CAR IS JERKING
MY car started jerking when i started it and while i was driving it when i push the gas it would not jerk as bad but it seemed like it did not want to pick up speed and when i stop it acts like it wants to die. HELP!! I have already had the timimg belt changed
have you had the timing checked?...maybe check to see if there is a vacuume leak some where...or maybe a fuel delivery problem, a faulty injector, a plugged fuel filter...or a plugged convertor... hope this helps a bit!
Did you ever figure out what was wrong with your car?? Mine is doing the same thing! I tried new engine coils, spark plugs, mass air flow sensor and no luck yet! Let me know what you have tried... Sierra
I replaced my crankshaft sensor on min and that seemed to do the trick. Is your Check engine light on?
My Nissan Sentra 1.8 S started to feel like it swallowed a Watermelon. Very sluggish to drive and hard to start. This car has 82,000 miles on it and has been well maintained. Found out that there is a service campaign on the Fuel Pump. The new kit includes a fuel pump and a fuel regulator and my mechanic thought this might also take care of the starting problem. $ 498 dollars later, my car is jerking all over the place...usually at high speed. I am a single gal with two kids and me and my son are fighting an illness that insurance won't cover. WE DID NOT NEED THIS. I thought Nissan made reliable cars but just internet surfing and looking at review after review by consumers, I think I bought a lemon.
same problems....check engine light came on and got codes po420 abd po455 ....probable causes = faulty fuel cap, purge system leak, faulty canister vent control valve, faulty purge control valve, large vacuum leak, fuel system fault, ignition system fault, failed bank 1 catalytic converter....this car has been checked out by 2 auto mechanics...... nothing came up on at least two diagnostic runs.... fuel system cleaned, new fuel pump and fuel regulator installed, new spark plugs, and no leaks detected..... 2 weeks after work done I get the service engine light on with those codes......WHAT'S UP ???????
Same issues as above, 80k miles. Got codes for multiple misfires, car is jerking at high speeds and makes a glugging noise while idling. We thought that this was caused by the engine running lean (some cat converter codes noted above). replaced the o2 sensors, but the issue persisted. One day the car doesn't start. I took it to a reliable mechanic who noticed two problems. The ignition coil had to be replaced as well as the crank sensors. The car starts now...but still jerks or bucks when idling and at high speeds. Who would have though these problems would be so pervasive in Nissans?
As a mechanic and as a Sentra owner who has modified nearly every aspect of his own car, I would suggest trying a couple things if you have not yet done so - I can't guarantee that any of these will resolve your issue, but unfortunately it is extremely difficult to troubleshoot/diagnose a vehicle without experiencing the issue firsthand: 1. Try re-grounding the MAF (Mass Airflow Sensor). Even the slightest resistance in the ground wire of the MAF will cause it to send the wrong information to the ECU regarding how much air is being drawn into the motor, which will throw off the critical 14.7 to 1 air-to-fuel ratio, an issue which can manifest itself in a manner consistent with your description, and is also fairly common in Nissan motors. 2. Try replacing your spark plug wires. This is another part that is extremely sensitive to any increase in resistance, as extremely high voltage is required for the current to arc from one of your spark plug's electrodes to the other. It is also a part that is easily deteriorated by the heating and cooling cycles found within your engine compartment. Although your spark plug wires may look alright, tiny cracks in their insulation and/or breaks in the indvidual conductors found within can lead to inconsistent or weak spark, an issue which can also manifest itself in a manner consistent with your description, and prevalent among many compact cars, especially front-engine, front-wheel-drive vehicles such as yours. 3. This might sound stupid, but check that both your front tires are the same size, and that one is not considerably more worn than the other. This shouldn't be too hard for you to check on your own, just look at the sidewall of both tires and make sure that they both have the same set of numbers printed on the side, such as "195/55R16". If you have two different size tires on the front wheels, the smaller of the two tires will have to make more rotations in order to go the same distance as the larger tire, which in turn means that one axle will try and rotate more quickly than the other. Suffice it to say that this is not a circumstance that your differential or your transmission enjoy, and can also manifest itself in a manner consisten with your description. Anyways, I hope this information helps you out.
Just want to add a footnote to my last post: My car ended up doing the same thing just the other day, and after deciding that it wasn't realistically driveable until I resolved the issue, I pulled over, popped the hood, and went through the motor compartment, only to find my MAF ground wire was loose. I tightened it back up, and the issue went away. DEFINITELY check the MAF sensor ground wire, or have someone who knows Nissans very well such as myself check it. I've found that this is exactly the sort of thing that mechanics who do not own or specialize in Nissans tend to misdiagnose.
Sounds like fouled plugs, or a bad coil. Not sure what kind of ignition that 1.8 has though, but I'd assume it's COP.
