is it common for the eclipse to have a knocking noise in the motor and how do u fix it

5

Asked by Jun 11, 2008 at 12:02 PM about the 1997 Mitsubishi Eclipse GS

Question type: Maintenance & Repair

40 Answers

7,555

No a knocking noise is never common in the motor, it's usually a sign of very bad things... I haven't dealt with an eclipse motor yet, so hopefully someone with more knowledge on the subject will post with a more specific answer. Most common knock I can think of is a rod knock which can be cause by one of three things... 1- rod bearings are worn out 2- Bolts are coming loose at the rod journal 3- Damage to the rod Other things it could be are problems with a valve train, the belt systems ect... Anything off balance and badly held in place can knock potentially it's hard to tell what it is without hearing it in person. Checking the rod problems though is fairly easy on 'most' cars(I can't insure this is how you do it on yours. Basic steps are as follows. First lift the car, If you have manual put it in 5th and leave the drive wheels free to turn. 1-Drain oil 2- Remove oil pan 3- Get access to bottom of of the crankshaft(dunno what this involves in your car some it's right there in front of you others you gotta move oil pickups, others still there is a lower block assembly that needs removeal which is usually a pain) 4- Inspect the where the rods connect to the crankshaft. You shouldn't be able to move them up and down in relation to the crank. If you can that's likely the source of the knock. If they are moving I recommend replace all the bearings while your there(usually not that expensive) and make sure you torque the bolts down properly. A repair manual will have the details which you should pick up before doing this to make sure it's possible on this car. Hope that helps Remember before replacing the oil pan to clean the inside of varnish and the mating surfaces of all debris. If it uses a gasket eliminator, such as ATV black, make sure you let it cure a bit(5-10mins or until tacky) before bolting it on. This prevents leaks and keeps the RTV from being dissolved in the oil which can lead to problems down the road. As I said I haven't done this on your car before so ask on an eclipse club forum if no one else here answers the question for you. Also remember to fill the oil before starting after the procedure. :-D

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7,555

Also I forgot to mention avoid driving it until you know what wrong... knocking usually leads to breaking... If it's an engine internal you could have a grenade in front of you.

1 out of 1 people think this is helpful.
55

my friends 98 eclipse had a knocking noise then that led to him throwing a rod through his block but he had the turbo 4g63 motor when have a softer block but in your motor im not to sure so you just do what the other guy said

25

do you know for sure its the motor? if you have a stick try pushing in the clutch and listen for that same knocking sound, if you cant hear it afterwards then its your clutch, i just dropped a act stage two 6 puck in my 01 and it just started knocking most likely uneven wear on the clutch... or it what the othe guy said and is a rod if so STOP DRIVING IT until you get it fixed, i know way to many people that have said f it and and push it... or you dont have enough oil in it, or the fuel injector are going bad but thats more of a ticking sound either way find out whats wrong with it... sorry to give ya bad news but try to have a nice day

45

If it has an early 4g63 engine then it could be suffering from excess lateral movement of the crankshaft (crankwalk). Ive thrown a rod twice with the same problem on my Evo IV

35

i had a 95 GS. i had to sell it because it had a knoicking noise. i threw a rod. the stupid 420A motor sucks.

Mitsubishi-enought said.

2 out of 2 people think this is helpful.
65

i got a 420A eclipse and if you're running the same thing as me, the engine's solid. (Chrysler designed/built engine by the way) only major problem is crankwalking. i havent had any trouble with knocking noises yet so i havent looked into the problem much

345

Typically the 420a and the 4g63 have what most people refer to as "ticking" which is actually the lifters. Very normal for these vehicles, but if you are saying it sounds like a knock. Typical thing is the rod bearings. When driving the knocking should increase with rpm. Also its funny to hear some people knock on mitsubishi, etc. When the 4g63 is actually voted the strongest and most powerful four cylinder motor. The motor in this persons car is the 420a and was designed by the chrysler corporation. It was commonly used in the dodge neon, plymouth neon. Don't talk about what you dont know.

10 out of 10 people think this is helpful.
35

N Most DSM motors the lifters r wat u hear "knockin" but urs bein a 97 motor u have a chrys. motor n it so im not really sure...could b a rod

2,995

that isnt a chrysler motor by the way chrysler used mitsubishi motors not the other way around

175

420A= Chrysler 4G63= Mitsubishi Youre an idiot. Pidgey. GTFO....

4 out of 4 people think this is helpful.
25

Well said...

1 out of 1 people think this is helpful.
65

Mike, As an ex-auto repair shop employee and a proud owner of a 96 Eclipse GSX 463 2.0l turgo AWD I must tell you that the 420A engine is made by mitsubishi. In 98 they produced another version of the 420A where the air box is in the right hand side as you face engine ( American built ). That will make you think that. You have to understand what the diamond star motor era was all about with jeep eagle, plymouth and mitsubishi. They all worked together and made the same car sharing parts but the body is what tells them apart. The issue at hand right now sounds like possible crank walk and that is important to check especially his is the revised version of the original 2nd gen style for his year car ( side moldings under the doors protrude less on 97 and up and are glued on as opposed to 95 and 96 which is bolt on).

