Transmission issues or computer?

I forgot to mention that when I remove the 20 amp fuse for the pcm I put it right back in and its not blown or anything its perfectly normal

Hey, did you ever get this resolved...? I'm having the EXACT same problem with my 2006 Dakota.

Add me to the exact same symptom list. 2006 with 73k miles. Anyone get it sorted?

I got a new computer again and it solved the problem until just recently where it happened all over again. Even with the new computer it still was shifting weird but i let it be. Just ordered yet another computer. still have no clue what is going on

Thanks so much for that! Looking around online with these symptoms and my heart just sank at what I am finding. Had no clue these trannies evidently notorious....sure cant afford a new one, and countless trips to a shop for trial and error has little appeal as well. Think I’ve read that the computer has to be programmed specifically to each vehicle? Or am I mistaken and it is plug and play? Thank you! J

The computer needs to be programmed to the vin of your truck. So yes it needs to be programmed specifically for each vehicle. The computer makes it seem as if the transmission is going because on these dakotas the ecm and pcm are one. Meaning that the computer controls the engine and transmission so when the computer fails it sends error codes out thinking the transmission is failing when its actually not. In my case about 13 codes pop up on my obd scanner.

Thanks again for the great help! It’s off to Dodge in the morning.

same problem with my 06 dakota. what a nightmare, but $$$ honey bucket for the mechanics

same problem with my 2006 dodge dakota... so irritating. Any one have a solution yet?

I have an 06 as well and got several codes. Took it to the tranny shop and had it rebuilt. When we got it back, the temp light came on and the chime started up. The chime is very weak but continuous. Now the shop is telling me that the PC is probably bad. I'm thinking the PC was the cause all along and sending false codes...is this happening to anyone else? KA-CHING$$$

I have an 06 4.7 4x4 same trans trouble, I disconnected pos. battery cable grounded cable to ground turned ing.key to on and start. turned off key. reinstalled pos. cable- engine lite off trans.---ok,,,,,how long will last -??? good for 4 weeks now. BoB

Bought a code reader and I have and I will be checking the reader constantly for a period of at least one month to see what codes appear.... so far all the codes are either PO846 (three times) and PO876 (six times). When i have taken the truck to a mechanic they have told me it's the computer... that is without me telling them I have been reading codes. Soon I will take it to the oldest Transmission repair in my town and test their honesty

I was having the same problem with mine but insted of assuming it was the computer I took it to the dodge house an the mechanic informed me that there is a control box that the computer talks to an that it was bad, I had them change it an havnt had a problem since. Hope this helps.

Hey BornMopar... what is the exact name of that control box you mentioned, where is it located, and do you have a photo of this magnificent find?

I have a 2006 dodge dakota 4.7 liter engine with codes p0700 and p0876 or p1603. And the transmission is in limp mode some times. Does anybody know if is the computer

Beginning to think that some of the Dodge trucks are built as money pools for dodge parts and mechanics... so sad.

Keeper2018 That is what I was informed of at the dodge house, All I know is that it is a control box that tells the tranny what the computer says, (rpm, shit point etc). It seems that ot was a malfunction from factory that was never recalled since ot didn't inhibit saftey standards. I took mine in around March an havnt had a problem with it since.

2006 dodge Dakota is notorious for going into limp mode and staying in higher gear with higher rpms. The problem is definitely electronic, this has fixed the codes p0882 no codes on my truck now. Unhook battery both battery cables. Locate the ecm and lubricate using dialectic grease the harness contact points in every hole, plug in. Hook battery cables back up, turn key to on position after 5 seconds start back up. If this does not solve the problem you will need a new ecm

Let me know if the above works for you

I have the sa.e problem with my dodge dakota 2006. It goes in to limp in mode. But some times. I turm it of and start again taking off the key and goes ti normal. I do not what ti do. If is ignition swith or not. Ani help with this

Read above your post grease the ecm wireharness terminals should be at least 2-3 terminals get the dialectic grease in the homes real good. the ecm controls the transmission and the engine outputs, read the instructions 2 post above your pose please

Best Answer Read above your post grease the ecm wireharness terminals should be at least 2-3 terminals get the dialectic grease in the homes real good. the ecm controls the transmission and the engine outputs, read the instructions 2 post above your pose please

No longer having the problem. It is either the cooler weather or the maybe that I started turning my key over (using the other side of the key) because I was having to turn the key to start several times before it started. Now wonder if it was the key along, so more research needed. Took it to Honest Mechanic 1 here in Tyler, Texas and the mechanic told me I needed a new computer (no way). If you use a code reader you know that the reading is only taken in the on position and if you take a code reading when the engine is running it will read "New Computer".

If the problem with the transmission on my 2006 Dodge Dakota comes back I will try the Dialectic Grease suggested by GuruX86VY, but have high hopes that I don't see the check engine light, or need to use the code reader for a long time. The code I was getting PO876 is the same code I got for 3 months straight, minus one code read of PO846.

Cooler weather heading into Winter has completely stopped the check engine light and transmission hot warning light from coming on, so maybe I should trade this truck in before warm weather starts again... not laughing.

Just posting what has happened to my truck as well in hopes to help people with the same symptoms. I own a 2006 Dodge Dakota SLT 4X4 V6 and like everyone above I was getting either no shifting at all or intermittent shifting. I was getting codes P0700, P0822, and another P08 code for low voltage to the TCM (can't remember the exact code, will update later). After dealing with multiple shops the dealership finally said they knew the problem. The PCM was bad and needed replaced, after the replacement all codes were gone. Unfortunately the truck is still not shifting correctly and is in the shop for further diagnostics $$$. I will update again once I hear back from the dealership today. I am very fortunate to have bought an extended warranty that has covered almost all the repairs to this money pit of a truck so far. I have put about $1000 in it myself while my warranty has paid for around $4000. My advice is to stay away from the Dodge Dakota's that were made in 2001-2009. Your wallet will thank you.

Agree with HashBrowning... avoid 2001 to 2009. Maybe take a bigger step and avoid all Dodge trucks.