I have an 05 Sentra and its starting to jerk while im sitting at the stop light and while im driving. I just had a tune up on my car less than two weeks ago and the mechanics didn't experience none of the jerking. Can anyone help me figure this out. I dont wanna spend a bunch of money on random stuff thats not gonna help resolve the issue. I've already had head gasket work and my fuel kit replaced in the car a couple years back. If anyone has any ideas please help.
Is your Check Engine light on? When you say it's "starting to jerk" while you're at stoplights, do you mean that the vehicle physically moves forward in small increments, or that the steering wheel is shaking, perhaps not constantly, but regularly enough to notice? When you say that it's jerking while driving, do you mean that it feels like a momentary loss of power, then power returns, and quickly repeats this power-loss-then-surge pattern, or is it more that it begins with a surge, then returns to normal, and repeats, or am I completely misunderstanding? Either way, the more specific and descriptive you can be as you explain what the car is doing, the better, and more likely I will be to be able to help.
The check engine light did not come on while i was sitting still. The car just started jerking as if it wanted to shut off while i was sitting still. More like the care was trembling instead of jerking. The car didn't move foward or anything as I had my foot on the brake. As for when i was driving down the interstate, the care was jerking forward as it seemed like a temporary loss of power or gas flow. At that point the check engine light would come on and off each time the car would jerk. I just had a tune up, (spark plugs changed and new belts), i also had the idol control system checked and they a did a relearn system on that because my cars rpm's were too high. That did solve the jerking/trembling problem but its not as bad. Haven't seen the check engine light come on since.
Sounds very much like you're experiencing multiple-misfire events - double check ignition timing, plug gap, and if you haven't replaced cap/rotor/plug wires as a part of your tune-up, that might help as well. The exact code(s) that the CEL is reporting would be very helpful, you might be able to find a shop that'll read it for free.
I have a maxima and am experiencing the same jerking got a new MAF spark plugs coil pack tubing transmission serviced and tune up nothing has stopped the jerking its less frequent butvstill occurring. Ive spent over $3000 fixing things now im broke with a car that stillnjerks. Dealer and local mechanic see no error codes or anything and the check engine light isnt coming on so the say come back if it appears. What should i do?
A new MAF won't fix a bad harness ground. Try regrounding the MAF.
I have an 05 Nissan Sentra. Mine does the jerk thing too at 40 MPH. The RPMs will be at normal speed then jerk down to 1 and a half. I have got a new gas cap, which made my check engine light go off after a "multi cylinder misfire" reading. My gas gauge never works until I am at a quarter of a tank. I notice that when the gas gauge doesn't work, the car jerks, but when it has a normal reading, the car doesn't jerk. Other than that the car runs fine.
hi, i dont no if any of you will be able to help me. i have a 1990 nissan AD wagon. my car runs well. no noticeable driving problems. my issue is cold start. when i start the car turns on and jerks like if its suffocating, and levels out on its own, morning time start is the most aggressive. i have an electronic throttle qg13 engine. i was told to try spraying a carburetor spray into the TB before starting, this in fact makes the car start very smooth. but its only for that one start, any other cold start for the say will result in a problem happening. i have no check engine light, no codes come up if i scan. any help?
I had a problem with my nissan sentra thumping, had advance auto parts run a car sensor for free on my car, said cylinder 4 was miss firing, replaced my spark plugs, car did a bit better but not a lot. So I then replaced the coil on cylinder 4 and it ran a lot better, it stopped thumping and gained a lot of it's horse power back. It is now idling out though when i start my car, once i get it running a bit it keeps running but getting it going sucks. I'm not sure what to do next.
2003 NIssan Sentra 99500 miles .Car jerks when at stop light. SES light is ON and SES code is P0302 Cylinder 2 misfire. Probable causes vaccum leak, air leak, mechanical fault. What is wrong? what should be replaced??
I have a 2003 Nissan Altima. I have had problems for about a year now costing me more than $2000. First my car's check engine light was flashing last June(we did not know we need to stop right away when that happens). We ended up cracking the manifold. Replaced 1 coil, spark plugs and replaced the manifold/catalytic converter(was 1 part). We also had to replace an oxygen sensor that burned out. Few months went by my alternator went out. Replaced it along with battery and had to take to mechanic again because the alternator was bad. 2 months ago car started jerking. The check engine light was flashing, then it stopped and went away, but the car continued to jerk especially at a stop light. Took it to mechanic and they replaced another coil. I went to pick it up and tried pulling out of the mechanics and the car started to jerk terribly. Left it another night and they replaced the remaining coils. Drove fine until this week. The car did the same where it started to jerk the check engine light started to flash. Turned off air-conditioner and the jerking lessened. Turned off car parked it and the check engine light went off and didn't turn back on but the car is jerking as soon as you put it in drive. When parked sounds like a "put, put" sound coming from the engine. What could be the problem? Tired of this car already!
