my 94 3000gt wont start, the mfi relay just clicks when when i turn key to start. lights all work but just a click, wont crank.


Asked by Dec 06, 2014 at 10:04 PM about the 1994 Mitsubishi 3000GT 2 Dr SL Hatchback

Question type: Maintenance & Repair

it was running just great for months since i bought it 5 months ago. then every once in a while the car wouldnt restart when it was warmed up, drive to store no prob come back, click. But it would finaly crank if i waited 5 min ir so. Then over the last couple months it started happening more often and it would take longer and longer to crank it up. Sometimes i would hold it in start possition and nothing but after a few sec it would crank but not it wont start at all, Just click,click,click! I have nightmares about that freakin click. I  need my car back. Help! Its a 94 3000gt  sl manual,

10 Answers


Check you battery connections. These cars are known for issues with the frame and motor negative battery connections becoming lose or corroded. Also check the small wire going to your starter. Sometimes the female connection becomes loose or corroded causing the same issue. Remove wire squeeze female connector easily with pliers to tighten it the plug if back up. Also on the back of the switch in steering column there are two small screws that hold the harness to the switch. These become loose some times.

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Thanx for reply. I checked ignition switch/harness all looked good there and sure enough I followed my ground to the starter and there was a split in the ground with exposed wire. Replaced the ground and like clockwork for the first time in a month she fired right up. I was so happy except now I'm back to my original problem when its cold she cranks right up with no hesitation but as soon as the motor is warmed up she won't start. Cranks fine, plenty of juice, but won't start. Almost every time it will almost start for a second then stall then nothing. OK so after thinking about this for a while it is possible that I have a leaking injector but I just put brand new 550s in before it stopped cranking and the problem hasn't changed for better or worse. I started exploring to find at my surprise oil sprayed everywhere inside my timing cover. Yay. Not very thrilled noing exactly whar lies in my near future. I check the rear bank and sure enough the crank seals on both sides front and back are leaking oil. !*?:%!. So now that I'm about to start that project is there any advice or things I should no bfor tearing into the motor. Except how much a pita my timing belt is goin to b. And also do u think the oil on my timing belt is the cause of my no restart problem. Its possible maybe but I'm not convinced that when I get through with this that the nightmare is over yet. Thank u for ur thoughts and expertise on this. I love my car and my hood has been up for two months now and it is killing me!


Sounds like your cam shaft seals or crank shaft seals are bad causing the oil issue. Oil could be causing an issue with either you crank or cam positions sensors both are under the timing cover. And the cam sensor is on the back bank. When you have a no start issue again use timing light to check for spark. If no spark then look at testing your cam and crank sensors for signal. If you have spark then check for fuel pressure. Bad fuel pressure regulator could cause this to. How many miles since your last timing belt change? If unsure then I advise to start thinking about replacing it and your water pump. You can then replace the cam and crank seals. But don't get in a hurry because if you install your belt incorrectly you will bend valves and have to replace them too. Don't give up on her. These are great cars you just have to stay on top of the maintenance issues. If yours is equipped with an egr valve might want to check it. Cause if it is sticking open you will have a no start issue. Also your pcv valve sticking open can cause this along with idle air control valve dirty/faulty. Also what grade gas are you using. You must use the highest grade octane you can get for you engine to preform properly. 10:1 compression engine requires high octane fuel. Sorry for rambling on. Hope some of this helps.

