Car starts and it shuts off/loses power
I have a 2003 Audi A4 Turbo.93K on it.
When I start the car, the engine starts and as the RPM gauge goes up, it just goes right back down, the car shutss off, as if it can not stay on, sometimes its starts, but 95% of the time it needs more than 3, 4 times to try until I ge tit going, sometimes 6-8 tries. I wen to Audi, they replaced a sensor or two, a new car starter and still nothing.
I would like to ge this fixed, it is anoying and embarrasing when yo iuare at a parking lot and you need to to try 5 times to get it started.
There are no gas fumes/smell
any advice would be greatly appreciated,
Did the replace the Mass airflow sensor? How about the idle air controller?
I have no idea.. I will call and ask them... this was 2, 3 years ago. But those could be the issue?? Also, I I have no check engine light on. Thanks, Rez
sounds like evap canister valves went bad
could be lot of different thing though: high press fuel pump, water in the gas ( ethanol absorbs water ), airflow sensor, idle air control valve, evap vent valve stuck open, fuel press reg
you my friend most likely have a vacuum issue. \n check out these few options 1. loose or faulty electrical connections at, Distributor, coil or alternator. 2. Insufficent Fuel reaching the fuel injectors. vacuum leak at the gasket between the intake manifold/plenum and throtal body. 4. intake air leaks, broken vacuum lines. 5. Contaminated fuel. I have the haynes book and it lists off most comman issues and that is what it reads try that out and see if you can find an issue. my 1998 audi stalls in high heat where its ran for some time then left to bake in the sun normaly i jsut have to shut the key back turn it on which my foot to the floor on the gas peddle till it starts and it ussaly runs fine after that.
Guys, thanks for all the input. Now, I am making a list of the potential issues that you guys mentioned, and i am going to my local mechanic and ask him if he could pinpoint which one needs fixing... is this a good approach? Obviously I can not replace/fix all those parts, $$$$. Any other way to approach this without breaking the bank?
well what you can do is get hte garage to check the fuel lines pressure its really not to expensive, checking hte vacum lines is easy enough if you remove the engine cover, and if you can get the engine running all you gota do is spray the lines with soapy water and find the bubling ones and replace as you go. if you got a telescoping camera you can use the same spray soap with the throtal body its located normaly at the back of the engine under the main vacum lines. and as for checking the fuel just try changing the fuel filter it is most likely cloged if you have not changed it in over a year or so and use a volt meter on the coil pack or just pull a plug put it next to some metal at the tip and give a quick crank this is best checked in the dark
Hey Deathjam4, i am having the exact same problem as yours with my A4 B5 1999.5
Car starts fine and runs god normally when it is not too hot and the ac is not running. Days when it is hot and i have driven for a bit, then leave the car out in the sun and then drive for a bit, the engine just stalls. To get it started, i have to push the gas peddle a few times and it starts with the turn of a key. What did you do to fix that? It is not the best thing to happen when driving around a lot of traffic, and embarassing at the same time!! Also, FYI I have recently started noticing some starting troubles with my audi, i have to turn the key for a longer duration to start the engine. Sounds like it wants to start, but is not getting the right amount of fuel it needs. Could it be the fuel pump in my case?
Your describing a temperature sensor issue. I had this happening with mine where the car runs fine before i park it in the sun then have to put my foot to the floor to start it after its sat a bit. There is a throttle body temperature sensor mounted in the top od the intake Replace it with a dealer part its about 100$ and it will solve your problem. Also clean your MAF Mass airflow Sensor while your down there. Sending 2 pics so you know what to look for
Thanks Deathjam4. I somehow felt the issue was more related to the fuel pump as I can feel the engine starving during hot weather. With everything in mind, I will take time out this weekend to figure out if this solves my issue and post back. Cheers
yea hot weather and the fuel pump wouldn't be a problem Provided your tank is more then 1/4 full or more at all times. The gasoline keeps your fuel pump cold and working at optimal heat levels. So if your pump is going you will hear it sputter and making grinding noises while it trys to work which in turn means its either got crap in it or it is just simply waring out. And Np hope it fixes the issue for you it did with mine on cold and warm starts.
