Chevy impala heater not working

190

Asked by Jan 19, 2014 at 07:43 PM about the 2011 Chevrolet Impala LT

Question type: Maintenance & Repair

6 Answers

300

If it's not blowing at all, could be the blower motor or blower motor resistor (most likely the resistor). If it IS blowing but just won't get hot, it could be a few different things- a bad thermostat, a head-gasket leak, or air in lines or low coolant in reserve tank because of neglect. I'll make this as simple as possible. If there's no little puddles of coolant in the driveway, it's pretty safe to say it's not a gasket (which is a good thing, 'cause you're looking at a $1000+ repair bill for that). If your car isn't running hot (the gauge on the dash with the C and H, which the needle should be right about in the middle when the car is running at operating temps), especially at stop lights and such, it's not the thermostat (a MUCH cheaper fix (about $25-$35 for the part, but kind of a pain to do because it's a pretty tight spot). So check your coolant reserve tank (to your left of the engine block) when the car is cool and hasn't been on for at least a couple hours. There is a fill line on the side of the tank to show you how much coolant to put in. Chances are, if the reserve tank got too low, air got into the lines. This, too is an easy fix. First make sure the reserve tank is properly filled with coolant. Then unscrew the radiator cap and, if needed, top it off, leaving yourself a bit of room at the top to screw the cap back on later. Then locate the hose going from the top left (your left) side of the radiator to the engine and squeeze it, starting at the radiator and making your way toward the engine block. This will squeeze air (and a little coolant) thru the hose and out of the open radiator cap. With the hose still squeezed, close the radiator cap tightly, then let go of the hose. Look again at the reserve tank and top off to the fill line with coolant if needed. Then all you need to do is drive it around for a little while (maybe 15-20 minutes after the cooler fans kick on) to get the coolant temp up, which will force any remaining traces of air out of the lines and into the reserve tank. Once all the air is out of the lines, you'll have almost enough heat coming through the vents to light a cigarette! It takes a little time, but it really is an easy fix that can be done at home, saving quite a bit of money over taking it to a shop. Hope this helped. Good luck! Oh and p.s.- I don't know if Chevy still put dexcool in the '11s or if they switched back to the regular green anti freeze after all the issues they were having with gaskets, but the two DO NOT MIX!!! They will gum up you system something horrible and cause all kinds of serious issues!!! So check the fluid first. If it's green, you're good to go with basically any regular antifreeze. If it's orange, it's dexcool, so get that (it's about 2-3 times more expensive though, depending on where you go). Or if you wanted to switch from dexcool to regular green antifreeze (I personally prefer the longevity of dexcool though), you could always flush the entire system out completely and refill with the green stuff. Anyway, there you have it. Like I said, it's a pretty easy fix to do yourself and save some cash. Hope this helped...

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Thanks i will try this today

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I have any issue with my 2010 Impala. The heat works but the fan doesn't. Turn the key to the on position and turn on the fan and it will be on low no matter what setting it is turned to. Turn the car off and try again sometimes the fan will turn on but will be at medium or High. It will stay that way no matter what setting I turn the fan to.

Derek, This seems to be your blower motor resistor. I just had the same problem in my 2011 Impala about two weeks ago. The part is about $50-$60 at autozone and it's pretty easy to change yourself. I changed mine out and it is back to working normal.

My 2011 impala has great working heat and AC but I have a tapping noise. All the time. 2hat is it? I wanna fix it, it's so annoying.

Tapping noise in your dash it is the actuator because mine was doing it and I done some checking they said if it's in the dash and not the one in the glove box it would cost $400 because they have to take the whole dash off to fix it

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