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Thank u so much for the reply. So I no this is silly but I've been working on cars, ect. For most of my life and don't no everything to do with cars but I do no my way around one pretty well especially our motor as i have read the manual I downloaded off about half a dozen times since my car has been down. That being said I have never had to mess with a timing belt or a timing light. (Just lucky I guess lol) so I am a little intimidated by this b cause I no I only get one shot at soon this right. But I'm not one of the fortunate ones who can just dump $1000s of dollars in some dealers lap when i want to. So in confident I will concur the beast with ur help and my tedious nature. So my seals r on the way. BTW I read after I ordered them that I should only use mitsu. Seals and gadgets. Have I made a mistake bfor I even started. I have always got top shelf for my car but Christmas was a couple days ago and the difference is hundreds of dollars I just don't have. I also must find a timing light Witch I don't have and hopefully this Friday I'll be able to order the t.belt, water pump, tensioners, ? Anything else. And if it helps diagnosis the jack!*? Who I bought the car from has some hack job of a strait pipe for an exhaust and has some done away with the o2 sensor! ( fed spec). So I'm sure that that is helping my problem a bunch. Might b the root cause idk. I have already bought a brand new exhaust system for it, headers all the way to the ass and while I'm changing all the seals and blah blah blah I will probably install the exhaust myself. I went to a shop and they wanted $ 700 just to put It on! No thank u I already have over $1000 dollars in it as it is. Anyway thought I would let u all no as much as possible so u understand what I'm dealing with here. Oh yeah while I'm on a role there are several wires that r cut under my dash both driver and passenger that I have no clue what they go to but I have a couple good guesses. I have no a/c, I have pump but no lines. This is probably because the guy had this bfor me was a dumb ass kid who did a motor swap and something does not match up? My rad./ condensor fans both are wired directly up to my fuse box under dash. At least he was smart enough to put it to the wright fuse. Looks like the tiny red button on d/s of shifter is cut probably something to do with alarm idk. No cruise. He bypass the ecs or something I can't quite figure it out but he replace switch on the right side of rear w/ wiper with a blank switch but female end of harness if still back there. Isnt that a/ exhausts switch? For my SL? Hmm. Idk for sure as i don't usually look at turbo stuff I do pay attention. Any wayz. None of these things r to expensive just time consuming. Far as I can tell that is pretty much everything on my to do list. Thanx for all the help and the patiance 4 my novel!


Ugh. You got your hands full with the hack job the previous owner did.

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Best Answer Mark helpful

Yes u r correct but I have learned a lot about my car in the process. And the benefit of noing what has been done and done right. I got a good deal on the car so it is was worth puttin some money into it but if I new then what I know now I would have made him cut the price in half. So about the seals and gasgets do I need to return them when iv receive them or do think I'll b ok .


Are they name brand seals or real cheap on line ones? I bought a whole set of the cheap ones and all leaked or blew out. Priced about $80 for every seal in my engine and new head bolts. Then I went to auto zone and bought the better ones. $60 just for valve covers. $6 or so for cam and crank seals each. $55 for head gaskets with out head bolts. Plus all the other ones I needed. Over $200. But guess what. No leaks and know worries. All good. Been driving it every day since. Course as you can tell by gasket list I went a lot deeper into my engine than you will need to go. Personally I would return them and get just what you need from auto zone or parts house of your choice. That also goes for the timing belt, water pump and pulley set.

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Thanx I had a feeling u where goin to say that. That sucks to as they finally showed up today. I reckon I'll send them back, I don't want to do this again. Ill let u know when i get everything together. Let me know if u can't think of anything useful I should no b for I start. Thanx again for reply

1 people found this helpful.

Hey buddy so I've got my list together and advanced auto should have my stuff in tomorrow. I'm curious what brand u went with. I oem all the way but sometimes I wonder if it's not so bad putting on a/m parts. It becomes hard to decide when nobody agrees on anything! (3000gt forums) one person says an a/m part I'd the best thing they ever bought and the next one says it blew up there motor. Its hard to no who to trust. Our cars are very complex and not quite like any other motor/mfi system. I am asking in regards to an a/m racing high quality water pump/ timing belt kit that looks pretty bad ass and they garantee the t.belt for 100k miles. What do u think about it and I'm also thinking about goin fully synthetic since I'll b din an oil change anyway. I'm givin her the 120k mile service since I'm gonna b there anyway and I'm willing to bet my baby never got one 20k miles ago.( I've only put 3000 miles or so on the car in the 6 months I've owned it.) Let me no what u think buddy, T2U later.


Sorry I been out of town. In regards to going full synthetic. I personally don't use it in older cars. But heard that others have good luck with it. I try to always stick with OEM parts. I figure they have worked great for me up till now why change to aftermarket. But that being said I also not concerned with how it all looks cause I am covering it all back up with the guards. But if you planning on these item being seen the aftermarket items do give you a cool clean look. And they should perform just as good as oem.

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