Cant see the second pic you added. I have now got to the point where the sensor connectors but what next? Can please upload
Found the sensor after opening the screw holding it in. The issue I now have is that the sensor is not immediately available from any of my local stores and they say will need to be sourced from Bosch (and can take upto a month...haha stores here dont keep these handy). So as a workaround and while this is done, I got the sensor out and gave it a good clean with some kerosene. After drying it for a few minutes and cleaning with a dry cotton cloth, I have pushed it back in with hopes that is works for me till the new one arrives.
the best place to locate the sensor is at your local vw or audi dealer. You can also find some online auto parts websites that can have a new one to you within a couple days. And cleaning the sensor will defiantly help it.
Ok, so the sensor has now arrived and I replaced it in my car yesterday morning. I hope this has sorted my problems, though I did note that the car took longer to start on one occassion during the day but has been good otherwise. I can live with an occassional starting problem, but just hoping the car does not stall on a hot day. Well, summers have only begun here in Au, so guess itvis going to be tested very soon. Thanks Deathjam4 4 ur advice. Have a good Christmas n a happy new year!!
not a problem feel free to message me if you have any more issues i often check my mail daily so should be able to get back to you in quick order to help trouble shoot. And Merry christmas and a happy new years back at yea hehe
Audi 1996 stalls during traffic stop. It shakes as the RPM drops. Any help please. write me at vprincemike@ gmail.com plz.
that sounds like a fuel issue. Check your cylinders for pressure. also check the vacuum lines there is along one that goes over the drivers side of the engine that tends to break due to the heat and its for idling speed. also check your crank case hoses. they are attached to the head cover. The older model cars tend to get blocked up after long periods of time. Also change your fuel filter if its been well over 2 years.
My 1998 Audi is doing the same. I assume it's something to do with the fuel pump.. My car only starts well in the morning., have to keep my foot on the gas for maybe 30 seconds so engine can stay on but after its starts my car runs well.. To avoid embarrassment from trying to keep starting it yesterday I keep my car running to pump gas and my car turn off on me.
you can't fill your car while its running the gas tank is a vacum while its running and this can cause damage to other parts in your fuel system and engine such as misfires or fouling plugs. And if your car is the 2.8L engine the reason it is stalling is most likely due to a bad or carbon covered throtal body heat sensor which is mounted right in top of the throtal body air pipe. Replace the sensor and clean your maf (mass air flow sensor) and you should be as right as rain.
Hey deathjam4, Im new here and to VWs as well. I bought a 98 Passat 1.8T and the issue I'm having is that with the MAF plugged in the car stalls out every time! it will not stay running. I replaced the MAF with a new one and still same issue. If I unplug the MAF car idles and runs fine it appears. Any thoughts?
well this could be a number of issues my first thought would be the emissions system is not working correctly. Try going under your car and check the charcoal canister and all the lines as well. It was very common for the evap line to rot off in the drivers side wheel well and cause vacuum issues and stalls. also check all the wireing you can find. It would also be a good idea to pull the inner wheel well out where the evap vacum box is in the rear drivers side. I opened mine up one day to replace that line in my audi and found a mouse nest right ontop of that opened filter on it which caused alot of issues.
Thanks Deathjam4, I will take a look this weekend and report back.
I have a Grand Marquis It wouldnt start at all. I was told it was the fuel pump. I just changed the fuel pump and now it starts but wont stay started for more than 15 seconds what else could be wrong?
have them check the fuel filter If a pump goes faulty it could clog the filter up as well. Any other problems would be related to spark or air. Clean all the sensors in the air system such as the MAF(Mass Air Flow) sensor. Also have all the spark plugs changed out for new ones if they have not been changed in over 60,000 km. If they are new check them for carbon build up.
I have a problem with my Toyota corolla 160i 1998. The car starts but won't idle. I had my computer box fixed by an auto electronic,Someone told me that its my computer box and. Because I repaired the box it needs to go in for a reset and that I should take my car in for diagnosis. Should I take the advice and do so?
I'm also having the same problem with my 2001 A4 Quattro. It'll start but then I'll start driving it and it seems like its losing fuel pressure because it just stalls out and then the "brake light failure" sign comes on, then it won't start for a few tries.
Hey my 2001 audi a4 drive good if i keep my foot on the pedal but stalls out when im at a light or at home....mean after driving it then parking my car and leaving it run for about 10 minutes it stalls out. I have change my fuel relay,fuel pump,fuel pressure regulator and spark plugs still at need off help
did you not clean your maf (mass air flow sensor) ? that is the first thing you should a looked to clean. Also check your vacum lines and the crank case hoses. they are the plastic hoses attached to the heads that lead to the thortal body.
