I have a 1990 chevy conversion van,350 tbi,no problem in 5 yrs I've had it . got off hwy few eeks ago engine bogged down,kept stalling,I got stuck and was able to get it moving,running very rough 11
No problem in 5 years, huh, thats great. did you do any maintenance in those 5 years? Start with a tuneup filters and an inspection of the parts. Those distributors can need a rework in that amount of time. The vents in the body of the distributor must be kept clear of debris blocking them. The ashes and dried crispy parts inside should not come as a surprise. The secondary ignition parts may also have built up resistance. This all can need replacement to fend off repeat failure. The large voltage capability can overcome the resistance till every part gets cooked. Good news is, the replacement can be accomplished with hand tools. and attention to clean-up and use of silicone dielectric grease is highly recommended. note the gear is factory marked in lineup with where the rotor pointed.
I always maintain my vehicle. The problem is that it will not run with vac connected to map sensor
well so much for getting info to fix this
So the resulting signal that map is producing is very objectionable to your computer. what if the map electrical was disconnected? will it run then? and if it runs with the hose disconnected that is enough to say the sensor is out of whack. If the rest of your tuneup parts are in good shape and pass the inspection i suggested, then it should road test nice with a new sensor. after clearing the computer memory. since your vehicle is 24 years old, and i cant see it from here, i leave the inspection up to you.
Tell your mom you want a new van then.
But she has to be able to decipher the broken english and omissions. Complete sentenses please, people!
dumbass mechanic darryl
Thats the thing, you see other folks read this after we are through. If you express fragments, it is impossible to follow. If you have service codes and ran specific tests, it helps to say so. proofreading your sentences can be helpful as well. spelling counts. when you say EEC thats Ford. EEK thats a MOUSE. An 11 standing alone could be your age. Code 11 means you ran tests, have data, and received a code. Is THAT grown up enough for you? Since you had a code and ran tests, and improved your ability to start, May I say you are replacing the sensor? I wanted to know if it runs without it. Some do you know. To me, the failure is unusual, I expect that on Ford and Mopar. Because of experience.
We should also be thankful The software was well written enough to set a code to give you a clue. Other makes become trial and error on MAP and BMAP when they have 2 digit codes. This is part of why OBDII had to be mandated it would seem. Just an opinion of mine.
I had no code,check engine light does not work,,starting ability was not improved. I tried to start it earlier today and with vacuum applied to MAP it barely started,then died,better starting/running with no vacuum to map but dies in gear and obviously uses much more fuel. mechanic said that the sensors were ok and we tried several MAP sensors and cleaned the EGR & TPS sensors. I did not find any vacuum leaks. Fuel regulator inside TBI replaced,Fuel filter replaced,just will not run with vacuum applied to MAP. This is a 1990 G20. This happened suddenly when I got off the HWY few weeks ago,started bogging down when I took the exit and has been that way ever since,no way to safely drive it.
Thanks for the update, I feel almost as if I am there now. Can you get the check engine light working and read any and all codes? I must ask about bulb prove out. ck. eng. Lt. does not work when key is turned to on position? Or wont flash a code. Concerned about data comm. error.
Also suspect limp-in. and or injector(s) could be sticking or leaking. Plugs may foul if thats true.
I re-read our notes so far, question.. when cleaning the EGR and TPS Did any attention get given to the IAC? It is behind the TPS and the MAP. You remove and clean it. Then push,wiggle it back in. then install the IAC. Attempt to start, warm the engine. shut it off. Then the ECM resets it. since you describe a fuel problem, and wont idle, difficulty starting, and spark was perhaps given a clean sheet. then your map is giving you grief, The idle air circuit could be plugged or somehow causing. If thats ok, then the injector issues may come next.
we still need the ck. eng. Lt issue and any trouble code, or there may be an ecm and prom/cal issue i dont know.