P1111 code on my B15 which wont go away every time i clear the error using a machine, tried changing the cam sensor twice but not responding, jerks when in gear but calm on neutral, help?
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I previously had many misfires in my 01 Nissan sentra. My mechanic and a second one diagmosed that the computer ecmwas malfunctioning. I sent the evm away to be rebuilt as this at 295 was the cheapest option. Replaced ignition coil packs and spark plugs. Worked well for 2 almost three years and now the jerking has come back as has multiple misfires had it towed as it will not start now. Hoping it is just the battery however I have a feeling the computer is acting up again. Nissans are pure crap.
P0300 were my error codes recently
We have Nissan wingroad. yesterday i went hill road.that was small hill.vehicle can't go up.when i drive the vehicle ican't over take. please give me a advice to me.
Anyone who can give me any solid advice will be seriously appreciated. I have and Nissan Sentra SE-R 2004, and my engine light has been coming off an on over the past year, as code PO420, and brought it to the dealership to get diagnosed and they said it was the catalytic converter. He said not to worry, I could probably get away with driving the car another year at least without getting it fixed. So, recently, my car starts jerking, almost skipping slightly when I press on the gas at low speeds. The car isn't revving up from this,(it almost feels like there is something blocking the gas getting through and then it goes through suddenly after a second...that is my analysis since I don't know that much about cars). I thought it was my transmission at first, so I went to get the transmission fluids checked and they were fine. The mechanic didn't have time to look at it completely but asked if there were any engine lights on lately. I told him about the catalytic converter and he said that jerking might be caused by that. Another mechanic who hasn't seen the car yet said the catalytic converter wouldn't cause the car to do that. He thinks it sounds like the transmission and is the one who told me to get the fluids checked. Anyone else have similar problems that actually got this figured out? Please help! Thanks!! :)
I have a Nissan albums gxe 97, I drove the car to work n back home, next morning I turn it on, started right away went inside when I came out was off, started but it wont start, after a few trys I gave up to cold. After work check car again but nothing, popped the Hood, found out one spark plug was out, put it back but still won't start, gave it a jump but nothing, it cranks but nothing, I think I drove the car without that spark plug on the distribulator, please help.
my nissan sentra 08 is shaking when im stopped at red light , but when i drive it goes away somebody please help
"2008 Nissan Sentra- when Rpm hand go down to 0, the car sometimes go dead. It idles up and down while in park, seems to stall when going in reverse sometimes. I have slammed on my brakes at times, and it has gone dead. Has under 130000 miles on it. Never had a tune-up.
I have the answer, mine did the same for months on end, I replaced every filter, plug and wire and air flow things I could think of and in the end it was only the engine speed sensor that had to be replaced. Once that was done she drives like a dream again.....
I drive a 2005 jetta 4 - 1.6 ...had the same jerking while driving and cutting out at stop streets and just has no power with foot flat to the floor while pulling away....I have the answer, mine did the same for months on end, I replaced every filter, plug and wire and air flow things I could think of and in the end it was only the engine speed sensor that had to be replaced. Once that was done she drives like a dream again.....
saloution here !! hey i have a 05 nissan altima 2.5 and was having the check engine light problem ! throwing the sensor 1 bank 1 p1148 closed loop control function fault and p0037heater control and p1031 af sensor fault saying low voltage ! this was all after i replaced 02 sensor catalytic converter, coil packs n plugs ! my mechanic buddy did some research! come to find out there is a fuse for 02 sensor in the under hood box left side lookin at engine from front ! 15 amp mini fuse was burned ! look at side diagram to see 02 sensor fuse !! new one in cleared codes n runs like a raped ape and light is staying off! might help !!
I had my fuel injectors cleaned. Try replacing yours or having them cleaned. Never had the same problem again and its been years since I've dont that.
My 02 sentra is bucking jerking an still no answer to this problem
I just like all of you changed everything and only thing that made it stop was when I changed my engine speed sensor unit .. it never jerked again to this day!
Okay so I have a 2001 Nissan Sentra 1.8. Last week when I started the car it wouldn't move in drive, foot to the floor and it didn't budge. Turned off the car and started it again and it ran fine. Now two days ago when I turned the car on it started shaking and putting and just shut off on me. My battery was old so I replaced that and still the same thing. Checked the service engine code it was cylinder 2 misfire.. Replaced spark plugs and coils same problem. I really have no idea what to do at this point someone please help me
Ok so i have a 95 nissian sentra and i replaced the spark plugs wires valcover gasket rotter cap oil filter fuel filter and pump oil n everything and wen i put the car in drive and turn left it shuts off like can some one plz help me i need it fixed rlly bad n i also changed the knock sensor
replace the carburator with the toyota 4k carburator. This will remove the ecu and instrumentation from the equation. This is popular in the philippines, and I think is a good choice to counteract flakey instrumentation for an old car.
