How do I solve this type of electrical problem?
2002 Jaguar S-type, 62,000 mi. So far I have had my jag in the shop five times. The car runs great, but every 10-14 days the battery goes completely dead. So far, the jag dealership canât figure it out. Got any ideas?
This is something that will only be able to be fixed by a thorough check of the electrical system and charging system. It sounds like something is drawing current when it's not supposed to be. Have them start with the battery and charging system and go from there. If they can't figure it out, you may want to switch to a mechanic who specializes in electrical problems.
I checked the charging system and replaced the battery. 10-days later the car was dead again. So far it has been to the dealers 6-times and so far, 700.00 later, the Jag dealer still can;\'t find a PROBLEM. I have read that some times a relay or two stick in the RECM. Got any Idea which ones to replace first?
I am having the EXACT same problem with my 2002 Jag S-Type...do you ever get a resolution for the problem? Thanks.
I HAVE HAD A SIMILIAR ISSUE WITH CAR THAT I AM WORKING ON. CAR CAME IN WITH SAME ISSUE BATTERY DEAD. BOOST, CAR STARTS THEN DIES. CHECKED CHARGING SYSTEM ALTERNATOR OUTPUT WAS 12.5 WHICH IS TOO LOW. BATTERY WAS FROZEN DUE TO COLD TEMP. GOT ALTERNATOR REBUILT AND INSTALLED BRAND NEW INTERSTATE BATTERY. CAR WORKED FINE FOR A MONTH OR SO AND IS BACK TO ME AGAIN. I CHECKED THE BATTERY DRAIN AND COULD SEE CLEARLY THAT SOMETHING WAS DRAINING THE BATTERY AT A VERY RAPID RATE. DEFINITELY AN ELECTRICAL PROBLEM IN THE SYSTEM. DIAGNOSING AND FINDING OUT COULD TAKE HOURS. SO I INSTALLED A BATTERY PROTECTOR WHICH WILL CUT OFF POWER TO THE CAR IF IT DETECTS BATTERY GETTING TOO WEAK TO START. WILL SEE HOW THIS WORKS, AS THIS WILL ALWAYS KEEP THE BATTERY ACID FROM FREEZING SINCE IT WILL NOT LET IT DRAIN BELOW CERTAIN VOLTAGE. IF THIS SOLVES THE PROBLEM THEN IT IS FOR SURE WISE TO INVEST LOTS OF HOURS INTO TROUBLESHOOTING THE ELECTRICAL ISSUE...WHICH ARE NOT EASY TO DIAGNOSE IN THESE CARS EVEN THOUGH I AM AN ELECTRICAL ENGINEER. TRY THE BATTERY PROTECTOR. IT IS ONLY $69.99 AND PRETTY EASY TO INSTALL. RO
I've owned a used S type for five years. There were electrical problems, including battery drain and moon roof malfunctions. Found out that Jags require a special battery (costs about $250). I didn't want to believe it. None of the service places I went to ever said anything about it, but came to find out that it indeed a requirement, or there will be problems.
I have exactly the same problem. I have had a new alternator fitted and it still drains the battery every few weeks. The car runs great but The dials do some very strange things including the speedo showing acceleration from 20 to 170 mph in under 1 second!! If you find a solution would you mind sharing it ??
ditto!! same question - our XJS has gone thru so many batteries we're going crazy - Do you have LoJack? - we're wondering if that is the battery draining culprit - possible do you think?
I may need to check the years on this but i think it was '00-'02's, there is a instance of battery draw with a relay that sticks, there is a jumper lead that can be installed to correct the problem. The best way to check for a draw is a OHM meter, there should be no more than 30 miliamps after an hour( all doors shut and alarm off)
my 1996 XJs convertable HAS THE SAME PROBLEM - WE'RE wondering if the LOJAK can be the draining problem?
LOJACk usually has a low draw on a battery. Did you try and disconnect it? Did you check to see how high the draw was?
I purchased my 2000 S type in March 2010, one week later, i noticed it would often slip while driving(RPM's would rare but wouldn't move),and it would take like 7 Second to go in gear when shiftig. Two weeks later I park on a very "SLIGHT INCLINE" without using parking break. i ended up breaking the gear shifter trying to get the car into gear($1,000) i figured this was ok because when i replaced the and shifter and cable, it stoped the slipping thing. About 2 months later my check engine came on and i took it to FireStone and they let me that it was just a broken sensor and it was no big deal but recommended i replace it. When I purchaced my car it never had the cd magizine, so last week got a CD/DVD player in installed( mistake #1). Everything seemed to be working fine. Two days later i drove from Los Angeles to Riverside (mistake #2). About 30mins later i got back in my car and the battery light was on. I tryed to get to the Auto Zone less the one mile away and evey single sensor came on in the car and it shut down. AAA came can let me know that it was my battery and alternator. The car had to be towed. I put it in the shop next day, they replaced the alternator did some electrical work an its been back and forth 3 time because they can not figure out the CORRECT problem. I also heard that the car ONLY TAKES A SPECIFIC battery! Could that be the problem? This car is costing me WAAAAAAY too much$$$$ Can this cars ever be fixed 100% ?
I have 2002 x-type five speed manual had the battery problem, Went to the Jaguar Dealer and had a new Jag Battery installled along with cable replacement. This works and sometimes the car does start immediately but after two tries it starts.
