how do i make my 2002 civic faster cheap?
i have a 2002 honda civic and i like to go fast i want to know what i need to do to make it faster and what the best parts would be to do that? like most teenagers i dont have a hole lot of money but i have enough to do some thing to it wh i want to know what the best engine parts would be the best for it its a 1.7 liter 4 cylinder 4 door 2002 honda civic LX
If you like to go fast save your money and get a sports car next go around because you can't make a fast Honda on a limited budget... Ohh it can be done but it'll cost... As to your question... I'm guessing you want the basics Cold Air Intake Exhaust Header Cat Back It all depends on what you're willing to spend...If you get a drop down CAI make sure you get a bypass valve. It keeps you from sucking water into the motor if you stop in a deep puddle on a rainy day. If you have abit of mechanical inclination you could try putting high compression pistons in, that's usually the biggest bang for the buck if you can get 'em out/in from below.
yeah i figured that stuff but do u know what kind is the best? iv searched around but everyone says there stuff is the best!!
well to be honest most stuff on the tuner markets... domestic and import tend to me more bling based... I've never seena site advertise an intake that is heat wrapped...good crap is ugly so my opinion is find an intake you like. They will all gain similar gains if they are mandrel bent. If you want to make 'em as good as you can you can by some heat wrap from a speed shop and cover your exhaust in the engine bay to keep hood temps down, but that's excessive on a street car because they tend to get nasty when they get wet. My opinion is if you can get some higher compression pistons. You keep a completely stock look but gain power... More than what a CAI and a Cat back will do for you... Additionally high comp piston improve the gains you'll get with those things... In my opinion engine internals are what separate a ricer from a tuner... Plus I think it's all around classier than a 4" fart can on the back of an economy car, but that's just me. On some cars you can pull the pistons down through the bottom with the oil pan off... others you may have to pull the heads, if thats the case then I say avoid it too much hassle. The down side of high compression pistons is that you may need to upgrade to mid-grade or premium gas to avoid pinging...
there are other alternatives as well. I drive a 2003 vibe and have had a hand in every mod thats on there. If you are looking for an intake, research K&N and Injen first. Injen has a convertible short ram and cold air intake kit. You get both for 200 smackers. it will save the trouble of needing a bypass valve for the winter. Given you'll still need the bypass valve for those rainy days in the summer, but you wont have to use the cold air in the winter. Exhaust wise, research Magnaflow and Borla, those are two of the best brands out there. Headers i dont know what is out there for civics seeing how i dont drive one. Definitely consider the high comp pistons that Adam recommended. However they will cost you some money long term. You will need to switch to not only Premium fuel (93 octane) but you will need to use synthetic oil as well if you want the most out of your car. Go buy some Mobil 1 FULL SYNTHETIC motor oil. Not that synthetic blend crap. My guess is you've got around 70,000 miles on your car, so it should be in its prime about now. Synthetic oil will add about 2 wheel horsepower, because it is more slippery than regular oil. Also, go out and buy some aftermarket spark plugs. Again, not a blow-you-away mod, but will give you more responsiveness and add another 2 horsepower. The best brand would be Bosch Iridium spark plugs. They are quad pronged (four igniters). Another thing, you should strongly consider an aftermarket pulley system. This will give you max power throughout the whole rev range. They dont necessarily add power, but they help in getting the power to the wheels more effectively. If you're looking for a poor man's guide to mods, then this would be what i recommend for you: -get an intake (preferably Injen's cold air intake) -bypass valve -catback exhaust and headers (this will run you about 700 total) -pulleys (anywhere from 50-200) -synthetic oil (6 bucks a quart) -Bosch Iridium spark plugs (around 40 bucks) Now i'm not saying that you have all this money, but this list right here would be the IDEAL set of mods for anyone that has a budget of say less than 1200 bucks. You can even cut the catback exhaust from your list and get an axleback instead. Its just cheaper but wont give you the gains of a catback. Again, its all up to you. These are the best things i could think of for your vehicle. If you've got any questions on what is here, dont hesitate to let me know. I'm all for helping a fellow driver.