No but i unplug it the car run funny the reconnect car run normal....i spray the lines down do not see any leaks either
thats because your not supposed to unplug it... you can seriously screw up an engine doing that. Take it out clean it with maf cleaner. Either remove the sensor from the body or the whole body to clean it and the mesh. and idle issues are commanly air issues with these cars. im attaching a picture so you know what im talking about. The crank case hoses commanly after old age need replacing cause they end up like the picture bellow
Example of a dirty crank case hose ussaly causes stalls and idle issues.
I have a 2003 Audi A6 3.0L and When I start it, It just shuts right back off. The Electronic Immobiliser is flashing I don't know what to do someone please help!!!
Put your key in the igniniton and turn it to power on (do not crank it over) Leave it there for 15 minutes. After 15 minutes turn the key back to power off then try starting it again. This should reinstate your key back to the car. Your only other option is to call a locksmith and have them recode your key. or have vw/audi do it.
Hey Deathjam4. I hope you can help me too. I have 2004 passat check engine light went on, found out it was code p0303 ignition coil in cylinder 3 and had coil replaced. Now it shakes a little when stopped at light. And the past 3 days it has turned off when on reverse at random moments and if it doesnt turn off it stalls when place on drive right after reversing. Even flooring it it takes time to actually drive. If i replace spark plugs will this stop. Or is it something else??
the most likely scenero is once you replace all the plugs the problem should go away. When a coil pack goes its ussaly recomended you do so after replacing it because ussaly this will foul out the plugs that is having the issue. If i were you i would instal the best bosch plugs you can find with the 4 prong sparker they give you the best performance to gas mileage out of all them.
Hi Deathjam4, For the last week, I have an Audi A4 and it seems like my car wants to cunk out. When I first crank it in the morning, I feel the urge to put my car in reverse quickly so it won't stall on me. I took my car to the Audi dealership and they told me that my turbo needs to be repaired for 3000.00 PLUS the thermostat is going bad. Is the anything I can do to avoid this big expense?
well unfortunately if the turbo is in fact going you are expecting a large repair there. Turbos are not cheap even for rebuilt ones. If you can check for play in the bearing it it is in fact loose you might be able to do it yourself or at a garage that specializes in vw's and audis for cheaper. as for the thermostat have you noticed any cooling or heating issues? as in the gauge is siting above or below the 90degree C line ? normally this part is replaced at timing belt changes which at the dealer is another 1400$ for a 2.8 or 1000$ for a 1.8L which is probably what they are quoting you for and if the thermo stat is going bad i would just take the time and effort to replace the timing belt and pulleys and water pump to go with it cause either way its a 8hr job for that repair. a brand new turbo charger for this car is roughly 500$ on rock auto and you can probly do it yourself if you know what your doing. which would save money.
Hi Deathjam4 Am hoping you can help me. I have an Audi a4, 1.8, 2000.....sonetime back it could only rev btwn 2 and 3. Now it cant rev at all.to make matters worse it cant even start, when i force it to start it wud start bt wud vibrate when in its idle state and wud not engage gears..as it goes off even you engage the gear...its been to 3 dealers so far bt none has fixed the problem..they hv changed fuel pump,cleaned air flow srnsor, filters and transmition oil, diagnosis shows everythibg is okay except the oil sensor light (yellow light) bt still no change...what could br yo advice
i would think the first thing they tried is readopting the throttle body. You can do a basic one on your own. Just unplug your battery leave it for about 15 minutes before plugging it back on. Next with the hood open and drivers side door open (not sure if this step is really necessary yet) put in your key and leave it for 3 minutes. You should hear a bunch of wiring and clicking noises from the throttle body. once the 3 minutes are up put hte car to power off close the hood and door and try to start it normaly. This may or may not help but its worth a shot and rebooting the pc should help clear out any old data that could be causing issues as well. But with rpm problems i would either say its a crank sensor, throtle body, or wheel sensor thats gone bad.
yea if you go take off your wheel or turn it enough you can see behind the wheel there should be a cable that runs down to a sensor that reads the revolutions of your wheel hub assembly for when the axle turns. Picture will show you what your looking for.
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