I just received the news. Truck needs a new transmission as well since metal shards were found on the filter side. I’m selling the truck, I have never been so frustrated with a vehicle in my life. First and last Dodge I will ever buy. I agree with keeper2018 even more now, do not buy Dodge trucks.

Sorry to hear the news HashBrowning.. It is a sad day when someone buys a car, or truck and finds out it is a LEMON and the manufacturer will not stand behind a fix of the problem. Dodge will never get a recommendation or referral from me... Finally gave up on this truck. Good luck with your next choice of vehicle HashBrowning.

Dialectic grease is only a temp fix. We ended up buying a reman computer pcm, and truck shifts great now, no transmission getting hot light or anything coming on. Throwing no codes

Where did you buy the reman..computer from Mark?

On eBay All computer resources

Come on folks let’s keep this going! Let me hear how your trucks are doing

I replaced my 4th computer in june with a different brand off Ebay and I installed it myself, took about an hour. Everything seems to be working 100% and I have had no problems with it. Cost me about $250 for the computer and like I said installed it myself. It saved me a lot of money and frustration. At this point it seems like the problem was the computer

Get back to me when the weather warms up again.. "Spring time".. After the cooler weather hit East Texas I had no "Check Engine" light come on until the weather had an unusually warm day about 80 degrees and the damn "check Engine" light came back. My code reader before the cooler weather hit was showing 0876 and ever so often 0846 both of which involve Transmission Fluid Pressure Switch... I have yet to replace that Sensor, but if I keep this truck I will replace it or have it replaced. Keep me posted people.

My ole 2006 dodge Dakota is still running strong with the reman computer. No check engine lights or any codes

I have a 2004 and having the same problems. I found a post a while back where voltage was likely the problem. Basically if the computer or solenoids aren't getting the correct voltage, they will through problem codes. This could be why someone here has gone through 4 computers.. Just a thought, I don't know. I've had my alt. checked and its fine. I've checked every solenoid and connection I could find and cleaned them up, still nothing. Now I will make an observation on my particular truck.. I noticed when I clear the codes and run it during the day (no headlights) and keep the air off, it will drive fine, no codes thrown. At night with the lights on or, if I just turn on the A/C ( I live in Florida so its a must), I cannot keep the codes off. I think this kind of goes along with the voltage theory. If I'm driving at night (headlights on) and turn on the blinker, I notice all my dash lighting slightly dims with each flash of the blinker, (voltage again) so this is something to check. I'll be checking every ground wire under the hood I can find this weekend, Also changing out the shift solenoid in the tranny. I'll update any progress.

When Cooler weather came in the Fall all of the check engine codes stopped and the transmission overheat icon would no longer appear. Now the weather is warming and I am seeing the transmission overheat icon and have had the check engine light come on at least once, so it must be associated with heat and cold sensor. Hate calling Dodge Dealers or mechanics as they all respond "bring in the truck" which means we will find and charge you many dollars.

consider the computer the issue several people have had issues and changed them and vehicle has done great. I’m one of those people in several posts above that changed computer and no issues in winter no issues in the sunmer

Best Answer Dialectic grease is only a temp fix. We ended up buying a reman computer pcm, and truck shifts great now, no transmission getting hot light or anything coming on. Throwing no codes

Hello have a blue 2006 Dodge Dakota 4.7 L V8 quad cab my computer is also going into limp mode you can get by by pulling the battery but it isn't good for your computer or your transmission solenoids transmission pressure sensor is easy and cheap on that's on the outside of the transmission on the passenger side rear behind a heat shield from what I remember it was like four bolts you also have the speed input and the speed output sensor on the transmission you can change as well as cheap then you have the solenoid block for the five for five transmission that runs a few hundred dollars and the computer I found online you can buy cheapest for $220 it's plug-and-play they program it to your VIN number before they send it to you on the inside of the transmission you have the pressure governor and of course your filters and fluid I would personally replace all these things before I bring it to a shop to replace the transmission I think somebody on this thread said to grease the computer terminals with dielectric also. Replace accessible cheap parts before you dig in internally has always been my opinion

Update for my 04 Dakota.. I changed out the shift solenoid which is inside the transmission. Of course changed the filters as well. Also changed out the pressure sensor which is on the outside passenger side of the transmission. So far everything is good, shifts like a dream. I also unhooked the battery while I did all that on the truck to reset the pcm.

I forgot when you change the solenoid there is a way to teach the computer if you don't change the computer out at the same time let the trunk set for 10 to 20 minutes when you get in you start it put the emergency brake on go to 1st gear 2nd gear drive neutral Park slowly do this one two times somehow it teaches the computer nose buying the solenoid from AutoZone he pulled up how to re-teach a computer. At first I put the new pressure solenoid on the engine light stay on and I bothered the poor guy at the front desk until he pulled up some dealership information it look like it fixes my problem if the check engine light ever comes on when I'm installing new solenoids

Hey Mechanic Mike... that sounds like something I might try before ever buying a new pressure sensor... amazing how all the mechanics want to sell me a new computer, lol. Guess many mechanics forget that Auto Zone and others sell a Code Reader and we the novice consumers buy those to check our Truck and Car problems before going to repair the vehicle or buy parts. Not wanting to put any repair mechanic on report, but here in Tyler, Texas... "Honest ____," told me the ECM (computer) needed to be replaced and I have never had that code come up on my code reader. The mechanic could have made $200 to $300 replacing the pressure sensor but he chose to pick the most costly item to repair, as do most dishonest mechanics.

I tried resetting the computer before replacing the shift solenoid and pressure sensor.. It didn't work for me. There's a good video on youtube for changing both of those out on these trucks, its an easy job. I bought both of my parts off ebay. A genuine Mopar solenoid and the 2 filters and gasket kit for $259 and, the governer pressure sensor for $11.88. I went ahead and installed a drain plug in the tranny pan, just because it's a nuisance to drop those without one.