Just a note a coouple of notes The short over engine ram air intakes have been shown to be no more effective than a premium stock style filter... The purpose of a CAI is to get air that hasn't been heated by the motor.. .Thereby being more dense = contains more O2. Synthetic oil is no more needed on a high comp motor than on a low compression motor. It's need on turboed engines do to the need to cool areas that have a high enough heat to bring the oil over 260' F which will cause conventional oils to oxidize. Synthetics aren't more slippery as you stated but instead all the molecules are identical and have no free radicals to bound to each other. This results in better centerline flow of the oil... It allows it to penetrate deeper into oil passages more quickly reducing engine wear. In all honesty it's only needed in high temperature applications, but should be used in all applications because of the reduced engine wear, especially in modern engines where oil passages are much smaller. It's not even expensive if you do it yourself. You can Do a Mobil 1 Full synthetic oil change for under $28 if you get your stuff at walmart...Which I dunno why people still goto auto parts shops for changing their oil, Walmart's cheaper and usually have better stock. There's my oil rant which I'll prolley post once every few weeks no doubt...So many people spew so much crap about oil that they've read in a manufacturer's brochure its pathetic.
I'm sorry to say but your intake comment is completely off the mark. First off a stock style filter cannot give you gains just because its a filter. All it does is give you a better suction. The purpose of the short ram pipe is to endure what a stock intake cannot. And provide gains that a stock intake cannot. For example. My car has been dynoed with a K&N short ram intake and it produced 5whp more than what it would with just a stock intake or stock style filter. If you raced your car, you'd find the difference. The purpose of a CAI is not to get air that hasnt been heated by the motor. It is to provide air in smaller more pressurized form to the engine. The tubing is more compressed than a short ram intake. Your theory of more dense = more O2 would make sense.....to a chemist. This is performance. The CAI tubing is smaller than the short ram tubing, therefore the air flowing into the engine becomes more pressurized and compressed. You can even use your mouth to experiment. If you open it completely, the air feels hot and has virtually no pressure. If you leave a little hole and blow air, you will find that the air is cooler and more pressurized, just like it was flowing through a very small tube. This rule applies to short ram and cold air intakes. As for the oil, it is NOT needed on turboed engines. Thats why they make intercoolers. You get any stock car that has a turbo (supra, mazdaspeed 3, jetta 1.8T, etc.) and the car is running on conventional motor oil. In fact, all stock times that are produced by an automaker for a turboed car run the vehicle on conventional oil. What i meant by slippery is that the oil can indeed flow through the pistons and passages easier than conventional oil. Synthetic oil can also free up lost horsepower, not a whole lot, but it restores some of the power that you dont get with conventional oil. Especially if you are running on 2.5 quarts like i was when i switched to synthetic. But alas i have a toyota. They test their engines with 1 quart of oil for 7 days straight full throttle. You've gotta know what you're talking about before you say something. I appreciate your enthusiasm however. And my mistake about the price of oil. I also go to walmart to get my oil. It's 4 to 5 bucks, as opposed to 7 at autozone.
Alright first off take a pen, stick it between your middle finger and ring finger. Now use your other hand to squeeze the two fingers together. The reason air is colder coming out of your moth is that the pressurized air spreads reducing it's density which cools it off...Hence why tubro'd engine which increase the pressure need something to cool the air charge off. Hence why high performance turbo's have an intercooler. Two CAI of all sorts are generally wider than a stock in line which is why you can get better power from them if your intake tube is your air restriction, but usually it's you filter element hence why I said a premium filter has the same gain as a short ram. And the point of a CAI (Cold Air Intake) is to get Cold Air In, because cold air is more dense!!! Find a professional racing team with a short air open element intake. There are none. They bring their air either from intake through the front or from under neath the engine. Because it's cooler engine. You'll also note they don't have shiny intakes during a race they tend to heat wrap the intakes prior to a race to keep engine heat from getting to the air charge. If YOU had ever raced you would know this. But I'm guessing the closest thing you've done to racing is pulling up next to a Civic and reving your engine. 'Your theory of more dense = more O2 would make sense.....to a chemist. This is performance' In your world a turbo'd or super charged engine is no better than a naturally aspirated engine you. Intercooler cools the air going into the turbo not the turbo bearings which are often cooled by a sealed oiling system or through connection lines to your engine oiling system. And car manufacturers don't design it to run on conventional which is why tend to have more stringent requirements on turbo'd engines. Conventional oils break down at high temperatures due to free radicals... IE they burn. Finally one quart would cause a toyota to loose pressure due to how high the pickup tube is from the bottom of the pan, and the volume of the pump, lines, and filter. If you'd rebuilt an engine you would know this. Lastly it's not synthetic oil that frees up power but instead the additives they contain. When buying a better oil you tend to get a penetrating additive that reduces friction on cylinder walls. Hence how zmax and all the other similar micro-lubricant additives can show power gains... They tend to run their test on car with conventional that lack similar products. I'd like to know where you get your back-ass-wards information. I'm serious you were wrong on almost every point. Who the hell told you this. You really ought to slap them because they made you look like an idiot on a public forum.
