Engine Shutting off after about 10-20 seconds on 2004 Silverado 1500
Can anyone shed some light on this problem. After driving my 04' Silverado 1500 all day without any problems, after the truck sat in the driveway for a couple of hours, the truck started right up, but then after about 10-20 seconds it shut off. It now continue to do this. It starts normally, but then shuts off. I tried removing battery cables for a while and replacing, but no difference. Has anyone had this problem?
Thanks for the help!
sounds as if you have a fuel suply problem.you did not mention milage,so have you replaced the fuel filter,cleane throtle body with carb. cleaner carbon will build up at butterfly and keep it open,just remove air filter over t body clean until all black ring is gone crank and see what happends,if no change ,probley fuel pump is bad.good luck,and let us know how turned out.
I would also agree that it sounds like a fuel supply problem. The cheapest thing is to replace the fuel filter and then probably the fuel pump (in tank). I would also check for a fuel leak from the tank to the injectors. You may also consider that you could have a clogged fuel injector.
Thanks for the help! Sorry in my delay in replying, just got back in town. I'm going to start with the fuel filter. I'll post results. Rob
Thanks, for the help.
After a brief discussion with the dealer, I found out that the 04' Silverado does not have a fuel filter any longer. It simply has a screen at the bottom of the fuel pump. Also, they told me that it doesn't sound like the fuel pump, because when that goes out, it goes out, it doesn't continue to run like my truck is doing. My truck continually starts up without a problem, but dies after about twenty seconds, so now I'm back to square one. Looks like I need to get the computer diagnosed. Thanks Rob
If this only occurs after the engine is hot, it may be an electrical problem. When the engine is hot, two things occur: (1) thermal effect on connections - electrical connectors expand and dry solder joints or worn connectors may suffer poor contact. (2) thermal effect on components - heat (or extreme cold) tolerance of semi-conductor components may vary performance of power supply throughout the system (to sensors, solenoids, ignition etc) and exhibit unusual engine management behavior. This is evident from several GM technical service bulletins concerning intermiitent electrical problems caused by faults with the power management computer and power distribution box. Be cautious about the GM repair by replacement policy. This will cost you time and money if it is not covered by a current warranty.
disagree,the04 does have a fuel filter .All electric fuel pumps have a sock that goes on the bottom of the pump.check under door on driver side,nside frame rail you should see the filter.in my dealings with the dealership-shop their is usually 1 person that knowes what he is doing the oyher so called mechanics are hired off the street and dont knoe much they all go to the 1 person that knowes.
Actually the Silverados do not have a fuel filter. They removed them from the design in about 2000. My 2001 doesn't have one outside the fuel tank. I've traced all the lines because I didn't believe it either but all they have is the screen at the fuel pump inlet and the screens at the injectors.
At a dealership it all really matters, some guys are there because they are good at certtain things. Not all guys are great a diagnosis, so you have a couple good guys who know diag who then take on the harder jobs.
this happend to my aunts 1996 dodge caravan. it turned out to be the computer ignition system. try looking at the computer
Don't know if this helps but my Grand Voyager (Caravan State side!!) would be fine and then on sunny days mostly I would return to the car to find it start up then die like a fuel or alarm problem. I then found out that if you remove the instrument panel and look at the circuit board it normally has a dry joint. I done this and sure enough one of the solder joints had a broken ring of solder all round it. I resoldered all joints (just in case!!) and it has not done it once since that was over 1 year ago and it has been out in the sun on some hot days!!
I am not an experienced mechanic but i am in college for it. the first thing i would do is find some someplace that has a scan tool and look at the o2 sensors, and mass air flow sensor. i really don't know though. does it have a check engine light on?
TPS sensor maybe? Does it run rough for those 20 seconds? Maybe vaccuum leak? Need more info?
I have an 02 silverado and i do have a fuel filter in the drivers frame rail.I do all my own work and service mine twice a yr.He should also check PVC for function. Could also be problem.
Iam also dealing with a variation of this problem.
Unplug the mass air flow sensor and see if it stays running.I had one fail and that is how it acted.I unplugged it and it ran fine although I got a check engine with it unplugged.I replaced it and no more problems.
think this buggy has OBDII. simply have your codes read. this will tell you which direction to proceed.
my 2000 chevy silverado just randomly die then it will start back up idle for 10 seconds die down over an over. i let it sit for 4 hours started it up an drove it made it a mile an died again then it would go back to starting up for 10 seconds an dead...
