1999 Chrysler Sebring LXi V6 2.5L
My chrysler has a problem which I can't seem to fix. It started when it was taking a little bit to start, then it eventually was taking a lot longer to start or wouldn't start at all. I've changed spark plugs( and wires), IAC sensor, distrubutor cap, and since I did that it still took a bit to start but when it does start it will run great until it warms up and then it will get choppy and will just run like absolute crap. Then I changed the IAC valve and it ran but still kinda crappy, felt like there was not a lot of power behind it anymore. ANY help will be appreciated
I also recently have been trying to change the 02 sensors, nobody can tell me how many it actually has it either has 3 or 4, I've seen 3 so far but they were in front of the catalytic converter, does there have to be a downstream sensor? could bad 02 sensors be the cause? other information-drop in gas mileage, occasional gas smell, fuel pump does turn on, when running and warmed up it starts to miss and gets progressively worse, still having trouble with starting(doesn't seem to be firing at all)
I am having the exact same issues on my '98 LXi. I have yet to replace any sensors as I want to be sure there are no vacuum leaks. Please e-mail firstname.lastname@example.org if you find the answer, if you wouldn't mind.
Hey I have the same issue with my 2000 sebring convertible JXi. When i took it to my mechanic he said it is most likely the fuel pump or a clogged filter on the fuel pump. mine now occasionally will turn off on me when idling as well. If or when I get a chance to do the repair on the fuel pump i will let you know
I just replaced IAC valve, idle control sensor, and pvc valve...car idles great for a few minutes then stumbles. When I try to drive it, when coming to a stop it dies. After restart it runs rough, I hold idle at 1500 for a few minutes, starts to run fine, and then repeats the cycle. ????????????????? HELP!!!!!
I have a 99 Sebring lxi i tried to start it but no spark it will crank but not start i've changed the distributor $260, $ 36 plugs, $50 wired, $7 rotor, and $35 cap and still no start but guess what it was to cause this ($85 FUEL PUMP) change the fuel pump first before doing any other work will save you a lot of money$$$$$$$.
I'm curious, but when you cranked it and it wouldn't start could you smell gasonline?
The last time I got my car running I took it for a test drive and it did the same thing that yours was doing. While driving did it seem like the response time of the accelerator was slow and that there wasn't a lot of power behind it?
If there is absolutely no power at higher speeds, it could be your catalitic converter (I had that problem with a different vehicle). I put a new egr valve in it (the old one was definitly bad) and it ran great...for a while..now it won't start. UGH!!! The accelerator seemed ok, it did have a slight pause before kicking in but had plenty of power.
change your EGR valve it will fix it.
its always the easy stuff + they are known for it.
I have a 99 lxi coupe. My throttle cable pop... My car keeps running hot but it has water in it and all my floods are good. I dont know why it will not start. I have had this car since February and I had to get a new alternator, distributor caps, spark plugs, oil change, radiator, and brakes. What do you think could be the problem?
@ shica I had a similar issue last year after I had my coolant flushed, apparently it has to do with the fact that the radiator needs to be blead. You are supposed to take the top hose and pull it toward you and slowly pour the coolant through the hose not through the radiator cap, until the coolant starts to over flow and cme out at the end of the radiator cap.
I Have A Chrysler sebring lxi 99 my car shut off on me but its spinning over but just will not crank up ive changed my spark plugs, whole distributor, transmission filter , crank sensor but still no crank it just spins over its not my fuel pump cause it comes on when i turn my key help me somebody please .
I am hearing idle control valve and or sensor but mainly fuel filter and pump most likely. parts are about 225-350 Canadian. it has many components to fuel system that it can be and most are right in gas tank with pump. labor is about 132$ hour Canadian shop rate at dealership. could get up there. they will diagnose with OBD hook up and it should throw a code of some kind. some people were changing plugs and coil and distributor which is a lot of money so don't jump to conclusions right away until its properly diagnosed.
@Shica, Thermostat, @Allothers, A lot of questions, no answers on this thread, not a good sign. For anyone with starting problems, check your ASD relay (Auto Shut Down). Can google location and price (Around $15). ASD Relay, Distributor, Rotor, Distributor Cap, Ignition Switch, Fuel Filter, Fuel Pump, Crankshaft Position Sensor, Spark Plugs, Spark Plug Wires all can play a part in not starting, rough idling, stalling, and general "crappy" running Sebrings. Start with inexpensive parts first, then move through the list, since the cheaper parts will need to be replaced eventually anyway.