I have a 04 murano my truck jumps whenever in park or when I accelerate I was told that oil was leaking into the spark plugs that I had to replace the valve covers and gaskets I just replace the valve covers and gaskets in spark plugs and the truck is still doing the same thing what could be the problem??? Helppppp plzzz
I have a 97 Nissan Quest, and it was jerking on the highway. At low speeds it wasn't noticeable, but at high speed it felt like it's losing power randomly. I found that the sparkplug wire connection was corroded where it comes out of the coil. There's a lot of rain and flood here in Florida, and I think, it got wet. It was totally rusted inside. One of the symptoms was that the jerking would only start when the engine got hot. This makes sense because the conductivity of a wire decreases as it is heated.
Nissan sentra b14 super saloon. Ga15 engine. Radiator blew out, dry rotted. Saw a puff of steam then the car shut off engine check light came on. Restarted and drove half mile to home. Replaced the radiator the next day. Restarted the car, decided to drive to the auto dealer to reset the engine check when I noticed the bucking due to drop in rev on mashing the accelerator pedal in excess of 2,000 rpm. Neutralized and revved thinking possibly a blow off will door the trick, but the car kept dropping off the rev in split seconds as I held the pedal down. Then total trouble. The car shut off and would tumble but not restart. Got the electrician who found the ignition fuse burnt out. He replaced the fuse which also burnt out on restart. Traced the ground to the Mad sensor located on the throttle body. Disconnected, replaced fuse and car started, but kept bucking. Went to the dealer for diagnostic, Mass air flow sensor on the diagnostic. Replaced the throttle body as the maf is built in. Next, battery started overheating and lost reverse lights and the reverse beep. My voltmeter checked out on the alternator at 14.5 v, so did the electricians voltmeter. Replaced the battery today and monitoring. Feeling like I met the devil. Throttle issue resolved though. Goodluck sentrans
Nissan sentra b14 with Ga15 engine. Radiator blew out, dry rotted and cracked under pressure. Saw a puff of steam then the car shut off engine check light came on. Restarted and drove half mile to home. Replaced the radiator the next day. Restarted the car, decided to drive to the auto dealer to reset the engine check when I noticed the bucking due to throw off in acceleration on mashing the accelerator pedal in excess of 2,000 rpm. Car sounded like it was neutralizing and shifting back to drive after every split second. Neutralized and revved thinking possibly a blow off will door the trick, but the car kept throwing off the rev in split seconds as I held the pedal down. Then total trouble. The car shut off and would tumble but not restart. Got the electrician who found the ignition fuse burnt out. He replaced the fuse which also burnt out on restart. Traced the grounding to the MAF sensor located on the throttle body. Disconnected, replaced fuse and car started, but kept bucking. Went to the dealer for diagnostic, "Mass air flow sensor" on the diagnostic. Replaced the throttle body as the MAF is built in. Suggested that steam from the blown radiator got sucked into the intake and into the sensor somehow. Next, battery started overheating and lost reverse lights and the reverse beep. My voltmeter checked out on the alternator at 14.5 v, so did the electricians voltmeter. Replaced the battery today and monitoring. Feeling like I met the devil. Throttle issue resolved though. Goodluck sentrans
For all those who have experienced jerking/hard shifting while acceleration on your Nissan, it could also possibly be your throttle body system. With newer Nissans they have what they call a electronic throttle body. Overtime they start to build gunk inside and in between the throttle plate and the mechanism itself causing it to get stuck while you try to accelerate as the sensors are not sensing the movement of the throttle body in proper increments. I had similar symptoms on my 2002 Nissan Sentra SER. But luckily I found out what the real issue was than having to replace parts that weren't necessarily the problem. The dealership offers this type of service as they clean your fuel/induction system and throttle relearn. Hope this helps
I have a 2013 Nissan Sentra with 61000 miles on it..It is jumping and jerking like crazy..Has no power..The check engine light has never come on..Took it to Advance Auto and the guy didn't get any kind of reading on scan because the light wasn't on..Had a mechanic check my spark plugs and he said they are fine..I have no idea what the problem is but it's not drive able to get it to the Nissan service center..I'm thinking it's a transmission problem because the motor sounds fine when it's running..Any ideas would be appreciated..
It sounds like it's the camshaft positioning sensor bank 1
Anita_53 advance auto parts and other parts places don't have a proper scan tool they have code reader , there's a difference between them, and if there is no check engine light on ger your plenum or intake manifold gasket checked out may be your vehicle is loosing vaccum ,
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