Power Locks Fail 1994 Explorer

I would try replacing the fuse just to be sure so you dont have to spend to much if the fuses dont work i would have someone look at unless you know anything about electric wiring if you do then i would take the panel off and look at the wires on the inside of the door.

Fuses replaced and still not working. Are you speaking of the wires on inside door panel on the drivers side? Also if the door lock security module is bad does this make all the locks STOP working?

Yes one could be burnt, ripped, grounded out, or could have got wet yes driver side inside the door panel take the panel off get a bright flash light and go down the wire harness and yes that would be why if yours is bad...

Thank you! Since all 4 don't work, you think its in the wiring somewhere correct? If anyone else has any more thoughts or ideas...all are much appreciated. We will keep trying everything!

Is the problem with the remote, solely? If one particular door has problem unlocking with the switch on the inside do this. Use the switch and move it from lock to unlock while observing the button near the window. Does wiggle? Can you hear the mechanical mechanism attempting to move the rod to the unlock position. If yes, try a simple fix by flooding the mock mechanism on the side of the door with WD 40. Twenty year old cars get loaded with crud and lubricants dry. You also have to check the electrical connections with a multi meter. Power is supplied to the drivers side arm rest panel and branches from there.

No it is not just remote. I can not get locks to work by power at all. When I try from inside the suv manually...nothing. No noise at all. I have tried each one separately. They all (4) stopped working 7 days ago at the same time! I have to use my key to get in each day and have to lock manually by pushing lock (s) down. Power windows work as well as the power mirrors.

I will assume you checked the fuses and they are good. Now, one has to remove the switch/window cluster positioned on the driver's side arm rest. They can usually be pried up using a screw driver but be careful, you can break the tabs on them, especially when they get brittle from age. The windows work so we know 12 volts is being supplied to the cluster. The problem is either in the lock switch itself or the line carrying the voltage to the lock switch is damaged. Someone with just a little know how can easily check for current at the switch. If present they can jump the switch and the windows should work. This is not a difficult fix.

If, when they jump the switch for the lock on the driver's side, the arm rest window/lock work, then simply clean the connection points on the harness and the corresponding connection point on the switches to make sure corrosion is not the problem. If this does not work, replace the arm rest switching mechanism.

Thank you for all the info! We will try that next! I will give an update once we try all you have suggested. Thanks to everyone for the great input! Much appreciated!!