Occasional no start. Always turns over fine. Also now idle drops too low and sometimes stalls.
replace fuel filter,run a can of seafome fuel injector cleaner in a tank of gas,clean IAC & EGR with a can of carb cleaner.that should fix it right up.
Thanks papa. Thought it was a distributor problem but after trying to used ones with no change was stumped. Your help is greatly appreciated!
hope it works out.
I found the vacuum line for the idle control valve was hard and cracked. Idle problem solved. Fuel filter change and seafoam seems to have eliminated occasional no start. Thanks again!
glad you found the problem.just 1 more thing,unhook battery for 10 min rehook,the cracked vac line was sending a false signal to computer,this will clear it out.
Thanks again! I'll do that. :)
It idles perfectly now but again it had a random no start. I have yet to clean the EGR valve and don't know if it would help the starting issue. If so do I remove it and do I also spray any carb cleaner in the vacuum passages as well? Any more input on this is greatly appreciated. Thanks.
yes spray all holes in it,as for the no start,the crank sensor could be bad,or the dis modugal,most are the gray box on the top of ac.crank sensor is at harmonic ballancer.
Thanks once again, papa. The random no start is the only issue. It's like chasing a ghost. I have tried two used distributors. Fuel filter, fuel pressure regulator and it seems that mechanics have a hard time pinpointing anything. I am torn. When it starts it runs so fine. I am ready to donate it. Can it be push started during this condition? Bad injector. Still faulty distributor? Do I try a used crank sensor. I am getting cash fatigue.
when it stalls spray some carb cleaner in throttle body,should start,yes u can use a used crank sensor.what happends with it is whenits cold it starts fine,after driveing it gets hot wont start until it cools down.you say u used 2 used fuel filters,I am guessing they came from a salvage yard,if so they bad,no telling how long the cars they came off of have been setting,way to tell is when you unscrew the in line bolt the gas looks like mud,or a brown color.
I am only dealing with the random no start. It doesn't stall since fixing the vacuum to the idle control. I put in a new fuel filter. I tried 2 used distributors. Maybe they were both defective. I will try a crank sensor. Thanks again for your responses papa.
We are having the SAME problem - Have you found a solution yet?
I haven't. It might still be the dist. as the 2 I replaced mine with were both used. I may try a crank sensor. Even Ford isn't sure.
"Sounds like a very typical problem that the 2nd gen distributor deals with. The igniter goes out and causes the issue you are explaining. You can either replace the distributor with a new one or a use one or you can bypass the igniter by modifying the distributor and adding an external ignition system. (like a MSD unit)" I got this answer from a different Probe site - Does it sound like anything anyone else has mentioned? It's the randomness that is so frustrating. My daughter lives by herself in Denver. I don't like the idea of this happening late at night so am very motivated to find the problem. Thanks for your replies.
Posted on 10/21/2001 at 02:10:49 I have been through hell with my 1997 probe not starting every now and then. I've taken it to several dealerships over a 2yr period and it was a waste of my time. They did change my distributor and spark plugs which did not help at all. After taking ford to court and winning some money for this damm car I figured out the problem. Well I didn't but my boyfriend introduced me to the guy who was a specialist for the probes at ford. He told me that the problem of probes not starting is a major problem ford almost recalled the 96-97 probes because of it. Now my problem was I had a short in one of my distributor wires. My car wouldn't start one day again and the guy told me to jiggle the distributor wires sure enought it started. How happy I was to have found the problem, how mad I was that noboday at the dealership could figure it out especially if it is such a common problem. Well I hope this helps!! Here is another ans I found on another site. It looks like an older post, but the problem sounds the same. I will have my daughter try this the next time it happens.
Thanks! The car runs so well I hate to dump it.
I am so very sorry I did not know you people before now. I am the Master of the Ford Probe Gt, especially 1994 1995. I never had the 3.0 L. Email firstname.lastname@example.org
93 Ford probe gtv62.5 bypassed fuel cutoff ran fine now it starts up for awhile then stalls when I take the three wires apart for the fuel cutoff switch the dash board light for fuelcut off goes off when I connect them the light comes on starts up for awhile then stalls help please
New fuel filter new fuel pump installed
So sorry to take so long to reply. I never messed with that part on the vehicle. I never had to. I can't see if the circuit is bridged together it should work. That dash light, sometimes it see it sometimes I forget about it can show. Never had restrictions in fuel flow. What are you stalling for, is it fuel or spark. Let me know. I will go look up a schematic on the fuel cut of switch. Talk soon. Be patient, no anxiety here now. Ok.
this may help someone but on most of the v6 motors i have ran into. replacing Both of the thermostate on the passenger side of the motor with help a no start when warm issue also will cause the fan to kick on when it is suppose to and will fix the no fuel pressure issue on these cars. a lot of fords even diesel engines while have a no start issue when these thermostates get bad and will cause all of these issues. Also check your start plug wires even if new with a multimeter from end to end to make sure they all have a good reading if not when the car is warm it can cause a lopping in rpm and die issue at idle or when trying to take off at stop or coming to a stop. also add more ground wires and clean them as them or replace them. adding more ground wires helps u get better gas mileage and gets rid of the load on a system. remember that the energy that isnt expelling from a circuit can find the closest place to ground if u have week ground and can cause parts to go out faster or can cause false reading in the system if the one part is carrying all the load of the other sensors. hope this gives someone some help in pin pointing a problem they may have.
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