Rear wheel locked
My 97 GMC k1500 left rear wheel locked up. How can I tell if it's my brakes my hub or gearing.it moves in reverse and lock back up in drive.
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Our experts haven't test driven this car yet.
Our experts haven't test driven this car yet.
Our experts haven't test driven this car yet.
Our experts haven't test driven this car yet.
Our experts haven't test driven this car yet.
My 97 GMC k1500 left rear wheel locked up. How can I tell if it's my brakes my hub or gearing.it moves in reverse and lock back up in drive.
1996 gmc sierra 1500, 350 engine. Idles fine but under load misses etc. Have changed spark plugs, wires, cap and rotor button, cam shaft postion sensor, coil, mass air flow sensor. Now it wont hardly run at all with mass air flow sensor plugged in, unplugged it runs good. Any suggestions on what it could be
98 GMC 1500 V6 4.3 Vortec 120K miles Sat for 8 years in Pacific Northwest (rain) We are in a remote-ish area without electronic diagnostic tools. Dropped tank, new non-OEM fuel pump, new spider assy, new dist cap and rotor, plugs. Improved from no-start to almost-start: runs briefly if gas sprayed into air intake. Gas pressure seems good enough to start (no gauge - we cracked the fuel line - indicates decent pressure). Question - what is the logical next step (long drive into town)? Option A: check codes and check line pressure accurately first Pros: Fastest and wisest. Cons: Need to $$ on gear we will never reuse. No guarantee it will give codes because it wont run long enough; We know we have 'some' line pressure - enough to start at minimum so more precise reading doesn't necessarily help resolve the no-start. Option B: Try 'one more thing'. Pros: Any $$ invested is directly in cart parts that will benefit long term. Cons: I have no idea what the 'one more thing' is that makes the most sense; Assuming enough fuel pressure to start and the fact that it will start with gas assist - what is preventing a new injector assembly from outputting enough fuel to start? ICM [failure] seems to be the only part that would cause this condition. Or? And, if true (ERG, cam or O2 sensor and/or worn Distributor shaft will only affect performance after start) can we test the ICM or is it a buy it and try it proposition? Thanks for reading! :-)
Lights all worked,parked truck for 4 months,no driver side brake/signal light,all other lights work,just changed bulbs,fuses are good.