@Danny, I've changed my thermostat. Everything in that car is new. I just dont know what's wrong with it. I heard it may be a electrical problem. I dont want to put anymore money in this car and looking to sell it.
I have had the same issues that everyone seems to have with this vehicle. I have replaced the EGR and still shut down while driving, I have replaced thermostat and clean up coolant temp sensor. May need to buy new one. I thought I fixed it because I ran car about 50+ miles over weekend and did not cut off but last night, car cut off twice and second time, took about 45 minutes to restart. I have reset my remote alarm thinking it may be that as well. I have also heard may be ignition switch. Don't know why Chrysler has not recalled these vehicles for this issue
My 99 Sebring has a sensor that cut the fuel pump off when you run out of gas which cuts your ignition off. Don't know what it's called but it took care of the problem. Car would restart after a short time.
I have a neighbor that has a 2000 Chrysler Cirrus and was running very badI was changing the plug wires there was a couple of them that were melted and burnt up I change themwhere the spark plugs where it was full of oil so I had to change the valve cover gaskets now it won't start I change this plug wires first and it wouldn't start after that
Just on the back side of the intake, right by the firewall on the 99lxi coupe is a small pipe that comes from the egr and pipes exhaust back into the intake. Two bolts, pry it out a bit and block it. Check light will stay on but no egr to buy!
Just on the back side of the intake, right by the firewall on the 99lxi coupe is a small pipe that comes from the egr and brings a bit of exhaust back into the intake. Two bolts, pry it out a bit and block it with a small fabricated piece of metal. Seal it good. Check engine light will stay on but no egr to buy!
I had the same problem as most of you. A mechanic friend of mine told me to check my spark plug position. Sure enough it was off. I then had to reset the engine to top down. Worked like a charm. Hope this helps some of you.
I have a Chrysler Sebring lx coupe 2.5 v6 had it going 5 yrs, first off this car is not cheap when it comes to repairs . My car would crank up fine but 10 to 20 mins within driving it it would cut off , sometimes it would crank back up sometimes it would take up to a hour to recrank I had no check engine light on . Mechanic told it was spark plugs and wires after paying for a tune up ($160) it continued to cut off it still stalled to crank come to find out it was a cam shaft sensor which is made with the distributor so you will have to buy a distributor Which is around $200 - $260 not including labor . So I know how you feel hopefully this will help . And my past repairs were , throttle cable , power steering belt , alternator , battery , starter , ball joint , engine coolant sensor and another sensor idk the name of .
I just replaced the Crankshaft Position Sensor. My 1999 was experiencing shutdown issues at random intervals. Didnt matter if engine was warm or cold, nor did weather make a diffrence. It would just DIE. Sometimes restart right away, sometimes after anywhere from 10 minutes to a few hours.Its not a very hard job but having slender arms helps. My biggest problem is regaining trust as the problem was always intermittent and I am afraid it's going to happen at the wrong time. I have been experincing a lopey idle latley and im not sure if its a vac leak or ? It always runs high ( around 1100) upon start up then slowly comes down to normal (900ish) hot,cold,rain,shine,never a difference then it bounces from 900 to 1200 back to 900 and its getting anoying. I have replaced Plugs,Wires, Fluids,Filters and fuel sys cleaner.Im stumped
1996 thru 2000 all have a problem nobody has talked about yet. What is wrong is the ground at the ignition switch one small screw on the switch holds the switch in place and at the same time grounds the switch to work the copper on the switch corrodes the aluminium where it is mounted making the screw loose so there is a bad connection your car will still crank but not have spark or gas from losing the ASD in the crank position no need to buy a switch just clean the connection removing the screw takes a small tamper proof torque socket. The good news is you are not stranded to start your car until you get it fixed turn the key to the start position and manually close the starter relay. location is under hood just aft of the Positive jumping post you will find 4 square relays it is the one closet to the left front headlight pull relay out remove black plastic cover reinstall and touch it with your finger on the side to manually start your car.
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