Chrysler 300m Overheating Issue!
I have a 99 Chrysler 300m that overheats. Upon my visual inspection of this vehicle I found that it had water in 3 cylinders, which were cylinder numbers 3 and 5, and 4. This car was a no start. I replaced both heads and head gaskets, water pump, radiator cap, had the radiator flow tested, new thermostat. I did find that the thermostat had been installed backwards by the previous installer. The radiator fans work as they should high and low. It still over heats, when at a idle it will not overheat, but upon driving it will very quickly within a couple of miles. system was bleed perfectly. the radiator at low rpms never will get warm, when the fans come on its cool air blowing. I took the thermostat out of it while the engine was 255 degrees according to the drb and it was closed. so what do I do please help. thanks for taking time!!
someone cooked the motor at some point in time and left us with a blown head gasket or two. Verify by doing a compression check, note leakage during test, we already know it's going to be the headgaskets, so get busy and organize your parts!
" I took the thermostat out of it while the engine was 255 degrees according to the drb and it was closed." --- Does it have a thermostat now? What's a "drb"? Drop that thermostat in a pan of boiling (212*F) water and see if it opens.
No it does not have thermostat in it now...... I have circulation now but still overheats....... When I cut the engine, off after it has overheated and open bleeder I have air. I have also heated water and put thermostat in and yes it opens... Drb is chrysler scan tool
the radiator is at fault. If it's an electric one, it's stopped working could be a thermostatic switch or if it's an on the shaft fan has a plugged harrison.
I think you had to right in the beginning Judge. Air in the coolant and overheating could indicate a blown head gasket. Do a compression check and see how it looks.
Good evening gentlemen
Mornin' on the East Coast.
inextricable how 300m01 has not answered to any of us here now- It takes a bit of courage and know-how to tackle a head gasket job, especially goofy because this one's set at an angle...used to drive me friggin crazy with the chrysler slant-6's could not put two paws on the distributor to set the gap and usually succumbed to a solid state unit and a 60,000 coil 'cause I just couldn't do this under these conditions. slanty/slopey engineering...brilliant!
Okay i'm glad we're having this discussion i just replaced the headgaskets for the 2000 crysler concorde 3.2 dohc which they don't even make headgaskets and the sohc 3.2 headgaskets won't work for because the owner of the white softtop fully loaded lxi failes to mention he had a mechanic put a crysler 300m 3.5 motor in his vehicle.... so i have alot of mechanical knowledge swap out transmissions like clockwork and deal with the in's and out's of vehicles that would make the most veteran mechanics sick to there stomachs..... so i took the heads off the shitty 3.5 motor after the owner bought the right gasket .... put everything back every plug back(even the power steeeing plug way down that has an alternator plug attached to it... i put it back together and i mean maticulously even make sure i bles the fuel rail to no avail it just turna and turns... the crank is exactly in tdc and the camshafter timing belt pullys are in betwen the two dots... so it cranks and cranks until my battery starts spitting out acid out of it's red rubber rings so...... what you don't see can hurt you... the right timing belt cam sprocket is loose a mother fuxer and the left timing belt cam sprocket has literally no play... so it still won't start when i cranked the key again, again and again but i was real quiet and listened really hard i hurd a sputter after it stopped cranking so i got some EPIC ADVICE okay here it is ....ready? Once you run into the sputter no start issue like i have just put the crankshaft pully mark lined up with the tdc mark now go to the yeast infected right timing belt cam sprocket and using a gray sharpy mark the pully with a line to match the mark on the aluminum timing belt cover rimm.... why? So when your loosening it you can very easily tell what position the right timingbelt sprocket was in because you still have the timing belt on and everything is pulled in a fixed position so if you do loosen the right timing belt sprocket and it move left you know it was tightened all the way to the right and know when you loosen the hydrolic timing belt tensioner you want to position the right timing belt sprocket dead center or all the way left to retard or obviously you don't want to advance the timing like i did.... be sure you spray just the bolt with oil so it slides against the washer keeping the washer in dead center position timing belt cam sprocket or maybe you wana fine tweek it and sorta retard the timing.... just run the car with the timing belt cover off... so if you have to adjust the timing you can do so with the right timingbelt sprocket... that is the whole reason it has play...