At present, I am getting code # 0876 which is a fluid pressure sensor, so that is the first item for me to replace. Thank you Ramitt360 for your update and advice

I've had my 2006 dakota 4.7 five years and although the hot trans fluid light had been coming on and off a few months and check engine on and off it's just now started the junk every ones talking about here Am I lucky?? 143000 miles

I have a 2006 Dodge Dakota 3.7L 144K miles. No codes are coming on, but my transmission shift up and down repeatedly between 30-50 mph. I have replaced the speed sensor, and still having issues. I have been told it could be a vacuum leak, the IAC valve, the MAP sensor, the transmission pressure sensor, many different things. Nothing definite. I have changed the transmission filter and fluid. It still only shift up and down between 30-50mph. Any ideas? I am thinking of trying to reset my computer as I read above.

Has any one tryed to replace the trans harness

That's a new one Drew. The mechanics usually go for the big bucks, not the actual problem. The usual diagnosis is to replace: Computer or the Transmission then they move to Sensors and just keep moving around till your bank account is empty.

I hear keeper2018 loud and clear on the issues going away when cooler weather sets in. I have a 2006 Mitsubishi Raider 4.7L with all the issues and codes described on this thread. I've been racking my brain and researching for 2+ years. I think I'm going to replace the electronic ignition switch any see if that help. The low voltage to the TCM may be caused by it not receiving the 3 volts its suppose to get at start up. if that doesn't work I guess I'll have the solenoid pack changed on the tranny and cross my fingers. Good luck all

Any updates? I have had the exact symptoms described. I have replaced the ignition switch, solenoid pack, ECM, and transmission pressure switch. Still, have the same intermediate transmission limp mode. Any help is appreciated!

well its always possible for one of those new part to be defective. It's rare but it just happened with me recently. Improper voltage can be the problem. I had a different problem on another type of vehicle and had the alternator tested. It showed it was good so I moved on. After a few more nights of not knowing what to do, I replaced the alternator anyway, last resort.. That fixed my problem.

I have gone back to the trans fluid because I truly believe that a long the way a couple of not so honest mechanics added more trans fluid and that to much fluid is causing the PCM codes. That is someone consistent with all the PCM codes which are coming up and turning on the check engine light.

I am having basically the same problem. I get 6 of the same codes, P0846, P0971, P0988, P0876 ( pressure senor codes), P0882 (low signal input), P0700. I notice that they only come up when I have a rough shift from Park into Drive. After 10 secs of driving the codes come up. I can clear the codes and the truck will run fine. I have tested the trans relay, the input to the relay, pins 18 and 19 on the TCM from the relay, tested the resistance between the relay and the TCM . I have replaced the the Total Integrated Power Module and the Front Control Module. I have also replace the trans fluid and both filters. Any ideas or help on fixing this problem. This is one of the best post I have found about this problem.

dodge_irritation, what you are describing happed to me and I had to buy a computer off ebay and install it myself. After that everything was good, I had to replace the oil pressure sensor shortly after but that might be because it was old

The only thing that's weird is the shifting points are a little off, has that happened to anyone else.

Dodgedakota06, thanks for the info. That was my next step and I can get one for $180 programmed to my vin and lifetime warranty with replacements. If this doesn't fix it I will be taking it to a friend who is the head mechanic for a ford dealership who used to work on Dodges. Thankful he does side work.

Dodge_irritation, where did you find the computer for $180 programmed? My 06 dodge Dakota is currently in the shop and they are saying its around $900 and they are having difficulty even finding one.

Dammit_dodge. The shop did the same thing to me, wanted to charge $900 for a computer and that $900 computer failed me 5x. Go onto EBAY and search around, you can find one programmed for cheap. I got mine for around $240. And the shop charges outrageous money for installation. It took me 45 minutes in my front yard and the problem was fixed. You can 100% do it yourself and there are plenty of youtube videos that help

Damnit_dodge, check out allcomputerresources.com. That is where I found the one I am planning to get.

I'm an idiot when it comes to mechanics. So I looked on that website and only seen engine computers for my 06 dodge, but that is different from a transmission computer correct?

Dammit_dodge, no the pcm and ecm are one computer. So the engine and transmission run off of 1 computer

Replaced my computer from ACR with only short term success. Installed myself and followed startup procedure to the letter. The codes and symptoms continue and are so random its not been fun to troubleshoot. I’ve done much of what has been suggested on here without getting into wholesale part replacement, which in reading has not been the solution. (I dont think) Been to independent mechanic and dealership. Earlier post from KEEPER2018 proved interesting in my case......issue definitely diminished during the cooler winter months.....and I’m in central FL! Dodge-irritation; all my events are upon that same rough shift from park to to R or D. When it does that, I’m in for trouble with the codes and high rev rolling start with rough or limited shifting through the gears. Most times I pull over, shut down for a few minutes, restart and am good to go for a couple of days........ Could be 3-4 weeks.......repeat. Other times it requires a battery disconnect reconnect and Im ok for awhile.

I appreciate your knowledge and quick response, thank you. I'll continue to follow this feed as it seems were all in the same broke down boat with this issue.

Some resourceful folks on here and am hopeful someone attains hero status to all of us with a fix. Maybe it’ll even be me as I pay close attention to what and when it occurs and Im determined to connect the dots one of these days. Had a 2003 I bought used and never had a problem. Liked it so much bought the 2006 used. (Oops) Sure has soured me towards Dodge. Find it incredible the treatment Ive received from them, who now just want to incrementally replace everything related......(including my self-installed ECM) I dont have the time or the money for the (lets see if this fixes it) approach. Continuing to follow with you and good luck to all.

Was reluctant at first in attacking the repairs, but now it seems to be part-hobby and part- mad (no nothing), mechanic. Come to the realization that the first mechanic who replaced my ECM/PCM may have put in a bad unit, so now looking at finding another ECM/PCM at a decent price. If nothing else this truck has taught me to never trust a mechanic again and renewed some of my skills repairing Cars and Trucks, so there are some positive vibes coming from this Dodge Dakota mess. Who has had luck with replacing ECM/PCM and where did you find that unit at a price of $180.00?

