93 lincolon t.c. won't start
My T.C was running 0m 12/27. after car sat overnight it wont't start plenty of
battery power(bright head lights.) when I turn key nothing happens. (I live in New
England and we had a Snown Storm with cold temps. I tried starting car in netural
then park several times still wont turn over.
check for spark. could be a sensor.
Its probably the battery. Being as cold as it has been in the NE your battery will need more amps to turn the engine over. A jump should do it, but put a Freeze Plug Heater Core in your engine. You simply plug it in overnight and let it keep your engine warm on those freezing nights.
Steve and Jeff, your both idiots. It's NOT turning over, how could you check for spark?! Duh And plugging a heater on the motor warms THE M O T O R, not the battery!?!?!?!? How about....could it be the starter solenoid. That's a little more intelligent answer. Try banging on the starter as you try to crank the car over. Just make sure it has full battery power while doing it.
Cranking and turning over (starting) are two different things. now go put your head back on the desk or stop posting anonymously.
Cranking and turning over ARE the the same thing. Starting means.......... it starts... turn (tûrn) v. turned, turn·ing, turns v.tr. 1. To cause to move around an axis or center; cause to rotate or revolve.v. cranked, crank·ing, cranks v.tr. 1. a. To attempt to start or operate (an engine, for example) by or as if by turning a handle. Won't 'turn over' means it won't rotate! THUS no way to check spark! He says when he turns the key 'NOTHING happens...still won't turn over'. Oh, before I put my head back on my desk, what is this 'sensor' you speak of called??
its called a crankshaft position sensor Mirriam, and in automotive terminology turning over is cranking with the presence of fuel and spark (starting). google the common problem of "engine cranks but won't turn over"
First, stop being so demeaning. You are not as smart as you think. Remember, the colder it is outside the less power the battery will produce. That is why Cold Cranking Amps will be higher, you need more energy to do the same work. Second, the guy says "nothing happens", if it was the solenoid, it would click on and off as the battery will have enough power to turn it over then, if the solenoid is bad, click again because it needs more power and shuts it off, then click on again. And repeat this clicking sound until you release the key from 'Start' position. And, Third, Town Cars have ENGINES in them not MOTORS. I dont need to go Mirriam Webster on you and show that ENGINES run on fuel (Air and Gas) and MOTORS run on electricity. Remember? So before you go Postal on two guys who just respond to what little info is given, remember this "It is better to be quite and let people think you're a moron than to open your mouth and remove all doubt."
You tell him Steve.
Steve is a bone head with enough knowledge to be dangerous! There is so many errors to address it isn't worth the time but I will address just one for Steve. Generally speaking, 'Cold Cranking Amps' is related to a batteries ability to provide a specified current before terminal voltage drops to a minimum for a specified amount of time. In a good battery the more plate area it contains the higher the cranking Amps, which includes cold cranking Amps measured at freezing 32 deg F (0 deg C.) and 0 deg. F. (-17.8 deg. C.). SAE specifications. As the temp drops so does the output. I'm not going into specific gravity and liquids characteristics. No matter the temp, the battery (if sound and not discharged) will provide full advertised amperage for the first few seconds! On this site I see bone heads defending idiots that had no business answering such a poorly educated and worded question. Nope! I'm not a site GURU, I'm an expert who was also looking for an answer but don't have access to a 93 TC electrical diagram for resolution! This looks to be the wrong venue for me but curiosity led me to read a few questions and answers.