my 2000 trans am wont turn over when i try to start it the securety system goes off but the rest of the car has full power
I HAVE A 200 RAM AIR TRANS AM WITH 60,00 MILES AND IVE LET THE CAR SIT BEFORE FOR 2 YEAR AND I JUMP STARTED IT AND IT FIRED RIGHT UP. BUT I LOST THEY KEYS A FEW MONTHS AGO AND HADE ONE MADE AND EVERYTHING WAS FINE FOR A FEW MONTHS WITH THE NEW KEY UNTIL THE TRANS BLEW AND IT SAT FOR 2 MONTHS AND I CHARGER THE BATERY TO START IT BECAUSE IT WAS DEAD AND KNOW IT WONT TURN OVER. THE SECURETY LIGHT FLASHES AND THE ALARM GOES OFF WHEN YOU TRY AND START IT I HAD A NOTHER NEW KEY MADE FROM GM AND IT STILL DOES THE SAME THING. I WAS TOLD THAT THE IGNITION MODULE MIGHT HAVE TO BE RESET OR THE RELAY SWITCH RESET OR POSSIBLY A PROBLEM WITH THE PASS CODE SYSTEM. GM TOLD ME TO TURN THE KEY TO THE ON POSITION FOR TEN SECONDS THEN TURN IT BACK AND DO THE SAME THING ONE MORE TIME THEN SEE IF IT STARTS BECAUSE ITS SUPPOSE TO DO SOMTHING WITH THE CODES. BUT THEY ALSO SAID THAT IF THAT DONT WORK THAT I SHOULD TRY A 30 MIN RESET PUTING THE KEY TO THE ON POSITION FOR 10 SECONDS AND TURNING IT OF AND REPEAT IT FOR 30 MINUTES AND THAT WILL RESET EVERYTHING BUT THATS ALOT ON WORK AND IF IT DIDNT WORK DOING A FEW TIMES I CANT SEE IT WORKING AFTER 30 MINUTES. IVE OWNED A 1993 TRANS AM A 1999 TRANS AM A 2000 CAMERO THAT I DID EVERY ADD ON YOU COULD BUY INCLUDING THE EXAUST WITH EMISION READY HEADERS INTO 3 INCH DUAL STAINLESS PIPES TO 2 HIGH FLOW CATS THEN 3 INCH DUAL INTO A 3 INCH DUAL INLET FLOWMASTER WITH DUAL 3 INCH OUTLETS. THAT CAR WAS A SCREAMER THEIR WASNT A SINGLE NEW CORVETTE THAT COULD KEEP UP WITH ME I WAS ATLEAST 5 TO6 CAR LENGTHS FASTER BUT AFTER I BLEW 3 TRANSMITIONS THE LAST ONE CHEVY MESSED UP MY ESN AND I HAD TO TAKE A EMISION TEST AND THE ONLY WAY I COULD PASS WAS THEM JUST PLUGING THEIR MACHINE INTO THE ESN TO READ THE COMPUTER AND I DIDNT KNOW IT WAST WORKING WHEN IT TOOK IT AND THEY HAD TO TEST IT OLD SCHOOL AND AFTER SHAKEING THE BUILDING CAUSE IT WAS SO LOUD I FAILED SO BAD AND THE ONLY WAY TO PASS WAS TO PUT THE STOCK EXAUSE BACK ON AND THEY WERE SUSPENDING MY PLATES AND LICENSE CAUSE I NEVER FIXED IT. BUT WITH ALL THE COMPUTER CHANGES AND FUEL AND AIR ADD ONS I NEVER ONCE HAD A ELECTRICAL PROBLEM WITH THAT CAR WITH ALL THAT DONE. I HAD TO TRADE IT IN SO I GOT MY 2000 RAM AIR TRANS AM ALMOST BRAND NEW A YEAR OLD WITH 8,000 MILES AND AT FIRST I LEFT IT COMPLETLY STOCK THEN I PUT A $8000.00 DOLLAR STEREO SYSTEM IN IT BUT IT HAS A 2 FARRED CAPASITOR SO BOTH AMPLIFIERS RUN OFF THAT ITS JUST LIKE HAVING A BATTERY THAT RECHARGES ITSELF AND NEVER DIES. SO THE STEREO IS POWERED ON ITS OWN NOT OFF THE ALTERNATOR OR CAR BATTERY SO THAT COULDNT HAVE CAUSE A SINGLE ELECTRICAL PROBLEM. AFTER THAT CAUSE ALL THE STERIO EQUIPMENT ADDED 400 POUNDS TO THE BACK END. I COULD ONLY PUT 2 PEOPLE IN THE CAR