Easiest bang-for-your-buck-mod has got to be nitrous. (Everyone hold your positive and negative comments til the end) Yes it's normally $400-$600 for a basic kit, but the power you get from it is probably 3 times of what you'd spend on a CAI, cat-back, and header combo. And even still, you'd be spending that much dough anyway on the intake/exhaust/header combo. Nitrous..... cheap and fast, if you install it and use it correctly. Only downside is that you have to constantly refill the bottle and you will always worry about detonation (much like a turbo). Just my .02 cents!!
True... If you go that route make sure you don't have platinum plugs, get cooper or iridium plugs. Also try to get a kit that will advance your timing when the nitrous solenoid kicks in. Most times you need an after market ignition system, but Honda's get a little more after market support than most cars. That'll help prevent detonation. Downside is some areas have laws against them. a few counties here outlaw nitrous on street legal vehicles. (They consider it haz-mat, and will give you a hell of a fine, if you have a similar law in your area or near you hide everything. Build a carpeted enclosure for your tank in the trunk, and put wire wrap around your lines in the engine bay.) Also try to get a setup that will only activate when in motion. Buddy killed his motor when he bent over at a light and accidentally hit his manual nitrous switch. Ended up shotting a rod through the block... Granted all the crap I said might make the kit more expensive but it'll be worth it in the long run. Good luck m8
Just so you know. I have raced my car many times. Shit on that. I've raced....1. integra ls manual with complete exhaust, header, injen SRI, honda performance valve cover. Lost 2. Also, scion tc. Completely stock but manual tranny. Lost 3. 2006 Chevy Malibu V6 automatic transmission. stock. Lost 4. Gen 2 Eclipse with an Evo 3 turbo. manual. Lost 5. Honda CRX with cams. manual. Lost 6. VW Jetta 2.5L nonturbo auto transmission. Won 7. 2001 Celica Gt auto transmission with custom SR intake and a K&N typhoon filter. Won 8. 2006 Mitsubishi Eclipse GS with Weapon R short ram and aftermarket pulleys. Manual. Lost by a car 9. 2001 Ford Taurus SE V6 (weak version however). automatic and stock. Won I can go on and on.....dont even talk to me about racing. You shouldnt make false assumptions based on my information sources. Keep in mind i have an automatic transmission. Dont laugh at the races i've lost. I've lost every race i should have. With a turbo or supercharged engine, i can get much better power than going naturally aspirated. The smallest supercharger for my car boosts horsepower by 50 wheel horse and boosts torque 18%. Going naturally aspirated over that would take a hell of alot of mods to get 50 horsepower. I'd need to go forced induction to get that kind of gain anyways. There's a reason why turbo cars race other turbo cars. Because naturally aspirated would get their ass whooped in terms of power output. It would all depend on the car however. a turbo supra would have a cakewalk with a turbo integra, just because of the mere power that the I6 of the supra could support. In some cases up to 2000whp. And i know for a fact that toyota runs the car for 7 days straight. It is done in secret as there are no articles about it on the internet. If you knew anyone at a toyota manufacturer then you would be surprised to know that this in fact is true. Who said the intercooler cools the turbo bearings? I never said that. I know the intercooler cools the air going into the turbo. And a note about the tubing of an intake. The metal that it is made out of was meant to withstand the high heat of an engine at high revolutions. It does a much better job than a stock intake. Example, mine was plastic and it had holes and staples in it. I probably lost power with that because not as much air flows into the engine when i need it to due to the holes. With a completely enclosed steel or metal tubing, that is a small size so therefore increasing the pressure of the air, also cooling the engine down quicker, i can have a much better air flow into the engine. Also, i test drove a mazdaspeed 3 running on conventional oil and it was still able to achieve 5.8 seconds from 0-60. It's fact. I base my information off of facts and charts. Example the dyno of my car with the intake and filter vs. just a filter and some cheap ass tube. Which is basically stock. The filter is for cleaning the air better than a stock intake would, it doesnt provide gains. The tubing and the tubing size, where its located in the engine (near components emitting heat) all contribute to the gains you get. and i've never had to rebuild an engine because i have a toyota. They dont die, idiot.
