started stalling and dying when in gear
Motor wants to stall while in gear (but doesn't do it out of gear once over 1000 rpm it dosent) seem to stall and it is only from a dead stop. Fuel filter has been replaced and TBI was rebuilt last April but it sort of used to do something like this when it was like 40 degrees or below.
Could be torque converter lockup solenoid in the trans.
my experience with my 93 yukon was the idle air control moter.
Does it do it when it warms up? if once its warm it stops tryin to stall then i would say its the cold start injector, i am pretty sure thats my problem aswell im just waiting for the right price befor i buy it.
with the condenser for ac on or off?????? hmmmmm
i suspect tpi or map sensor. or even dirty pcv valve or worce pluged egr check for vac preasure on hose going to to pcv and for pcv valve to ratle when you shake it
Already fixed it was the fuel pump mine only had 8 psi where normally they have 12-17 psi. Feels like a brand new truck it now has lots of power and doesn't stall anymore
I have a similiar problem as devin, my 95 Sierra 4x4 it has a 350 5.7L engine and the fuel filter has been replaced I cleaned the injectors out and put a new gasket on. The shop said I have good fuel pressure but I am choking out even when not in gear. but I can keep it running if I pump the gas. I was told it was the cadiladic converter but that was not the issue. Once it is in gear It will not stay running unless you use the 2 foot method and it is very rough and wont run for more than a minute. It never did this untill I got it back from the collision center after I was hit in the front passenger side?
i WENT THRU WITH MECHANIC CHANGING EVERYTHING, IDLE CONTROLLER, ETC. finally THEY CHANGED THE BLACK SENSOR ON THE THROTTLE BODY LEFT SIDE AND IT FIXED IT. THIS WAS NOT THE IDLE CONTROLLER, IT WAS A BLACK PART ATTACHED TO THE ACTUAL THROTTLE BODY. NOW i AM ENCOUNTERING HARD TRANNY SHIFT INTO 2ND GEAR ETC SO ITS A CONTINUAL ISSUE BUT i THINK NOT DUE TO THE CHANGES OF ALL ITEMS AND THEN BACK FROM THE INTAKE MANIFOLD UP.
i have a question!! just recently swapped motor and trans out of my 92 gmc 1500 with a motor and trans from an 89 1500. it will crank and idle perfectly and i can rev it up with pretty good throttle response. soon as i drop it in reverse or drive and give it gas it acts like it wants to die and sometimes does.if i play with the throttle i can get it going but it hesitates bad. only changes that were made was i had to swap the throttle body unit off the 92 to the 89 motor cause of cruise control and different iac plugs. do you think this is a spark issue or fuel issue? any help would be greatly appreciated.
The problem is, everyone has the right answer (WRONG) ! You'll have to take it in and have it checked..........or waste time and money listening to these people and change every part they tell you too. This is why it's a waste looking on the net of a sulution
You know Mr. sickofthis!....I disagree with a lot of the answers here, but a few were good answers. The fact is there are so many different possibilities that can cause a single issue it is hard to diagnose online but sites like this are meant to help by giving you a place to start checking. I have been a mechanic for over 20yrs and am myself finding an issue with my own vehicle which I have never ran into before. Which is why I find myself on this site. I have been experiencing a similar issue and am concerned it is a lockup problem which is one answer given here. And also before the problem got this bad had also suspected low fuel pressure due to pump or clogged filter just hadn't had a chance to check it yet and wasn't to concerned about it till things got worse. I was looking on this site for someone experiencing a similar issue who may have found a fix. And so another answer and fix was fuel pump which I already suspected was a possibility but with the way my truck tries to lung forward during trans engagement I am leaning towards lockup solenoid or at least something trans internal. My point with you though is if you have nothing helpful to add then shut up and stay off the site. Go wine someplace else. Sorry if I have offended anyone here by saying so, but people just piss me off sometimes. And I am not adding anything useful now either so I too will shut up. I hope at least someone finds what information I did add to be helpful. And just a quick note if you do suspect one of these to issues to be your problem, start by checking your fuel pressure, if that is ok and you have no other codes that could relate to this issue then go to the trans. Egr, if stucjk open could cause stalling, but will cause rough idle as well which I dont have and the pvc has nothing to do with it at all unless it is a vacuum leak in the line going to the valve. Like I said though there are lots of possibilities. Good Luck everyone and again sorry for unloading a little on Mr. sickofthis!!