OR IT WOULD BOTTOM OUT BUT I GOT BETTER TRACTION. SO I WAS MAD CAUSE I COULDNT LAY A PATCH 3 TO 4 HOUSES LONG DOWN THE STREET SO I HAD A 373 RING AN PINION IT AND THE ONLY THING I HAD REPROGRAMED WAS THE SPEEDOMETOR BUT I WAS SUPOSE TO HAVE THE SHIFT POINTS REPROGRAMED CAUSE THE GEAR MADE THE TRANS SHIFT FROM 1ST TO 2ND GEAR AT 20 MPH AT RED LINE BEFORE THE REV LIMITOR HIT. WHEN IT WAS STOCK IT SHIFTED FROM 1ST TO 2ND GEAD AT ABOUT 38 MPH WHEN I SLAM IT INTO LOW ONE AT 10 MPH AND KICK THE CAR OUT SIDEWAYS AND CHIRP THE TIRES IN SECOND GEAR. BUT WITH THE 373 WITHOUT THE SHIFT POINTS CHANGED THE CAR SMOKE THE TIRE ALL THE WAY THOUGH 1ST AND 2ND GEAR AND SCHIPS IN 3RD GEAR WITH A AUTOMATIC TRANSMITION I FINALLY BLEW THE TRANS AND HAD IT REBUILD 6 MONTHS AGO BUT I WORE OUT THE TRANS CASE FOR DRIVING IT AROUND WITHOUT CHANGING THE SHIFT POINTS SO IT BLEW RIGHT AWAY IT STILL HAS 1ST AND 2ND GEAR BUT NOW I CANT GET IT TO START TO DROP IT OFF AT THE TRANS SHOP. THEY GOT ME A NEW TRANS CASE AND ITS COVERED ON WARRENTY FOR ONLY A FEW MORE MONTHS. I DID GO THROUGH 3 REAR ENDS BEFORE 48,000 MILES AND IM FRIENDS WITH A FEW CAR DEALER OWNERS SO GM TRIED TO VOID THE WARRENTY ON THE REAR END AFTER IT BLEW THE FIRST TIME THEY PUT A CRATE REAR END BRAND NEW I PUT A 1000 MILES ONIT AND HAVE A SPEED SHOP INSTALL THE GEAR I PUT THE BEST ONE THEY MADE SO IT WOULD BE QUIT AND BROKE IT IN RIGHT SO EVERYTHING WAS NEW AND 6 MONTHS LATER IT STARTED HUMMING AFTERT 30 MPH THEY DIDNT SHIM THE RING AND PINION RIGHT. SO MY FREIND THAT OWNED THE PONTIAC DEALER COVERED IT AGAINST GM TELLING THEM TO VOID IT FROM THE GEAR I PUT IN AND THEY EVEN TOOK OUT THE STOCK ONE AT PONTIAC AND THE RING AND PINION WAS IN PERFECT SHAPE SO THEY PUT IT IN THE BRAND NEW REAR END AT THE DEALER AND GAVE ME A BUCKET WITH THE STOCK RING AND PINION AND THE BEARING. THEN I BLEW THE BOTTOM END ON THE ENGINE 500 MILES BEFORE THE WARRENTY RAN OUT AT 47,500 MILES AND ENGINE AND PONTIAC PUT A BRAND NEW CRATE ENGIINE IT CAUSE THEY KNEW ME AND MADE SURE EVERYTHING WAS FIXED HOW IT SHOULD BE LIKE IT NEVER BROKE AND THIS WAS BACK IN 2004 AND I ONLY HAVE 60,000 MILES ON IT 9 YEARS LATER AND I BABY IT JUST PUT A FEW HUNDRED MILES A YEAR ON IT TO MAKE SURE THE CAR STAYS RUNNING RIGHT THINGS GO BAD WHEN YOU JUST LET THEM SIT FOR YEARS AND I HAVENT HAD A SINGLE PROBLEM SINCE UNTIL I LOST THE KEY AND GOT A NEW ONE IT WORKED FINE FOR A MONTH THEN I BLEW THE TRANS AND IT SAT A FEW MONTHS THEN IT WONT TURN OVER NOW AFTER THE BATERY DIED BUT I CHARGED IT AND ITS FINE BESIDES THE SECURETY SYSTEM IS GOING OFF WHEN I TRY TO TURN IT OVER AND I JUST HAD A NEW KEY MADE JUST INCASE AT GM AND STILL DOENT WORK. I DONT WANT TO TOW IT TO THE DEALER AND PAY OUT OF MY ASS. BUT IM LOST IVE HADE EVERY YEAR THEY MADE THE IROC Z AND ALL THE NEWER ONES AND I KNOW ALOT ABOUT GM AND CAMEROS AND