my truck (1994 5.2L ram 1500). If you have not checked already; re verify the rotation on your distributor, the rotor button and the condition of the cap. if all else fails; check your wiring to the TPS and MAF. I recently fixed my problem by finding a cut wire caused by a rodent; it fixed my problem. Make sure your wires to the coil are secure and the power to the coil is present. Dodgeem22
Check your fuses in the engine compartment . Dodgeem22
Thanks. This year truck doesnt have a distributor. I just replaced all the coil packs that connect to the plugs. We are not having any spark now so that is the reason I changed the coil packs, but still no start. Can not think of anything else except maybe the PCM computer, which doesn't make total sense since initially we received codes when we plugged the reader.
Also forgot to mention, we checked all the fuses and everything was fine, we even swapped out some relay fuses....still nothing.
Check the coils for proper voltage / amperage errors. Low voltage will give you no start but maybe weak spark. Dodgeem22
We just out all new coil packs on and still no spark
http://www.jcwhitney.com/1994-2003-dodge-ram-1500/ignition- control-module/p2019009d50369y1994-2003j1.jcwx? year=2002&filterid=g139 Check this out. If this don't help; go back to the ignition switch and from the off position (on to off to on )3 times (don't engage the starter) an read the counts again on your check engine light. cut and paste the link above to your browser. Dodgeem22
Thanks where is the ignition control module. We took out the crankshaft sensor and the truck started, ran really rough. But we heard if you take that sensor out and it runs then it's a bad sensor, but this was brand new so we took it back anyway and put the new new one in and still would not start, but did again when we pulled it out. Suggestions?
Check for broken wires or loose connectors in the engine compartment and......under the steering column in the cab.
http://www.jcwhitney.com/1994-2003-dodge-ram-1500/ignition- control-module/p2019009d50369y1994-2003j1.jcwx? year=2002&filterid=g139 copy this to your internet browser and take a look.
I have the same issue with my 2001 Ram. Dealer charged $130 to check out. Now wants $550 for compression test.
Dealer here in Georgia has no clue what is wrong
If that engine is a interference engine and depending on how much it was out of time u could have bent a valve. Do a compression check each cylinder should be 130-150 psi. That's total bullshit someone charging $550 for a compression check. Bring it to my shop in ohio I'll do a compression check for $75.
Another thing u need to do is unplug the cam sensor and with it unplugged try starting the truck let it turn over for about ten seconds.
any more??!! resolved this yet? my 03 ram 4.7l is doin this exact same thing. crank sensor and cam sensor is new. map sensor and coils. and new timing chain. new wiring harness also done. compression is perfect all are 150 or close. need help!!!
My 2002 Dodge Ram 1500 4.7 is doing the same thing, it wont start at times. Then all at once it will. Then itbwill stall out, and then start, none of it makes sense. I've checked everything, help?
Still searching for an answer here. Bypassing the fuel pump relay works...but doesn't address the underlying problem. Have replaced the IPM and the FCM and no such luck. The only thing that get the truck to run is to use a jump wire to bypass.
Tommyb20 figure anything out
I resolved my issue which sounds similar to the OP. I had to use a jumper to bypass the ASD relay which was killing the signal to the fuel pump and spark plugs. I bought a remanufactured PCM on eBay (simple to do) and the truck fired right up without the jumper. Hopes this helps other folks out there experiencing the same issue.
you found the problem on the truck ?
You get truck fixed? Mine is doing it please help me
Get truck fixed ? Mine doing it help me Ty Sherry
does anyone have a full schematic on the relative applications for the 4.7 in years 2000- 2003? I'm thinking there may be a combo punch list nof connection issues here my 2003 is doing the exact same thing all y'alls rigs are doing and I've benn thru that replacement ringer too! It seems like omly a few of us have lucked into a true fix, so I'd like to start tracking it on my computer for all possible(obvious) combinations of bad anythings and loose or feeble connections. Ive just had my motor replacedand it ran ok for a while, but cranked hella long to start, then started throwing every possible code one right after another. its like if I fix it the next thing in line becomes the weak link.so i'm thinking lets set up a pattern from end to end, of checks and fixes. if its organized well, we should be able to get every body back on the road in less than a couple of days. any help?
My 03 is doing the same thing need help
OK guys new here but gonna leave some good advice for you Dodge guys. Just messed with one of these 2003 Dodge ram 4.7 cranks but wont start and here is what I found bottom plug on the ECM black one on this one anyways. Well there is a purple wire coming out of the ECM plug it comes out about 8 to 10 inches in the harness and than there is a connector the wire changes to the red with a white strip you will have to cut open the taped harness a bit from the ECM plug to find it.. it feeds the fuel pump relay and the injector pulse I think it even has something to do will the gas gauge because it is working now to. I changed the crank sensor in it and still crank no start so traced the red/white wire( fuel pump relay wire ) back to the purple wire that comes out of the ECM plug cut the connector out. replaced the small piece of wire and everything works now Hope this help the guy that are dealing with a crank no start problem. This one was a tricky one to fugure out but we got it ! fixed the wire fixed the problem !!!!!! starts every time now ! . a lot of people say ECM is bad crank sensor ! cam sensor ! is bad and it seams like it to until you trace the wires backwards and find that connector that is bad cheaper than throwing parts in it $$$$$$ to fix the problem with no change like you didn't do anything at all lol. Good luck some pics for ya
Hey Guys, My issues seems the same, I was replacing a leaky timing chain gasket and found an issue with how lose the chain was....since i was already there I decided to get a new cam...(I've got a bunch of other upgrades so this wasn't crazy).... but once I tried putting it back together there was alot I'd missed.... apparently spinning the crank while the distro is a no no... I tried doing a fuel sync to re position the distro with no luck... not wasting fuel anymore but it's still popping and spitting when i place it in drive.... I'm still hunting for the answer, but at one point someone in the performance groups I searched said you have to set the crank to TDC then remove the distro and point one of those two directions in the block towards the front of the engine...I'll try it tonight.... Cam Style: Hydraulic roller tappet Basic Operating RPM Range: 900-5,200 Intake Duration at 050 inch Lift: 210 Exhaust Duration at 050 inch Lift: 220 Duration at 050 inch Lift: 210 int./220 exh. Advertised Intake Duration: 264 Advertised Exhaust Duration: 274 Advertised Duration: 264 int./274 exh. Intake Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio: 0.512 in. Exhaust Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio: 0.512 in. Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio: 0.512 int./0.512 exh. Lobe Separation (degrees): 112 Computer-Controlled Compatible: Yes Grind Number: CRS264HR-12
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