Has anyone done anymore testing on the voltage issue? I have hooked up a couple multi- meters to certain points (trans relay, pin 18 and 19 on TCM harness) and have gone though 100 plus cycles and notice a few interesting things. Turning the key to run, after the truck has been sitting in the sun all day, the voltage goes to 12v then drops to 0v. Let the truck sit overnight and cool off and the voltage stays at 12v when key is in the on position. If I turn the key quickly to start and start the truck the voltage will stay at 12v even when the truck is hot and has been sitting in the sun all day. Anyone else been doing these type of tests?

Dodge_irritation if I start my key quickly my transmission works perfectly. If I’m slow to turn key it jumps into 3rd gear every time. I’m I’ve changed ignition switch and cleans battery cables. Still the same

GuruN9BC9 the jumpimg into third gear has to do with the transmission computer not get enough voltage on the trans computer and the trans computer shutting off the trans relay which then forces the truck into "limp mode". For some reason quickly turing the key and engaging the start up sequence in the truck keeps the voltage high enough for the computer to not shut off the trans relay.

Just to throw it out there if you all are still having trouble with your limp mode problem I haven’t tryed this yet have the set up in the garage. I have had my problem for 5 years now with my truck. Anyway I don’t have the link but if you google trans relay by pass it will telll you how you can use a different relay and how to wire it up to bypass the tipm. If you also google your p code for low volt to pcm/tcm you will find a lot of pt cruisers with this problem. Limp mode. I believe my tipm/ fuse box in the engine bay is bad might be the same for other I don’t know but it’s a cheap fix if it works. If you don’t want to cut into your harness just stop by a junk yard and cut out the c4 plug for tour truck depin them and just use them. Anyway though I would throw this out there since no one else said anything about the tipm. I I get my in and it works will be let you all know

I am still here and the truck (2006 Dakota SL) is still doing great in the Wintertime (runs near perfect) and in the Summertime the dash light for trans overheating comes on and the codes from the ECM-PCM are still turning on the 'check engine light' in the summer (hot months) but not the cool Fall and Winter months. Someone very dear to me asked me why I didn't trade it in during the winter or put a for sale sign on it while it was running great in the cooler or cold months ~ I told them there was no way I would put another person through the hell this truck has caused me and now I am determined to figure out the root cause or causes and fix them myself if at the young age of 73 I am capable (smile). When the day comes that I no longer want to tinker with this 2006 Dodge Dakota SL I will call a local 'Junk Yard' and have it hauled away. I did buy a new car so that I have transportation to get parts for the ever failing 2006 Dodge Dakota SL...

Keeper2018, I am still here too. I wish BornMopar would come back and give us more details about that mystery box that fixed his problem. I have done a buch of testing and have narrowed it down to a few items.

Same, still here, still living the Dodge dream....feel the same as Keeper, have thought to get the codes cleared and get to the nearest dealer and trade it in. Cant bring myself to stick it to someone like that. Have been trying Dodge_Irritation’s quick key method with some success though cannot be sure enough to claim “eureka”! (Sometimes may not be as quick as others) Changed the battery prematurely with all the low voltage theories.....no luck there. Standing by.......

Drew, can you send me more information on what you did. I bypassed my TIPM for the tcm relay and still had a problem on occasion. Has anyone tried to replicate the problem in cold weather, ie remove the voltage from the tcm relay and see if you have the same issues? I think I will try it this weekend and see what happens. I also suspect it is the plastic connectors on the TCM/PCM that come lose during the hot days that cause the drop in voltage, which causes the problem we are having.

It would be nice if BornMopar explained that miracle cure with the mystery box that fixed his Dodge Dakota problem, but he must have traded his truck, or sent it to junk heap. Like2006Dakota4x4 I too changed the truck battery prematurely and it solved nothing. Like the thought that dodge-irritation has on the plastic connectors as that really makes sense. Also found this but not sure it applies (code reader hit me with a PO882 code and it was the first time I have received that code amazing stuff.. here is the note that came with PO882 code ~~~~ Code P0882 indicates there isn't enough power getting to the transmission module. This is usually due to a problem with the power input circuit. The 'low' portion of the diagnostic trouble code (DTC) indicates a short circuit, whereas 'high' would indicate and open circuit.

ONE OF THE REMAN PCM SELLERS NOTED PCM LOCATION AS POSSIBLE CAUSE

NCDAKOTA7, The only issue I know about with location is that the a/c condenser is by the wires from the pcm and the condensation can drip into the wires sometimes. Do you have anymore info about why the location would be bad? Any suggestions on where to move the pcm to?

is it too close to the exhaust manifold? where are our manufactures pcm's located

NCDAKOTA07, the pcm for the third gen dakotas is mounted to the passenger fender back by the firewall and up by the hood. So top left and towards the back if you stand in front of the truck.

Is this the same location on the full sized trucks?

where are other manufacturers pcm's located

ARE ALL OF THE THREADS ON HERE ABOUT A HARDWARE P/N P05094 PCM?

HAD MY '07 PCM REPLACED & PROGRAMMED TODAY WITH ONE FROM AN '07 RAIDER. MY OLD ONE WAS A 612AJ. A VERY DETERMINED PROGRAMMER AT MY LOCAL DODGE DEALER DID SOME DIGITAL GYMNASTICS TO GET THE EXPORT PCM PROGRAMMED TO MY TRUCK. HOPEFULLY THIS WILL FIX MY FALSE TRANSMISSION CODES & GOING INTO LIMP MODE. I WILL UPDATE LATER

NCDAKOTA07 What check engine codes were you getting when the truck went into limp mode? Did you notice a hard shift into eithet drive or reverse?

