2006 VW Beetle battery keeps dying (fuse 42 and 14 draw)

90

Asked by GuruVJ6PQ Sep 23, 2018 at 10:25 PM about the 2006 Volkswagen Beetle 2.5L Convertible

Question type: Maintenance & Repair

2006 VW Beetle battery keeps dying.

Battery and Alternator are new and good.

I did a parasitic draw test in mAmps and at first the draw was 0.56 and then I
pulled the radio fuse and it went down to 0.20. I pulled fuse 14 which says
"interior lights/central locking" in the manual, and the draw dropped to 0.02.

The radio is a standard radio, I don't think there is an amplifier or new
accessories put on the car to be draining the battery. The only thing that is a
little different than other different brand cars I've seen, is that this beetle
doesn't have the little pieces that move when the doors lock/unlock. All it is is
a red light that turns red when locked, and the light turns off when unlocked.

The radio stays on even when car is off and without key. I figured this was
killing the battery months before and had pulled the fuse. After a month, I
could see that even with the radio fuse out, the car would die in 2-3 days.
That's why I did the parasitic draw test. Now I don't know why the fuse 14 is
drawing so much power.The interior lights haven't worked (other than glove
box and trunk lights) since I got the car two years ago.

Please help! I don't want to change the radio and buy a new one, if the wiring
is the problem. And I don't know how to figure out why fuse 14 is having so
much draw. I don't know what to do next.

9 Answers

9,530

Are you absolutely sure about the battery, vehicle electronics including the radio all draw a little current. Try this for a parasitic drain test, replace your multimeter with a test light, Does it lite up bright, dim or flash slowly from dim to bright. If it stays on bright you have a drain if it's dim it's probably normal and the battery has been dead so many times it's now toast. You do have a problem if the radio stays on I would check for a leak across the accy side of the ignition switch. Also start checking the courtesy lites by checking bulbs. I hope this helps you

3 people found this helpful.
90

Yes I am sure about the battery. This problem was happening even before we replaced this battery. And we made progress finally. I unplugged the 42 and 14 fuses and left the car sitting for 3 days without turning the car on or anything. Before the parasitic draw test, we only unplugged the fuse 42 (radio). By doing this, instead of dying overnight, it would die in 2-3 days. But now that I unplugged fuse 42 AND 14, I left the car sitting for 3 whole days, and the car has not died, the battery still has the same power in it, and turned on today with no problem. The battery charge yesterday was 12.11, and today it was 12.16 after the car was turned on once today only for about a minute.

9 people found this helpful.
9,530

Everything I know (I 've been a mechanic since 1972) tells me 0.60 ma is not only acceptable but common, check online with the company that built your battery to see if they've changed the spec to something else, because I still suspect the battery but don't count on me check with someone local that you trust. Sorry

2 people found this helpful.
100

My 2006 Beetle Convertible keeps having the battery die. I replaced the battery last winter thinking it was an old one. Still dying this winter. Have to be sure to remove keys when getting out of the car, because the battery goes dead. This is my fun car, so not driven daily, but often. Shouldn’t be having these issues with a new battery. Any suggestions on why this is happening.

10 people found this helpful.
120

My 06 Beetle Convertible has a parasitic also. I am reasonably sure this is all related to door latch position sensors. Strangely my issue can be resolved by engaging the lock/alarm on the vehicle. Draw is nearly 0.55 Amp while unlocked and all doors closed after the settle down period it may drop to 0.48 Amp (which is NOT acceptable unless your car is an hourly driver) But when hit the lock button on the FOB the locks click locked and the alarm lights start to blink armed... and the draw drops to 0.03 Amps and holds till I unlock it again. Go figure? There are too many sensors on these cars for their own good.

7 people found this helpful.
120

By the way I assume you are testing with a multi-meter set to 10amps rating for the test and it says 0.56 Which means 0.56 Ampere that is 560 Milliampere. (multiply the electric current value by 1000). Most research I have done appears to suggest that most cars should not draw more then 50 Millampere or (0.05 Ampere). I would be curious to know if yours (with the fuses restored) goes to 0.03 if you engage the locks/alarm as well.

3 people found this helpful.
10

Thank you for the usual help Jason as my 54 plate convertible has started doing it. Brand new battery fitted in January and if I leave the car for more then 3 days it won't turn over. Had a micro swift fitted on the passenger door last year and had to use the key this time to open the car so perhaps the car still thinks the switches are engaged.

1 people found this helpful.
70

2006 VW Beetle. Same problem. It is not the battery. Thats what I thought. Have replaced 2 times. That makes 3 batteries. I think it is an issue with either door latch modules sticking (replaced driver side but still have issues) or its the relay assembly way up under the dash. VW gives no schematic of the relay board and its going to be such a pain that I haven’t pursued it. I have scoured the web and this is a common problem. I know VW has to know of this issue because too many people have taken their beetles in and the dealer has not always been successful finding the problem. Sorry for rambling but I have spent so much time troubleshooting this issue that I see red. I cant believe VW hasn’t put a bulletin out. Just my 2 cents worth. P.S. I’ll never own VW again. I can’t even sell it with. clear conscience.

7 people found this helpful.
10

On my 2002, fuse 14 is for the interior lights. The switch that turns them on and off when opening the doors is a part of the latch mechanism inside the door. This switch is the subject of many Google results when diagnosing non- working interior lights (Mine stayed on and did not power off after the 35- 45 minute timer, so I had to use the switch AT the light to shut them off).

1 people found this helpful.

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