2003 Toyota Spyder MR2
Car was stored a few months new battery. Showing charged when tested. Turn the ignition and it just knocks knocks knocks. What could be the issue

The 2003 MR2 Spyder saw a number of changes from the previous year. The sequential manual transmission went from a five-speed to a six-speed, fog lights were standard, and the gauges were redesigned. The exterior also got a facelift, including a new front end, new head and taillights, and color-keyed intake vents.
The 2003 MR2 Spyder came in one trim level, with very few available options. The handful of choices included leather seating, the SMT, and cruise control. The engine, which was mounted in the middle of the car, was a 1.8-liter, 138 horsepower four-cylinder. The transmission was a five-speed manual, and it had rear-wheel drive. The top is designed to sit flush with the body of the car when down, so no cover is required. Fuel economy is about 25/32.
Drivers of the 2003 MR2 Spyder readily admit that it is a for-fun car only. Owners say the trunk is practically nonexistent, the space behind the seat can only hold a briefcase or two, the seats can get uncomfortable during a long drive, and it can be downright dangerous in the snow. Still, Spyder owners love their cars because it is fun to drive, handles well, looks good, and comes with typical Toyota reliability.
Car was stored a few months new battery. Showing charged when tested. Turn the ignition and it just knocks knocks knocks. What could be the issue
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I have a 2003 MR2 Spyder with SMT transmission. I need some advice and/or information to rectify the problems I am having with it. The car is in great shape and only done 43,000 miles and I love it The car has had regular fluid checks/oil changes/maintenance/etc. I bought this car in March 2014 and was checked out by 2 mechanics that advised me it was running well and in good working order. As I only used it during the weekend,I have on put about 300 miles since buying it. About 3-4 weeks after having the car, I wanted to improve the sound choices. I took it to have it fitted with a blue tooth device using the cigarette lighter port in the cabin.After testing it out I decided not to go for it. The seller removed it from the cigarette port and as he pulled(Tight) it came out with the port.He pushed it back .I started the car and put it in gear and nothing happened.I tried reversed and was the same.I turned off the car and called my mechanic who services other car.He had no answers.I tried again and when I revved the car it moved but sluggishly.I droved it home slowly about 8 miles with it beeping most of the way using all the gears, about 10mins later the beeping stopped. I parked the car and left it for about 3 weeks .I got different mechanic(mine was away) to go for a drive with me started the car and drove 1 mile with the beeping and I came to my house i put the reverse and the car came to a stop.So got the code read but can not remember the codes, I think it was the sensors.He advise me to change the clutch, reluctantly I said yes and a Toyota clutch was changed. After the clutch change, we started the car to test it but nothing just N showing, not moving but if you put it in any other gear just beep..beep. Left the car for another few weeks until my mechanic came back.He put his car compute on Toyota and read the codes. X431 DIAG Report LAUNCH SMARTBOX: 980244449600 Total codes 5 P0808 Clutch position sensor circuit high P0810 Clutch Position sensor circuit error P0917 Gear shift position circuit high P0934 Hydraulic pressure sensor circuit low input P0942 Hydraulic pressure unit C1553 Processing when reset occurs during running. So my mechanic said he was going to check the wiring, he said after checking he thought it could be the computer transmission control. There is no body that can definitely say , so I am not spending anymore money until I get an expert to advise.I paid $9000 for this car and had 8 drives in 3-4 weeks! Please can you advise me? Any help would be appreciated ,Should I get it scanned again?Do you have to reprogram me after a clutch change?What is a relearn?.Do my mechanic have the right scanner?I do not want to take it to dealership as they are saying I need more part replaced with unbelievable costs associated to do it. My mechanic this week looking at the sensors and actuator assembly, what he found was there are 3 same sensors in the assembly,one was broken, the other had weak signals and the other was fine.Each cost about US 250, should I replace them with new ones or should I go for the option :monkey wrench racing is selling a secondhand complete actuator assembly with the sensors that was taken out of a working car for about US700.What should I do??? I am searching for help and advice on either selling it , help on fixing it with advise/expertise IF ANYONE HAS IDEAS OR HAS HAD SIMILAR ISSUES WITH SMT - Please let me know. I NEED HELP!
When I open the drivers door I can hear the hydraulic pump priming noise as I should. When I turn the key forward all of the dash lights come on, the doors lock automatically, the neutral light is indicated. My foot is pressing on the break. Once I turn the key all of the way nothing happens. No noise, no engine turning over, nothing. The other times the car starts just as it should. There is no rhyme or reason. Nothing that I can see is out of place or different. I checked the battery and it is good. Any diagnostic suggestions?
Does anyone know where to obtain a hard top for this model?
Airbags
Dual front airbags
Audio System
Antenna Type: power · Single disc in-Dash CD · AM/FM radio
Brakes
ABS: 4-wheel
Comfort Features
Shift knob trim: leather · Steering wheel trim: leather
Convenience Features
Multi-function remote: trunk release · Steering wheel: tilt-adjustable
Lights
Exterior entry lights: security approach lamps
Mirrors
Exterior mirrors: power
Seats
Front seat type: sport bucket · Upholstery: cloth
Tires and Rims
Wheel type: aluminum alloy
Windows
Front wipers: intermittent