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345

Im sorry dude, but the 420a is a chrysler motor. It was used in all non turbo eclipses and talons from 95-99. The only non turbo 95-99 cars that used the 4g63 were sold in Europe.

55

the best 4g63 motors are in the 90-94 eclipse's but only the gst and gsx they use a 6 bolt motor which has a stronger block the the 7 bolt motors then the 95 to 99 4g63. the 95 to 99 4g63 have a softer block then the 1st gen motors thats why them motors have the crank walk issue. and thats the reason why people do the 6bolt swaps on the 95+ gst and gsx.

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25

This guy knows his stuff becasue he helped put 2 7 bolt motors in my gsx and finally did the 6 bolt swap ion third motor

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65

I read your responce and yes you are correct and is the reason why I pulled my old motor from a 1st gen vehicle. The 95 and up issue can be rectified by making the necessary adjustments. Also, if you want just the block that can be done as well. I would even go as far as pulling a 4G63C engine from japan which happens to be a cyclone motor which only those individuals who know what that is think twice running against it if it was built up properly.

65

The chrysler 420A topic is going to be a real long battle even though we all share the same love for DSM. You just got my interest with the europe subject. Go into that a little deeper and explain this to me because I would like to know this one.

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345

If you go on dsmtuners.com and search european 4g63 some combination like that. You will find a few topics. Pretty interesting to see, blew my mind away when I found out about it years ago.

345

90-92.5 had 6 bolt motors. 92.5-94 had another version of the 7 bolt. 95-99 had 7 bolts as well. 95-96 had the cam angle sensor on the timing side. While the 97-99 had the cam angle sensor on the camshaft. The 6 bolt motors had thicker rods. While the 7 bolt motors had higher compression pistons 8.5:1 Which is why many people will swap 6 bolts and use the big rods with the 2g pistons. The 7 bolt blocks were not weaker, that wasnt the issue for crankwalk. Crankwalk was beleived to be caused by incorrectly machine crankshafts. In all honesty there are quite a few theories of which the best I read was I believe from Machv.com but I couldn't find it for you. Sorry it has been quite a few years.

65

The information you provide is correct and alot of NYC racers will pull that here if they can find the 1st gen motor. The area for a 1st gen motor has been dry and to find a GSX is even harder now which is why I don't feel like giving mine up even if I just park it up and do nothing with it. I would like to learn more o the euro 4G63 motor and will start looking that up. i even thought of pulling an idea but don't know if it was ever tried. Take the drive train and mod it turning the GSX into rear wheel drive. What do you think?

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5

the rear wheel thing has been done, alot actually, mostly to first gens, and mostly only by people with very deep pockets or serious mental issues lol. i believe buschur racing (sp?) also sells a rwd kit to relocate the alternator and use a gm tranny. most of the swaps ive heard of dont use the gsx drivetrain at all (just the motor). some have used rx7 trannies and some have used shep trannies. i cant type, its too late at night sorry lol

30

your a fuckin dumb ass.89-94 used 1.8 pos and a 6 bolt 4g63 tubo and na.95 thru97 used the 420a and 4g63 7 bolt...98 thur 99 used 420a dohc ..4g63 revised 7 bolt that didnt crank walk and a 2.4 sohc mostly in the 99s and up.the...1.8 is mitsu. 4g63 is mitsu.420a sohc 420a dohc and the 2.4sohc all are chrysler.any body who says diff should not own a dsm or even a fuckin neon.

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30

ITS BEEN DONE BEFORE...ITS DONE BE USING THE STARION TRANS OR THE TRANS FROM A MIGHTY MAX TRUCK.WE HAVE AT LEAST SIX HERE INCLUDING MINE IN TAMPA..AND IT TURNS OUT UNLESS UR PLANING ON USING IT TO DRIFT THE CAR IS USELESS..DOESNT LIKE TO HOOK UP.UNLESS U PUT A SHIT TON OF MONEY IN SUSPENTION..WE ALL LEARN AT AND EARLY AGE THAT FWD SUCKS (remember the big wheel)RWD IS FUN BUT GAY IF YA WANT TO LEAVE IN A HURRY.AWD IS SO MUCH BETTER IN EVEY ASPECT.ITS EVEN BETTER TO DRIFT WITH IF U CAN MAKE THE POWER..AS PROVEN BY KEN BLOCK, THE DRIFT GOD,YOU SHOULD COME OVER HERE WITH COOL PEOPLE AND QUIT TALKIN TO THAT RETARD ...

30

THE 4G63 NA WAS NOT ONLY IN EUROPE BUDDY. 4G63 NA IN THE USA WHERE MOUNTED IN EARLY HUNDAI ELANTRA'S BET YA DIDNT KNOW THAT DID YA ..OH YES I SAID IT HUNDAI WORKED WITH MITSUBISHI !!GOT A BUDDY IN MY GROUP THAT RUNS A 4G63 NA OUT OF AN ELANTRA WITH A FEW THINGS TWEAKED AND THE CARS IS FAST FOR AN NA..PULLS BUS LINKS ON STOCK 4G63T'S..SEEN IT HURT ALOT OF RICERS FEELINGS..

