My rear converter is clogged and appears to have happened from the after market part that was replaced for front converter. Dealership is saying I need to replace front converter along with the clogged rear. How come I can't just replace the rear only?
Dealership says the after market catalytic converter appears to be crumbling and is why
the rear converter is now clogged.
Because what they are saying is that the reason your rear is clogged is because of the after market front. If you just replace the rear, it will burn up again because of the after market front. That's why you must replace both. Try Rock Auto. Best prices for converters....
Thanks so much for your needed and valued response. Can I ask one more question? What makes the after market part clog up the rear?
Choose an Eastern Converter. I've bought two, for two different vehicles, and had no issues. The exhaust system flows from the engine back. So any "garbage" (unburned fuel, pieces of the front converter, oil, coolant) coming from the engine or parts ahead of the catalytic converters will ruin them as they flow down and out the tailpipe. Kinda like how a river flows into the ocean. Any garbage put in the river eventually winds up in the ocean. HTH. -Jim
Thanks.... The dealership is replacing converter with original converter made for the truck. Very expensive but I am paying for a piece of mind and work that is warranted.
yeh well id advise going to some place like midas or some other exhaust place over the dealer,, probably be a 3rd of the price and just as good and still warrantied
I have to agree with Daniel on this one. New car dealerships don't keep parts in stock for 10 year old vehicles. The converters will probably come from a local auto parts store and you'll be charged list price for them. Be sure to ask about the warranty on these converters. Most come with a 5 year/50,000 mile warranty. On the plus side of this, if you have an engine problem that is killing these converters, which may well be the case here, the dealer will have to replace them again for free. They are expected to diagnose the problem correctly. HTH. -Jim
Thanks you two. The other mechanic at a non-dealership repair shop has really scared me with trying other places. My truck has always ranned smoothly until I allowed this mechanic to put an aftermarket converter on the front which has now messed up my back converter. The mechanic mentioned how I can use a muffler shop but the truck may have a loud sound. I want it to run smoothly the way it has when serviced by the dealer. I tried saving money once and that's why I am in this current predicament. So hard to get honest and quality service.
well that mechanic sounds like a complete tool,, I would just find a Midas or something like that and have them replace them with OEM parts and it will sound just like it did when it was new, the only reason it would be louder would be if they did something to make it sound loud, but I wouldn't go to the dealer it will be much cheaper at a regular exhaust shop,, also I would ask for the cat convertor/s back so that you can drop it off at the salvage yard and get some money for them,,, should be between 50 - 150 bucks depending on the size etc
Thanks Daniel. My car is already being worked on at the dealership and I paid to have it towed twice already. The dealership is working with me on giving me a discounted price. We' ll see.....
You're welcome, Cheryl. I know exactly where you're coming from. Except for tires and exhaust I always take my vehicles back to the dealer for service and repairs. My '93 Chevy Caprice, which I bought new always got dealer servicing from the time I bought it (October 1993) until I sold it (June 2012). So did my '70 Pontiac Catalina. I owned that car from 1996 until 2012. Always took it to the local Chevy Dealer. They got a kick out of that car. There was an older mechanic there who loved working on it. -Jim
Hi Jim Dealership is waiting on parts, is to late to cancel the work and just pay them for towing and inspection? So you saying the Cstalytic. Converter could be replaced somewhere like Midas? The dealership is offering g only a 12 month warranty. and charging around a 1000 to repair rear converter & 1700 for front. I need help just don't want to get screwed again. I already paid 700 for the first replaced after market converter from a different repair shop which the dealer says clogged up the rear. I will ask what kind of catalytic converter were they planning to put on my SUV.