Turn the key so the lights are on but not the truck, let it sit for like 60 seconds that way the start it. Just had the same issue. Its a security feature that needs to reset after the battery cables are disconnected. After this it should run fine
Thank you Alexander. Have a 2000 Tahoe Z71. Changed battery and could not start engine (ran 2-3 seconds then shut down). Tried resetting the fuel rails via turning on ignition for 5 seconds--no joy. Read your comment, above, turned system on for 65 seconds, turned it to start, and it started up and kept running. As a note: Owners manual only states that under such circumstances to take the vehicle to the dealer to reset the security system.
i have a 2000 sierra SLE , starts first time then 10 mins later dies and then when i try to turn it on again it starts then dies right away, i have replaced the fuel pump but it did not help at all. someone please help
Bad fueel. Pump. Hit tank if. Engine keeps running got your self bad fp
If you security light is on when this happens then it's a plug that is on the ignition remove the cover on the steering column and you will see it on your left it has two wires move it around and see if it starts if it does I put a toothpick on the back side to make it keep contact it is a common problem with these trucks hopefully that will fix your problem
i have a 2002 Chevy silverado and it will start then die. I turn it off then it will start right back up and stay on. I have changed out the fuel pump and a brand new tank put in. What could it be?
I had the same issue with my 05 tahoe for months, It turned out to be the Crank Position sensor. I changed it and it's been running great since
My 2000 silverado 2500 with the 6.0 always started than immediately died so I got in habit of starting it and quickly giving only a small amount of throttle and it always ran fine I cheng ed my pump once and changed my filter every second oil change I always kept my mass air flow cleaned with carb cleaner and every 6 months I would spray out the throttle body with carb clean and I was really good with keeping mid grade gas in it and ran sea foam and lucas fuel injector cleaner once a month. Which helped with keeping my cat code clear I never did find out what the problem was but I would have someone read what the o2 sensors are doing that would be my guess
It turned out to me my Idle control valve was going out.. I got it fix and haven't had an issue... Thank you
I have a 96 1500 silverado. It takes numerous attempts to start. If i hit the brake immediately after starting the first time it dies. After more numerous attempts to start it finally does. It will run fine for 15 minutes. I turn it off and then try to restart it and nothing. I end up killing ths battery before i finally get it restarted. Any ideas? Thank you
I have just replaced the following today.. Starter, plugs, wires, inline fuel filter, distributor cap and rotor, new wires. Also tried swapping out the following for knowingly good parts.. Mass air flow and idle air control valve. Still same issue. I really dont want her ending up in junkyard.
My 05 suburban will start and when I stop it will die I changed my crank and my cam position sensors and still does the same
This may be unrelated, but I can attest to the heat causing problems in electrical. I had the similar problem with my 05 Suburban 175000 miles. It first stalled pulling out into traffic on a hot day in Austin, left turn, dead stall, no stearing, traffic coming - scary. I was able to get out of the way. It started right up. Ran fine for a day. Then did it again. I was on a road trip. It made me nervous. by now I'm in Arkansas. A day later it did it again. again. A couple days later I noticed it was only on left turns. I went to two dealers and two repair shops on the road. No clue. I told them about theories on this thread and others... they rolled their eyes. "only on left turns?" no way. has to be a wire short. They didn't have time, I was traveling out of state. The car was still going "straight and right" just fine... so I drove on. then I hit a big bump in the road, and it stalled, but didn't die. 10 miles later it did it again. I'm in the middle of Oklahoma, and it is getting worse. Finally, I'm in walled in construction, no shoulder, 10 miles of it, and it dies completely. I shift to nuetral and it won't start. It tries, but won't. I'm coasting to a stop, 10mph, and there in front of me is a hole in the concrete barrier that I ease through out of traffic, get towed to a shop and they start pulling on wires. By this time, the car has cooled and it starts fine. They notice on a bunch of wires that run down behind or beside the powersteering pump, that the car will stall if they pull on those. So they slide under and take of the skid plate and disconnect all those wires and pull them up. Cut all the tape off, and examine them. The two little wires going to the AC switch have a kink and a worn spot, one has the plastic off for an 1/8 inch and the wire is exposed. We taped them up... saw no other bad spots and shook our head and put it all back together. For some reason on the left turn and later when it worsened, a bump, the rub got worse and worse and then shorted out completely (when it was hot) The AC was working fine, there had been no engine light codes, but this surge / short had caused the stall. It is working fine now... just drove 200 miles with not one stall. It had gotten so bad that it was stalling every left turn and most bumps in the road. It took 1.5 hours to pull it all out, and put it all back. No parts necessary. Hope this helps.
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