Once again you've proved your an idiotic twat... Not even worth dealing with an idiot who's never competed in any sanctioned events where a car has to pass a saftey inspection. You haven't raced... You've been an idiot at a street light who's never driven anything with a cage. You get your information from manufacturer dyno's which show cherry picked data, and have never seen or done objective testing. Line workers don't know what goes into R&D that's left to the engineers who a line worker never meets. It's not worth arguing with you because you can't even pick up on sarcasm focused on how retarded statements you made are. If you've never had to rebuild a motor it's because you've never built an engine to it's limits, not because your maker. Most race engines need a rebuild every couple races at best. Full out drag motors need tear downs almost every event. That goes for Toyotas too. Also I never said anything about a conventional oil slowing an engine down it wears it out, so why are you saying anything about how fast you can go 0-60 with conventional? Lastly both the gauze and the polymer filters provide similar cleaning action the K&N and similar are designed not to clog as easily and provide optimum flow. If you had a plastic tube with holes and staples in it then I have to ask where did you get that? Sounds like the most rigged P.O.S. "With a turbo or supercharged engine, i can get much better power than going naturally aspirated. The smallest supercharger for my car boosts horsepower by 50 wheel horse and boosts torque 18%. Going naturally aspirated over that would take a hell of alot of mods to get 50 horsepower. I'd need to go forced induction to get that kind of gain anyways. There's a reason why turbo cars race other turbo cars. Because naturally aspirated would get their ass whooped in terms of power output. It would all depend on the car however. a turbo supra would have a cakewalk with a turbo integra, just because of the mere power that the I6 of the supra could support. In some cases up to 2000whp." My comment on turbo's mean nothing in 'YOUR' world was directly derived from... "Your theory of more dense = more O2 would make sense.....to a chemist. This is performance" Which anyone who knows why a turbo works would know why this is funny. Someone please explain to this idiot how an engine works I'm getting tired off talking to a twat who's definition of racing is dragging with other idiots who couldn't put a new tranny in their car if their life depended on it. (Which judgeing by teh fact you haven't mentioned times means you're likely doing this on the street).
Ok well first of all i havent raced cause i'm merely 19 and still in college. Education first for me. I'm not nearly experienced enough or old enough to be joining any kind of team or rebuilding any engine. I dont have the money or the tools. As for my statement about conventional and 0-60 times, the synthetic improved mine because i was only running on 2.5 quarts of oil, so basically i added a few whp, maybe 1 or 2 just by changing it and havin a full 4 quarts of oil. But yeah the stock intake is like a plastic tube or something with staples and some wierd fabric shit. It is a pontiac vibe and it is geared for economy, so you kinda gotta figure that toyota would put in something safe. It's pointed away from any other component generating heat so it doesnt get burnt or anything haha. If you want times i can give you some, and no i didnt look these up. my car......8.5 sec 0-60, 17 quarter mile (i hit 16.6 once timed by my friend) integra ls....7.6 sec 0-60, 16.2 quarter mile (its got 150,000 miles on it) malibu....7.6 sec 0-60, 16.5 quarter mile 2006 eclipse.....8 sec 0-60, quarter mile hasnt been timed, but i'd guess 16.6 or so. around there. scion tc.....7.8 sec 0-60, 15.9 quarter mile gen 2 eclipse and honda crx i have no idea. the FI in those cars were crazy. both hitting 60 in like 5-6 seconds. celica gt.....9 seconds 0-60, 18 quarter mile the jetta was a rolling start so i dont know the time of that car. it was pretty much even with me though. I wont deny that i have been doing this on the street. But i do know how an engine works. I'm going to school to be a tech.