BTW, MY DODGE STORE SAID THEY GET REMAN'S FROM FS1

I WAS GETTING A P0620 I THINK, SHIFT SOLENOID C AT OPERATING TEMP, TRANS WOULD FREE WHEEL SHIFTING FROM 3RD TO OD, BUCK UP, THEN GO INTO LIMP MODE

Same problem here. Had the PCM replaced under 8/80 emissions warranty when the damn thing went into limp in mode. It's definitely more prevalent when the ambient goes above 95F. Here in Phoenix, that's common. Although the temp warning light comes on randomly, at temps above 95 it seems to happen in the same general location. Near a river. Does anyone know if there's a barometric pressure sensor in the system?

I turn the heater on and the light turns off so removing heat does solve the problem. The only thing is that running the heater at 100 plus is kind of a bitch.

Wildeagle64: The temp in Texas is above 95 all the time. I found mine starts to act up with the temp above 90. I originally though it might be the PCM when I heated up just the PCM with a blow dryer on a cold morning and watch the truck have the same issues when it is hot outside. Replaced the PCM and still having the same issues. I am now suspecting it might be the C4 connector to the PCM. What check engine do you get and have you done any testing like I have listed above?

But my truck 2 years ago 06 Dodge Dakota Club cab 4.7 170000 miles on it now when I bought the traffic had a hundred forty thousand miles on it what's acrimony same thing happened to me I shut the key off start again and everything's fine couple weeks a month it will happen again sometimes when I start my truck the transmission light inside comes on so I will shut it off sometimes when I tried to start it it will happen again but play twice in a row in the rapid three times in a row so I put 20000 miles on it what's it doing this same thing reverse I'm driving it seems like it's taking off in 2nd gear 3rd gear turn it off service engine light don't come on but I have noticed Mikey is running loose in my ignition my door open the buzzer don't come on but if I remove the key around door buzzer will turn on and off it's got something to do with my key being loose that's the only thing that makes it work right is moving the key to restarting it if it was one of these other problems something would have went out by now Twenty Thousand Miles later I worked on my own vehicles for last 27 years 27 years I think there's a problem with the chip that is in my key not picking up with vehicle and it throws it into limp mode like somebody's trying to steal it is it until May 3rd like somebody's trying to steal it it's almost like my vehicle don't know it's got the right key in it sometimes when I start it two or three times in the last year good morning register that I was shifting into gear are my Dash it stayed in Park so I shut the key off move the key around start it I would run fine a couple of times it wouldn't start or turn over like it didn't know it was in park so I hit the brake push up on the shifter and it would start so today I am going to put a new key tumbler in my steering column bypass having a chipped key everybody has done great telling the symptoms they all fit I've been wondering for 2 years if any other vehicles have the same symptoms of mine I ran across all these last night I have not changed anything to try to fix the problem all I've done is shut it off and restart it I will let everybody know if it works

But my truck 2 years ago 06 Dodge Dakota Club cab 4.7 170000 miles on it now when I bought the traffic had a hundred forty thousand miles on it what's acrimony same thing happened to me I shut the key off start again and everything's fine couple weeks a month it will happen again sometimes when I start my truck the transmission light inside comes on so I will shut it off sometimes when I tried to start it it will happen again but play twice in a row in the rapid three times in a row so I put 20000 miles on it what's it doing this same thing reverse I'm driving it seems like it's taking off in 2nd gear 3rd gear turn it off service engine light don't come on but I have noticed Mikey is running loose in my ignition my door open the buzzer don't come on but if I remove the key around door buzzer will turn on and off it's got something to do with my key being loose that's the only thing that makes it work right is moving the key to restarting it if it was one of these other problems something would have went out by now Twenty Thousand Miles later I worked on my own vehicles for last 27 years 27 years I think there's a problem with the chip that is in my key not picking up with vehicle and it throws it into limp mode like somebody's trying to steal it is it until May 3rd like somebody's trying to steal it it's almost like my vehicle don't know it's got the right key in it sometimes when I start it two or three times in the last year good morning register that I was shifting into gear are my Dash it stayed in Park so I shut the key off move the key around start it I would run fine a couple of times it wouldn't start or turn over like it didn't know it was in park so I hit the brake push up on the shifter and it would start so today I am going to put a new key tumbler in my steering column bypass having a chipped key everybody has done great telling the symptoms they all fit I've been wondering for 2 years if any other vehicles have the same symptoms of mine I ran across all these last night I have not changed anything to try to fix the problem all I've done is shut it off and restart it I will let everybody know if it works

Guru65CN: Does the problem seem to happen more when it is hot outside or just at random? Let us know if you replacing the tumbler and key/chip helps fix the problem.

I live in Missouri and it don't matter if it's winter time summer time it happens all year round at random but if I start it in the morning and happens it might not happen all day again or it might happen later on that day but all I do is turn the key off wiggle the key and turn it back on and it fixes the problem but I'm going to try changing my key tumbler

Guru65TCN just reminded me of two individual events from quite sometime ago I had forgotten about. That being upon startup and shifting to drive, the dash indicator remained in park....... I tried this shifting a few times and was almost amused in a wtf now? sort of way as it remained in park.....after shutting down and restarting..........all was back to (normal). The second event was turning the key to start resulting in total darkness, nothing on the dash much less the engine. This occurred a few times until I played with the shifter to confirm in park. (It was of course)......but, on the next start attempt all was again right in Dakota world. I continue to Intermittently endure all the other issues we all seem to share, but as mentioned, these two events had slipped my mind.....so Guru65, I have experienced your symptoms also. I never thought of your key/tumbler angle and am eager to hear your findings.

It is definitely putting it in security mode tripping singing help with chip in the computer quick enough so we need to fix relation in the chip is in your key or do away with the chip in the key trying to change the battery in your keys look inside your steering column four wires that are skinned ripped a hole in them everything's looking great we'll see how it goes

I have a 2007 Dodge Dakota 3.7 v6 that has 165,000 miles on it the transmission has been shifting hard for about the last 80,000 miles took it to transmission shop they told me the transmission needed to be replaced now I don't know much about cars but I've never seen a slipping transmission last 80,000 miles...last summer the rpms would get stuck around 3,000 and if I turned off the truck and restarted it problem would go away. Only code coming up is rpms are higher than they are supposed to be. Any suggestions ? Really don't want to put a new transmission in this truck I really don't think it's worth it.....

