Sudden NoCrank w/ code B2101 (start signal low) - 2013 Chrysler T&C
Sudden NoCrank, NoStart..only slight click near shifter. 3 FOBIKs (keys) recog'd, van battery charged, electronics working. Getting code B2101 (start signal low). Only issue that day: glitchy old FOBIK constantly locking van & tooting horn..retrieved new key to start & discovered NoCrank (MAYBE did something to WIM or TIPM??). Glitchy key hadn't created NoCrank issue before..just unexpected toots while driving or when nearby with key in pocket. MAYBE related: Is Steady Red ETC light for 20secs at KeyOn normal? I've never seen ETC light while running..didn't notice it before at KeyOn since van always started right up with quick key turn (guess my great luck just ran out). COULD the ETC possibly trigger B2101 (start signal low) from WIM or TIPM as safety? ...EVEN w/no other codes (only new B2101) History: I'm DIY techie-geek..MANY engine, electronics & accessory repairs. I've done a TON of reading & diagnosing last 3 days...some helpful ideas...LOTS of conflicting info & pointless, unintelligible AI videos. Have mid-range scanner w/live data, memory & reports 3 mos ago replaced radiator for squirting leak on battery-side plastic..running fine since w/no issues or CEL. (No sign in TIPM..suprisingly 'new' inside when inspected below) Previous Code B2232B (Vehicle Configuration Mismatch) after setting a few other things with AlfoOBD w/OUT any starting/running issues...just hadn't gotten to resolving it. Phoenix summer heat...Started/Ran fine in 118F previous day..no crank happened early next morning @90F after using both DS doors & issue with glitchy old key constantly relocking van. Maybe some slightly rough idle for a while..just occas light 'stumble'...wasn't too concerning...no CEL or codes. Put new battery in FOBIKs (I tried all 3) Scanner shows keys recogn'd w/ good signal for accy, run & start. Tried NEW 12V Battery & cleaned cable connectors (tho old battery load tested OK) Car battery removed & swapped multiple times..no battery for 12hrs overnight..cables held together to drain capacitors...so multiple system resets. Key left in run position for 30 min w/connected battery charger (supposed to override some kind of lockout) Sadly, no Remote Start on Van..worked for some folks when key didn't Inspected wiring OK in DS Sliding door Inspected wiring OK in DS door. Checked & cleaned engine compartment GNDS I could find (2 on DS wheel well, 1 on top of trans, 1 near AirFilterBox) Brake switch works (brake lights illum & scanner shows switch working). NoCrank in park or neutral..scanner shows correct position. One slight click near shifter when turning key to start (won't click again until cycling brake pedal). Recalibrated accel pedal (could see output on scanner)...just in case it was related to ETC light at KeyOn TIPM removed, disassembled & cleaned inside. Only minor powdery residue on 3 large pins top board, PCBs & pins looked & smelled OK ('like new', no sign of radiator leak inside). Cleaned all pins & reassembled. Cleaned & tested all fuses good. Moved relays around. Didn't get far with WIM-TIPM test..Couldn't check signal @pin 30 on C7, car seems dead with C7 disconnected. Can't reach wire or pin when connected (Battery impedes TIPM being pulled out far enough). SO, I'm wondering what to chase next???? Local Dealers & Auto Electronics shops would have to order WIM or TIPM anyway...AND I like to know details about issues in my 'roadtrip' vehicle so I have a clue & a plan when traveling. I typ don't just start replacing parts w/out more info..but always willing to start with most likely, cheapest parts. MUCH Disassembly of Dash needed to get at $$$ WIM (YT video for less disassembly, but have BAD experiences w/ bending-twisting-breaking plastics brittle from AZ heat) Can I 'force high' pin 30 @C7 on TIPM (start signal) w/out causing other damage? ..JUST to move van out of friend's driveway (Tech advised similar to resolve unrelated 02 Caravan ECU problem..work miracles) ANY other ideas welcome.
