2011 Chrysler town and country fuel test port

Look on the end of the fuel rail, and on back on the fuel line running to the fuel rail. If it does not have a Schrader Valve, then you'll have to tap into the fuel line at a connection.

Let me give you some details, maybe you can help me figure out what I need to do. After the van sets for a few hours it won't start. If I cycle the key two or thee times before trying to start I can get it to run. I was thinking that my fuel system is loosing pressure. But I did a fuel pressure leak down test and everything was in spec. The fuel rail held 58psi for 5min, the fuel pump side pressure went down just a few psi during the test but still well within the spec in the service manual. There are no visual leaks anywhere that I can find. I'm hesitant to change the fuel pump because it seems to be working. When the van runs it is fine, it is just hard starting. Like I said, the key has to be cycled a few time. At this point I'm wondering it my fuel pump just isn't running long enough when trying to start. I hear the pump run when the key is cycled, but it only seems to run for 1 second at most. Then I have to cycle the key to get it to run again. Starting to think I have a computer problem. Any input or other ideas would be appreciated.

Very observant. Yes your right with the fuel pump, the fuel pressure and bleed down test are good.There is no problem with the fuel pump or fuel injectors. Could be a computer problem. What you would have to do is when it does not start is the best time to test, would be to see if there is fuel injector pulse at the injectors. The ECM may not be firing them off. But it does start so makes me believe there may be a bad connection somewhere in the fuel injection wiring, maybe at the ECM. But you would know for sure if you tested at the injector connector with a noid light to see if there is voltage, a pulse when turning the engine over. There is no pulse, voltage until you turn the engine over and when the engine is running. You have to be turning the engine over for testing.

Well, I think I got it figured out. There is a fuel relay that is integrated into the fuse panel circuit under the hood, and The relay is non-serviceable. The only way to fix the fuel relay is to replace the fuse panel. Turns out there have been some problems with this model year and make of vehicle and the fuel relay not always making contact. I was able to wire the fuel pump directly to power when the key is on. Seems to work good now. Now I just have to wait for an aftermarket fuse panel to come to be available to have it fixed right. From what I've found, to replace that fuse panel I would get from Mopar is like $1000. Here's how I figured it out. http://www.verticalvisions.com/TIPM_solutions.php

That is something...Looks like your on the right track.

There is a dealer wiring harness that is part of a recall. The harness bypasses the relay and adds it externally. About 20.00

Mark could you give me a link to the $20.00 harness?

68142156AA is the part number

Looking for no 7 and no 25 to bypass the relay it's show a different number

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