2006 Dakota 4x4 V6 with 99k mikes. My previous tranny was giving codes like p0700,p1775,p0740! I change fluid, filter, also bought a new valve body! Car as always drive normal for a while than codes come back again. Made a decision to complete change the tranny hopping will solve the problem. Guess what? Transmission is worst than before, same issues, vibration when drive, reverse fail sometime! Someone please give a some Light here!

Pitstopcarsales, When the problem with the transmission goes away and then comes back, does it happen to correspond to summer vs winter. Meaning the problem happens when it is hot outside and goes away when it is cool outside?

Not really! I'm so frustrate with it.

Looks like nobody could figure out the properly way to fix this issue!?

pitstop did they do a transmission relearn after installing transmission ? your syptoms sound like they didn't. My friend is getting a P0750 code shift solenoid A we're replacing his shift solenoid this weekend.

So I just got a 05 dodge dakota with 120000 miles a few months ago. Started doing little fixed on it as preventative maintenance engine light came on through a bunch of codes for the tranny started revving High went into limp mode everything that is described up there from 2 years ago & down. Now I've seen nothing that is fix this problem in this forum so I'm guessing no one has found a fix for this I feel like there has to be one but if someone is it down to fix for it please share it

It is definitely a voltage issue on my '06 Dakota. I have had the same or similar issues, currently trying to get to the root of the problem, but the symptoms seem to be caused or happen only when I have the voltage issues, which are more common when I use the lights, wipers, A/C, Radio, or do not turn the key over quickly enough. This is still just a diagnosis, will post again after running the wiring to search for a short or other cause to correct and let you know.

If someone figures this out please let us know it's been driving me crazy for a few months myself.. hopefully we can get to the bottom of it... at this point I'm thinking it is a computer but I don't want to rule out the tipm. The last thing I want to do is waste money on something I don't need. Thank you everyone for your help

Brian, To make sure we are talking about the same issue, my issue is with the transmission control circuit on start up. The voltage drop to below 12v and that cause the trans to go into limp mode. High 2500 rpms to get moving and usually a big jerk/jolt when you shift from park to drive or reverse. I have replace the PCM/TCM, bypassed the TIPM, and it is still having the same issues. I think it is either the one circuit in the trans or a wiring issue. My issue only happens when it is hot, above 90F or more, outside.

Yes I'm having the exact same issue as you

I have a question as a potential solution. I have a 2006 SLT 4.7 with several of the same issues. Transmission service completed with new filters and solenoid replaced. Same issues remained as soon as I drove out of the shop. Has anyone just tried replacing the TPS (Throttle Position Sensor) as I have found literature that can cause it go into limp mode? Dakotas have had TPS sensors be an issue as we have replaced two of them in my buddies 2003 4.7 l Dakota. Why I am wondering that the TPS sensor can be sometimes an issue is because I have occasionally extending cranking when started and will then go into limp mode. These issues are very intermittent all together with weeks at a time as I have deleted the codes and also truck will drive normally with all 15 sensors on without limp mode. Also these symptoms have occurred in all types of weather. https://dodgeforum.com/forum/2nd-gen-durango/348491-transmission-in-limp-mode-could- this-be-tps.html "That code could be tps. I have seen that code a few times on 2nd gens and the tps is usually the problem or a vaccum leak. I don't think it's a vacuum as it seems intermittent. If you got a scan tool handy when it acts up check the throttle position. I have seen them at 80 percent at idle witch would cause the trans in limp also long crank times."

I did replace the TPS for what I believed to be an unrelated issue.........upon startup, the rpm’s would roll or surge. Replacing the TPS cured this however, made no difference with the intermittent issues we all seem to be plagued with here. Something else to ponder...... Both the original (?) TPS and the replacement, upon cold or hot start, begin with a 1000 rpm idle which takes 30 or so seconds to fall off to approx 700. I have found that if I do not wait for this rpm drop and shift into gear, more times than not is followed by the rough shifting shenanigans. This of course is not definite each time......waiting for the rpm to diminish after the startup helps in avoiding the problems.

A lot of times moisture gets into the connectors on the computer and over time you get corrosion on the pins. You can’t really see it but the connectors or pins will turn greenish in color and get an intermittent connection. A new computer comes with clean contacts so that’s probably why replacing the computer works. Hey some CLR, and a q tip and brush it on the connectors, or dip them in a container for a minute. If you see bubbles that means you have corroded connectors and the clr is working. Blow it all dry with compressed air and put some dielectric grease on the connectors. Pop em back in and flick the ignition on and off quickly 5 times ( resets the ecu) and hopefully you get to watch your problems disappear.

I have a 2006 Dodge Dakota with the 4.7 Motor. I'm having the same issues everyone else is having. Always seems to go into limp mode as soon as I put it in reverse and feel the clunk, the check engine light comes on and it feels like is in a high gear and never shifts I've only owned it in the summer time so I don't know if the problem happens in the Winter. I am so fed up with it! I have cleaned then replaced the relay, I took it to the Dealership they had it for a week, found corrosion on the fuses in the Fuse box mounted up top under the hood on the drivers side. They said that was the problem, but could not locate a replacement Also it would be several hours labor at the dealer rate to replace it. I think we all need to get together and hold the manufacture accountable! If anyone knows how to start a class action law suit i'm in, and will do whatever is needed. This issue is driving me crazy. I don't even enjoy driving the vehicle anymore. Also like several of you I just can't see unloading the Truck on someone else to deal with it.

