no spark from ignition coil
It's most likely the crankshaft position sensor. It's mounted on the bellhousing. Easiest way to change it is with a really long extension and swivel socket from the bottom. Looking at the engine from the rear, the crank sensor is at about the 11:00 position. They're a little tricky to get at the mounting bolt, but if you're fairly handy with mechanical things, it's not too big of a deal. I did one in about a half hour on my '96.
Had the same problem same year of Jeep. Changed the crank position sensor and seems to have cured the problem. Is a bit of a bugger to change but it is do-able.
crank sensor bad which lets the computer know the engine is rotating so start feeding fuel and send power to coil
So your engine is cranking..fuel is ok and needless to say your car has not seen a new shiney new part in awhile. Simple things are the obviouse! Grounding straps and connections. Most folks forget that makin that engine shine means water and solvents can creep in and disconnect the " bond " between engine and ECU....check grounding locations between engine block and body. If the engine cranks but, does not fire...think about the many times the " ignition switch " is used....1000x's. Hope this helps.
I have a 94 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo 4x4 straight 6 4.0. It started dying on my while driving. It did it periodically for a couple months then it started happening even more. Finally it would die while I was driving and as soon as I shut it off it would crank but not start. Normally after it sat for about an hour it would start back up. Replaced cam sensor/distributor pick-up, crankshaft sensor and fuel filter. Among changing u-joints and fixing the exhaust. Drove it after that it did great....drove for about 20 minutes and it didn't die. Well I decieded to shut it off about a mile and half from my house like an idiot I listened to my uncle and did it. Well it wouldn't start, ended up towing it home. Replaced the coil and nothing....replaced thermostat, found out it was stuck almost completely shut, engine barely had water in it. Started up fine a couple times then back to just cranking. Switched relay for fuel pump and ignition and starts up runs great then after about 20 minutes shut it off and back to just cranking again. Fuel pump does work. Replaced distributor cap as well. If anyone has any idea what it could be please tell me. Thank you
I forgot, my coil isn't firing but its new, not sure if its because of the wiring from the cranksensor or what but both are brand new will check wiring though.
Have a 95 olds 98 coilpack no spak Change coil and module.
this forum is probably old and no one is still watching this post but my 97 jeep grand cherokee was just doing what everyone is complaing about and i had replaced all the same stuff. coil o2 throttle positioning sensor all that and it finally took a shit today in the rain and i was reading these posts and checked my computer conection and they were fine but i jiggled connection while running and it stated messing up and put back and was fine. eachtime i moved harness it would act up and harness is realy loose at the comptuer at the connecter closest to the fender. check it out and see if it helps you.
My 96 has the same problem and there's no power to the coil and a changed the crankshaft sensor and still nothing the fuse box clicks and so does the evaporation canister
my 97 Cherokee has the same problem many parts been replaced
I have a 95 oldsmobile 98 modile it was driving fine only had it a few weeks it started cutting off while driving it like it just lost power no noise no knocking slight vibration from time to time but would crank back up in less than a minute but then one day it did it same way but this time it want start back up turns over all lights come on but want start has fuel pressure fuel pump working,starter fine,battery fine changed crank shaft sensor and spark plugs n wires and coil pack but still not spark I'm lost .......
My escort had the same and after replacing coil pack, wires, checking all connections it turns out it was a bad ignition switch. Too many keys caused tumbler to short out
Also check power relay which is inline between ignition switch and I ignition module. Ford used these often found behind glove box
It was ignition module it runs now but still stalling occasionally but saw somethin bout a coil pack housing
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