started stalling and dying when in gear

Devin Oxford
75

Asked by Jul 28, 2008 at 01:27 AM about the 1994 GMC Sierra 1500 C1500 SLE Extended Cab SB

Question type: Maintenance & Repair

350 motor
4L60E trans

Motor wants to stall while in gear (but doesn't do it out of gear once over 1000 rpm it dosent) seem to stall and it is only from a dead stop.  Fuel filter has been replaced and TBI was rebuilt last April but it sort of used to do something like this when it was like 40 degrees or below.

44 Answers

littlehorn
35,425

Could be torque converter lockup solenoid in the trans.

6 out of 6 people think this is helpful.
Jason Schiers
95

my experience with my 93 yukon was the idle air control moter.

6 out of 6 people think this is helpful.
Stephen Orr
20

Does it do it when it warms up? if once its warm it stops tryin to stall then i would say its the cold start injector, i am pretty sure thats my problem aswell im just waiting for the right price befor i buy it.

2 out of 2 people think this is helpful.
Chris Yager
105

with the condenser for ac on or off?????? hmmmmm

1 out of 1 people think this is helpful.
Chris Yager
105

i suspect tpi or map sensor. or even dirty pcv valve or worce pluged egr check for vac preasure on hose going to to pcv and for pcv valve to ratle when you shake it

3 out of 3 people think this is helpful.
Devin Oxford
75

Already fixed it was the fuel pump mine only had 8 psi where normally they have 12-17 psi. Feels like a brand new truck it now has lots of power and doesn't stall anymore

5 out of 5 people think this is helpful.
Rwolfe
430

I have a similiar problem as devin, my 95 Sierra 4x4 it has a 350 5.7L engine and the fuel filter has been replaced I cleaned the injectors out and put a new gasket on. The shop said I have good fuel pressure but I am choking out even when not in gear. but I can keep it running if I pump the gas. I was told it was the cadiladic converter but that was not the issue. Once it is in gear It will not stay running unless you use the 2 foot method and it is very rough and wont run for more than a minute. It never did this untill I got it back from the collision center after I was hit in the front passenger side?

20 out of 20 people think this is helpful.
CHARLESCPEYTON
20

i WENT THRU WITH MECHANIC CHANGING EVERYTHING, IDLE CONTROLLER, ETC. finally THEY CHANGED THE BLACK SENSOR ON THE THROTTLE BODY LEFT SIDE AND IT FIXED IT. THIS WAS NOT THE IDLE CONTROLLER, IT WAS A BLACK PART ATTACHED TO THE ACTUAL THROTTLE BODY. NOW i AM ENCOUNTERING HARD TRANNY SHIFT INTO 2ND GEAR ETC SO ITS A CONTINUAL ISSUE BUT i THINK NOT DUE TO THE CHANGES OF ALL ITEMS AND THEN BACK FROM THE INTAKE MANIFOLD UP.

2 out of 2 people think this is helpful.
jackedup92
170

i have a question!! just recently swapped motor and trans out of my 92 gmc 1500 with a motor and trans from an 89 1500. it will crank and idle perfectly and i can rev it up with pretty good throttle response. soon as i drop it in reverse or drive and give it gas it acts like it wants to die and sometimes does.if i play with the throttle i can get it going but it hesitates bad. only changes that were made was i had to swap the throttle body unit off the 92 to the 89 motor cause of cruise control and different iac plugs. do you think this is a spark issue or fuel issue? any help would be greatly appreciated.

17 out of 17 people think this is helpful.
sickofthis
20

The problem is, everyone has the right answer (WRONG) ! You'll have to take it in and have it checked..........or waste time and money listening to these people and change every part they tell you too. This is why it's a waste looking on the net of a sulution

2 out of 2 people think this is helpful.
AaronSquire
255

You know Mr. sickofthis!....I disagree with a lot of the answers here, but a few were good answers. The fact is there are so many different possibilities that can cause a single issue it is hard to diagnose online but sites like this are meant to help by giving you a place to start checking. I have been a mechanic for over 20yrs and am myself finding an issue with my own vehicle which I have never ran into before. Which is why I find myself on this site. I have been experiencing a similar issue and am concerned it is a lockup problem which is one answer given here. And also before the problem got this bad had also suspected low fuel pressure due to pump or clogged filter just hadn't had a chance to check it yet and wasn't to concerned about it till things got worse. I was looking on this site for someone experiencing a similar issue who may have found a fix. And so another answer and fix was fuel pump which I already suspected was a possibility but with the way my truck tries to lung forward during trans engagement I am leaning towards lockup solenoid or at least something trans internal. My point with you though is if you have nothing helpful to add then shut up and stay off the site. Go wine someplace else. Sorry if I have offended anyone here by saying so, but people just piss me off sometimes. And I am not adding anything useful now either so I too will shut up. I hope at least someone finds what information I did add to be helpful. And just a quick note if you do suspect one of these to issues to be your problem, start by checking your fuel pressure, if that is ok and you have no other codes that could relate to this issue then go to the trans. Egr, if stucjk open could cause stalling, but will cause rough idle as well which I dont have and the pvc has nothing to do with it at all unless it is a vacuum leak in the line going to the valve. Like I said though there are lots of possibilities. Good Luck everyone and again sorry for unloading a little on Mr. sickofthis!!