The check eng light never worked since I have owned it,it does not come on when the key is in the on position. A few weeks ago I took the instrument panel apart to check the bulbs for the instruments and those are the only bulbs that work,some places where bulbs are plugged in do not work and I tried switching all the bulbs around,they will not work in certain places on the circuit board. .The tps,egr, and idle sensors were all cleaned with wd-40 and according to the mechanic they are sending the right voltages. I have new ignition wires few months ago,ALDOR oil plugs installed (van burns no oil at all with 196k miles on it,I just prefer a good spark plug that will not foul) by me 5 years ago and they fire up fine,inside of distributor cap and rotor cleaned,wires are correctly installed for firing order,pick-up coil sprayed with wd-40. This problem happened suddenly when I got off the hwy about 10 days ago.....then I got stuck again and had to have it towed and burned out the starter because it kept stalling about 20-30 times,real nightmare. I will see if I can get the mechanic to write here tomorrow. If I apply a little vacuum to the MAP with my mouth it does not stall ,but when vacuum comes from F port it stalls and mech says that is alot of vacuum from Fport.I cut a piece of gasket material and placed it over the original TBI gasket,underneath TBI the passages are ok
can you get the ecm to give a code 12 at the ALDL with a code reader?, or volt meter with analog meter sweeps? connect to the two upper right connector terminals. turn key on but NOT start. One pulse, then pause, then two pulses,then long pause, repeat, repeat.repeat, PASS. stored codes will follow code 12. each code will show three times before moving to the next code. If no codes are stored, 12 just keeps repeating. How many inches of manifold vacuum can be read at the "f" port. in other words, how much is alot? And if you have a few bucks, lets get a set of R43TS A/C delco plugs screwed in there please. you can put yours back in after testing if you like. Now why did you spray wd-40 on the pickup coil exactly?
If there is a u-pull-it yard of some kind near you, you might consider looking to see if there are parts you can get for quick guess substitution. I have found this to be cheap, easy, and afterwards i kept a cheap set of testing parts. The PCV needs a good, free moving valve, a good hose, and good grommets. Hard, loose fitting parts can cause starting and idle issues. Not sayin this caused your bog down, but if you were at the yard, and saw nicer parts.... You could also get a printed circuit if you saw one. I got a rebuilt dist. out there for 40 bucks once.
Ok thanks for getting back,some of this is new to me.I have an analog meter,----what is ALDL ?I have no code reader. Do you mean connect meter to the 2 upper right ports of the diagnostic hookup under the dash instead of the 2 upper left ones (a-b) ? NO lights flash on my dash,don't know how to get check eng light on,tried switching bulbs,nothing works The vacuum was not measured in inches because they have no vac gauge,but the vacuum is strong and it was always attached there. I bought a spark plug/wire tester and all plugs and wires are good,it does not miss at all,just a problem when vacuum applied to MAP. WD-40 was sprayed on pickup coil to clean it a little because there was some rust,but really could not get down there inside to really clean it. I cannot afford much because I am broke and homeless in a shelter and the mechanic is a 20 minute walk away and i do what I can.I really need to get this fixed so i an get some work Thanks for all your time ,patience and help.
A set of sensors and a couple injectors would not hurt either since yours are 24 years old.
We went to a pull - it yard and got a TPS & idle sensor and tried those as well as good used injectors. We tried 3 used MAP sensors and I tried one new one from Autozone,no change. Also mechanic had several computers that were similiar and none worked
Runs fine with no vacuum applied to MAP whether Map is plugged in or not,but you can see the injectors are spraying more fuel than they should,stalls when put in gear though. with Vacuum applied to MAP , hard starting and rough running,you have to tap gas pedal and even then it only will run for 30 seconds till it dies
I have not checked the PCV valve but the hose seems to be ok though stiff
the oldest pic i have in a manual shows pins the two upper right, when the wide flat of the hard shell connector is on the bottom. pin A being ground, and pin B being diag.
ALDL = assembly line data link
I will see if the mechanic can get online tomorrow and read this and ask questions because nobody can figure this out
The manifold vacuum reading startup cold. Then watch thru warm up. If you had a blocked exhaust, the reading would fall, as it warmed, and could not "exhale" . Does your rig still have a catalyst? and an O2 ?
I will see if the mechanic can get online tomorrow and read this and ask questions because nobody can figure this out. the exhaust is not blocked and yes it has a cat converter and an 02 sensor. half the muffler is gone and it is a little noisy
It seems your injector "on time" is too long. so it's fuely. When your computer objects, it sets a code. When it gets pist, it goes into limp-in. It fouls the plugs, runs rough, and tries to get suicidal. Plugs the cat, cant breathe, and bogs down. Hoping to be reincarnated as a vette.
