stalling problem with 96 dodge neon
when I first started having problems with my neon it registered that it was over heating, but there was no steam or gurgling and the water was full... The car shut down like it was over heating but wasn't... restarted right up and ran fine... a few days later the car lost all power and wouldn't start at all for about an hour.... The check engine light, oil light and battery light all came on and one by one they went out.... Now the car will start and loose all power after about 10 minutes of running, then will start up again about 5 minutes later once the car has cooled a bit... all lights come on and go off one by one.... any suggestions as to what the problem might be... recently replaced oil pressure censor and cam censor... Could this be the Temp Censor???
Get a new battery, clean the connections especially the one that goes from the battery clamp down to the frame/chassis....clean that one, and the one that goes up to the engine, make them have good connection again...don't forget to clean up the positive...don't be afraid to use the gardenhose, that way you won't get acid dust in your eyeballs, better still have the battery installer guy tend to all the engine/chassis connections, and tell him about the problems....mr.acid fingers~
overheating could be electrical, if you've got a little electric cooling fan, be nice that way you would not have to worry about the waterpump and thermostat~.....yes, I stand by my assessment your problems will disappear with renewed power and ground~
Thanks for getting back to me, I have a battery that is a few months old, new terminals as of last week... clean the connections as you said and still have the same problem.... the car tries to start after it looses power, but only starts after it's been sitting a little bit....
hmmm....power ain't getting thru. have somebody clean the starter connection to the battery, maybe will turn with some guts then, barring a practically new battery....the electric cooling fan start coming on? no overheats?
you can get a new t-switch for your fan from Autozone~
have your diagnostic trouble codes read at autozone, they'll do it for free, seeing as you told us the check engine light came on would be foolish to proceed without this info~
the fan comes on like it should, no over heating... and the engine light comes on but goes out again... pulled codes on my own and all I got was a start and end code..
hmmm, goes off...sounds like you're overfilling the gas tank. Stop at the first click...often if we're poor like to top it off to the nearest dollar....please NO, this will screw up your emmissions system and will take months to correct itself.....so STOP ON THE FIRST CLICK...please? your engine light will not come on for emissions then~
chokin' the emissions control can make it stall out...you know this could have been your problem all along....chokin' with the gasoline!
yes shebleedz is kinda creepy lol... not sure on the over filling part, usually at a half or tank or so, but will check into it... thanks.. if not I'll let you know before I run it into a phone pole in the next 10 minutes it runs
guess it's something that every woman has to be a part of the scene~ It's about having kids. y'all can keep 'em, and perhaps the next bucky fuller or einstein will materialize~ no seriously, why would I kid?, these systems are sensitive to the evaporative emissions part of the EPA requirements~
I have a 98 neon that was doing the same thing it took me a while but figured out that the cars coolent sensor was bad so I changed it. About 20 dollars. Mine ran excellent for a while but started up again after I worked on my exhaust. Turned out the wires were to the collant sensor were all connecting and causing a short. So check both of those it fixed my car and it runs perfect now.
For the battery part make sure your negative battery wire that travels down toward the starter is still connected. My cars broke off its connected right by the starter. I replaced that....no more problems
Collant sensor code is P0118
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