I've got a 94 1500 step side 5.7 l v8 when I put it into gear I have no power. The code it said was wrong was the MAP sensor , so once I replaced that it still didn't run when in gear, I've replaced the MAP sensor, TPS , pluge, wires ,cap rotor distributor, timing chain, temp sensor, injectors, fuel pump, fuel filter, AGR valve . the truck sounds like a brand new right off the line when it in park but as soon. As put it in gear it wants to stall, any other ideas???
Have the same issue with a 1994 chevy k2500 truck. Have changed just about everything on the list above. There is no code given. Have changed the injectors, timing, fuel tank, fuel pump, fuel pump, map sensor, cooling temp sensor on front of block, rebuilt the tbi, air idea valve. None of this hasite helped. The truck starts and dies. Have to give a little gas to keep running. While driving have to 2 foot it so it won't die. Wants to die when I come to a stop or slow down to make a turn.
Fuel filter has been changed also. About to change the fuel pressure regulator. I hope to get it fixed soon. Any help would be welcomed.
1994chevy got mine fixed, I had to replace the throital body , runs great now.
Ok guys, Here is what I found! My issue was on a 90 chevy, but would effect anyone who has a lockup convertor. My issue again was engine runs great but would stall imediately once put into gear, however if could get truck rolling 10 miles per hour or so it would not stall but noticed also that I would never see or here an rpm change for O.D. which is because my lockup convertor was stuck or hung up in O.D. Which was the cause of my stalling. When a vehicle is stuck in O.D. as some do when O.D clutches are locked or burned together or in my case the lockup convertor staying locked in, it is like trying to take off with a standard transmission in high range. So it will stall. Replaced the convertor and everything is working great. I hope this helps someone in the future.
Guys, I am back with same issues again after replacing converter. Explained in my post just above. So it seems all this was caused from a faulty pump. Just above the lockup solenoid or TCC solenoid inside transmission,( if you dont know where it is an internet search will show you), but if you remove the two bolts holding it in and remove it you will see a flat washer with offset hole held in with snap ring. If you look through that hole you will see a valve. You will only be able to see the bottom of the stem on the valve about 3/8 inch in diameter, just guessing could be more like a 1/4 inch, but in any case, that valve should be seated firmly against the valve retainer (the washer I mentioned with the hole) In my case it was not, It was stuck in lockup position up in the bore. I used a pick and worked through the hole till I got it to release then unpluged my electrical controls from transmission to prevent the lockup or tcc solenoid from activating and locking the valve up again. This worked fine untill I had time to fix it properly. I later pulled transmission and removed pump. Pulled pump apart and found the pump was worn and looked like possibly some shavings from the pump had gone through the valve and scored the bore enough that the valve wouldn't move freely, in fact I pushed it up into bore several times on the bench and it wouldnt ever. I replaced the pump and again am all good. Now, I could have polished the valve and its bore just a bit and maybe installed a stiffer return spring, but polishing probably would have been enough might be worth trying. With the right tools like a pair of long nosed inside snap ring pliers to get the snap ring out and a pair of long needle nose pliers might allow removal of valve in vehicle. A bit of polishing and you might be back on the road. I didnt want to tear back into it again though so I opted for the sure fix and replaced the pump. Because the valve is in the pump and I knew replacing it would get rid of any issues causing the valve to bind and curiosity made me wonder why the valve began sticking to begin with. Again I hope this helps and helps put an end to mr sickofthis telling everyone an internet search is useless. If you have read this whole thread then you know what I mean. Good luck guys!!
Jhooks, glad you are fixed, was about to suggest checking for vacuum leaks around intake and throttle body as this will sometimes set a map code if severe enough
I have read through other post in this thread and my solution only fits with Devins complaint, would be glad to try and help others with their issues if I can
I have a 1993 /350 chevy goes dead even setting still when warm put the brakes on dies put in gear dies come to a stop dies now it well start but wont stay running if i use the two foot miethed it dies as soon as i put in gear or put brake on
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