Hi Cheryl, there's nothing wrong with having this done by the dealer. Since an independent shop messed it up the first time I understand why you'd be leery of going to another. But yes, both Midas and Minekie are reputable repair facilities. Back in December I took my 2000 Grand Prix GT to the local Minekie to have the converter replaced. The check engine light was on and I'd pulled the trouble code. I bought a universal Eastern converter from rockauto.com (around $140.00) and had Minekie install it (around $240.00). That includes replacing the resonator, which was coming apart at the seam, as well. I then took the old converter to the scrap yard and got $35.00 for it. The car is no louder than it was before. The labor from Minekie is warranted for 1 year and the converter is warranted for 5 years or 50,000 miles by Eastern Converter. By doing it this way it was cheaper, but if the new converter fails, I'm the one who has to make the warranty claim, personally, with Eastern. I'm assuming there's nothing wrong with the engine on this car that could have killed the old converter. Since the car runs fine. The car is 14 years old and has 154,000 miles on it. So I chalked it up to normal wear out. But if I find out later, by another converter failure, that something is going on with the engine (coolant leak, etc.) I'm out that money and will have to pay for the repair all over again. You don't have that concern. By taking it to the dealer they've diagnosed all that for you and you should be good to go. One thing I'd ask about is the warranty on the converter itself though. I'd think it'd be longer than 1 year. HTH. -Jim
It was suggested that also ask the dealer am I getting an OEM part too.
I would. You're paying top dollar for a top notch repair. It is possible that the aftermarket converter that caused this mess was defective from the manufacturer. I work at NAPA and it does happen. The other possibility is that once installed the aftermarket converter wasn't properly warmed up before your SUV was given back to you. For that converter to clog up the second converter the "brick" or catalyst inside had to fall apart. Not warming up a new converter can do that. Another advantage of going to the dealer is the mechanic will know that. At an independent shop, who knows? I watched when they pulled my Grand Prix out of the shop after the repair. The mechanic warmed up my new converter correctly. If he hadn't I would have told them about it. HTH. -Jim
js08016 what are you talking about warming up the new catalytic convertor?? you bolt it on and your done ,, theres no pre break in or whatever your trying to say, unless I don't understand what your trying to say, please enlighten me
js08016 what are you talking about warming up the new catalytic convertor?? you bolt it on and your done ,, there's no pre break in or whatever your trying to say, unless I don't understand what your trying to say, please enlighten me
heres the deal Midas and Minekie do this every day of the week forever now,, they know what they are doing its not rocket science,, you go to the dealer and they will totally rape you on the price,, get it done for a 5th of the price somewhere else, I doubt it was the mechanics fault that this happened in the first place, cant see what he could of done to make this fail other than possibly choosing the wrong after market pre-cat,, either way take it to Midas or Minekie and you'll be fine,, after you have that done get your car checked to make sure its not running lean or rich that will kill a catalytic convertor,, never heard of a coolant leak doing this, unless you mean a bad head gasket, that can, the price the dealer is wanting is insane, you could by a whole new used car for that price, one other thing your most likely going to get more than a 12month warranty on the work no matter where you that's just how that is
Hi Daniel, a new converter must be warmed up by running the engine at idle for a few minutes, then at 2000 RPMs for about 5 minutes more before the vehicle is driven. This allows the "brick" inside to melt into the casing of the converter properly and remain secure throughout the life of the converter. If this procedure is not followed the new converter will be damaged and fail prematurely. An engine that leaks coolant internally, as you said, from a bad head gasket, or possibly a bad intake manifold gasket, will cause converter failure. So will an engine that is allowed to misfire or an engine that burns oil. Check out Eastern Converter's website. They have videos detailing everything I've just explained. HTH. -Jim
I cant find any site called that
Google "eastern catalytic converter". -Jim
yeh I found it finally a direct link would of be nice by anyway, I didn't see anything on the video about some elaborate break in like you said with the hold at 2k RPMs for 5 minutes,, but yes it says to get car to operating temp for awhile, guess I didn't know that, thanks, wither way im sure that one of the 2 shops Minekie or Midas would know and do this seeing as they specialize in exhaust
Glad you found it, Daniel. I agree, shops specializing in exhaust repairs would most likely know about the break in procedure. Sorry I couldn't provide a direct link. Some of us aren't as computer savvy as others. -Jim
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