14 out of 14 people think this is helpful.
Jhooks
140

I've got a 94 1500 step side 5.7 l v8 when I put it into gear I have no power. The code it said was wrong was the MAP sensor , so once I replaced that it still didn't run when in gear, I've replaced the MAP sensor, TPS , pluge, wires ,cap rotor distributor, timing chain, temp sensor, injectors, fuel pump, fuel filter, AGR valve . the truck sounds like a brand new right off the line when it in park but as soon. As put it in gear it wants to stall, any other ideas???

12 out of 12 people think this is helpful.
1994chevy
110

Have the same issue with a 1994 chevy k2500 truck. Have changed just about everything on the list above. There is no code given. Have changed the injectors, timing, fuel tank, fuel pump, fuel pump, map sensor, cooling temp sensor on front of block, rebuilt the tbi, air idea valve. None of this hasite helped. The truck starts and dies. Have to give a little gas to keep running. While driving have to 2 foot it so it won't die. Wants to die when I come to a stop or slow down to make a turn.

8 out of 8 people think this is helpful.
1994chevy
110

Fuel filter has been changed also. About to change the fuel pressure regulator. I hope to get it fixed soon. Any help would be welcomed.

2 out of 2 people think this is helpful.
Jhooks
140

1994chevy got mine fixed, I had to replace the throital body , runs great now.

2 out of 2 people think this is helpful.
AaronSquire
255

Ok guys, Here is what I found! My issue was on a 90 chevy, but would effect anyone who has a lockup convertor. My issue again was engine runs great but would stall imediately once put into gear, however if could get truck rolling 10 miles per hour or so it would not stall but noticed also that I would never see or here an rpm change for O.D. which is because my lockup convertor was stuck or hung up in O.D. Which was the cause of my stalling. When a vehicle is stuck in O.D. as some do when O.D clutches are locked or burned together or in my case the lockup convertor staying locked in, it is like trying to take off with a standard transmission in high range. So it will stall. Replaced the convertor and everything is working great. I hope this helps someone in the future.

5 out of 5 people think this is helpful.
AaronSquire
255

Guys, I am back with same issues again after replacing converter. Explained in my post just above. So it seems all this was caused from a faulty pump. Just above the lockup solenoid or TCC solenoid inside transmission,( if you dont know where it is an internet search will show you), but if you remove the two bolts holding it in and remove it you will see a flat washer with offset hole held in with snap ring. If you look through that hole you will see a valve. You will only be able to see the bottom of the stem on the valve about 3/8 inch in diameter, just guessing could be more like a 1/4 inch, but in any case, that valve should be seated firmly against the valve retainer (the washer I mentioned with the hole) In my case it was not, It was stuck in lockup position up in the bore. I used a pick and worked through the hole till I got it to release then unpluged my electrical controls from transmission to prevent the lockup or tcc solenoid from activating and locking the valve up again. This worked fine untill I had time to fix it properly. I later pulled transmission and removed pump. Pulled pump apart and found the pump was worn and looked like possibly some shavings from the pump had gone through the valve and scored the bore enough that the valve wouldn't move freely, in fact I pushed it up into bore several times on the bench and it wouldnt ever. I replaced the pump and again am all good. Now, I could have polished the valve and its bore just a bit and maybe installed a stiffer return spring, but polishing probably would have been enough might be worth trying. With the right tools like a pair of long nosed inside snap ring pliers to get the snap ring out and a pair of long needle nose pliers might allow removal of valve in vehicle. A bit of polishing and you might be back on the road. I didnt want to tear back into it again though so I opted for the sure fix and replaced the pump. Because the valve is in the pump and I knew replacing it would get rid of any issues causing the valve to bind and curiosity made me wonder why the valve began sticking to begin with. Again I hope this helps and helps put an end to mr sickofthis telling everyone an internet search is useless. If you have read this whole thread then you know what I mean. Good luck guys!!