I have the same issue. Time of year doesn't matter really except when it's colder, I can usually drive a farther distance before the transmission jumps into limp mode and staying in what seems to be 3rd gear. When it's hot out it will jump in limp mode a lot sooner. Dodge has been known to have wiring issues and I believe if I were to replace all the wiring it would solve that issue and some of the other random things that happen here and there. I have noticed the throttle position sensor having odd percentages in freeze frame data. I have had the thoughts about an issue with the key/security stuff. Transmission itself or the valve body and stuff. Cat replacement/o2sensor check and or replace. Fuel injectors/pump/etc. All those have came to mind, which I do believe I have a cat issue. I had the engine replaced with a reman from lkq about 30k miles ago. Had the issue before and after. Had all o2sensors, trans fluid and filter, differential oil and the rear brake speed sensor all replaced at that time, then the coil over plugs and wires, throttle position sensor, map/maf sensor, and again the rear brake speed sensor(this was the first issue I ever had with my truck, and I think I'm on my 5th one(haven't tried one from advanced but have tried both Oreileys and AutoZone... Now I'm bout to get number 6) I have noticed that I don't have the limp mode issues when replacing these but it doesn't last long, might last a couple of days or weeks or even a couple of months. I do know that with the one im about to replace, it was only better for maybe 2 days and now after maybe 3 months I have already gotten a major malfunction with this one. The very first time I had a faulty one I had no idea what it was. I first noticed odd idling behaviors at random times, then shifting issues here and there and then the next thing I knew the speedometer had frozen, the odometer stopped adding miles, distance til empty milage wrong, abs and brake indicator lights stayed on. Tried resetting the obd2 codes, the old unhook the battery terminals for a while trick, played around with the key some sure there were other things but don't remember what else. Replaced that simple +/-25 dollar part and the truck ran like new again or at least as good or better than the day I got it with 65k miles on it. I'm now about to turn 200k miles and I'm finding me have replace that part more and more (3 times with the major malfunction issues, once just because something was telling me it was about to fail, I guess after 3 times I have a red flag that pops up in my mind now, once because of an obd2 code... This 6th one is another major malfunction issue. I knew it was messed up again but it's only been like 3mo since I changed it. And I really think it hasn't been quite that long, more like 2 months.... I always go ahead and change the gear oil and clean the rear end out of the old and then let it sit for hours to completely dry before putting the cover back on and I always hit it with some air or microfiber cloth but usually I do both. This has been done 2 times by me and the rest with 3 different mechanics. So it's not a installation issue and there isn't anything to it besides knowing to wiggle and push/pull because twisting will mess up the o-ring and remember to put a little oil on the o-ring) I think a wiring issue is causing the brake speed sensors to go bad though. After replacing the engine, the wiring looks awful..... Shething looks like it's about 20+ years older than it is, I've seen better wire connectors on 10+ year older cars sitting at the edge of the woods for 5+ years, and all the wire loom looks it has a major case of the mange.... Picture fire marshal bill at the end of one of his scenes and about what you got LOL... I've had my 05 Dakota for about 14 years so if you want to ask me any questions about some of the other reasons why I think new wire would fix at least 90% of my trucks issues then let me know. I know a lot of random tricks and stuff such as double turning off the headlights to override the headlight delay time and stuff. *TL;DR* I know it's a long post but I tried to go into detail about things and why and what I think is causing most of the~05 Dakota and other dodge truck issues.

I am just going to throw this out there, as i don't know if it will fix the problem or not. Has anyone ever tried changing the clock spring. Clock springs can cause lots of problems in the electrical system, could be causing a voltage drop in other parts of the system....

Hello y'all I put a transmission cooler recently to bypass the radiator cooler. $30 at AutoZone and the truck runs better in hot climates and better towing. It's a really easy install, I've never had the transmission temp light on the dash again. It's worth looking into.

hellow Lauren? If your still out there your post from 5 months ago describes exactly what has recently started happening to me. Could you tell me what u did to your Dakota if you ever read this.

Guru94RCHR I am still having the same problem. Have taken it to a few dealerships, shops, and even a mechanic that specializes in electronics....sad to say I have come up with nothing. A few places tried to tell me tranny is slipping, or it's the clutch which is absolutely B***S***! Never known a slipping transmission to last 2 years (125,000 miles) which is how long I've been having this issue. I'm pretty sure it's something electronic so taking it to one more shop Tuesday to try again if that doesn't pan out then I will definitely be selling this truck....I am tired. If anyone has figured it out please help!!!

So finally got my 07 Dakota fixed. I've taken it to 3 dealerships, and about 9 different shops they all tried to tell me it was the transmission which I knew was not true because a bad tranny isn't going to last 110,000 miles. Any so the problem ended up being a massive vacuum leak on the back side of the engine! The mechanic told me he has seen this on a few dodges.....this was the first Dodge I've ever owned and will definitely be the last. Just so happy it's finally over been trying to fix this problem for 2 years!

Lauren.. do you know exactly which hose it was??? Maybe take a pic of it or Google one and mark it please. Guess when I can get some extra time I could get some wd-40 or carb/brake cleaner out and go to spraying to see if it revs any and then spray soapy water if the other finds nothing. Thanks in advanced

Beat me to it James. Hoping Lauren responds and identifies the culprit in detail. After her last post I took a look see and my eyes crossed at the number of vacuum lines on this thing. Never considered this could be the problem......and don’t want to disturb a thing more than I have to as it’ll surely open another can of worms. I pulled up some vacuum line schematics online and that confused me to the point that I went hands off without more info.

Lauren, Please let us know either the part number or name of what was leaking. Pictures are even better. This would help a lot of us get over the same frustration your experienced for over two years.

Check your clutch fan, if its not working correctly your transmission will not cool sufficiently. I opened my hood the other day and it was hot as thunder under there, the fan was turning but it wasn't locking up as it should when it gets warm to draw more air through to cool the radiator and trans cooler. I have the same problems as what most of you are having, Trans Temp light coming on then going into limp mode when its hot outside, when its cold no problems. I checked my fan clutch and found it to be lacking in performance, installed a new one. I haven't been able to verify if this works yet as it hasn't been above 30 degrees here in South Dakota. Suppose to be in the 70's next week when I'm in Denver so will find out then. Since installing the fan clutch, its much cooler under the hood, my power has increased and my fuel mileage has gone up some... I haven't owned this truck for very long but I found it kind of weird how hot it would get in the cab even when it was 60 degrees out and no heat on. Not enough airflow through the engine compartment, made it hot in the cab also. Just my 2 Cents.