I have a 2002 XKR, a 2002 X-Type and a 2000 S-Type... all seem to have quirks but all great cars. I found on my 2000 S-type there is a switch in the truck for the trunk light. This is a button (push in style of switch) and it had broke where it wouldn't reach the area it needed to depress enough to turn off. No one ever thinks to check their truck... so my battery would frequently end up dead.. since I do not drive this car daily.. it became a major frustration. I finally found this issue one day. I was going to replace the switch but I ended up drilling a hole and using a ford style rubber front hood adjuster and I fitted it to the lower area where the truck light switch contacts. This depresses the button fully and turns off my trunk light. My battery has been up since then!!! :-) the modification looks like it came from the factory that way.. so all is good. I am currently working through the no power to the radio issue and its missing on cyclinders 3 and 4 but im sure that is the valve cover gasket/coil pack issue. AJ
Hello ,mi son had a jag x tipe before and had same problem i was electrician mechanic in Cuba what i dit just go sears put the best gold batery and problem fixed waht hapen jag's need a lot amps tu runs electric sistem now mi son had s-tipe R and well is good car but no easy when i have to work on it
go sears buy the bes international batery (gold) fixed problems.
I have a 2002 s-type Jag. Battery kept going dead. Trusted mechanic said it was a low-level drain that would take hours or weeks to find. I now make sure my GPS and iPod are turned off after I turn the car off, b/c if not, the car drains.
My 2003 XKR recently began having problems with Navigation/Clock (stopped working) and the radio became intermittent. This was several weeks ago - this morning the car was dead - no lights - nothing. I was able to jump the car and took it to a Jaguar specialty shop (very honest). The checked the system and came back output was too low. Recommended an alternator - this will cost me around $600 for an OEM. I got a quote from another shop priced at $1100. The other shop made a comment that the Alternators in these type of cars rarely go bad. A little nervous getting this done later in the week.
Hey guys my car did the same thing I have a 2001 jaguar s type 4.0 my battery was going dead about every ten days so I slept in my car one night and found the problem the radio comes on by it self and runs the battery down so now when i get out of my car I cut the radio off and I had no more problem with my battery
Dear Friends , dont spend yor money on battery or alternator ....I had a battery draining problem with my year 2000 s type ....You should check the wirings of luggage compartment door (where the wirings could be damaged when you open and close luggage compartment door during all these years)....wirings can be damaged or cut , causing luggage compartment lamps remain ON ..so it kills your cars battery....thats what happened to me...hope it was helpful
The troubleshooting process is very simple, BUT; time consuming. You will need: A multimeter. 2 clamps. A fuse puller. (a second person is helpful when you can't see the meter. Everything is about CURRENT. Voltage is the carrier, but current does the work. Current is measured in AMPERES. In small measurements, it is called milliamperes. You need to charge the battery fully. Get distilled water and fill up the cells, there are plenty of you tube videos. What you will be looking for is a parasitic drain. Your battery powers everything. Then it is replenished by the battery. Ok, once you have the items mentioned above, you need to take a few precautions. Wear insulating gloves. Wear eye protection. Bypass door switches (so the car doesn't ring chimes and use current and mess up your readings) Ok, Voltage is measured in PARALLEL. This is when you take your meter, select DC Voltage, and place the red lead on the positive terminal, and the black lead on the black terminal. Because your meter is on the same places the car gets it's power from, this is parallel. Current on the other hand is measured in SERIES. Place your meter's selection on AMPEREs. (some meters have an extra connection for the lead when using for high amp circuits) That is like a chain of events. One thing is connected to another thing, then to another and so on. You MUST break the chain of electrical connection and place the meter on amperes in that break. So, disconnect the negative lead on the battery, and place your meters leads red to the cable you disconnected, and black to the battery's terminal. You are now in series with the battery. Assuming that nothing is turned on in the car, and everything is working like a charm, you should read about .050 amps. Or 50 milliamps. Some may be higher, some may be lower, but that is a standard to go by. If you are reading a larger amount of amps, like 1 or 2 apmps or more, then you have a drain on your system that WILL eventually drain your battery. The trick now is, pull EVERY fuse one at a time and replace it. Once you pull the fuse that cause the drain to stop, ( reading on meter drops to .050 or so), then you have found the affected circuit with the component draining your power. If that circuit has multiple items on it, then you will need a schematic to see what all is powered. In order to see the steps I am taking about, please goto https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KF1gijj03_0 Good luck. If you are not comfortable using the steps I listed, please get someone who is.
replace your starter as my 2000 s-type have the same problem,draining the battery or killing the battery.The starter is engaging even the engine is shut off and that is why it is draining the battery.hope this will help you.
THIS CAR TAKES A SPECIAL COMBINATION DEEP CYCLE AND STARTING BATTERY NOTHING ELSE, GO ONLINE PRICE THEM ABOUT 300.00 GET THE PROPER SIZE, PUT IT IN AND PROBLEM SOLVED. AN ALTERNATIVE IS TO BUY A BATTERY CUT OFF SWITCH ABOUT 100.00, IT WILL CUT THE POWER OFF AT 11.8 VOLTS, YOU WILL LOOSE YOUR ALARM, BUT NOT YOUR STARTING ABILITY, IT ATTACHES TO THE BATTERY POLES AND TO TURN IT OFF YOU STEP ON THE BRAKES AND PUT THE LIGHTS ON AND OFF THEN THE IGNITION WILL COME BACK ON AVAILABLE AT GEMPLERS.COM
here is something to look at. when you pull the key out it doesn't turn the car off. there is a little catch in the switch.
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