5 out of 5 people think this is helpful.
AaronSquire
255

Jhooks, glad you are fixed, was about to suggest checking for vacuum leaks around intake and throttle body as this will sometimes set a map code if severe enough

1 out of 1 people think this is helpful.
AaronSquire
255

I have read through other post in this thread and my solution only fits with Devins complaint, would be glad to try and help others with their issues if I can

vride
30

I have a 1993 /350 chevy goes dead even setting still when warm put the brakes on dies put in gear dies come to a stop dies now it well start but wont stay running if i use the two foot miethed it dies as soon as i put in gear or put brake on

3 out of 3 people think this is helpful.
MattD83
10

Shot in the dark, but anyone on here from the kitsap county area? Washington state? I would rather someone look at it before I do a motor swap

1 out of 1 people think this is helpful.
MattD83
10

I have a 1993 gmc suburban 1500 sle. It dosent die, it idles great but will bogging down after 1/4 throttle. In gear only. I have not checked compression and the entire fuel system has been replaced, and the tbi has been rebuilt. The cap rotor wires plugs, and coil pack have all been replaced both coolant temp sensors egr map icm, and intake manilfold gasket.

MattD83
10

I can't figure it out and this motor is clean, I'm I'm about to install my 89 350 in it. But the 5.7l in the 93 idles perfectly.

AaronSquire
255

OK, as everyone knows it is hard to diagnose if you cant get your hands on the vehicle, but lets try. When you say you replaced entire fuel system, what does that mean, because this sounds like a fuel issue. Unfortunately on these, most have no fuel pressure test port, which makes it difficult to test fuel pressure. However there are ways to determine if fuel is the problem. When you say you replaced entire fuel system I have to assume that means the fuel pump in the tank and the fuel filter. If you have then that likely eliminates that and notice I said likely you can get bad parts, in fact I just replaced a pump for the second time in a jeep that failed almost instantly after install. In any case, lets move on for now. Do you have access to a timing light. If so you will need to get some help with this. Remove air cleaner housing and connect timing light. Start vehicle and get someone to hold brake, put in gear and increase rpm untill begins to bog. At same time use timing light to watch injector spray pattern to see if spray begins to decrease as it begins to bog down. If so you can verify by spraying carb cleaner into throttle body as it begins to bog to see if it picks back up again, if so you know it is a fuel issue. WARNING: Do not stand in front of vehicle while performing this test. If engine picks up when carb cleaner is sprayed into throttle body vehicle could lung forward. Also just not safe, anything could happen. Stay off to one side!! Now if you have verified a fuel issue, then remember there are several things that control fuel. You mentioned replacing the coolant temp sensor, but I would suspect most likely to be in the map/baro sensor. It is mounted on the passenger side of intake on a bracket. It will have a three wire connector going to it and a vacumm line connected to it coming from rear of throttle body. I assume you do not have a scanner, or atleast not one capable of reading live data. So lets take the map/baro out of the equation by disconnecting the three wire electrical connector then running the engine again and trying to replicate the problem again. By disconnecting the connector the ecm no longer sees the map/baro, so it tries to run the engine off a preset variable. Start here and see what you find.

AaronSquire
255

There are other things,possibly even tps, but lets see what you find and go from there, I am not a believer in just throwing parts at one

MattD83
10

I have not pressure tested the fuel system. I had some one sit in the vehicle with it in drive with their foot on the brake. I manually increased the throttle and watched it increase the amount of fuel coming from the injectors even when it bogged out

MattD83
10

It seems to have a slight miss in the idle Akari up try this when I get home

MattD83
10

Well my number 8cyl has weak spark and ideas?

AaronSquire
255

I need further explanation. How did you come to this conclusion? Did you what the spark by putting wire near ground, or just remove #8 wire and didnt see rpm change, please clarify

AaronSquire
255

An engine miss on a single cylinder is can be caused by many factors. Spark plug, plug wire degredation, cracked or corroded cap, or internal engine problems like worn rings, (which can happen on a single cylinder generally due to an intake gasket leak near that cylinder drawing in dirt) or stuck, bent or burnt valves. Internal engine problems can be isolated by performing a compression test , but again I need to know how you determined week spark so we can direct you to the most likely cause and get you on the right track for a repair quicker

MattD83
10

I removed the 8 plug and started the motor, obviously you could hear the compression stroke.lol. noticed the plug was completely fouled and it's only a week old. Anyways obviously that was the plug with weak spark. However, the truck runs the same if the number 8 is hooked up or not. Hense a good sign of internal engine issues

MattD83
10

The main question that resides is whether it's a valve or a ring issue. The intake manilfold gasket was replaced last weekend. So that can be ruled out. The gasket was seated with the correct sequence and torque spec. I also went a little over kill on the rtv. Completely surrounded the gasket top and bottom before proceeding with a gentle 6 step torque sequence

MattD83
10

The question that plaques me is how to determine if the valves are bad or the the rings are bad without dismantling the motor?

