Lost Power while accelerating onto highway

Asked by Jan 10, 2011 at 03:44 PM about the 2001 Mazda MPV ES

Question type: Maintenance & Repair

MPV lost power and nearly quit while entering highway. I had drove some 5 miles before problem occured. No engine light present. Used CODE scanner, no codes retreived (pass). Possible Fuel filter or pump? Has any one had a similar problem?
Drove MPV to work at reduced power (speed). MPV would not start and idle after I tried to go home from work. Mpv starts (now) ok and I can drive, but at low power?

33 Answers


i have the same problem on my 2000 mpv i changed the fuel pump and it worked for another 2 weeks but now i still have the same problem when i try to press the gas pedal after running for a few minutes it has no power and wants to die so i have no clue on what to do.

106 people found this helpful.

My 2001 MPV did the same thing awhile ago, I took it to the shop and they changed the Front catalytic converter. It drove perfect for 3 months. Now its doing it again. These MPV'S have 3 catalytic converters so now I have to change the second one. I'm just hoping it's the cheaper one. Good luck!

20 people found this helpful.

try your throttle position sensor

20 people found this helpful.

it is probably the EGR. symptoms tell us this.

15 people found this helpful.

I'm having the same problem with my 2003 MPV. When I accelerate quickly ( merging onto the freeway). It stalls. Did you guys find out what the problem was? Do you still own your van? Maybe it's time for a new car. I can't stall on the freeway I have kids :(

34 people found this helpful.

It ended up being the computer. It was a pricey fix $3500. Also it had something to do with the carborator (I think that's the right part) and the exhaust.

3 people found this helpful.

@Kindred...we haven't had carburetors for more than 25 years...oooo

2 people found this helpful.

every time I've replaced a computer...it was of no use...did not work, because the problem was at the Grounding...the chassis ground to the battery is CRITICAL...300 amp connection must be present to the chassis ground and to the motor block as well...perhaps could have saved you the money....bit of a snow job going on here~

11 people found this helpful.

did you get points for a 3 month old question judge... lol im watching and learning.... cant wait!!!!

2 people found this helpful.

No....as a matter of fact have learned about various gremlins over the last year...in fact "Techron" is Benzene or the ilk and deteriorates any organic compounds such as the diaphragm of the fuel pressure regulator....cleans your engine all right~...perhaps you could put a sucking tool on it to see if the diaphragm has action or just leaks into the intake vacuum~

4 people found this helpful.

...okay if you don't want to dirty yourself for 35 dollars you can buy a suction tool~ http://www.amazon.com/Unknown-25136-OEM-Vacuum- Pump/dp/B000CMDPBM/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1389406966&sr=8- 6&keywords=automotive+tester+suction+tool

2 people found this helpful.

http://www.cargurus.com/Cars/Discussion-c15925_ds550111 ____for your wise guy self~

2 people found this helpful.

cmon judge cats out the bag.... your a points pusher! just answer this 1 question... How many user names do you have for this web site? honor your names judge...lol

...what names?...switched to operator_13 for at time out of respect for Tom Deyman....who always answers with the correct answer....and takes NO chances....aside from bob_nueske...who I changed FROM out of respect for his delicious bacon to judge_roy (as Walter Brennan's famous portrayal from this 1944 movie) because this is NOT a real dude who I can offend by using his name~....so not quite sure what you're insinuating....if you know from cars and machines...you rock...please show some courage and give it a whack to see if you've got what it takes to be a TRUE car Guru....c'mon now...EVERY question....show some courage~!

3 people found this helpful.

You'll have to spend A LOT of time researching the question...you've got to be a tech wiz too (in case you missed that meeting)~

1 people found this helpful.

okay mister smartguy you've again been reported as "attacks an individual"...okay...this is creepy~ why the attacks? always the best answer this greasemonkey can keep up with....also you've been reported to the main office for one who isn't offering "useful" things...at all...frankly am tired of your self-righteous nonsense and will not submit to intimidation...like my good associate and top guru DavidH25 who was and still is my mentor through this~ you have to be willing to learn here because there is always another solution to any problem~ get with the program, jack----you need a sense of humor to survive....perhaps there are classes at the community college for that~

1 people found this helpful.

...and why the swearing? it's like stompin' your muddy shoes and yellin' in the temple here....no delicacy.....no gentlemen behavior....no politeness...no humorous way of revealing your intentions....no reason that you need to share your "knowledge" with us...good day sir~

1 people found this helpful.

