my Lincoln town car is slow to accelerate

FPA
80

Asked by FPA Mar 02, 2013 at 08:20 AM about the 1999 Lincoln Town Car Signature

Question type: General

Good morning,

I've had the car for a few weeks and have noticed that the acceleration from start to 30mph is
quite good, but that I almost have to floor it to reach 50mph: the engine revs, but it feels like the
transmission is slipping. The transmission fluid level is good.The car clocked 161.000 miles.

Thank you

14 Answers

judge_roy
Not Active

sounds like one or more emissions devices is not all that. suspect the EGR, but not only will it get plugged with carbon and become more-or-less inoperative, the instructions to this unit should not be bogus. See if you can pull the trouble codes up, the guy at your auto parts store should be able to help you for free on this...with the hopes of selling you replacement parts...see if you can get a printout from this supplier, then we can go down the list...

2 out of 2 people think this is helpful.
Steven Spicer
135

Well I have a 1994 town car and it did the same thing so I went parts store and got a fuel filter now car runs like new so my 1998 town changing her filter to if I runs better

1 out of 1 people think this is helpful.
Steven Spicer
135

I was so surprised that worked every one said massflow the injeters but I glad only twelve dollar filter

4 out of 4 people think this is helpful.
Steven Spicer
135

Oh I have three town cars 1993,1994,1998 so all kinds of problems I have had my cars have to run good they are limousines

2 out of 2 people think this is helpful.
Steven Spicer
135

My 1998 what it done just sitting was putting new fuses in now my key won,t start car have not found problem yet it has 273000,00 on it They replaced motor with 2000 wt '

1 out of 1 people think this is helpful.
judge_roy
Not Active

,,,impressive!

FPA
80

Thank you Bob and Steven ! Did not have time to answer earlier. The EGR sounds like it could be the cause of the lack of torque. Especially since the idling sounds irregular, with some unwanted variations in revs (the engine tends to accelerate by itself when idling). Since it's a brand new car ;-), it makes sense, parts have to be replaced. "Check engine soon" on the dashbord that comes and goes, but emissions and oil consumption look normal (had the car checked when I bought it a few weeks ago). The car belonged to an elder man who switched to a brand new Lincoln. He probably only drove the car in town and never "gunned" it. Hence the horrible mileage when I got it, 13mpg in town on the first refueling. I did some highway and now I clock something like 15.5mpg in town. I'll try to get a reading of the onboard computer, but here, in the neighborhood of NY , mechanics tend to charge 100$ just to say "hello" and there are no autoparts shops as one can find in "normal" areas. Anyway, since I love the car (I used to live in France where vehicles are more like Barbie toys) and am so proud of driving a genuine American product, I have no choice, I'll invest in it ;-) Thanks to both of you, I'll keep you posted as soon as I fix the problem. Franck

1 out of 1 people think this is helpful.
FPA
80

Just found the possible answer while browsing on the net: defective MAF (mass air flow sensor): "A failing mass airflow sensor can cause the Check Engine Light to come on and engine starting/running problems. If the mass airflow sensor (MAF) is not functioning correctly, the vehicle may lack power when accelerating or going up hills." Sounds like the exact symptoms. I guess that it might induce the engine to run too lean at times hence the lack of torque. Got to fix that, it can't be good for pistons heads, valves and spark plugs (overeating). I'll keep you posted Franck

1 out of 1 people think this is helpful.
judge_roy
Not Active

yes...as I stated there are a number of devices that can cause a "check engine" and subsequent lack of performance...Franck is onto something, but the MAF takes the readings at the front of the cycle MAP checks afterwards and EGR is the thing that does the work of pipin' exhaust on de-cel~...so any of these devices might be responsible, the O2 sensor will cause a 'too rich' condition if not doin' it's job properly causing the Catalytic converter to stop functioning and will make with the black smoke~ drive out to the 'burbs, my man- Steven---away from the hulllaballlo of the big city, then go to a NAPA store where they will be happy to look at your codes and sell the needed parts to you.

1 out of 1 people think this is helpful.
judge_roy
Not Active

http://www.whitepages.com/store-locator/NY/New-York/NAPA-Auto-Parts

FPA
80

Thank you Bob. There's a NAPA 2 miles away from home, that's great news ! Thank you

1 out of 1 people think this is helpful.
FPA
80

Judge, Steven, sorry for the lack of news. Here's what I did that seems to have fixed the problem so far. Not an add, I give you my word. I treated the engine with microlon (what one calls a "snake oil"), a product I've been aware of for 20 years. Not available in France (of course..), waited for an opportunity. Results: -7% in consumption, no downshifts when it was the case, smoother engine. On top of it, I finally understood how to drive it: the car seriously pushes at max torque (makes sense), which, if I'm not mistaken, sits at about 3500 revs ? I'm used to 4Cyl., more linear it seems. Anyway, I also pushed it a few times, the car belonged to an old man, the engine most certainly was "dirty" ;-). The treatment works in to phases: cleaning, and treating. I was concerned with the cleaning stage: you basically overfill with some kind of very light petroleum smelling liquid (one quart). evaporates after an hour. The other stuff (a few oz) looks like regular oil. Takes about 1000 miles to complete the treatment (some kind of zinc based chemical, probably vitrifies ). So far 500 miles, I'll keep you posted. The third par of the treatment, I did not dare: you pour a bottle of a whatiamaycallit liquid in the fuel tank filled to a quarter, same type of resin as the other stuff, and have to drive at least 2 hours or 100 miles (refueling mandatory ;-), lest the resin solidifies in the system. I don't really see the point, as only the upper part of the cylinder (where the piston doesn't go), the injection pump and perhaps the valves "seal" will be treated, and considering the risk of f...g up the injectors, I preferred to pass. I'm not really sure the stuff works: consumption is better, but temperature is higher, less pressure-oxygen, less fuel injected. Power is far better (feels like 15-20hp more), I probably cleaned the engine by revving it a few times (no "service engine soon" anymore). We shall see. Franck

1 out of 1 people think this is helpful.
FPA
80

here it is

1 out of 1 people think this is helpful.
FPA
80

engine

3 out of 3 people think this is helpful.

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