AaronSquire
255

An overkill of rtv as you stated is not a good thing. When the gasket mashes,the spill over into the intake runner can break off and get sucked into the engine, usually just a 1/8 inch bead across front and rear is all that recommended, but that is beside the point now. In any case, you can buy a relatively cheap compression tester at O'rielys or Autozone or possibly rent one through their tool rental program. If you have long threads on plug then use the long reach adapter, if short threads just use without adapter. Be sure not to over tighten. They have an o- ring seal so dose not need to be very tight. Remove coil wire or disconnect coil electrical connector to prevent engine from starting, Open throttle to full throttle position then crank engine about 10 revolutions. You will get a more accurate reading with all plugs removed, but it is not necessary to do so to get a baseline reading. after cranking the engine note the reading on the gauge. Do not know specs off top of my head, but should be somewhere near 120 psi or so min. However, have seen engines run without noticeable issues with one cylinder being as low as 80 psi. Now if your reading is low, you can squirt a couple of tablespoons worth of oil into the cylinder then run test again. If compression comes up then usually indicates its your rings that are faulty, because the oil you added helps seal around the rings momentarily. If it does not change or has very little change then likely valve because what little oil might make it up to the valve isnt enough to seal it and most would stay seated around the piston and never reach the valve. Downside though is that if your compression rings are good and you have a failure with oil control rings only then a compression test may show good compression, but may still have a ring issue. Sad to say, but if you are fouling a plug with oil then you know you have an internal engine issue and it must bee torn down regardless. My guess is your rings are bad because a worn valve stem will cause a fouled plug, but would have to be excessive wear to foul a plug that quickly. You can however remove valve cover, bring the #8 intake valve to full up and remove rocker then try to push valve side to side. Any noticeable movement is too much. You never said though if the plug was gas fouled or oil fouled but gas fouled would be a different issue. I am only assuming you mean oil fouled

MattD83
10

I read that the #8  cyl are on the same stroke, so considering my concerns are with the number 8. I only tested that 1 with the number 1 cylinder disconnected I did it dry and wet compression test the dry test showed that there was a greater than a 15% variance between cylinder 1 and 8 the wet test soon over 35 psi increase in cylinder 8

SaguaroCactus
0

For Devin's issue: "I can keep it running if I pump the gas. I was told it was the cadiladic converter but that was not the issue. Once it is in gear It will not stay running unless you use the 2 foot method and it is very rough and wont run for more than a minute." I had the exact same issue on a 1990 7.4l w/TBI. OBD I scan said the MAP sensor was throwing the correct value; put a spare MAP sensor on just to check, and that solved the stalling issue.

danddraves
5

Ok I have a 1994 GMC 1500 sierra 5.0 305 it dies in gear sound awesome in idle but dies have changed the tps,the EGR Vacuum Solenoid the Idle Air Control Valve , TBI Base Gasket,Fuel Pressure Regulator,Throttle Body Rebuild Kit,be for it went out as u would accelerate it would lose power now u start it it runs awesome and dies in less on gas u put it in gear it dies in less u to foot it need help any one care to pick at it ?

SaguaroCactus
0

Is this an automatic? Does it die as soon as you put it in drive/reverse, or only when you accelerate? Have you checked the fuel pressure? A dying fuel pump can give you enough fuel to start/idle well enough, but not enough pressure to handle acceleration. Not sure if the 1994 305 has an in-line port for attaching a pressure tester, but that sure makes the job a lot easier. Places like Auto Zone often loan them out for free (assuming you can afford the $150 fully-refundable deposit).

danddraves
5

Yes as soon as its in gear just shots off in less u are on the throttle repeatedly

danddraves
5

Seen some one say up there it could be stuck in o/d in transmission

danddraves
5

I have all ready ordered the hole new fule pump as well yesterday so will see

Kevin Mcmullin
10

Bottom line torque converter lock up switch yw guys and gals

1 out of 1 people think this is helpful.
bigdogbigbone
10

danddraves You might want to order a spelling course along with those parts.

Mike_m_
10

I have the same problem with my 1995 chevy 5.7 u think if I raised the wheels of the floor and if it went into gear without it shuting off that would be a good way of checking the torque converter?

1 out of 1 people think this is helpful.

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