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30

i have a 94 talon 1.8 and it ticks sometimes on colds starts been doing that for 3yrs what could the problem be?

a crappy fram oil filter, a cracked spark plug.... exhaust manifold leak....many things can create a ticking noise.

195

no not coomon mot good either check and see if it is with engine rpm, if its a rod u can pull the spark plug wire off each cylinder, the noise will go away when u hit that cylinder, see if u can hear about were it is internally or like the guy said manifold leak.

40

Knocking noises could come from different sources, but if u know for sure its coming from inside the engine. then ur timing is off and the valves and or piston head is hitting which could result in engine failure. either mad scientist and rip apart the head and block to find the problem, replace and rebuild. or buy a new engine

40

the 4g63 engine timing needs to be precise, and the auto tensioner rod needs to be reset then released and then with a special tool u screw against the tensioner arm. the autotensioner rod and tensioner arm needs to have a precise gap of between 5/32 and 3/16 of an inch or 3.8 to 4.5 mm. if it is not between those measurements u need to repeat the process. otherwise you auto tensioner WILL leaks and when that happens the tensioner against the timing belt looses tension and the belt will not rotate correctly either breaking off completey(worst) or just jumped. Either way u will need to correctly time all the sprockets and camshafts again. a very difficult engine but worth it

10

What should I do when I try to start my engine( 2.0 non turbo) and while trying to turn over its knocking and won't start??

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5,625

mark start your own thread

5

I have a 99 eclipse gs 420a and it keeps burning out all 4 plugs then it spits and when I push the gas it bogs down until I let off any ideas off what this could be???

5,625

SkillerJoshua start your own thread bro

what kind of tensioner would my 95 eclipse non turbo use? mechanical or hydraulic?

I know that there is water in the oil when the head gasket is blown. But, what does it mean when there is oil in the water?

I think the best combo is 89-94 laser head and swap out the block with the 4g64 bottom end and throw the set-up into a 1st gen tsi the 4g64 is a Mitsubishi engine that was used in a mighty-max I think its a stroker engine they put into the mighty-max witch is a truck by the way. if you can get it properly converted it will do low elevens in the 1/4 mile. you just have to put a stronger bov and 550 injectors boost to 21psi.it will hold strong

idk anyone who has ever actually done it ive just seen videos and pictures of a friends

10

I have never seen such a collection of both good answers, good intentioned wrong answers, and just straight up BS on a subject as seemingly forward and easy to grasp as DSM's. I will hopefully clear up some of the nonsense posted on here about what is and isn't. 1G (Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, Mitsubishi Eclipse 1st Generation, with distinction made between 1990-1991 cars and 1992-1994 cars, labeled as 1GA and 1GB respectively.) Here are the 1G Trim levels and the years of availability courtesy of wikipedia.org. base - 1990-1992 ESi FWD Turbo - 1990-1994 TSi AWD Turbo - 1990-1994 DL - 1993-1994 ES - 1993-1994 1990-1994 DSMs had 3 engine options, which werepredetermined according to what trim level you chose. You could get a 1.8L NT, 2.0NT, or the 2.0T. Cars like the 'base model' Talon or Talon ES came with the 2.0L 4G63 non turbo 6 bolt. (Yes, in the United States.) The Eagle Talon DL brought with it the 1.8L non turbo (designated 4G37). The Eagle Talon ESI (FWD) and Eagle Talon TSI AWD both featured the 2.0L Turbocharged 4G63. A little after the middle of the 1992 model year, depending on who you ask, marked the arrival of the 7bolt 4G63 Turbo which was borrowed directly from the then current Lancer Evolution. Please note that this Early 7 bolt did NOT suffer from the notorious crankwalk issues these cars have become infamous for. The early 7 bolt became standard until 1994. It was equipped with lighter rods for a more balanced rotating assembly. The Lancer Evolution continued to use this 7 bolt design for years with little issue. 2G (Plymouth drops the laser. Only the Eagle Talon and Mitsubishi Eclipse remain.) This generation is 1995-1998. With the introduction of the 2G, two engine options are dropped, and one is added. Gone are the 1.8L 4G37 and the 2.0L 4G63 non turbo. The new Chrysler designed 2.0L NT (dubbed the 420A) takes it's place in the base model cars such as the Eclipse RS. The 2.0L 4G63 remains at the upper trim levels. At the same time, the 7 Bolt 4G63 receives modification in the form of a different Turbocharger(Garrett T25), different intake and exhaust manifolds, and higher compression pistons (8.5:1 vs 7.8:1). This version of the 7 Bolt 4G63 is the one that began to suffer from crank walk issues. To that end, there are many theories about what caused these issues, and not many real answers. As to what someone else said in the comments, the block was not softer in the 7 bolt than the 6 bolt and this was most definitely NOT the cause of crank walk. Hope this clears up some of what was posted here so that people that visit looking for correct information can find it.

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