why my heater does not switch from front vents to defrost?
heat works but will not switch from heat to defrost or vents wont change position
Our experts haven't test driven this car yet.
Our experts haven't test driven this car yet.
Our experts haven't test driven this car yet.
Our experts haven't test driven this car yet.
Our experts haven't test driven this car yet.
Our experts haven't test driven this car yet.
heat works but will not switch from heat to defrost or vents wont change position
My car cranks but won't start acts like its getting no fuel. Fuses and relays are good. No check engine light and i can hear my fuel pump hum upon turn of the key. First time ive had any issues. I need advice on the problem.
I need help to figure out what my Chrysler 2000 LHS needs to be done to it or what is wrong with it it will not go into don't go past neutral and it don't go into drive My
CHRYSLER 2000 LHS I call her The Millinamun!! But took her for her emmisions and it failed because mechanic says no electricity is coming out from my car... THIS IS WHEN HE PUT THE CORD INTO UNIT UNDER STEERING WHEEL....funny how he says this cuz my sister while gave me her car told me she messed with the fuses!?? Dum dum dum can't believe this shit! 4 tickets later and still fricken get her passed... Mind ya stereo don't work heater is messed up on and off and have lights of course for me to drive....
I have a 2000 LHS with 137,000 miles on it. I acquired the car when the previous owner had given up trying to fix what seemed to be an overheating problem. The car has been impeccably well maintained and for the last 6 years it was only driven during snowbird season (about 4 months out of the year). It is a gorgeous car and I was willing to pay to have it fixed. The previous owner had replaced the water pump, timing belt and thermostat. Whenever the temp gaug3 started to rise, he pulled over and to his account, the car had never actually overheated. Like I read in another question on this site, my car will run at normal temperature for 5- 10 miles and the temp gauge will start rising. It never loses power even when the gauge says the engine is too hot. And the temperature will go back to normal quickly when any one of several different things are done. Turning the heater on, obviously. Punching the gas pedal and keeping the RPMs high for a few seconds. Putting the vehicle in park and letting it idle. Putting it in neutral and revving the engine to about 3500 RPMs for a few seconds. All of these things will drop the gauge to nearly normal operating temperature. It never loses power. It has also never had a heating event that caused coolant to steam from the heat of the engine. We've not noticed any coolant loss or seen evidence of engine oil in the coolant or vice versa. All fluids are full and clean. No problem with the AC or heater. No squealing of any belts. I took it to the dealership because I figured if anyone could diagnose the problem, they could. They did their usual preliminary diagnostic tests and the related sensors were sending the proper signals to the PCM and the cooling fans were functioning properly. They tested the cap on the coolant reservoir tank, etc. They said there may be an issue with the coolant flow and wanted to replace the thermostat. And if that didn't work, they wanted to replace the water pump. Both repairs had been done previously but they would not do further diagnostics until they replaced the thermostat. So I authorized the repair. And it still had the overheating problem. They did some sort of pressure test that measured the gases in the engine (?) Or was supposed to indicate a cracked block or something to that effect, but the test results were normal. Honestly, I tuned out after they said replacing the thermostat hadn't worked. The next steps would be to replace the water pump again. And if that didn't fix it, taking the motor apart and sending the cylinders to a machine shop to have them measured to see if they were warped. Whatever. I had them return the car to me. It runs the same as it ever did. Strong even when the gauge pegs up. No loss of power. All systems operational. I am at a loss. My husband keeps telling me "The car is not overheating. It's the gauge". But then why would doing any of the things I mentioned earlier cause the gauge to drop, if the gauge wasn't working to begin with? And how do I know if it IS overheating if the coolant doesn't boil up and out of the engine? Are there any electrical type components that should be replaced alongside replacing the gauge? Sorry for the long post. I'm truly at a loss and I really hope someone has an answer. Any answer. Thank you.
Air Conditioning
Automatic climate control front air conditioning
Airbags
Dual front airbags
Audio System
Single disc in-Dash CD · Premium Brand: Infinity · AM/FM radio
Brakes
ABS: 4-wheel
Comfort Features
Shift knob trim: leather · Steering wheel trim: leather
Convenience Features
Dimming rearview mirror: auto-dimming · Memorized settings: driver seat · Multi-function remote: trunk release · Steering wheel: tilt-adjustable
Lights
Exterior entry lights: security approach lamps · Headlights: Auto on/off
Mirrors
Exterior mirrors: heated
Roof
Moonroof: power
Seats
Front seat type: bucket · Upholstery: leather
Tires and Rims
Wheel type: aluminum alloy · Wheels: chrome
Windows
Front wipers: intermittent