Also when ever you wanna compare credentials I am ready... I have proof of my education do you???

1 people found this helpful.

so as far as this goes, I've heard every part replaced but still no solution. Clean your throttle body well, replace the iac valve, test and od replace egr. Install new ngk plugs, clean maf and map sensors. all of this can be done at home for 150.00 after that, see how she runs for the minimal investment put in. it works.

1 people found this helpful.

now could someone please follow up as to that and let me know if there is anything else I could do affordably and effective overall.

2 people found this helpful.

My mpv doesn't idle high in park but on highway have to go 30 mph engine light is on and speedometer jumps around and rpms get really high

4 people found this helpful.

I bought a used 2002 Mazda MPV a few weeks ago. When I test drove it, it ran fine. I told the dealer I wanted it. I arranged to pick it up, but was told they found something under the hood needed to be replaced, which took another day. I picked it up the next day and it jerks when it idles and driving down the road and won't go and dies when I try to climb hills. None of this happened when I was test driving it. It seems very strange that this sound happen. Could they have done something to it, making it do this? It came from a reputable dealer.

26 people found this helpful.

@stranded2...I'd disassemble and clean the EGR with some brake cleaner~

5 people found this helpful.

i too have the same problem, this van starts and idles perfectly. no codes. can drive at greatly reduced speed and power. at initial foot on the gas it works great til i get about 100 feet down the road and it starts dieing. IAC valve was not my problem, coils are good, fuel pressure over 50 psi, timing checks out too. Any help from anyone would be great.

45 people found this helpful.

the fuel pressure regulator is a possibility as well~ https://www.google.com/#q=2001+Mazda+MPV+fuel+pressure+regulator&tb m=shop

16 people found this helpful.

Judge Roy!! Where the heck have you been, Master Guru?? We need ya back full time! We'll have a welcome back party and celebrate with fine wine, enchiladas, salsa and chips in your honor!


2001 MPV and cranks and runs but only 10mph and then stalls out. Heard maybe it could be the mass air flow sensor? Any suggestions?

1 people found this helpful.

Obviously none of you know the answer, so it's probably best to just shut up lol. So you've basically told every one "try this" to what, $300+ in parts. I sure would like to see your credentials because they are obviously not valid. I know more that you do, and all I did was attend a summer program at the vo-tech. It has nothing to do with a fuel line or pump, If it did, it would code. Shm I am troubleshooting this problem today on a Mazda 2003 mpv lx. I will let you know what the real issue is once I am done.

6 people found this helpful.

Thanks Lexi, please let us know! I've not got the same issue. Someone told me the exhaust manifold with cat needed replaced so I did, 900 dollars... Now they say barometric pressure sensor... Possibly another 200... They say that will fix it, kinda scared to try it...


Ok so ours is up and running fine now. There's a hose in the back of the engine that needs to be tightened. I added a hose clamp, and a little bit of transmission fluid, and now its running like a champ. This fixed the multiple issues we were having such as car starting only 300rpms, jumping and then trying to stall, the breaks which were hard to push and went all the way down to stop. I will be bleeding the breaks as a precaution but the "hose" won't blow a code. They actually had many issues with them and eventually had to make a new type because the ones originally made were trash and kept having the same issue yearly. After little research I have found FORD makes the newer hose which lasts. So IF this happens again I will get this part. Its not the IAC as this would have blown a code and since I have a hum device it tells me exactly what to replace if a code is triggered. Our check engine light is no longer on. The battery is fine, all the fluids are fine and the rest of the hoses too. I actually found out the issue by spraying starter fluid in the back of the engine, while it was on, and it revved which concluded my check as positive for a leak, then I saw the hose wasn't properly secured, ran to ace hardware and for $2 had the hose clamp needed to fix it. That beats buying all these other parts when they do not need to be replaced. I will let you know if I have any other issues, but as of yet were all good to go.

1 people found this helpful.

if you have any questions or would like to let me know more information for me to help you, please feel free to email me untitledmiss@yahoo.com

1 people found this helpful.

Lexi has this hose clamping fixed your issue? Mine is a mystery and would like something else solid to try


2001 Mazda Tribute, while I was driving on the highway the truck stop pulling. No light came on or nothing, kept mashing the gas but the truck wasn't getting any power. Help

1 people found this helpful.

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