And if you think this is difficult to understand i wana see how you diagnose a jetta.mk4 with two timing chains hooked up to a throttle that once programmed from factory and your able to put the throttle at 12 oclock or six oclock .... i wana see if yoy You can realize that even though the ecm has a programmable throttle kind of like a pcm in a chevy that kicks the fans on reaponding to the engine cooling fan relay.... anywaya i wana see you scratch your head when you put the throttle at 12 oclock position after you swapped the timing belts and tensioners.... i wana see if you can grasp that the vw ecm throttle programs 50% of the time can't be reprogrammed after being set at 6oclock oem position... why you may be asking yourself well easy... becauae vw jettas have static ram in there TCM, ECM &BCM which it's good because you'll never loose your shift patterns but also the throttle program that controlls your fuel injectors spray speeds are so permenantly imbedded into the throttle computer that it can't be rewritten and if you do a vr6 mk4 timing components replacement you better have the throttle in the 6oclock position.... so those are little tid bits of information on top of vast amounts of specifics to crysler removing tcms will cost you a tow do to a clip you just sprung into default along with the classic making key's without programmed chips in them setting your anti-theft device into default so it doesnt send signal to your ecm..,, to relay info to the tcm/bcm
When i hear about a school shooting or jihad extreemist 9/10 he was forged by automobile companies passing down there manufacturing insanity onto the feeble masses
...all that one can do is put them on a path of self-discovery~
your verbose delivery is immediately recognisable...you are dealing with GURUs here....we ain't messin' around.~
I have to say sir....I want you on my team...my Engineering team for "the recaptor" energy capturing exercise vehicle...uses no gasoline get a hell of a workout with both arms and legs..(not chained together...why? well an amputee wants to workout the limbs too~ the thumb throttle is tricky with you using that hand to pull or push the cylinder with (hey could use both directions...thanks for that)~
brakes are push both hands...the assembly slides forward, reverses the flow to the wheels instead of from the wheels and captures the forces back into the accumulator~
Well .... me again 10hours in took everything off ... timing isnt the issue since i wasted a can of starting fluid.. tried timing tooth off with both timing belt sprocket faceing away from eachother.. sprayed ether.... nothing.. engine fights itself... so i set it a tooth off so cam timing belt sprockets face inwards to echother.. spray ether.... it's as if it doesnt give any compression... so i set it back in proper timing belt belt timing .. crank in tdc and both cam timing belt sprockets in between the notch bullshit... can't really tweek it but maybe you can... i doubt your gona get any sound difference with a 3.5 gas guzzler.... so i spray so much ether in the intake but you need to jet to the ignition while its still in arosal form... ao it atarts up.... i know its a fuel pressure issue ... so i guess i read something about this who wasted his money on new pumps and tows because he did not realize theres a FUEL LINE SAFETY VALVE WHERE THE FUEL RAIL SNAPS INTO THE FUEL LINE AND MUST BE DEPRESSED ENOUGH TO BYPASS THE VALVE aka bust out some elbo grease
Ive worked on alot of cars maybe never ran into this particular problem but this is not the most intuitive thing i've ever had to figure out....it is easily ruled out with a can of starter fluid and someones fury on blogs helping us hide from gm's cold & calculating cunning nature usually found on the TNT tv show "Criminal minds"
...PP, you've got to use stragedy...strecha de belt...seriously tension it as much as you can with the tensioners...verify position and let 'er rip with the timing cover off...at least not a DOHC several timing chains JEEP engine...feat of Engineering...that one~
Never! have I found the need to use the Ether (starting fluid)...they used to put people unconscious with this stuff....little bit on a hanky, hold under the nose and it's lights out~....If she's adjusted properly will just fire right up...no monkey business---~
Hey back again... yeah no there was no complication w/ the fuel line hook up turns out even though the fuel pump works you can hear it turning on but to no solution since the crank spins its timed correctly as i mentioned above... inadequate fuel psi is the culperett... so now to watch some videos how to drop the shitty tank or maybe theres an access point on top.. i doubt it though
Yep your right judge roy ... a fuel pressure psi tester is a very handy tool to have
a beloved "peanuts" piano player~
PP (piano player) did you not just rely on the built-in tensioner with all brand new wear items?
have a 99 Chrysler 300m that overheats. Upon my visual inspection of this vehicle I found that it had water in 3 cylinders, which were cylinder numbers 3 and 5, and 4. This car was a no start. I replaced both heads and head gaskets, water pump, radiator cap, had the radiator flow tested, new thermostat. I did find that the thermostat had been installed backwards by the previous installer. The radiator fans work as they should high and low. It still over heats, when at a idle it will not overheat, but upon driving it will very quickly within a couple of miles. system was bleed perfectly. the radiator at low rpms never will get warm, when the fans come on its cool air blowing. I took the thermostat out of it while the engine was 255 degrees according to the drb and it was closed. so what do I do please help. thanks for taking time!! Wster pump, water pump, water pump. Me have same trouble wrong size pump. Need all metal pump if you have plastic vains on pump its the wrong one. Go to NAPA and get the all metal one it's a bigger pump # 58-553
oooof, not good jimmy, not good----after running for fives is it still puffin' the white?....could you unscrew a sparkplug then to assure that there is a cracked block involved here....someone did not wait before quenching the HOT engine with HOSE water....look underhood for evidence for a boil-over...shame 'cause there ain't a whole lot that can be done about this~ :(