I have 2003 Dakota 4.7 has 45rfe transmission had it completely rebuilt replaced every sensor would cause trans issue it slips and bangs when u left the gas off have no codes other than trans temp Wich shop cleared said nothing is wrong with tranny been a year I've spent hours and hours working on this truck I'm about to replace the TCM and then if that doesn't work I guess il try replacing ECM as well. For anybody wants to know truck has TCM ECM and body control module

Howdy. 06 Dak 194,000 miles. I've been dealing with the same limp mode, trans temp, rough shifting combo for 3 years now. Started after taking it for a tranny filter and flush at 100k. Will never do that again lol. I thought maybe they put in the wrong filter, so changed it myself and it was fine for a while. Mine is also when it's hot. I'm in New Braunfels, Tx so that's a majority of the time. Mine would start and run fine, but if I stopped for gas and tried to drive, it would be stuck in 2nd. (I'm guessing) So the last few years, I just preplan my stops. I'll get gas at a big grocery store, limp to a parking spot, and go shop for 30 mins or so. Come back and the truck is fine. It would also happen less commonly, while driving. Tranny temp light would come on and I could feel a difference in power immediately. Only thing to fix it was pulling over and letting it rest for a while. The few colder months, no problems. Weekly 3 hour drives during hunting season, no problems even stopping for gas. So I finally took my truck to a highly regarded mechanic in town. Changed solenoid and valve body. Truck wouldn't connect to the computer at all, no codes, started but ran ragged. He put the old VB back in and replaced the computer. Was able to connect and engine was back under control. Trans problem was back. So switched out the old VB for the new one again. Thought we struck gold, it was a combo of problems. Truck ran fine for 2 weeks. Now it's back to it's old tricks. Now there's no trans temp light, just trans. It stutters almost all the time between 40 and 55 mph and the trans light flashes. If I punch it, it will get out of the stutter, but rev high and accelerate as normal. People probably think I'm trying to race or show off lol... not the case. Just trying to get where I'm going. I've been researching for years and this is by far the best board on the topic. Disconnecting the battery works for a day or two sometimes. I'm tempted to put a switch on my battery and run it to the dash. Shut it off when I stop, and flip it on before I start lol.

I'm not sure, but I have noticed that if I start the engine immediately after putting the key in the ignition the CEL doesn't come on and it doesn't start in limp mode. I read about someone else doing that somewhere and it seems to consistently work for me, I haven't had the CEL come on once since I started doing this; something about starting the engine before the computer can detect and register an error... I'd still like to get to the bottom of this and figure out what's really going on, but in the meantime this bypass trick has allowed me to focus on other things. Anyone else having any luck?

It appears that a class action suit is the way to go to get Dodge to own their problem! I'm totally in!!!

BEEN OVER A YEAR SINCE USED PCM REPRORAM, WORKING GREAT

I had the same stubborn problem with my 2006 Mitsubishi Raider w/4.7 (essentially a dodge dakota with mitsubishi stickers, as my mechanic likes to say). Transmission would go into limp mode after a hot restart. This only happened in the warm months. Over the winter, there was never a problem. Transmission flush, engine fan clutch, misc. relay diagnosis work, battery swap (perhaps a few other items I don't remember) didn't solve the problem. I had suspected that perhaps the PCM was going bad due to the number of codes I would get at the hot restart check engine light (usually about a dozen or more codes). Thrown in with the usual p07xx codes were a number of U codes indicating PCM memory problems. In any case, my reasoning was always that something like a PCM problem *should* happen at any temperature but more and more I was convinced that heat caused the PCM to malfunction. So, my most recent purchase was a reman'd PCM from Flagship1. It had a different flash update than the one I replaced so maybe that resolved some of the issues (old pcm was an "AG" model, new one was "AI"). Perhaps that made a difference. Anyways, its been over a month in icky hot weather and no issues so far.

Guy the only thing you have to do is put a relay we a fuse 20amp end give the transmission direct voltage found the cable the give voltage to the pcm connector 4 is very easy you never have that problem again

Started Having the same issue, with my 2006 dodge dakota with about 34k miles. Did any of you resolve it?

I have an 06' 3.7L that has just started the high revving (failure to shift) and driving in limp mode. I noticed it did this on a very hot day here so maybe there is a connection to what other people are saying. I'm getting codes p0755 and p0700 like some others have, solenoid b in my case. I went out and bought some new tranny oil and filter, but not the solenoid. After reading this thread I don't think I will as this "fix" didn't seem to actually help anyone. It seems that maybe user Lauren might have got it fixed in relation to a vacuum hose, but she never got back to anyone here about which one. I'll try the quick turn key thing. I did notice the truck ran fine after parking it for a bit. Well it was either after parking it for a bit, or fooling around with the shifter. See I had replaced the little shift cable bushing (holds the shift cable on the little hold point under the driver's side, just in front of the trans case). It helped tighten up the shift lever too, but recently I noticed it's getting sloppy again. When I shift into drive etc it's just loser or something. Anyway, maybe it's related to the whole shift thing because when I'm super careful with the shifting it seems to drive fine. Could just be coincidence of course.. Either way I'll let you guys know if anything works. I'm going to check the shift cable bushing again, and it's connectors (I think there's a sensor where the end of the cable inserts), and try to see if there's a vacuum leak back there, though as one other user said, it's a jungle.

@Guru9HD5ZL could you explain what you're saying here better?

Update: mine has nothing to do with the weather. It was 6 C (42 F) and still did it. I cleaned out harnesses with CLR, added dielectric grease, pulled all the sensors I could off the tranny body and made sure contacts were all good. Still does it. Kind of stumped. Maybe I should just go ahead and replace solenoid b? Hmmm

Update 2: Went ahead and bought an ECM from Flagship 1. I'll let you know if this works, although I'm also going to replace the input/output sensors too (a relatively cheap fix). If this doesn't work I'll have to attack the solenoid. Still cheaper than buying a new truck imo.

anyone having any luck solving this?