I will see if the mechanic can get online tomorrow and read this and ask questions because nobody can figure this out. the exhaust is not blocked and yes it has a cat converter and an 02 sensor. half the muffler is gone and it is a little noisy IT runs fine when no vacuum is applied to MAP
Does runs fine mean you can drive it? if not, and it wont run keeps dying, and is fuelly. You need the codes. You read them by meter sweeps instead of watching the light blink.
I have to go and work here at the shelter at 4pm . I will go to the mechanic tomorrow like I do every day and see what I can do...thx IT runs fine when no vacuum is applied to MAP
First thing today is reread everything so far. You keep repeating it runs fine. Then you say it's overfuelling. dies, wont run at all, then back to it runs fine with no vacuum to map. If it runs fine, then drive it to a shop where a technician can pull the codes please.
Is your ecm inline fuse blown, like a 20 amp, possible inline fuse, by the fuse link buss where all the power wires go. and have you blew any other fuses? Your inspection may need more system prechecks for simple stuff. , and you can get a haynes for free at the public library by the way.
Library can also have a reference section, For MOTORs or MITCHELL manuals. 10c a page if you print. I looked at an 89 pickup today and the connector looks like the pic in a haynes book , like i described. check all the fuses and inline fuses and fuse holders. the test is run on the 2 in the upper right A and B since you say it runs fine drive it to get a code check, if you cant, then it does not run fine.
the mechanic checked with his scanner and there are no trouble codes. It IDLES fine when no vacuum applied to MAP but dies in gear and cannot be driven,so yes,it does not run good. They said the are going to spend time on it tomorrow and I will be there with them. All the fuses and connectors were checked,he just has to devote time to fixing it,I will keep you posted,thanks for all the advice.
Thanks for checking and replying But you should have a code 12 if it passes. hope that's the case. Now you would need to find a pinpoint test it does not pass even though you received the pass code. Feel free to reread. everything we shared. I went and found 2 G series to make comparisons. Question knock sensor retarding timing, and not setting a code as well as the other things i gave you. Hope you find it!
Actually the knock sensor wire is disconnected from the sensor,mechanic said it did not make a difference,....but I will have it connected....going to mechanic later this morning. Thanks
so idles fine, means if it is in park or neutral, it continues to run without any assist from the driver. But it does not idle in gear. thats poor idle quality. thats not OK
The knock sensors are disconnected on the ones i was able to compare to. the knock sensors can cause timing change with or without spark knock because of the fuel quality available. yet there are no codes set in these i checked, they have a working service eng soon lite, and arent lighting it for a malfunction. Thats where yours differs.
PROBLEM SOLVED Finally found out what was wrong and it's embarrasing. Fuel pressure finally checked,very low so it was thought pump was bad. Took pump out and there was a one inch gash in the small rubber hose that goes from the bottom of the fuel pump to the top,so it was losing a lot of pressure. !.% inch piece of 5/8 fuel line and 2 clamps and a new strainer solved the problem. Pump is fine and I can finally drive it. Thanks for all the help.
good for you, your mechanics initial clean bill of health for the tune up was where it was missed then. fuel parts were replaced and sensors cleared, but tests were incomplete. testing tools were unavailable i suppose. imagine if you were charging a customer by the hour, whew. it's a nice thing to hear you found it.
i went back and reread, the fuel was excessive, using too much. we thought your computer was in fixed rich limp in. we did not see at that time what you have for a result. another one for the ages.
since it was a hose failure, i would point out to anyone who reads this that some hoses provided with aftermarket can be questionable and cutting what you need from a length of fresh fuel system hose can last longer than what comes in the package. I nearly had a 72 fuel leak get out of hand from aftermarket supplied hoses and clamps. when i bought a cheap filter. lasted three months. sounds like yours was replaced maybe once in 24 years. not too bad.
yeah the hose that was on there was thick,but soft,had one inch gash and there was a late model engine lying around with a small piece of fuel line on it so i cut it to fit and put everything back together,nice to have a lift to work with !. hose was like new so no problem.
nice find, hooray! dont get any speedin tickets hahaha
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