engine swap on a 98 forester?
I need a engine for a 98 forester. I cooked my current one at 265k. Many places advertise like they have them, but don't really have it or can get it. I really wanna keep this car.
Our experts haven't test driven this car yet.
Our experts haven't test driven this car yet.
Our experts haven't test driven this car yet.
Our experts haven't test driven this car yet.
Our experts haven't test driven this car yet.
Our experts haven't test driven this car yet.
I need a engine for a 98 forester. I cooked my current one at 265k. Many places advertise like they have them, but don't really have it or can get it. I really wanna keep this car.
Recently I was stuck in standstill traffic on a hill for a while and my engine began to overheat. I turned on the heat full blast for a bit as I learned to do when one of my fans died in the past. However this time it wasn't working. I pulled off the road and looked at the engine and realized the cooling fans were not working. However, if I turn on the AC, they both come on. They were both changed in the past year. The temp gauge in the dash seems to work correctly. Is there a relay or something or a sensor that might be bad so the computer isn't telling the fans when to come on under normal operation (without AC) perhaps? Thermostat? Any suggestions? Thank you!
Got a buddy with 2004 Subaru Forester with blown motor but good body. I got a 1998 Subaru Forester with a trashed body but good motor. Would this be a difficult swap? Is it worth it?
Car won't start after I changed my fuel pump
98 subaru forester suddenly began shuttering extremely bad, ro the point I thought I had a flat tire but all were inflated. Pulled back into road and began accelerating and steering wheel begins to violently saw bk and forth and car wobbled so bad I pulled over again. Once again begin to accelerate and hear a knocking type sound but much slower and harder than CV axle knocking/ticking and was driving straight. Checked ball joints and tie rods and all seem to be tight, although driver side outer boot is split. Tried driving again and car rode fine. The following day I found driving to check it out again and all seemed well for about 8 miles and car and steering wheel began to violently wobble again and had to pull over. Again began to drive and as soon as I left foot of gas pedal t began to violently shimmy again with loud knocking as well. Get home and check front end again and find both boots on rack and pinion are split but don't believe that is the cause of the steering wheel jerking from left to right so violently. Also car pulls hard to the right but only ly when the wobble and shaking is present
Airbags
Dual front airbags
Audio System
Single disc in-Dash CD · AM/FM radio
Convenience Features
Steering wheel: tilt-adjustable
Exterior Features
Skid plate(s): front and rear
Roof
Roof rack color: black
Seats
Front seat type: bucket · Upholstery: cloth
Windows
Front wipers: intermittent
Airbags
Dual front airbags
Audio System
Single disc in-Dash CD · AM/FM radio
Brakes
ABS: 4-wheel
Convenience Features
Multi-function remote: keyless entry · Steering wheel: tilt-adjustable
Exterior Features
Skid plate(s): front and rear
Roof
Roof rack color: black
Seats
Front seat type: bucket · Upholstery: cloth
Windows
Front wipers: intermittent
Airbags
Dual front airbags
Audio System
Single disc in-Dash CD · AM/FM radio
Brakes
ABS: 4-wheel
Convenience Features
Multi-function remote: keyless entry · Steering wheel: tilt-adjustable
Exterior Features
Skid plate(s): front and rear
Mirrors
Exterior mirrors: power
Roof
Roof rack color: black
Seats
Front seat type: bucket · Heated: front seats · Upholstery: leather
Tires and Rims
Wheel type: aluminum alloy
Windows
Front wipers: intermittent