Lighter is faster so keep the driver's seat but remove all other interior trim, spare wheel, tools, radio etc. No seats also means no extra weight from taxiing mates around.
Sorry man, our 7th gens (2001-2005) came with the bastard motor of all the D series. The D17a1 and D17a2, Bolt ons, such as intake, exhaust, and header, will yield in minimal gains. Our engines are made for efficiency and that's it. The only possible swap is the K-series engine, which is not cheap. Check out 7thgenhonda.com for tons of info on your car!
well, intake, header, exhaust. thats basically what could make your car a little faster for little $$$$
Before I respond to this questions. I AM NOT BASHING HIS CIVIC, IM NOT BASHING IMPORTS/ 4 CYLINDER ENGINES. We've all seen what they can do... Honestly, a 4 door civic like that is not a good platform for going fast. It's just not. Its a great economy car. The engines were designed to be efficient, not fast. They can be made fast dont get me wrong, but its no where cheap or reliable. Headers, exhaust, and intake would not boost power in a meaningful way. I also saw that nitrous oxide was brought up. NO. On a almost stock honda civic? Are you kidding me? Just keep your car the way it is and enjoy the good gas mileage. If you would really like to go fast, i reccommend not being broke, or just buying a used Lt1 or LS1 F-body. Cheap Fast Reliable You can only have 2 of the above. Just my $0.02.
There are LOTS u can do to that car. There more performance parts for a honda civic than any car i have seen, thats the truth. im assuming that ur civic is 5-speed manual and if not that just really sucks, but anyways there are lots of simple thing u can add to the engine for example... COLD-air intake. i uppercased cold for a reason, if u get the air intake ur not getting as much performance out of the air flow. With the cold-air intake the more cold air u get in the filter the more performance you'll get the faster u go the more cold air is getting into engine. The cold-air intake is not that expensive if u get the right one. Don't go and buy a K&N intake or a an AEM cuz they are expensive about $500. The short Ram cold-air intake is also good to and thats about $250-$300. Exaust manifold system. You can get a very good exaust system pretty cheap if u got the right connections. i recommend a 3 inch muffler and a 2 and quater inch pipes under the car into the headers. Some exaust systems are cheap some are expensive like i said, the top brands like Greddy, HKS, Magnaflow, Flowmasters, can get expensive with the right connections you can bet them for aboout $250-$350. theres alot more u can do to ur car but i've typed enough. send me a message if u want more info. -Alex
ohh and one more thing the guy that sent u the message befor me. is right DO NOT i repeat DO NOT install a direct port Nitrous System ur car is practically stock if u put NOS in that you'll blow ur engine dont be stupid because if u blow ur engine than ur gonna have to rebiuld it and thats gonna cost u $$$. and if u have saved a lot of money u can swap the engine i recommend a spoon engine. but thats about 6 to 8 thousand $. so just go with the b18 v-tech or b16 even. there both good except the b18 is a bit more tweaked. about 190 horsepower.
Just question how much HP can you get out of a civic fully tuned?
that depends if you are talkin all motor or boosted. if you are talking all motor then you have to look at one, the displacement of the engine, and two the compression ratio. the b16 is a very good strong motor pound for pound. it is one of the few engines that makes 100 hp per liter all motor from the factory. its only a 1.6L tho, so dont expect huge numbers. the highest i have seen all motor from a b16 civic is like 250 on 93 octane. now boosted, i have seen a 600hp b16.
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