1989 F150 Fuel problems.


Asked by Apr 13, 2012 at 10:14 AM about the 1989 Ford F-150

Question type: Maintenance & Repair

I have a 1989 Ford F150 with the 5.0 fuel injected. Its not getting gas and I don't know where the problem begins. I know its getting fuel up to the fuel pump by the driver's door. but not sure about afterwards. Is there anyway I could rig a gas can to it so that it'll get fuel directly too the motor and I could get it to run? Like on the older model fords that have the fuel pump on the driver side of the motor? Or is that not possible with the fuel injection?

11 Answers


check all of the fuel lines and go to a parts house and get some Lucas and clean out your fuel injectors, and if that doesnt work then look into a new fuel pump

3 of 3 people found this helpful.

I also have an 89 ford f150 with the 5.0. Before spending a lot of money, jump the wires to the fuel pump just inside the frame rails under the driver door. Several fords that I have worked with fail at the relay controlling the fuel pumps, fore and aft. (You have two pumps, one on the rail and one in the fuel tank.) If the pump powers up, replace both the relay and the connector. Corrosion will cause the relay to fail.

15 of 15 people found this helpful.

Where are these wires at? And what colors are they?

31 of 31 people found this helpful.

I also have a 1989 f150 five speed straight 6. I just changed the fuel pump and the filter and after driving half the day it sputtered and died out I poured a gallon of gas in the tank hopping it was out and it started right up only to die out again after about 5 miles and now it wont start. Would you know what it may be and how to fix it?

96 of 96 people found this helpful.

http://blog.chiltondiy.com/2012/05/how-to-tell-if-your-fuel-pump- needs-replacing/.... great troubleshooting guide

17 of 17 people found this helpful.

I just overcame a 1986 5.0 efi f150 randomly dying on me. The fuel pump relay (driver side firewall under the hood hinge) powered up for 2 seconds at key to run position, but the high pressure fuel pump did not run at all, and there was no fuel at the fuel rail (used a modified toothpick to press the schraeder valve open). The eec relay and computer powered up also (behind the little box to the lower right of the steering wheel on the dash). I checked that I did indeed have 12volts to the inertia cutoff switch just above the upper left side of the passenger floorboard. I ripped the radio and heater control area apart to get to the fuel tank selector switch. I had also put my battery on the charger and pulled the high pressure fuel pump, checking all the wires at the same time. I hooked the fuel pump for a split second to the batter on the charger, it sputtered out gas and seemed to run fine. I reinstalled it. I also decided to bypass the fuel tank selector switch, connecting the second (middle) slot on the left (power in) to the lower left slot (front in-tank pump). I also connected the second (middle) slot on the right (signal to fuel guage) to the lower right slot (front tank sending unit). I re-installed the battery, turned the key to the run position and was happy to hear the relays click and the high pressure pump kick on. I then had a friend turn the key off and then back to run so that I could verify the in-tank pump in the front tank also ran for 2 seconds; it did. I had my friend cycle the ignition about 8 times until the pump started to sound like it was laboring a bit. I then pushed the schraeder valve again with my toothpick and fuel shot out at pressure. The truch started perfectly and ran like a top. If I have any further problems, I am 98% sure that it is will work out to be a shorted or bad connection between ground and the high pressure pump, or 12volts in from the inertia switch (possibly shorted by the tank selector switch). I hope this helps someone else. It was quite the mental effort to go through everything methodical.

8 of 8 people found this helpful.

I have 89 f150 4wd 5.0 fuel injected 2 gas tanks. Use back tank and ever 50-100 miles switch to front tank. For about 10-15 miles then switch back... and dont put gas in the front tank. Because I had your same problem about 2 months ago and that's how I fixed it without my new proble is the is the leak and the exhau somewher by the intake I was tol buy this mechanic gu by this mechanic guy that that there was it was a donut gasket needing replaced and told by the O'Reilly's auto parts store there's not a donut gasket on a 5-point. how I could figu how I could figure out how to fix the leak and exactly pinpoint where its at I know its up on the engine behind the battery right by the intake manifold and I'm a girl so how would I figure out if its a new oil

3 of 3 people found this helpful.

Find your exhaust leak using a piece of garden hose or flexible tubing. Put one end near your ear and use the other end to listen around the different areas of the exhaust manifold. On the passenger side of the engine above the exhaust manifold is your egr valve. (Exhaust Gas Recirculation valve). It puts a regulated amount of exhaust back through the intake. It is fed by a metal tube that can also corrode and leak so make sure you check it too. My truck also has exhaust crossover tubes that run from one head to the other. They are between the back of the motor and the firewall. Use your cell phone to take a picture back there if you can't see back there. There is a gasket on each head where the tubes attach. They can be removed with the intake on, but it is really tough, even with the intake off. Mine leaked and I just pulled them and put them back on with high temp silicon. Still working 3 years later. Mustangs have the same tubes in case parts are hard to get. Be very careful of the fans and belts when looking for the exhaust leak. Watch loose clothing and your hair (if it is long). If you can't find the leak, just go to a muffler place and ask them for a free estimate. They should find the leak pretty quick and tell you what's involved in fixing it. Then you can decide if you want to tackle it or pay them to do it.


they said to fix the lea anywhere between a hundre $12 the $25 is that a fair pric and I have another issu with the oil pressur I put the 15 W 4 oil in it like its lik oil and its like it's like suggeste but it still and I know the spedomete doesn't wor nor does the odomete and the needle for the gas gauge thin doesn't wor it just keeps floating back and fort and I was also going to put a2 quart oil filter and I was also going to put a 2 quart oil filter on there. And going to replace oil pump. Is there anyrhing i shud watch for while driving it. Its going to my sorta mechanic ( my uncle was mechanic for 40 yrs but hes really old now and wen he tried to fix my breaks he feel asleep under my car) I'll be taking it to him on Friday to do the oil pump and stuff my dad used to take care of all my vehicle problems for me but he died two years ago so I have no idea what I'm doing or hw much I should be paying but I just bought the vehicle before and I really dnt want to put alot of money in it. Only gt it to get through this winter after that idku


I have a 89 Ford F150 XLT Lariat 8 cyl 302 that had a fuel problem. It turned out to be caused when the butterfly valve got stuck in the middle. The butterfly valve has gas lines coming from both gas tanks into just one gas line that gos to the high pressure fuel pump on the rail along the drivers side door. Even though the tanks fuel pumps were good the gas was blocked by the stuck butterfly valve, After replacing it the truck ran again. They are hard to find and really hard to explain if you don't know what they are called.

5 of 5 people found this helpful.

i have a 1989 f150 with a 5.0 motor. what is the reason for the high pressure pump if it has a sending unit in the tank. does the sending unit supply the fuel to my high pressure pump.

6 of 6 people found this helpful.

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