TRANS AMS BUT I NEVER ONCE HAD A SINGLE PROBLEM WITH THE SECURETY SYSTEM. IT HAS TO BE SOMTHING STUPID AND SIMPLE. I APPOLOGIGE FOR MY LONG DESCRIPTION I JUST WANT TO LET EVERYONE KNOW IM NOT JUST SOME IDIOT THAT DOESNT KNOW CRAP ABOUT CARS I KNOW ENOUGH TO PUT ALL THE HIGH PERFORMANCE PARTS ON BY MY SELF AND THATS HARD WHEN MOST OF THE ENGINE IS UNDER THE DASHBOARD BECAUSE THE FACTORY PUTS THE ENGINE IT FROM UNDERNEATH CAR. SO IF ANYONE HAS THE PATIANCE TO READ MY LONG MESSAGE AND HAS ANY IDEA WHAT THE PROBLEM IS AND HOW TO FIX IT I KNOW IT COULD BE A FEW THINGS. THAK YOU FOR ANYONE THAT CAN HELP ME.
The key will have to be reprogrammed at the car, the chip is set to factory defaults, They will have to physically program it onsite in vehicle. I had the same problem after alternator was changed @ dealers yesterday with '05.
Just want to correct you about your Caps on your stereo. Those are not supplying the amp(s) with power separately from the alternator and battery that is in the car. They are somewhat like a battery BUT they are still being supplied their power from the alternator. And if the car is turned off then they gain their power from the battery. They draw as much power as the amp does at any given time. They don't store long term power. Which means if you unhooked them from their power source(i.e. battery/alternator) then they would only play a couple notes of music at best before they would stop. 1 Farad cap will supply the power for approximately a 1000 watt amp. But this power is only for instant usage. Which means, You install a capacitor on your power system because they charge super fast or rather nearly instantly and they can discharge the same which gives your amplifier the much needed power without voltage drops that you will experience with an ONLY Battery/Alternator set up. Again, The caps do not store any long term power at all. They are nothing like a battery in that sense. They hold enough juice to supply the amp its peak input at an advanced rate. Where a battery can only discharge its power at a slow rate and also charge at only a slow rate thus the amp suffers when it needs the peak power instantly (such as when a strong bass note hits). I doubt this has anything to do with your problems your having but do understand the actual use of a capacitor and its physics. Knowing how it works and what it actually does and is capable of can help later on down the line when designing or troubleshooting any power issues with your system.
I have a 2000 firebird no crank I put new switch and key not the problem I notice when I put the key or open the door my door chime don't come on(this is the fix I removed the black panel under passage side and moved the wires and the chime started to work and now it works fine hope this helps someone
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