2007 Camry, changed alternator and missed most important step. disconnect battery. power line arched off engine I now have no spark

Asked by Nov 30, 2016 at 10:50 AM about the 2007 Toyota Camry SE

Question type: Maintenance & Repair

29 Answers


Sounds like it's time to start checking fuses. Do you have a 12 volt Test Light....or....a Digital Volt Ohm Meter? Look in the fuse box under hood. Do You see a 80/100 amp Fuse?

Checked all fusesunder dash and hood except I can't get the 2nd large fuse behind the large one with the copper tab on it out.plastic tab a pain

Also when I arced power line nothing was hooked up, alternator wasn't even installed yet

And no on the 80\100 amp fuse


Ok....I am going to assume the Engine in this vehicle is a 4 cyl. I also assume the wire that shorted to ground is the fat wire attached to the Alt. Am I correct? That wire has 2 protection devices in line....a 120 amp Alt fuse located in the under hood fuse/relay box...and a fusible link which is part of the wire itself. Suggest you use a 12v test light or a DVOM to check that 120amp fuse.

I have power to the alt


"I have power to the ait" What does that mean? How are you checking for "power"?

Used volt meter on main power to alt. Got 12


WELL....I am not sure where you are with that volt meter. Suggest you find that 120 amp ALT Fuse under the hood and use your VM to see if there is 12 volts DC on both sides of that fuse. You can also Check the wire that accidentally sparked to ground and see if you have 12 volts DC at the ALT end of that wire. What color kis the wire that arched? If you have 12v on the FAT wire going to the Alt....then we have to start trobleshooting the Ignition System Circuit. Is this a 4 cyl Engine?

This is the last fuse to check. I can't get it out

And yes I did push the small tab, it won't come out


Look under the Fuse Box Cover. How is that fuse labeled? Now comes the hard part. I think that fuse is held in with bolts. You might have to remove that fuse box for disassembly. If you can ID the fuse...then we can Google the procedure for removal, Don't forget to DC the Battery.

The one next to it is the one bolted down, had that one out, it was all good, this one has a small tab ya move with a small screwdriver. I'm using small channel locks to pull on it but it won't come out. Don't want to pull too hard. Already chewed the plastic a little

Those 2 aren't labeled, and the owners manual is a joke!! There wasn't even a belt diagram on the fan shroud or owners manual


Check this out.


Second try


As you can now see....that !@#$%^ fuse is bolted in. It has windows on the side so you can see if it's blown. Can you see the windows with the fuse in place? It appears to be more than ONE FUSE.

Aaahh!! Bolted from bottom. 1st one was bolted on top, wouldn't think both would be bolted especially with the plastic tab on the side.

After pulling the front fuse I was able to check 2nd one. All good


Ok...so now let's redefine the issue. This is a 4cyl Engine. Correct? The Engine Cranks over well...but...will not fire up(Start) Correct? You appear to Fuel Pressure but no Spark? id you check for spark at each ignition coil?


Suggest you check 2 fuses. Ignition #1...and...Ignition #2....located under the Driver's Side Dash.

Shouldi be reading any output on these 4 prongs while starting, or I should say attempting to start?

Also I have checked every fuse both under the hood and dash


Those 4 prongs got to the Voltage Regulator onside the ALT. Unknown if you will see any V coming out of those prongs. However...The prong that takes the Blue wire goes to the ECM. The Prong that takes the Red wire goes to a 10 amp gauges fuse #1. The Prong that takes the Yellow wire goes to the Charge Indicator Lamp on the Dash...then....a 7.5 amp gauge fuse #2. The Green with a Red stripe goes to the 7.5 amp Alt Fuse. Do you have any Volts on the 4 WIRES ...when the key is ON? BTW That big FAT BLACK WIRE....do you have 12 volts on the end of that wire...even with the KEY OFF? IF NO.....It's .back to square ONE.

Could any of this also have to do with theft deference system. I've heard that disconnecting the battery can trigger certain systems.

I do have 12v to the big blk wire, that was check point 1. Wasn't sure on output in this case. When I arced it the alt wasn't even in. I wasn't sure if there should be an out put during initial start or if it had to be fully running to get one


Regarding the Theft Deterrent System. Indeed this could cause a no start condition. I cannot remember what the Manual Reset procedure is. Suggest you check out the Owner's Manual or...a Google Search. That fat black wire to the Alt is connected to the pos. side of the Battery.....and therefore should have 12v all the time . Thist voltage should go to about 14v when the Engine is running indicating the Alt. is attempting to charge the Battery. Why not attempt a restart with the spare key? ...and...lets find out more about the Theft DS.

The owners manual should be cut into 3 inch strips and put on a roll. To summarize it says consult dealer for all situations. There wasn't even a serpentene belt orientation diagram. So back to the question, should there be power output during cranking cuz if that's the case I've had a bad alt all along


Concerning those 4 prongs on the LT. From where I sit...they appear to be INPUTS from the ECM Computer and various Fuses as noted above, you should be seeing voltage at the 4 way connector that plugs into the Alt.... with the Ignition Key On. A Google search should yield info concerning the TDS if one exists. Welcome to the world of today's complicated vehicles. Just think what the average Mechanic of today has to know in order to make a living.

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